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Tirami su
Tirami su
Growing up in Munich in the 80s: No party without Tirami su. By far the best was from Lorenzo's mother from Trento, It. I've made it with my own biscuit cake base, made my own ladyfingers, or used commercial Lady fingers, it all works.
This time around I wanted to use my Sous-Vide setup to pasteurize the eggs, just to try it. I followed the recipe from Serious Eats (https://www.seriouseats.com/how-to-pasteurize-eggs-8675279). Submerge the eggs in a large container of water fitted with an immersion circulator. Set the immersion circulator to 135°F (57.2°C). Once the temperature has reached 135°F (57.2°C), start a timer for 90 minutes. I monitored the temperature with a meat thermometer as well, which always indicated 2-3 deg. F lower than the sous-vide thermometer, which I the set to 138 F. That was probably, judging from the results, too "hot".
After 90 minutes, immediately transfer the eggs to an ice bath.
It turns out that the yolks were great, and they worked jut as well as raw yolks would have when whisked with the sugar.
The egg-whites were white and jelly, fortunately the recipe didn't require meringue anyway. The Tirami su recipe here is from one of our favorite cook-books about Italian food, " Die echte italienische Küche, ISBN 3-7742-1102-7 ":
Ingredients
Zest of 1 lemon
1 lb (500 g) Mascarpone
4 egg yolks
4 Tbsp granulated sugar
2 cups espresso, cold
2oz (6 cl) Grappa, Brandy, or Amaretto Disaronno
Cocoa powder
About 2 packages of ladyfingers
Preparation
Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until the eggs are pale and creamy, about 2 minutes.
With a flexible spatula, lift the mascarpone into the egg mixture in little portions
Add the lemon zest
Prepare a baking dish, and mix the espresso and liquor in a cup
If you use ladyfingers (self baked or commercial which I did in this case) , dip the ladyfingers very short into the liquid, one by one, and arrange them densely at the bottom of the dish.
Once you finished a layer, spread half of the mascarpone mixture evenly onto the layer.
Make another layer of the espresso-soaked lady-fingers, and cover it with the rest of the mascapone creme.
Keep it covered in the refrigerator for at least 5 hour.
Before serving, dust the surface with the cocoa powder.
In another recipe from one of my favorites, "Die Küche in Südtirol", ISBN 88-7014-361-9 (picture is from this book, forgot to take one) , the recipe utilizes 3 of the egg whites by beating them and lifting them under the mascarpone cream.
Apple Custard Cake
Apple Custard Cake
https://www.washingtonpost.com/recipes/dorie-greenspans-custardy-apple-squares/
Ingredients
2 tbsp (28 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
3 -5 medium juicy, sweet apples (Gala, Fuji), peeled and decored (1 pound/500g grams)
1/2 cups (70 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1/3 cups (70 grams) granulated sugar
1 pinch fine salt
2 tsp vanilla extract
6 tbsp whole milk (3/8 cup, 90 ml) at room temperature
Confectioners' sugar for dusting (optional)
Variations
A couple of tablespoons of dark rum, calvados, or armagnac, or a drop of pure almond extract to the batter.
Add some orange or lemon zest to the sugar.
I actually added resins cooked in rhum foe 10 minutes.
Directions
Time Icon
Active: 30 mins|Total: 1 hour 15 mins
Step 1
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees. Grease an 8-inch square baking pan with a little butter.Step 2
Slice the apples from top to bottom using a mandoline, Benriner or sharp knife, turning the fruit 90 degrees each time you reach the core. The slices should be about 1/16 inch thick -- elegantly thin, but not so thin that they’re transparent and fragile. (If they’re a little thicker, that’ll be fine, too.) Discard or compost the cores.Step 3
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder until combined.Step 4
In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar and salt until the sugar has just about dissolved and, more importantly, until the eggs are pale, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the vanilla extract, then the milk and the melted, cooled butter. Add the flour mixture and whisk to form a smooth batter.Step 5
Add the apples to the bowl, switch to a flexible spatula and gently fold in the apples, turning the mixture until each thin slice is coated in the batter. Scrape the mixture into the pan, smoothing the top as evenly as you can. It will be bumpy; that’s its nature.Step 6
Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until golden brown and puffed — make sure the middle of the cake has risen — and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool for at least 15 minutes or completely.Step 7
Carefully cut into 9 equal squares in the pan (being careful not to damage the pan); or unmold the slab onto a rack, flip it onto a plate so it is right side up and then cut it into 9 squares. Either way, give the squares a dusting of confectioners’ sugar before serving, if you’d like.
Faschingskrapfen
Faschingskrapfen
FFaschingskrapfen (essentially donuts) are a big thing during Fasching, Mardi Gras in Germany. It comes from using up the fat in the house before lent, so in Germany it is fat Thursday , as here its Fat Tuesday (Mardi Gras). We always had Krapfen during this time, often made at home. I always made them once my kids would enjoy them. I'm still making them!
I was reminded seeing a recipe in the Süddeutsche Zeitung
where they introduced "schleifen", a way to roll them. So I was going to try it this way this time.
Ingredients
They are made with the Yeast Dough , for which you need:
Prepare the Sweet Bread Dough according to the recipe, and allow to rise in a warm, draft-free space until doubled in size (about 1-2 hours).
Gently deflate dough and turn out onto a clean, lightly floured surface.
Roll the dough out until it’s ½-inch thick.
1 cup (236 ml) milk
⅓ cup water
2 ¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
⅓ cup (70 g) granulated sugar
5 Tablespoons (70 g) unsalted butter melted
1 large egg
2 large egg yolks
2 teaspoons table salt
5 cups (625 g) all-purpose flour plus additional as needed
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)
Zest of a lemon (optional)
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg (optional)
The "schleifen" method
Cut the dough into pieces of about 40 g (1.5 oz) - more important than the size is that they are all about the same
Take each piece and roll it (schleifen) on the tabletop
Until its a smooth ball
I didn't succed doing the rolling, I ended up rolling them in my hand (see below) , not so smooth though , but they look ok. Give them a little push down to make them "donut" shaped Once you're done, let them rest under a kitchen towel for about 1-11/2 hours until they about doubled in size.
Otherwise you will also need
Apricot Jelly (traditional)
granulated sugar for finishing
What I now think was the best method (I'll use again next time) :
Roll the dough out until it’s ½-inch thick. Using a 3" (7 cm) cookie cutter, cut out dough rounds and gently place each on a floured baking board. Knead the left-overs and re-roll the dough once or twice to use up all of the dough. Cover the m with a kitchen towel and let them rest 1 -11/ hours.
My mother actually made thinner rounds, maybe 1/4 ", but the she would brush egg yolk on the perimeter, and a tsp. of jelly in the middle of half of the rounds and cover them with the other rounds. Egg-yolks, when dried during rest, acts as a seal.
Fill a pot with at least 2 inches of oil. Heat over medium until a deep-fry or meat thermometer registers 350 degrees.
With a slotted spoon, Using the parchment square to help, carefully lower a dough round into the pan and quickly remove the parchment paper. Fry two dough rounds at a time (so as not to overcrowd the pan), for 2 minutes per side, until golden brown, maintaining the oil at 350 degrees between batches. Remove from the oil and let cool on the prepared baking sheet. While still warm, roll the doughnuts in granulated sugar and set aside to cool completely, about 45 minutes.
Step 7
Fill the doughnuts: When the doughnuts are cool, insert a small knife into the side of each doughnut and move the knife back and forth inside the doughnut to make a pocket. Attach a round tip to a pastry bag (see Tip) and fill with the cream filling. Pipe filling into the hole in each doughnut, until the doughnut is slightly inflated and cream begins to overflow from the hole. Serve immediately. (The bomboloni are best when eaten fresh, but once filled, they can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Any leftover cream filling can be served topped with berries or ice cream or spread on toasted brioche as a bonus treat.)
Ingredients
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 3/4 cups (350 grams) granulated sugar (It's too much, less next time)
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 large eggs
3/4 cup (180 milliliters) vegetable oil
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose (I used whole wheat) flour
4 medium apples, cored, peeled and thinly sliced, then cut into pieces (I ended up using 5 medium apples)
1 1/2 cups (180 grams) coarsely chopped pecans or walnuts
It was excellent, but a little too sweet
Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. I used a small french baking dish (6"x8") which I buttered up, and a silicone muffin pan. It's enough for 2 81/2x41/2 loaves
In the mixing bowl, whisk together the cinnamon, allspice, salt, baking soda, baking powder, sugar, vanilla extract, eggs and oil until well incorporated. Stir in the flour just until no dry spots remain, to form a stiff batter, then fold in the apples and nuts; the mixture will look more like coated apples and nuts than like cake batter.
Fill the dish and the muffin pan and bake for 60 to 75 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center of each loaf comes out clean. The tops will be firm and browned.
Bayerischer Nusszopf
Bayerischer Nusszopf
This is something we had almost every weekend when we grew up (without the nuts). I've made King Cake once with Sam's Sweet Bread Dough (https://sugarspunrun.com/king-cake-recipe/#recipe), and it came out wonderful, since then that is the sweet-bread dough recipe I use.
Ingredients
1 cup (236 ml) milk
⅓ cup water
2 ¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
⅓ cup (70 g) granulated sugar
5 Tablespoons (70 g) unsalted butter melted
1 large egg
2 large egg yolks
2 teaspoons table salt
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon optional
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg optional
5 cups (625 g) all-purpose flour plus additional as needed
Filling
2 cups (300 g) roughly ground Walnuts (or Hazelnuts)
1 cup raisins
½ cup (100 g) light or dark brown sugar
3/4 cup (150 ml) heavy cream
2 tbsp of vanilla extract
1 tbsp ground cinnamon (optional)
Egg wash
1 large egg
1 teaspoon water
Lemon glaze
1/4 cup (30 g) powdered sugar
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Instructions
Combine milk and water and heat in the microwave until the temperature reads between 105-115F (40-46C) with an instant read thermometer
Pour liquid into a the bowl of a stand mixer with the dough hook attachment, add yeast and a teaspoon of the granulated sugar and stir until combined. Allow to sit until yeast is foamy (5-10 minutes). Note that if your yeast doesn't foam you will need to start over.
Add remaining granulated sugar, melted butter, egg, egg yolks, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and 2 cups (250g) of the flour and stir until all ingredients are well-combined.
Gradually stir in additional flour until your dough is well-combined and clinging to itself as you mix. It should be slightly tacky to the touch but not so sticky that it’s sticking to your fingers. You may not need all 5 cups of flour, or you may need more.
Turn dough out to a clean, lightly floured surface and knead for 5-10 minutes or until you have achieved a smooth, elastic dough. Add additional flour as needed if dough is sticking to your hands.
Place dough in a clean, lightly oiled large bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Allow to rise in a warm, draft-free space until doubled in size (about 1-2 hours).
Prepare the Filling: In a bowl, mix the nuts, raisins, sugar, cream,and vanilla extract to a smooth paste.
Gently deflate dough and turn out onto a clean, lightly floured surface. Split into 3 even parts
Do the following for each part:
Roll each into a neat 10×7” rectangle.
Spread 1/3 of the filling evenly over the surface of the rectangle, leaving a ½” (1 cm) perimeter around all sides.
Roll the rectangle lengthwise tightly into a rope and pinch the edges to make a seam.
Once all 3 are done, twist the three ropes together at one end and start braiding them. Twist them together at the end as well.
Transfer the braid to a buttered baking dish.
Cover with a towel and allow to rise until increased in size, about 45 minutes.
Baking
While dough is rising, preheat oven to 350F (175C) and prepare an egg wash by whisking together 1 egg and a teaspoon of water.
Once dough has risen, remove towel and lightly brush all over with egg wash. Transfer to preheated oven and bake for 30 minutes or until bread is golden brown, or preferably when a thermometer inserted in the thickest part reads 190F (87C).
Prepare glaze by whisking together powdered sugar and lemon juice, making sure that the glaze is not too liquid. With a baking brush, coat th worm bread with the lemon glaze.
Torta Caprese
Torta Caprese
https://giadzy.com/blogs/recipes/torta-caprese-giada-de-laurentiis
Ingredients
5 large eggs separated
1 cup / 230 g granulated sugar
1.5 cups / 10 oz / 280 grams bittersweet chocolate, about 1.5 cups if chips
1 cup/ 8 oz / 230 g softened unsalted butter
1.5 cups / 340 grams super-fine almond flour
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
powdered sugar for dusting
Preparation
Preheat the oven to 350°.
Put the chocolate and the butter into a glass or metal bowl and cook over a double boiler until completely melted. Set aside and let cool.
Add the egg whites and 1/4 of the sugar to a stand mixer with the whisk attachment and whip on high speed until stiff peaks are formed, about 2-3 minutes. Chill in the refrigerator.
Add the yolks and remaining sugar to a stand mixer with the whisk attachment and whisk on high speed until light, pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes.
Remove the bowl from the stand mixer and fold in the almond flour until combined, then fold in the chocolate and vanilla extract until combined.
Lastly, in 2 batches, fold in the chilled meringue until combined.
Prepare a 10” springform pan with butter and cocoa powder (The recipe asks for a 9" springform, my 9" french tarte dish turned out a little too small for the amount of batter)
Pour the batter into the buttered pan and bake at 350° for 40 to 42 minutes.
Cool completely and dust with powdered sugar.
Giadzy also has a white chocolate Caprese I should try: https://giadzy.com/blogs/recipes/lemon-torta-caprese-giada-de-laurentiis
Leipziger Apfelkuchen
Leipziger Apfelkuchen
One of the standards of my childhood, known also as "Apfelkuchen sehr fein (Dr. Oetker)" or "versunkener Apfelkuchen" (sunken apple cake). This recipe is translated from Emmi (https://emmikochteinfach.de/einfacher-apfelkuchen-gelingt-immer/#wprm-recipe-container-23173 )
Ingredients
4-5 apples, peeled, cored and quartered
2 tbsp lemon juice (for the apples)
150 g (10 tbsp or or 1 1/4 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
150 g (3/4 cup) granulated sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
150 g (1 cup) all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
2 tbsp milk
3 large eggs, room temperature
1 tbsp vanilla extract
1 tbsp lemon juice
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 175C or 350F.
Butter an 9-inch springform pan and line the bottom with parchment paper - I like to take a french baking dish, doesn't require paper
Place the granulated sugar, the lemon zest, and the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer, beating until light and increased in volume.
In the meantime, thinly slice the apple quarters almost to the core, taking care not to cut through, leaving the quarter intact.
Toss the apples with the lemon juice from the same lemon you just zested. Cover and set aside.
Whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. Set aside.
Add the eggs, one at a time, to the butter and sugar mixture, scraping down the sides after each addition.
Add the vanilla extract and the lemon juice.
Reduce the speed and fold in the flour in two additions.
Pour the batter into the pan, and place the apple quarters, sliced side up around the perimeter and in the centre.
Bake for 55-65 minutes until it passes the skewer test.
While warm, run a small offset spatula or a knife around the sides to release the cake if needed.
Sprinkle with powdered sugar
Best Apples for Baking
Best Apples for Baking
Best Sweet Apples for Baking:
Jazz
Pazazz
Honeycrisp
Pink Lady
Jonagold
Fuji
Rome
Best Tart Apples for Baking:
Granny Smith (in my opinion, this is the best overall apple for baking)
Braeburn (a sweet-tart variety)
Jonathan
Pacific Rose
Cortland (slightly tart)
Hefeteig (Sweet-Bread Dough)
Hefeteig (Sweet-Bread Dough)
This is something we had almost every weekend when we grew up (without the nuts). I've made King Cake once with Sam's Sweet Bread Dough (https://sugarspunrun.com/king-cake-recipe/#recipe), and it came out wonderful, since then that is the sweet-bread dough recipe I use.
Ingredients
1 cup (236 ml) milk
⅓ cup water
2 ¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
⅓ cup (70 g) granulated sugar
5 Tablespoons (70 g) unsalted butter melted
1 large egg
2 large egg yolks
2 teaspoons table salt
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon optional
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg optional
5 cups (625 g) all-purpose flour plus additional as needed
Instructions
Combine milk and water and heat in the microwave until the temperature reads between 105-115F (40-46C) with an instant read thermometer
Pour liquid into a the bowl of a stand mixer with the dough hook attachment, add yeast and a teaspoon of the granulated sugar and stir until combined. Allow to sit until yeast is foamy (5-10 minutes). Note that if your yeast doesn't foam you will need to start over.
Add remaining granulated sugar, melted butter, egg, egg yolks, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and 2 cups (250g) of the flour and stir until all ingredients are well-combined.
Gradually stir in additional flour until your dough is well-combined and clinging to itself as you mix. It should be slightly tacky to the touch but not so sticky that it’s sticking to your fingers. You may not need all 5 cups of flour, or you may need more.
Turn dough out to a clean, lightly floured surface and knead for 5-10 minutes or until you have achieved a smooth, elastic dough. Add additional flour as needed if dough is sticking to your hands.
Place dough in a clean, lightly oiled large bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Allow to rise in a warm, draft-free space until doubled in size (about 1-2 hours).
Gently deflate dough and turn out onto a clean, lightly floured surface.
Now you can proceed with what you want to make
Cover with a towel and allow to rise until increased in size, about 45 minutes.
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