Something new for us to cook with eggplants. It's enough for two, in a small baking dish (7 " x 9") . Somewhat based on Michael Simons recipe (https://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/michael-symon/moussaka-on-the-grill-8874568) but putting back the Greek roots (potatoes)
Ingredients
Eggplant and Meat Sauce:
A small eggplant, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
6-8 ozground meet ( beef, lamb, we actually used turkey)w
1/2 large or one small yellow or red onion, peeled and diced
3-5 cloves garlic, sliced
1 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 cup red wine (Maya thinks shouldn't go in there)
1 fresh bay leaves
1 /2cinnamon stick
Small bunch fresh oregano or 2 tbsp of dried
One 14-ounce can crushed tomatoes
Bechamel Sauce:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tbsp cup all-purpose flour
1 cup whole milk
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 egg yolks
some lemon zest
Season the eggplant slices on both sides with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Turn to coat. Grill the eggplant slices straight over direct heat, flipping once, until tender and lightly golden brown on both sides, 5 to 7 minutes. You can move them from direct to indirect heat as needed. Transfer the eggplant slices to a baking sheet or a plate and set aside.
Place a 6-quart heavy bottomed saucepan over direct heat. Add a few tablespoons of olive oil along with the ground meat to the saucepot and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring to break up the meat, until well browned and caramelized, about 5 minutes. Then add the onions and garlic with a pinch of salt and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook until rust colored, another minute. Add the wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until almost completely evaporated, about 5 minutes. Using butcher's twine, tie the bay leaves, cinnamon stick and oregano into a bundle. Add the crushed tomatoes and the spice bundle to the pot. Move the pot over indirect heat and simmer until thickened, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and discard the spice bundle.
For the bechamel sauce: In a heavy bottomed saucepot over direct heat, melt the butter. When butter has melted, whisk in the flour and cook until it forms a smooth paste, 3 to 4 minutes. Slowly whisk in half of the milk and once the mixture is smooth with no lumps, whisk in the remaining half and the nutmeg. Bring to a gentle boil and cook, stirring often, until thick and velvety, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the pecorino. Set aside to cool slightly, then whisk in the egg yolks and lemon zest.
To assemble: Place the eggplant slices on the bottom of an enameled dish or cast-iron and cover with the meat sauce. Pour the bechamel all over the top, spreading it out into an even layer. Place over indirect heat, cover the grill and cook until light golden brown and bubbly on top, about 40 minutes.
Wine Pairing: F. Stephan Millier, 2021 Black Label Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi
Bolognese Ragu is one of my favorites to make. It goes with many pasta, including lasagne,although when I was cooking it at the Seminar for complex systems in Klosters, Ch., in 1983, Annelise, an Italien student, asked what I am making. I said "Spaghetti Bolognese", and she respondet "I don't know Spaghetti Bolognese, but there is macceroni Bolognese.". The closest to Italian macceroni (long tubes, not the horns used in macceroni and cheese) I could find in the US (or make) is bucatini.
The Accademia Italiana Della Cuchina recently updated the recipe for Ragu Bolognese, it now allows up to 20 % of pork in the minced meat, pancetta, onions, carrots, celery, tomatoes and tomato paste, red or white wine, and the addition of chicken liver, Salsiccia, cooked peas, mushrooms, and only nutmeg, pepper and salt as spices. (https://www.accademiaitalianadellacucina.it/it/ricette/ricetta/rag%C3%B9-classico-bolognese ). I always like to be more creative, using what's in the fridge. Items not allowed are marked with a *
Ingredients
About 450g (1 lb) ground beef with some pork (I’ve also used some veal in there*). You can also use some Salsiccia (Italian sausage) meat instead of pork.
240 g (8 oz) pork pancetta, finely chopped (can be skipped too)
About 1 onion peeled and finely chopped
1-2 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped
1-2 celery stalks or celery roots (or parsley roots*), trimmed and finely chopped
250 ml (1 cup) of red or white wine
250 ml (1 cup) of vegetable or chicken broth (or just water)
800g (1 lb 12 oz, a large can) crushed (San Marzano) tomatoes (I like the tomato taste; the original uses less tomatoes, or even passata, the strained tomatoes)
2 tbsp tomato paste
1-2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped*
2 tbsp fresh oregano leaves, finely chopped*
1-2 bay leaves*
6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Sugar*, salt and pepper to taste
Preparation
Add olive oil and the pancetta to a heavy pan or cast-iron pot and cook over medium heat until the pancetta has melted.
Add the finely chopped root vegetables ( I prefer onions first) and cook, stirring constantly, until softened and caramelized.
Some just add the meat, I prefer to remove the pancetta and vegetables with a slotted spoon, up the heat a little, and cook the meet (preferable in small portions) until sizzling and browned, about 10 minutes making sure you break up all the lumps with a wooden spoon. You could do this forst as well, setting the meat aside.
Add the vegetables back in, together with the garlic, oregano, 1-2 bay leaves, and tomato paste, cook a few minutes while stirring.
Pour in the wine and cook until its almost evaporated, stirring to make sure everything from the bottom is dissolved.
Now add the broth as well as the tomatoes, stir and bring to a boil, cover and let simmer for 30 minutes.
7Add pepper and salt, and probably some sugar to break the tomato acid to taste (don’t burn your mouth) and continue to let it simmers for another 1-2 hours.
If you use it as a ragu for pasta, or for pre-fab lasagna sheets, you can add chicken broth or water to make it more liquid. For home-made lasagna pasta, keep it more solid without it burning or drying up.
As pasta, you can use 450 g / 1 lb (for 4-6 people) spaghetti, tagliatelle, bucatini, or penne. Serve it with grated Parmigiano or Pecorino cheese.
I cooked this for the first time with my friend Lorenzo from Trento, It., at the Seminar for complex systems in Klosters, Ch., in 1984 . It is a recipe from Puglia, and it became popular in the US in the last few years. Orecchiette is Italian for "little ears", referring to the shape of the past .
Ingredients
400 g / 1 lb Orecchiette (best made by hand, see below, or bought as fresh pasta)
1-2 bunches of Broccolini (shown here), Baby Broccoli, or (best) Rapini
1 onion, peeled and cut into coarse stripes
1 red, orange or yellow pepper, cut into thin stripes
2-4 Hot Italian pork sausages (salsiccia), optional
2-3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1 pepperoncino, finely chopped, or hot pepper flakes
3/4 cup dry white wine or vegetable or chicken broth
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Shaved or grated Parmigiano or Pecorino to serve
Preparation
Bring a large pot of water to boil, and add 2 tbsp. of salt.
In the meantime, wash and clean the vegetables, cut the thicker stems into ¾ inch pieces, and separate from the flowery parts.
I like salsiccia (italian sausage), so I usually add it. There are different ways, all good. Since I like the taste of the cooked Salsicca better than when fried raw, I add the Salsiccia to the boiling water and let cook for 10 min. In case you use a frozen Salsiccia (I often do), cook for 15 minutes. Take the Salsiccia out , rinse under cold water, remove the skin and cut into ¼ inch slices. If you use a raw Salsiccia, you also can peel it and cut it into slices, or just use the crumbled meat itself .
If you use raw salsiccia, add olive oil to a large pan or cast-iron pan, add the sausage slices or minced meat and fry for 10-15 minutes over medium heat until crispy. Transfer the salsiccia with a slotted spoon into a bowl and discard the oil.
In the meantime, blanch the vegetables in the boiling water, first the thicker stem parts for 3 minutes, then add the leaves and flower, let cook for about 5-8 minutes until bright green and not wilted. Remove the vegetables and keep them in a bowl.
Bring the water back to a boil and cook the pasta, about 1-2 minutes less that what the package says, in the green vegetable water. They will be finish cooking in the sausage-rapini sauce.
Add 2 tbsp olive oil to the pan and heat at medium heat. Add the onions, let saute for 3 minutes, then add the peppers, garlic, and pepperoncini and cook, stirring constantly, until softened. Add the salsiccia and stir.
Deglaze with the wine or broth a few minutes before the pasta are done.
Once the pasta are done, return the vegetables to the pasta water and transfer pasta and vegetables to the pan with a skimmer. Add some Pasta water and let cook for another 2-5 minutes until you have a creamy layer of sauce on the pan floor.
Serve with shaved or grated Parmigiano or Pecorino
Homemade Orecchiette
From 400 g (1 3/4 cups) fine Semolino flour, 200 ml (3/4 cup) warm water, and a teaspoon of salt make a smooth dough bu kneading it for about 5 minutes.
Let it rest in the covered bowl for 20-30 minutes.
Divide it into 6-8 pieces and roll them into 1 cm thick (pinky finger) rolls. Cut these into 1 cm wide pieces.
Press a knife down the far edge of a piece and drag it at a 45 degree angle towards you, so it curls over the knife. Gently pull the dough off the knife and push your thumb inside, and turn it inside out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-FhKlzPvdI
Vicki Bennison ,Pasta Grannies: The Official Cookbook: The Secrets of Italy's Best Home Cooks, 2019
These images show them with DIY orecchiette and fresh chillies - Excellent (So much better with DIY pasta)
Wine Pairing: F. Stephan Millier, 2021 Black Label Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi
Timballo alla Terramano was my favorite food at an Italian place in a strip mall in Laurel, MD, called Pasta Plus (don’t let the name deceive you). A neighbor in the marina, Salvatore from NYC, recommended Pasta Plus, claiming it was the best Italian food on the east coast, and we agree. Unfortunately, they closed over Covid, but you can still watch them making Timballo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqO5riRIpUI&t=111s). It took me many views of the video and quite some research to copy the recipe.
There are many variations of pasta pies such as Timballo. The name comes from the Italian word for drum, since some were made in a round shape that looked like a kettle drum. This uses crepes instead of pasta.
The ingredients I used were the crepes (scrippelle), a very basic beef ragu (just fried ground beef), a tomato sauce, an egg wash (bagnata), mozzarella, and grated parmigiano or pecorino.
Scripelle (Crepes)
According to Nonna Igea: 1 egg, 1 egg-shell of water, 1 tbsp flour, salt.
For about 12 scipelle:
6 eggs
6 Tbs / 3/8 cup / 50 g flour
1.5 cups / 373 ml water
A pinch of salt
These crepes , scripelle, are different from french crepes, as they are more egg-crepes, with little flour. The recipe here is from Nonna Igea (https://www.vincenzosplate.com/how-to-make-homemade-crepes/), but most recipes are very close, with more liquid and/or a little more flour. Nonna Igea uses an empty eggshell to measure the water, since most eggs have about 1/4 cup of volume, I used that as a reference. Some scripelle recipes, for scripelle m'busse in broth, use less egg, more flour, and milk, more like french crepes.
Beat the eggs for about 5 minutes, and then add salt as well as the flour, slowly while beating to make it smooth without clumps. Then slowly add the water, stop if the batter seems to liquid.
Heat a nonstick skillet on medium heat. Poor some olive oil in a small plate and use a kitchen towel to wipe the skillet with the olive oil and spoon about 1/4 cup of batter into the center of the pan as you swirl the pan in a circular motion to make a very thin pancake. When the batter starts to bubble, use a thin spatula or knife to lift it up at the edges and then turn it over with your fingers. The cook a little more until you see it becoming lightly browned.
Tomato sauce:
1 onion
1 large can of crunched tomatoes
olive oil
The ‘ragu’:
1lb / 500 g of ground beef, olive oil:
Bagnata:
2 eggs, 4 tbsp of milk
Assembly
8 oz/250 Mozzarella Cheese (fresh), 1 cup Grated Parmigiano
In a saucepan, sauté the minced onion in abundant olive oil until soft and translucent.
Add the tomatoes and a pinch of salt.
Simmer for about 15 – 30 minutes
In a large pan, heat 3- 4 tbsp of olive oil
Fry the ground beef, making sure there are no larger clumps, until it's crispy.
Add some pepper and salt
In a small bowl, whisk the egg and milk together until smooth
Directions
I (as well as the chefs at Pasta Plus) cut the Mozzarella cheese into small (1/4”/5 mm) cubes (if you don’t use grated mozzarella) and mix it thoroughly with the cold ground meat – this. way you get a homogeneous distribution of cheese.
Start by coating a casserole (7.5"x10" or 8.5 x12") with butter, and spread some of the tomato sauce on the bottom.
Then lay the scrippelle to cover the bottom, and have them hang over the sides , you will use them at the end to “close” the package.
Spread some of the mozzarella/beef mixture, tomato sauce, and a few tablespoons of the bagnata
Cover with scrippelle (just the sauce) and repeat until your ingredients are used up, at least 5 layers
Leave some of the tomato sauce for the top and to serve.
Before you cover the last layer, flip the sides from the start back in, cover the top, and cover with tomato sauce. Spread some grated Parmigiano on top.
Bake the timballo at (180C/350F) for about 45 minutes to an hour, until golden brown on top. Let it rest for about 15-20 minutes before serving. Serve with the rest of the tomato sauce.
https://the-cooking-of-joy.blogspot.com/2013/06/ken-forkishs-same-day-straight-pizza.html
Wine Pairing: 2022 Hugl Zweigelt
My daughter started using this dough, it made sudden decisions to make pizza no longer possible (I'll add a few other pizza doughs). But this dough turns out excellent, thin crispy crust, 7 minutes baking time, just excellent.
Ingredients:
250 g (about 1 1/2 cups) all-purpose flour
175 g (about 3/4 cups) warm water, 90-95°F
5 g (about 2 teaspoons) kosher salt
0.5 g (about 1/8 teaspoon) instant dried yeast
Preparation
Place the yeast and 1 tablespoon of the warm water in a small bowl and set aside (Img 1)
Combine the flour and remaining warm water in a large bowl
Mix by hand until just incorporated. (Img 2)
Cover and let rest for 20-30 minutes.
After it has rested, sprinkle the salt over the dough.
Stir the yeast mixture with your finger, then pour over the dough. Use a small piece of dough to wipe the remaining yeast goop from the small bowl, then add it back to the rest of the dough. (Img 3)
Mix by hand, wetting your working hand before mixing so the dough doesn't stick to you (Img 4) . I used a stand up mixer to knead the dough, it really only takes me a few minutes. Once all the ingredients have been fully incorporated, and you can't feel the grains of salt in the dough, cover and let rest.
After 30-60 minutes, apply a fold to the dough to help develop the gluten (Img 5) and lightly coat the dough and the bottom of the bowl with olive oil to help prevent sticking (Img 6)
Cover and let rest until the dough is about double its original volume, about 6 hours after mixing.
Moderately flour a work surface. With floured hands, gently ease the dough out of the bowl onto the work surface in a somewhat even shape.
Dust the entire top of the dough with flour, then cut it into 2 equal-size pieces.
Cradle the dough in both hands and gently stretch the dough from the top towards the sides and then under, rotating several times so that there is a nice, tight, even tension around the dough ball. Try not to degas the dough while doing this.
At this point I transfer each ball of dough to its own sandwich bag, dribble in a little olive oil to coat, and let it rest in the fridge overnight, up to 2 days. If you want to use it that day, let it rest at room temperature for 30-60 minutes and then refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to make the dough easier to shape.
I had it rest (after Img 6) for more like 12 hours (overnight), in the morning it was doubled and I cut it in two and continued as suggested.
When you're ready to use the pizza dough, place a pizza stone in the upper portion of your oven (about 8" below the broiler) and preheat to 600°F or as high as your oven can go (mine only goes to 550°F). After it has preheated, continue heating the pizza stone for another 30 minutes.
Cover a peel or cutting board with parchment paper and lightly flour. Remove the dough ball from the fridge and put it on the floured parchment paper. Gently pat it down a bit to coat the bottom with flour. Leaving about 1"of the outer rim undeflated, punch down the middle, then flip the dough over and repeat.
Using both hands, grab the rim and lift the dough so it hangs down vertically. Let gravity pull the rest of the dough down and stretch it. Run the rim between your hands, working all the way around the circumference of the dough several times. Start stretching the rim between your hands while continuing to turn the dough, still letting the bottom of the dough pull down, expanding the surface. Keep a close eye on the thickness of the dough; you want it thin, but you don't want it to tear or develop holes.
Spread the dough on the floured parchment paper and run your hands around the perimeter to shape it into a round and work out the kinks.
Top the pizza with your desired toppings.
Flatten the dough on parchment paper
Stretch the dough with the fists to about 10 " diameter
Add the toppings and the cheese and put on the pizza stone
Perfect Pizza
As you can see, the pizza dough turned out perfect: I let it go over night, split it and put it in the fridge in the morning, took it out at 2 pm, back in the fridge for 30 min at 60 pm. I was able - look at the pics - to stretch the dough with my fist, got two perfect round 10" pizzas. I was able after a few iterations to even toss it in the air to make ir round - but of course not for Pizza Napoletana ( https://www.pizzanapoletana.org/public/pdf/Disciplinare-2024-ENG.pdf)
For the tomato sauce I melted a medium size finely sliced onion, use a large can of san Marzano crushed tomatoes which I had strained before adding it to the onions, cooked it (don't forget salt and pepper) for 30 min.
I put the dough on flowered parchment paper and started adding the pizza toppings.
On the pizza we put sauce, and a half each of tomato slices and mozzarella slices; pepperoncini , red bell pepper slices, artichoke hearts , onion rings, and grated Italian cheese; jamon serrano ham, sliced white mushroom and grated Italian cheese; and jamon serrano ham, artichoke hearts , pepperocini, onion rings and grated italian cheese.
We heated to stove to 550 F with the pizza stone, after it was hot, we waited 30 minutes. We put in the pizza for 7 minutes (2 more than recipe asked for) , and added 2 minutes of broil (which I think you can skip).
https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1025581-caramelized-fennel-pasta
Ingredients
8 tablespoons cold unsalted butter
3 whole fennel bulbs, trimmed, bulbs and green stalks thinly sliced, fronds finely chopped
Salt
1 cup pinot grigio
12 ounces long pasta, such as spaghetti, linguine or fettuccine
1⅓ cups/ 5 ounces finely grated Parmesan
Source: NYT
Preparation
In a large pot over medium heat, melt 6 tablespoons of butter. Adjust heat to high and add the thinly sliced fennel bulbs and stalks. Season with a big pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the fennel is soft and golden brown with dark brown edges, for 25 minutes. As you’re cooking the fennel, deglaze the pot with ¼ cup of wine every 6 minutes or so, whenever you see dark spots developing on the bottom of the pan. Adjust heat as needed.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook pasta for 3 minutes less than what the package directions call for, until al dente. Reserve 2 cups of pasta water then drain the pasta.
When the fennel has thoroughly caramelized in the pot, add the chopped fennel fronds, the pasta and 1 cup of pasta water over medium heat. Sprinkle half of the grated Parmesan over the pasta. Toss everything to combine, then add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, 1 cup of pasta water and the remaining grated Parmesan. Toss everything for 1 to 2 minutes, until the sauce is glossy and coats the pasta. Serve immediately.
I did add 1/2 Italian sausage, shredded and fried after 2/3 ds of the time, and replaced pinot grigio with Vermouth Dry, Grappa and some Water
Was ok, tasted good, had it caramelize too long which took out the Fennel taste totally
https://www.seriouseats.com/orecchiette-con-le-cime-di-rapa
Very similar to Orecchiette alla Lorenzo, using anchovies instead ot salsiccia.
Ingredients
For the Breadcrumbs:
Breadcrumbs
1 garlic clove (5g), minced
2 tablespoons (30ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the Pasta:
1/4 cup (60ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
4 anchovy fillets (5g)
3 garlic cloves (15g), minced
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
12 ounces (340g) dried orecchiette
1 pound (450g) broccoli rabe (rapini), leaves and florets picked from stalks, stalks discarded
Directions
For the Breadcrumbs: Combine breadcrumbs, garlic, and 2 tablespoons (30ml) oil in a large skillet, and cook over medium-low heat, stirring and tossing occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer toasted breadcrumbs to reserved rimmed baking sheet, spread into an even layer, and set aside to cool to room temperature. Wipe out skillet.
For the Pasta: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, combine 1/4 cup (60ml) oil, anchovies, and garlic in now-empty skillet. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring and breaking up anchovies occasionally with a wooden spoon, until anchovies have dissolved and garlic has softened and is just beginning to turn lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add red pepper flakes and continue to cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove skillet from heat.
Add broccoli rabe to boiling water and cook, stirring frequently to keep submerged, until floret stems are barely tender and leaves have softened, about 1 minute. Using a spider skimmer, fine-mesh strainer, or large slotted spoon, drain rabe while keeping boiling water in the pot; transfer rabe to a plate and set aside.
Add orecchiette to boiling water and cook, stirring frequently for first 30 seconds to prevent pasta from sticking. Once pasta has cooked for 5 minutes, transfer 1 cup (240ml) of pasta cooking water to skillet; continue cooking pasta. Return skillet to high heat and bring to a boil, swirling pan and stirring constantly until cooking water emulsifies with olive oil-anchovy mixture, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low while pasta finishes cooking to prevent liquid from over-reducing.
Meanwhile, continue cooking pasta until it is softened on the exterior, but well shy of al dente and still uncooked in the center (about 3 minutes less than the package directions). Using a spider skimmer, transfer pasta to skillet along with reserved broccoli rabe. Alternatively, drain pasta using a colander or fine-mesh strainer, making sure to reserve at least 2 cups (475ml) pasta cooking water.
Increase heat to high and cook, stirring and tossing rapidly, until pasta is al dente and sauce is thickened and coats noodles, 2 to 3 minutes, adding more pasta cooking water in 1/4 cup (60ml) increments as needed. At this point, the sauce should just pool around the edges of the pan; it will continue to tighten up in the time it takes to plate and serve, so make sure it's a little looser than the ideal serving consistency. Season with salt to taste.
Remove from heat, divide pasta between individual serving bowls, drizzle generously with olive oil, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and serve right away.
Corzetti Pasta with Osso Bucco sauce
We had sauce left from osso bucco the day before, so we used it to try the Corzetti pasta stamps I just had gotten.
For the corzetti pasta
300 g all purpose flour ('00' flower is too fine)
50ml white wine (1/4 cup) If your dough seems dry add a bit of tepid water. You can also use only water.
3 egg yolks
1 pinch salt
Recipe is from my favorite pasta blog: https://www.the-pasta-project.com/homemade-corzetti-pasta-with-marjoram-pine-nuts/
Preparation
I learned pasta dough is easier made by hand:
Sift the flour on a pastry board, make a large well in it and put the egg yolks and wine. Mix the ingredients a little with a fork, bringing a little flour towards the center and then knead for about ten minutes.
Form your dough into a ball and let it rest for at least half an hour at room temperature, wrapped in plastic wrap.
Use the pasta machine to generate the pasta plates, not too thin (1 mm).
Use one of the stamps to cut out the circles from the pasta dough. Now put the circle on the bottom stamp, and press the stamp with the handle on top. Remove the pasta from the stamp onto a floured kitchen towel.
Cook the pasta medallions in a pot of boiling water (with some salt and a tbsp of olive oil) a few at a time ( Don’t put more than 20 corzetti in the pot together and aim for 10- 12 per person). Once they rise to the surface let them continue cooking for 3-4 minutes. Make sure you check the pasta before you remove it from the water. Once it’s ready, remove with a slotted spoon and add to the sauce.
Place a pasta disc on the stamp
Press the stamps together
This is what they look like