Norway - Sweden

In August 2021, I cycled from Ålesund to Stockholm, passing by Oslo, cycling a total of 7 days. This was my third bikepacking trip ever, so many firsts for this trip... probably too many.

Let's start with getting to Ålesund. From Italy, and probably from most of Europe, there is no direct flight to that city, so I had a layover in Oslo. Here came the first problem of the trip: for some reason, maybe because of the disservices that the airports had during Covid, the bike luggage had to be picked up after landing in Oslo and then checked in again. Add this to 1-hour delay, and this is the perfect receipt to lose the connection.  This occasion was also when I found out that bike boxes, and large luggages, had to be retrieved from some corner of the room of the airport where the belt conveyors were.  

Despite the beginning, I landed at the Ålesund airport at dusk. The airport is located on an island in the fjords, so the landing looked very beautiful (see cover). I was quite concerned about getting back to the city with public transportation because I arrived pretty late and I wasn't sure how long the buses would run. I was quite nervous and I wanted to rush out of the airport, but I noticed everyone around me was calm; so I wondered if I was the only one there needing to take the bus. Shortly after I found out that mine was the last flight of the day and I remember seeing a person closing the gate of the airport behind us, after all the people had exited the airport. I never saw an airport closing before. 

I probably do not need to say it, however, Scandinavians are very respectful of cyclists and the roads are buttery smooth. Not much to add. It was one of the first times I cycled in civilized countries like these, and I remember the feeling of guilt I felt when a line of cars was forming behind me because there was not enough space to overtake safely; so much so that sometimes I stopped on the side of the road to let the cars pass. I wonder if it was a fair act of kindness or the result of growing up in one of the most disrespectful countries for cyclists, i.e., Italy. 

Now let's get to another mistake of the trip. In August 2021 I found out that August in Scandinavia is not summer anymore, or at least not the summer I expected. Especially at the beginning of the trip in the fjords, cycling during the day was ok(ish), sometimes it was chilly but easy to handle with a wind jacket. The nights were bloody cold though, I remember it was almost 10° and I went to sleep in the sleeping bag because it was the only way not to be cold. When I reached south, Oslo then Stockholm, the temperature got warmer. 

On this trip, I always slept in campsites, except for the last couple of days in Stockholm, where I slept in a hostel. As far as I remember, it was both because of the price, in fact, accommodations in Norway can be very expensive, and because there were simply few choices along the way; instead, there were countless campsites.

Day 1 / Ålesund - Åndalsnes (109 km)

The first day started great, the south-west coast of Norway is simply amazing. Buttery smooth roads, beautiful scenery and warm summer weather are the perfect ingredients for riding in Norway. Everything was set for a perfect day, but a surprise was waiting in the last 10 km, one that would teach me lessons. The first lesson is that Norwegians love tunnels, the second is that when bikepacking in mountain regions you should always check the road thoroughly. I think that in 2022 or 2023 Komoot added the street view feature, that would have been useful. Anyway, after 100 amazing km, 10 km of dark tunnel were separating me from the camping, with no way of getting around it. My bike lights were not even so good. It was very frightening, but I made it through. The lesson is: alway check the road, and if you see a straight road in a map cutting through a mountain... well, that is most likely a tunnel.

Day 2 / Åndalsnes - Geiranger (83km)

I hardly remember a ride better that this one in my life. From Åndalsnes you climb up to Trollstigen pass, then long amazing downhill to a boat to cross the fjord. Finally, a shorter climb to reach Geiranger, a small village at the head of the Geirangerfjord. Pictures speak for themselves.

Day 3 / Geiranger - Vågåmo (126 km)

From Geiranger I climbed the mountain pass that was right behind the village, then it was a long steady descend along a beautiful valley for almost 100 km. Another beautiful ride.

Day 4 / Vågåmo - Moelv (177 km)

Big day on the bike, rolling towards Oslo. 

Day 5 / Moelv - Oslo (154 km)

Another rolling day, reaching Oslo. 

Day 6 / Oslo - Arvika (152 km)

Forest. 152 km of forest and loneliness.

Day 7 / Arvika - Kristinehamn (123 km, unplanned end)

The trip was supposed to end the next day in Stockholm, however, I rode the largest part of the day on roads where cars could go up to 90 or maybe more, so it was stressful. Then I checked and it seemed from the maps that the remaining part of the trip had to be ridden on roads as such. Probably I was getting quite tired too. So I decided to cut it and take a train all the way to Stockholm. Another proof that the route planning has to be thorough. A bit disappointing, but cars and fatigue had made the trip not so enjoyable, hence my decision. Overall I learnt a lot about bikepacking in this trip, so this unplanned end is fine.