The plan is to produce seasonal crops throughout the year. The production system was evaluated on the crops themselves (varieties, quality, volume, site suitability, seasonal production). The production process was also evaluated, from propagation, crop management, pest and disease management, through to harvesting, marketing and distribution.
At each evaluation, compile a report to provide a summary breakdown and explanation of how crops were grown/produced, used and distributed. Explain how organic standards were applied in the production process for the crops grown. Include general operations carried out together with specialised production activities. You should cover the crops themselves (variety choice, quality, crop volumes, their suitability to the site, seasonal suitability. The processes and methods of crop production should be evaluated in terms of propagation, crop management, pest and disease management, weed management through to harvesting, marketing and distribution.
Note: crop management is the processes and methods for crop production on site e.g. crop rotation, thinning, intercropping, catch cropping, crop hygiene, IPM etc.
Carry out an evaluation of the crops grown to this date. In your report, look at successes and failures, crop variety choice, volumes grown, suitability to the system, pest and disease issues, crop rotations. Also look at harvesting and distribution. Provide recommendations based on you observations to improve crop production across the site for the future. Reference should be made to organic compliance across all actions/processes undertaken. Give evidence for any claims you make.
Propagation
Initial propagation for my market garden growing system began on the 26th of September, a few weeks into spring time. I began by planning out crops I wanted to grow particularly for the summer growing season as set up of the growing space was not completed until Wednesday 4th of October. In hindsight, seed sowing would have taken place mid to late august to be ready to plant out now at the end of October and beginning of November.
Please refer to the crop timetable document here to see record of all crops, varieties grown and planted.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1b18k5_kUGiyzBKitSql7dS1OL1fgZYIxg8_fojPye6o/edit?usp=sharing
In compliance with Biogro standards certified organic seed raising mix was used https://tuigarden.co.nz/product/tui-organic-seed-raising-mix-biogro-certified/ with reasonable success and 99% germination results. Certified organic worm castings https://revital.co.nz/growwell-revital-worm-castings/ were also added to this mix to help with fertility. A large mix of seeds were used with companies listed below:
Kings Seeds, both non organic and certified organic
Koanga, organically grown, chemical free heritage seeds
Yates non organic seeds
Egmont non organic seeds
Kiwi garden non organic seeds
World kitchen non organic seeds.
I choose to use what seeds I had on hand to help keep costs low and use the resources that I already had access to. If I had more time and money and were undergoing Biogro certification I would have purchased and chosen to use only certified organic, open pollinated seeds to comply with these principles and criteria. I would have also strived to have sourced locally grown, organic seeds that are bred to adapt well to the Taranaki climate. Under compliance of Biogro, as long as no prohibited materials were used in the creation of these seeds including:
All seeds used are non genetically modified.
All seeds were very quick to germinate and were pricked out 3 weeks later before their true leaves appear into their own separate seed cells. This occurred on the 18th of October. Cucurbits has a fast growing rate and are ready to be planted out two weeks later. However, tomatoes, capsicum, eggplant are still in their juvenile stage and too small to plant out.
Crop management
Crop management has begun with the monitoring and care of seedlings at home and direct sown rows in the market garden. At home seedlings are kept in a small 4 tier poly green house and watered each day with weekly liquid feeds. Observation at night to identify which pests are eating the seedlings and ensuring they are getting the conditions they need to thrive with plenty of sunlight. Directly sown seeds were covered with a fine knit bug net to protect them from wind, heavy rain run off and pests such as birds, snails and invertebrates (earwigs, beetles) from destroying them during germination and initial growth. Rain has been efficient enough to maintain moisture, but now as it reaches November weekly watering's will take place and will increase over summer as the heat rises.
Pest and disease management
Pest management has only just begun with the creation of the market garden site along with existing operations in place with the conservation students at WITT who have provided their results and methods on pest management of vertebrate species:
Health of seedlings will be paramount in managing pest and disease formation and populations so ensuring their needs are met through regular care as mentioned above will help be the preventative baseline to ensure the plants remain strong and healthy and less susceptible to pests and disease. Beneficial microbes and organic seaweed seaweed watering's will also be used as a preventative and fixative measure to improve the health of the seedlings and plants and to maintain a healthy soil and plant microbiome. Physical removal of pests will also be preformed with populations monitored via an IPM approach.
In organic compliance, NO sprays, will be used and only consideration of Bio gro certified pesticides such as organic Neem will be considered only if all other IPM, physical removal via water hosing or hand removal of pests, companion plantings, introduction of predatory species via egg tags, physical traps used. My priority is to ensure the health of the crops with biodiverse polycrops will support plant health via exudates that feel soil and inturn soil food web worms, microbes, protozoa, fungi and more feed and maintain crop health and there will be minimal if at all need for more intensive intervention to control pests via organic sprays.
Weed management
Weed management began with an initial large working bee with three volunteers who assisted me in broad forking the entire market garden space (5x6m) and transplanting a large existing rosemary. Broad forking and manual removal by hand was used as the dominant form of perennial and annual weed management. Refer to the weed management section in Crop production to see which weeds were managed and how they were managed. This was completed in a day to which placement of woodchip and compost was laid in the creation of pathways and growing beds. These thick layers of wood chip and compost help to suppress any new germination of annual weeds. However due to this not being 100% effective, a butane flame weeder has been used up and down the perimeters of the beds to kill off any freshly germinated weeds before they establish strong rooting systems and become more labourous to remove. A light hand weed each week will also help to keep on top of these weeds.
In Organics compliance,
Harvesting
As of this evaluation report 1, harvesting has not yet occurred and will be recorded in the following reports. I plan to create a harvest calendar and making a plan on how and what to harvest by gathering this information and keeping it in my crop timetable document and researching into the best practices.
Marketing
Marketing has began on my social media account where I have a following of locals and gardeners around New Zealand, where I have began updated my progress and documenting the market gardening journey to create interest in the products. I have also verbally marketed to the Taranaki farmers market that I will be attending some summer markets by the end of December and over the new year.
I plan to continue to market my progress online on social media and create a small marketing campaign as I am in charge of the farmers market social media to gain exposure for my crops over summer and beyond. I plan to advertise on Instagram and Facebook and market myself through my stall at the farmers market also.
Distribution
Distribution of crops has not yet begun due to there being no harvests as crops are yet to grow and be planted out. I have, like marketing started to plan out who my audience is and who and where I will distribute crops to following harvests. This includes customers of Taranaki farmers markets, friends, families and local food banks and possibly even WITT students and residents of the Te Henui lodge.
Carry out an evaluation of the crops grown to this date. In your report, look at successes and failures, crop variety choice, volumes grown, suitability to the system, pest and disease issues, crop rotations. Also look at harvesting and distribution. Provide recommendations based on you observations to improve crop production across the site for the future. Reference should be made to organic compliance across all actions/processes undertaken. Give evidence for any claims you make.
Crops grown:
Back bed (Bed 5):
Tomatoes - 1 plant of each of the following were grown
Varieties:
Sunrise bumble bee ( kings seeds)
- Subject to the curling and elongating disease
- Ripened the quickest out of all varieties, didn't ripen (till late feb, early march 2024)
- Good fruit set
- Great flavour and aesthetic quality, good market value
- Heirloom, open pollinated seed, organic, great for saving seed if controlled.
- Certified organic (Organic compliant)
- Would grow again
Yellow Pear (purchased plant from clarty farm)
- Subject to the curling and elongating disease
- Did not ripen, (minimal ripening in march)
- Fruit set, but very small
- Supposed to be a good cropper with great flavour
- Healthy seedling that was altered by the strange disorder
- Unfortunately was unable to sample
Rupunzel (Purchased plant from mitre 10, grown by zelandia)
- I have history with growing this tomato in home garden, creates long trusses of bright red tomatoes
- amazing flavour, my favourite mid size cherry tomato
- easy to harvest truss
- This season, did not grow well at all due to being subject to the leaf curl and elongated disease/disorder
- Heavily deformed fruit, very small
- Minimal ripening, very late in the season march/april
- Nothing to sample
- F1 hybrid variety, non organic seed and seedlings (Not compliant)
Beefsteak (yates seeds)
- Very healthy plant, bright green foliage, was not affected by the diformities and leaf curl
- Lots of a large fruit set all over plant
- Unfortunately did not ripen well, no edible tomatoes
- Was very heavy on string and a frame structure
- Yates seeds, open pollinated, can be found organically for compliance
Roma varieties?
- Healthy plants, grew well with green foliage and lots of fruit set
- Ripened the second best out of all varieties grown, (ripened late feb)
- Mild, flavour, large juicy tomatoes
- Heavy cropper
- Unsure of variety?
Overall:
Next summer season, I would start tomatoes seedlings in August/early September to ensure these seedlings are well established before planting out. I had good growth on these seedlings before planting, however they were smaller that I had hoped at the point in the season in which were planted out from the 11 - 15th November. I would be planting out the tomato seedlings a few weeks earlier, hopefully in the end of October to get more growth and to ensure optimal ripening periods and maturity in late December through the February if conditions are right.
This season I struggled with ripening due to the cold snaps at the end of the season and this was mainly due to late planting of the tomato seedlings. This meant I had a very minimal harvest of tomatoes this season due to the lack of heat when the crop was finally mature to ripen. I had plenty of fruit set, so pollination levels were great. It was unfortunate timing which will be corrected by earlier seed sowing and planting out periods.
Overall plant health was good levels with minimal signs of disease, good growth, fruit set and bright green leaves. I had no incidents of blight or other fungal diseases. I made sure to remove any browning leaves and pruned and trained up wards on a frame trellising for optimal airflow. There was a strange leave curl disorder which appeared on the left side of the bed. Very strange growth habits occurred within the left side tomatoes, elongating stems and fruits into odd oval shapes compared to growth of the same varieties at home in the past. Odd leave curling occurred also. We are unsure of the origins of this disease, we suspect possible heavy metal prevalence as there has been a history of crops/tomatoes not growing well in this section of the market garden site. I have sent of soil samples to soil safe Aotearoa to see if any evidence of metals show. Despite this disorder, fruit still set in plenty, however growth and ripening was stunted. Next season I will look into using all organic varieties, to ensure compliance.
Beans
Varieties:
Scarlet runner bean
- Grew fast and really well from direct seeding
- flowered lots and provided pollinator value
- climbed well amongst tomatoes, although got too intertwined and tangled, turned out hard to harvest
- no disease or pest issues
Blue lake green bean
- Grew well from seed
- didn't put on as much growth as scarlet runner
- Only got a small hand full to harvest
- no disease or pest issues
If I were to do this polyculture mix again, I would give beans their own stake to climb on instead of free growing. A wooden or bambo stake would be installed so they could climb on these instead and allow easier growth and harvest for both beans and tomatoes. I would grow blue lake again as scarlet runner, whilst they were great for pollinators and prolific, they're not the nicest eating bean. Find organic climbing bean to use, look into koanga as they have a lot of heritage varieties - for compliance.
Basil
- Sweet green variety, grown by zelandia (not compliant)
- Grew really well, strong healthy plants with an abundance of leaves
- Fantastic companion plant that helped with soil coverage, fragance to deter pests and flowers at the end of the season for pollinators
- Easy to grow and harvest
- Good market potential with multiple harvests and decent market value as a fresh herb bunch
- Would definitely grow again with tomatoes
- no disease or pest issues
Next Year I will grow an organic variety from seed to ensure compliance.
(Marigolds - these were fantastic companion plants which were a big asset to the tomatoes bed for pollinator value and pest deterrent properties. They grew fantastically, with abundant flowers and good soil coverage) Plants purchased from mitre 10 and the warehouse, but can be easily obtained through organic seeds for compliance. Nematode . pumps ozone
Bed 1:
Beetroot
- Grew from direct sowing, kings seeds kestrel F1 variety straight into the bed and filling in gaps with plug seedlings grown from the same seeds.
- All great germination and growth, very minimal disease, minor leaf spot on some plants, which is common with beetroot.
- All plants reached a large size, great quality and flavour and sold well at the farmers market.
- Would definitely grow these seeds again or look for a organic alternative for organic compliance.
- Beetroots worked really well next to carrot row in this polyculture bed, will definitely use this combination again
- Will need to improve a little bit on seed spacing and thining out, but this was only a minor issue
- Grew really fast over summer season
- no disease or pest issues
Carrot
- Grew all from direct sowing, kings seeds Scarlet Nantes Variety.
- Awesome carrot, sweet, long and cruchy with fantastic germination rate and harvest results
- Sold well at the farmers market
- Easy to harvest
- No disease or pest issues
- I again need to work on thinning out earlier to ensure uniformity in sizes for carrots to avoid large variation
- Will look into sourcing organic seeds to ensure compliance
- worked well beside beetroots, space efficient, will definitely use this combo again in a polyculture bed
Dwarf beans
- Another success, grew from a mix of direct sowing and planting out seedlings.
- Mix of varieties, all seemed to perform really well. Dwarf bean mix from yates seeds, green and purple varieties were fantastic. Eco seeds (Organic farms nz certified organic) performed really well too.
- No pest of disease issues
- Prolific plants, sold well at the farmers market
- delicious tender beans
- I would ensure to plant successions to have a continous supply next season and have a mix of the purple and green beans
- Easy to harvest
- Worked well with the carrots and beetroots
- Unfortunately got smothered by the courgette folliage in the neighbouring bed later in the season
- Would definitely grow again in this system, and ensuring to use organic seeds for compliance
- Showed visible nitrogen nodules with nitrogen fixing bacteria appearing in soil
- Nice long roots
Radishes
- These unfortunately were sown a little too late and didnt germinate too well due to lack of sunshine from being covered in bean and carrot foliage
- They were squeeze in between rows
- Got small harvest
- Variety was nice, french breakfast radish by eco seeds, would grow again
- Needs to have more space and it's own designated row instead of being squeezed in between rows
- Good market potenial - aesthetic bunches
- Fast cropper
- Would grow again but need to tweak and would replace onion row with radishes instead
- Continue to source organic seeds for compliance
Spring onions/chives
- Chives (world kitchen seeds) were direct sown, with little to no germination
- Spring onions were planted by seelding (bunnings) not compliant. Unfortunatley didn't grow too well, seeldings were veery small and lacked enouch moisture during early summer to get a good start so a lot of them dried up
- Awesome space saving plant once established
- Easy to harvest and sell
- Did not work the best in this polyculture bed, needs tweaking, could work well if it was replacing the beans, but not with the beans in the same bed
- Need to ensure higher moisture levels in the soil upon planting, lots more watering to ensure establishment when young
- Use organic seedlings and seeds to ensure compliance.
(Alyssum)
Great companion plant at the ends of the beds to invite pollinators , bees, hover flies and more, will defintiely keep this as a companion plant, but ensure to monitor seed spread as this is likely to become a weed. Find organic seeds for compliance. They worked really well at the ends of the beds to increase biodiversity and habitat for beneficial insects.
Bed 2:
Courgettes
- I planted two varieties of courgette, 1. Cocozelle heirloom courgette from Setha's seeds and 2. Yellow zuchini seedling from Natural Lea spray free seedling.
- The yellow courgette performed the best, fruitng early, okay pollination rates and good fruit set
- Yellow variety was a much smaller plant and a lot more space efficient than the cocozelle.
- I would grow the yellow variety again due to these factors, but see if I can either source these seeds organically or get them reviewed as they are likely to be a hybrid variety, but their space saving qualities are important in a small market garden
- Yellow variety did show signs of powdery mildew slightly earlier than the cocozelle, although they were smothered alot by the other cocozelle foliage
- Cocozelle was a difficult variety
- It produced beautiful striped large and tasty courgettes
- Unfortunately fruit set was low and often would go to marrow very quickly, as the plant flowered profusely but didn't fruit as much, more male flowers than female.
- The cocozelle foliage and growth habbit was extremely prolific, it was a very fast growing plant, with a lot of vining and loads of foliage that soon took over the whole bed and began to encroach on other beds and smother neighbouring plants.
- It is a great variety for its uniqueness, but requires a lot more space. So I will not being growing this variety again in a small market garden space.
- I will be looking into smaller growing varieties of courgette instead and see if I can source an organic seed or work with organic farm nz to work with possibly conventional smaller hybrids I need if I can;t source them organically.
- No pest issues, there was only powdery mildew later on in the season. I was actually surprised at the health of these plants for so long considering we had a lot of rain over the season, so the plants bared well and only succumbed to the mildew disease very late in the season and still were able to put on good growth.
- Cold snaps early autumn destroyed the plants
- Overall, if I were to do courgettes in a market garden bed again I would look soley for smaller growing varieties, include a lot more flowers interplanted like borage and look into different training techniques to find ways to save more space, like verticle growing.
(borage, snapdragons, alyssum, calendula, cosmos)
- These were all fantastic companion plants within the courgette bed
- The main aim was to help increase pollination and fruit set for the courgettes, as well as invite the polycropping in with flowers and biodiversity
- Borage, cosmos were fantastic for bees, as well as other varieties
- Next season I would plant more and ensure all seeds sourced were organic wherever possible
- Look into planting more calendula and borage as these are great edible flowers with great market potential to sell (had interest from market customers)
Bed 3:
Lettuce
- I direct sowed the row of lettuces, including my tutors home saved seeds which performed really well, they were a prolific cos-like lettuce with good bolt resistance, fantastic growth, creating large hearty long heads of lettuce and great flavour. I also sowed the summer 'frisby' variety from kings seeds which did well also, bolted a little sooner than the cos, but still had great flavour, good growth. Both had great germination and growth results.
- The greens bed is were I had the most trouble with being a beginner market gardener. With the lettuces, I did not thin out the seedling enough, so they ended up growing very closely and eventually too close beocming overcrowded which eventually resulted in a lot of the lettuces getting a rot, which is a fungal issues common here in the wet Taranaki climate. I would defintiuely next time space out the lettuces a lot more to ensure more room to grow and allow more air flow
- The fungal rot was the only disease issues
- Unfortunately due to the closeness of the lettuces, and lack of air flow, this invited a bout of aphids which occupied the lettuces for a short period. This small infestation eventually dissapated (without any action) as the season went on
- Next season I would want to focus on planting out seedlings of lettuce and have a good succession plan to ensure continual harvest. I would focus on smaller heading varieties which are easier to havrest, where you canharvest the entire lettuce at once istead of individual leaves which is what I did this time which was incredibly time consuming. Or varieties that are a cut and come again type to get multiple harvests and sell these as bagged lettuce.
- Ensure good succesions to avoid plants going to seed like I did this season. I need to get into a better rythym of succesion sowing
- They sold well at the farmers market in medium size bags
- I will source organic seeds and research better varieties for market gardening
Rocket
- Rocket was direct sown, I used Mr fothergills organic (not certified) seeds. Germination rates were fantastic, with a full row of rocket
- Great flavour and big lush green leaves
- Easy enough to harvest, but I let the plants get a little too big and had to hand harvest individual leafs. If you leave the plant smaller, they can easily be cut off at the base and use as a cut and come again crop
- No diease or pest pressure
- Sold really well at the farmers market
- Would definitely grow again and look into sourcing certified organic seeds for compliance
- Letting a few of the rocket plants go seed, produced lots of small white flowers that were very favourable of bees, so I will definitely let a couple plants do this again later on in the season to support pollinator species.
Spinach
- I grew summer surpreme spinach variety from yates seeds. This variety was awesome. I grew seedlings that were planted out, as well as direct sowing.
- Amazing flavour, tender green leaves, large and non bitter spinach
- Great market value
- Minimal pest pressure, there was a small bout of aphids as with the lettuce, I think this was due to lack of watering and the effect on the plant health. But the plants bounced back well
- Prolific plant, easy to grow and fast grower
- Laborious to pick, needed to pick each individual leaf by hand which was the main downside of this variety. Need to work out if this can be harvested with a greens harvester or to grab and cut.
- I would grow this again, but need to improve harvesting methods
Capsicum
- Chocolate capsicum, seedling from Murray Lowe in Urenui.
- Grew really well, flowered profusely, fruited and ripened quickly early summer.
- Unique colouring and flavour.
- Will grow again, seeds available from Koanga.
- Unfortunately later in the season, the plant was smothered by the trombochino squash
- Orange Snack Capsicum
- Purchased seedling from mitre 10
- Grew well, loaded with fruit
- Unfortunately didn't ripen, too late in the season
- Would grow again, seeds available from egmont seed - organic variety somewhere?
- From previous growing at home garden, great flavour, novelty size, sweet, good market value, prolific plant for size
- Did get smothered by lettuces and squash so stunted growth
- Sweet Conical Red Capsicum
- Amazing long fruit at maturity
- Planted too late to ripen
- Prolific plant
- Slower to grow and fruit than others planted
- Nice long thin walled fruit with great flavour when planted in the past.
- I might not grow this variety next year and instead use the heirloom Jimmy Nardello sweet capsicums for compliance instead
Overall capsicum summary:
Capsicums were planted out a little late, 11 November which meant they took ages to fruit and had minimal ripening. Mainly due to lack of sunshine from smothering of neighboring greens and the tromboncino squash. Next time I would choose the smaller lunchbox and chocolate and try different heirloom and organic quick ripening varieties, try them with a poly tunnel over top to get them established. Allow them a lot more space to grow and ensure they were not being smothered by other plants to ensure they received adequate amount of sunshine. Or even go for growing jalapenos and shishito peppers that do not need to be ripened before harvesting to maximise profitability in the polyculture. None of these capsicum varieties I planted showed any signs of pest pressure. There was a curling leaf disorder on some of them but I think this may have been from lack of sunlight early in their life or changes in temperatures, which seemed to have self corrected later in the season when they had more access to light. No plants show signs of yellowing or nutrient deficiency.
Eggplants
I grew Baby Brinjal, Black Beauty and Ping Tung Long varieties by seed, all germinated very well and grew into strong seedlings. Unfortunately, this crop was a complete disaster and none of these varieties reached maturity simply due to the being smothered by the neighboring rows of lettuces and spinach, so they did not receive enough sunlight in order to grow. I would want to plant these out a lot earlier, start the seeds earlier in August and think about including polytunnel system or reserving them for greenhouse growing in the future and instead maximizing on profitable crops that perform well and provide a sizable harvest.
(Poppies)
Were a honourary plant that popped up at the end of this bed, which I left to grow for biodiversity and pollinator species support. They were beautiful flowers that were favoured by bumble bees. They can be invasive, so I made sure to remove all seed heads before they dried. I would grow again, but monitoring would be important.
Bed 4:
Cucumbers
Mini me cucumber from Egmont seeds, was the variety I grew
- these were very prolific cucumbers I grew from seed
- were quick to mature and set fruit
- self pollinating
- produced uniform, sweet, crunchy, thin skinned cucumbers, delcious flavour
- prolific
- good market value and sold well at farmers market
- Was subject to a bout of aphids mid summer, to which I blasted of physically with a highpowered hose to and the plant bounced back.
- Unfortunately it got smothered by the trombocino squash and the plant died off early in the season
- I would definitely grow this variety again, however giving it enough space, sunlight and ensuring to pick them young would be the main improvements needed to takeplace.
- I would want to look into different varieties, organic for compliance and more telegraph, thin skinned, great eating varieties that grow well all season
- Also looking into different growing and training methods as the cucumbers did struggle to grow on the zig zag structure I built. I believe spacing was to far and too many gaps for tendrils
Apple cucumber, yates seeds
- Grew well, prolific
- Minimal disease and pests, no signs of powdery mildew
- Classic variety popular at markets
- Small - large uniform fruits
- Unfortunately was smothered early on by trombocino squash
Tromboncino squash
Yates heirloom variety seeds grew fantstic from seed and responded well as soon as it was planted
- EXTREMELY PROLIFIC, this was both this plants positive and negative combined.
- Produced an insanely large vine with giant foliage and strong rooting apendages that very quickly got out of hand and took over the entire right hand side of the garden, beds 4, 3 and 2.
- Fruited and flowered profusely, however due to the sheer size of the plant became quickly unmanageable and hard to harvest the fruit.
- Fruit harvested was abundant, young fruit was very fleshy with a mild nutty flavours and unique curly shape and vibrant light green colour
- I thought this would have provided a great point of difference and interest at the market, however, it was rather a talking point and inquisitive interest rarther than a purchase to eat. So it would be a great talking point and attraction for the eye at a market, just not the best on saleability and profit
- I would not grow this again in the market garden space and would instead give it its own area to grow like a pumpkin would or in a controlled area with heavy pruning.
- This crop proved to be detrimental in many ways to surrounding crops via smothering . It proved to not be a suitable crop for a market garden bed system.
(sunflowers, zinnia, salvia)
These flowers were fantastic companion plants on the very end of the bed. Grew profusely copvered in blooms all summer long and well into Autumn into april, feeding lots of bees and butterflies. I will defintiely grow these again, they worked well on the end of the bed next to cucumbers and just over from the tomato bed to help improve pollination and provide habitat for pollinating and beneficial species. Added beautiful colours and have cut flower potential as another stream of income in the garden
Over the growing season, I used and recored data in a spreadsheet for crop timetabling. This was a very basic set up that labeled all the crops grown, what time, variety, bed placement, dates sown and planted and notes. I would like to improve this method and add another bed specific spread sheet which shows what's in what bed at a certain time and how long they are in there till harvest. There is a lot to fine tune for this data capturing method, but it has been a good foundation
Due to the experimental nature of polycropping, I simply applied the knowledge I had on the topic to the garden and had many successes and also failures to learn from. I have an extensive list above on what works well together and what doesn't and an individual analysis on each crop and if they thrived or failed. I will defintely be revisting this list to plan out the next summer season and research more polycropping systems.
There were gaps in the system I want to avoid and need to ensure I have a robust crop timetable and planting plan, that is easy to follow. Becoming more in tune with crop timings and that have quick succesions and keeping up with the timings of these. I will use my network of market gardners and online to obtain this knowledge, along with my tutor.
IPM & IWM were successfull during this season. I will need to maintain these practices and keep observent of any pest, disease and weed issues that arise and refer back to these methods for effecient management. I would also like to capitilse on all the biodiversity end caps for pollinators and beneficials I have been using. I could be plating varieties that feed and support these beneficials while also being able to sell them for cut flowers and edible flowers to turn them also into a cash crop.
Harvesting, which is mentioned above in each seperate crop, was a big experience in itself. Main distributions of crops took place as pick and eat or take home for friends and family, as well as farmers markets.
FARMERS MARKETS;
I attended two farmers markets over the summer season 1. Jan 14th 2. February 18th. These were at the height of the growing season and I had a good harvest for each of these markets. Both harvests were carried out the night before the farmers market, after sundown for ease to have things ready the night before. I had my partner and his parents help for the first market and then my partner and my mum help for the second. It worked well and we spent 1.30-2hrs for each harvest at night when temperatures had eased. We used chilly bins with icepacks and teatowels to prevent ice burn and to keep produce fresh.
Root crops were easy to harvest, gently pulling, we had a bounty of these which allowed for 2 rows to provide a good supply of carrots and beets for two markets. Courgettes and zuchetta and cucumbers we easy snip harvest and sold very well, along with the root crops. Caveat being the zuchetta were hard to sell as I believe customers thought these looked a bit strange and intimidating to cook. So there is strong possibility I will not grow these again, also being that they took over majority of the garden at full growth. Mini cucumbers and courgettes sold relitively well. Organic beans bunches sold well, as well as pumpkins and bagged rocket, lettuce and spinaches. Radishes also. Same with tea kits and edible flowers. As well as herbs.
The hardest to harvest and process was the greens. This was very time consuming being handpicked, often one leaf at a time, and then washed, spun and bagged. I will be looking at harvesting whole heads of lettuce or looking into a more efficient greens harvesting method to save time. I used sealable plasitc bags and a hand spinner, however this didn't removed as much moisture as I'd hoped and left the bags with condensation. I chose to leave greens on top of carrots and beets and leave them unwashed for an authentic just dug look. I think some customers appreciated this and some didn't. Some of the tops of these crops did wilt by the morning, mainly because I left them outside of the sealed chiller bag, so they lost a bit of their freshness.
I kept my set up very simple, it was easy to bring prepacked chillers down and display all crops on the table. I had hand written signs which kept with the student, homegrown theme and was pretty happy with the set up. Next time I would invest time into designing my labels and infusing more colour and even more personality into my stall.
My first market had a good response, with selling out majority of crops. I made $144 all up that day. I had forgotten to recount my float for the next market.
Overall: The farmers markets were definitely worth it for the experience of selling and marketing crops to the community. I would definitely do them again. Next time I would be more prepared with having a log of what I wanted to sell and how much I could provide, how many crops were in each bunch, the number of bunches, number of fruits and weight and number of bags of greens, their pricing and how many I sold on the day. I wish I had kept better track of these details and this will be my main change moving forward. I would also invest more time into marketing and designing more signage. Possibly having samples of crops too. This all comes back to having a better crop plan and succession sowing to ensure you have enough crops each week or bi weekly etc for the farmers market. These two markets were wonderful tasters to see what customers wanted and what they didn't like.
I now have a good foundation of understanding what it takes to attend the farmers market and what you need to do and have to be successful. Its about consistency and this is what I will focus on with crop plans in the following seasons.
Possibly looking into other sales avenues such as veggie boxes or set orders will be the way to go for this small scale. This means I will be able to produce the 'exact' amount of crops require for familys, couples or chefs each week and will allow me to plan for this and work backs wards to ensure consistent supply. I think a garden on this small scale isn't completely fit for the visual bulk and supply required for the farmers market and it might be a case of only attending these on certain occasions during the height of the growing seasons.
Carry out an evaluation of the crops grown to this date. In your report, look at successes and failures, crop variety choice, volumes grown, suitability to the system, pest and disease issues, crop rotations. Also look at harvesting and distribution. Provide recommendations based on you observations to improve crop production across the site for the future. Reference should be made to organic compliance across all actions/processes undertaken. Give evidence for any claims you make.
At this point in the year, it is time to transition crops into autumn and winter annuals that will survive and thrive in cooler temperatures.
To begin this transition, I had amazing help from level 3 horticulture students who helped me to remove majority of old crops and residues from each bed. It was a very efficient and successful couple hour working bee. We left the back bed 5 with the tomato polycrop as small fruits were finally ripening. As well as capsicums in and endcaps of flowers to maintain biodiversity, particularly for pollinators when pollen and nectar in flowers becomes more scarse as we enter winter.
Bean crops were still fruiting, along with beets and we had loads of zuchetta and greens for the students to take home also.
All zuchini plants had died back due to the cold snaps and powdermildew had swept in. I will definitely be choosing smaller growing and quicker growing courgettes in the next season.
Lettuces were left to go to see along with rocket due to poor timing and crop rotation, something that will defintiely be imporved on with sticking to crop plans and having good routines in place for sowing and planting. Flowers from these green crops provided pollen and nectar for pollinators and contributed to roots in the soil and biodiversity above ground, so althought this wasn't ideal from a profitable and production based view, which is crucial, however atleast it was supporting the ecosystem.
While we were gently pulling out crops, we had a lot of positive reinforcement of nitrogen nodules being formed on legumous crops which is a great sign that the soil is doing well and we have a good level of nitrogen fixing bacteria in the soil.
All the summer season crops were defintiely feeling the effects of the cooler temperatures so this was the right time in March to take these out and start planting autumn and winter crops, which we will see planned below.
I have decided I wanted to be more efficient with planting out and crop rotation during the autumn and winter months after learning from my mistakes over summer. I dedicated 1-2 hours a week for going consistently to the garden and planting our 1-3 rows in each polycropping bed and rotating species throughout. This turned out really successful and has allowed me to plant out the entire autumn and winter garden by May.
To our suprise, the tomatoes ended up doing really well and were finally ripened over march-april. This was a really late season crop that I had hoped to be harvesting from late jan, through to february and after. These tomatoes did struggle and ended up being very small. We are still speculating this has something to do with soil health which will hopefully be revealed in an extensive chemcial soil test. However we did get a somewhat reasonable very late crop out of these tomatoes. This polycrop of tomatoes, basil, beans, marigolds and cosmos worked really well and stood strong until late april. I will definitely use this polcrop system again, making minor adjustments to when they are all planted out earlier and growing the beans up their own poles or using dwarf bush beans instead.
I made sure to start planting out straight away after we removed majority of the summer crops to ensure the soil wasn't left bare for long periods, as I did at the beginning of the year.
Crop production was organic compliant and in alignment to Organic Farm NZ (Bio gro) standards over the summer season, using minimal organic fertilisers, zero chemical sprays or inputs, emphasis on soil health and having as many roots in the soil as possible, conserving water use and relying on mostly rain water during the wet summer season, using IPM and IWM principles and we experienced minimal weed and pest pressure over the summer season. The main tweaks that need to be made to be soley compliant would be ensuring all seed used was certified organic or specially signed off by biogro if there was no alternative, same applying to seedlings used. Soil and fertiliser imputs also need to be coverted and changed to all organic certified, including compost, blood and bone, lime and sheep pellets. These can be easily swapped over and organic certified imputs used in place.
AUTUMN/WINTER PLANNED POLYCROPS:
BED 1: (carrot, beetroot, spring onion, dwarf beans, radish)
Row 1: Bloomsdale winter spinach (yates and kings seeds*) *Organic, Need to be organic
Row 2: Carls lettuce (homegrown organic seedlings)
Row 3: Pakchoi (kiwgarden and egmont seeds) Need to be organic
Row 4: Spring onion (bunnings seedlings) Need to be organic
(Row 5): Parsley (bunnings seedlings) Need to be organic
BED 2: (courgette, flowers polycrop)
Row 1: Pakchoi and radish mix (kiwi garden and egmont seeds)Need to be organic
Row 2: Beetroot (kestral kings seeds)Need to be organic
Row 3: Carrots (scarlet nantes kings)Need to be organic
Row 4: Radish mix (kiwgarden) Need to be organic
Row 5: Carls lettuce (homegrown organic seedlings)
BED 3: (spinach, lettuce, rocket, capsicum and eggplant polycrop)
Woven mixed rows: Silver beet rainbow lights, mustard greens, organic cauliflower and brocoli seedlings, corn salad seeded, spinach left over from previous season
BED 4: (Cucumber, zuchetta crop)
Row 1: Peas ( Snow pea mr fothergills and kings seeds) Need to be organic
Row 2: Broad beans (purchased seedlings and egmont seeds) Need to be organic
Kale planted at the left hand endcap
BED 5: (Tomato polycrop)
COVER CROP: Peas, broad beans, radish, red clover, coriander
All of these planned polycrops will be planted out over a intermitted weekly basis, which allows for good rotation and continuous harvest over autumn and winter. A focus on quick growing crops such as radishes and lettuces will be used to keep soil covered while slower crops mature around spring such as the carrots, beets, brassicas, beans and peas.
My crop focus over the autumn and winter period is to have quick growing and easy to harvest speicies, in polycrops that main focus is to keep soil covered, protected and contributing to it's health over winter so it is best prepped and primed for spring and summer growing seasons. Polycropping and cover cropping is in aliance with organic principles and this allows us to still reap a harvest over the cool seasons which can be profitable with quick growing greens and radishes etc, topped up with potential microgreens. It means maintaining a consistency while improving soil health for the cash crop seasons of spring and summer.
WEED PRESSURE:
I have struggled a bit with new weed pressure arising this time of year. Some being self seeded crops particularly calendula, lettuces, which are okay to deal with. However these are a lot of herbaceous weeds popping up this time of year which are requiring a lot more weeding that usual in between rows which can be time consuming and weren't an issue to deal with over summer.
What I'd do differently next season is ensuring all my season is planned out through a crop plan, have a consistent sowing, planting and harvesting schedule where I can record on a spread sheet and this wil allow me to maintain profitability, improving soil health and biodiversity while I'm growing crops for cash. I would want to include pea shoot microgreens and quick growing greens over winter, along with radishes and turnips, beans and peas and herbs to maintain a cash flow over the cooler seasons.
HARVESTS: Harvests and distribution of these autumn and winter crops is yet to take place, however these will now be occuring in the early morning before the sun hits the site to ensure crispness and freshness of crops. I could plan another farmers market, gifting to friends, family and students, as well as food banks.
All crops grown will be easy pull, pluck and cut to keep harvests easy. Having the help of friends and family keeps harvest time to a minimum.
Cover cropping resources:
Increasing Diversity in Market Gardens with Winter Cover Crops - Understanding Ag
Armoring Your Soil for the Winter - Understanding Ag
Regenerative Gardening, No-Till Winter Cover Crop Strategies - Understanding Ag
No-till Vegetable Cover Crops | EcoFarming Daily
This is your final crop production evaluation report. By looking back over the growing season, summarise the success of crop production practices. Also look at what could be done better, what did not work so well. Discuss how organic compliance requirements were satisfied in the production of organic crops over the year. Provide recommendations for future crop production on the site. Give evidence for any claims you make.
Looking back over the growing season, the market garden site has been very productive and has produced a large amout of crops for food in a small amount of space. One 5m x 6.44m fenced market garden site housed 5 growing beds with the plan to turn this into a productive polycropping, biodiverse market garden space that would improve soil health, invite and maintain a flourishing ecosystem for beneficial biodiversity and to make most of the site by producing nutrient dense crops. This goal was achieved with many different bumps and learnings had a long the way. It is looking back on this year of growing seasons that proves this goal can be achieved, but a lot of refinement and improvements are needing to be made and learning from what worked and what need's adjustment. Let's take a look at the wins and losses and what could be done better, while meeting organic compliance standards of Organic Farm NZ.
HOW MUCH FOOD CAN WE GROW IN A SMALL SPACE? CAN WE DO IT POLYCULTURE STLYE?
I decided early on that I wanted to take a spin and push the boundries of the traditional market gardening methodology, which has been a very successful movement and has allowed many small - medium scale farmers to maintain and create a profitable crop production business model. There is many good teachings and lessons to be learnt from this movement and it definitely has many positivies. However the traditional market gardening space can also mirror some similar practices that conventional, non organic farmers use. The traditional market gardening scene *can* look a little something like this: *The concepts mentioned below vary wildly from each market garden, this is just a generalised list that can be commonly undertaken in the tradtional market gardening scene.
MONOCULTURES, TILLING/TILTHING, BROADFORKING, LINEAR ROWS, MINIMAL DIVERSITY IN BEDS, EXCESSIVE IMPUTS, EXCESS COMPOST, SPRAYING, REPETITIVE CROP ROTATIONS, QUICK TURN OVER, EXHAUSTING SOILS, CASH CROPS, EFFICIENT, EASY TO MAINTAIN, PLAN AND SCALE, PROFITABLE, SIMPLER.
Pakaraka Permaculture Market Garden Thames
OMG Market Garden Auckland - inspiration
I wanted to keep and align with majority of the aspects of traditional market gardening that have got it right. The efficiency, the efficacy, profitability, simplicity and manageability. These methods have got it right in so many ways. Using this wonderful foundation of knowledge and plans, I decided to branch out into a new league of regenerative market gardening. One that focuses on optimal soil building, health and biodiveristy and in turn a productive, richly diverse and regerating market garden that firstly supports the environment and then the people with nutrient dense food. How did I do this?
POLYCULTURE MARKET GARDEN - WHERE I STARTED:
I knew there was going to be a lot of experimental nature to trialing a polyculture market garden, so after researching both traditional market gardening methods and that of the new polycropping scene, I decided to choose crops I thought would best suit growing together in the same bed in a polycrop. For the love of bees is a charitable trust in Auckland supports their diversity project, OMG organic market garden in the middle of the city. This market garden produces 40 veggie boxes in a CSA weekly, along with seasonal seedling packs. OMG grows all their produce in extensive polyculture beds on a small scale. This was a huge inspiration and allowed me to have ideas of what to plant together to begin the growing season. (I later completed their Earthworkers course 2024 in late april/may 2024, which will be discussed further below). I had a rough plan written out and in my head and wanted to get started as quick as I could. In reality, I was winging it a lot and happy to be experimenting for the first season.
I began creating a rough plan for each bed and then started direct sowing seeds I had on hand; carrots, beetroots, rocket and lettuce. (October 19th 2023) I then began extensive sowing of seedling at home. See varieties used and dates sown and planted in crop timetable below.
To keep the polyculture planting methods as simple as possible, I decided to mash together standard market gardening and polycropping by planting multiple varities in one bed, but keeping these varieties in linear rows (for the most part) to keep them manageable and easy to harvest. I also decided to weave in flowers in some beds or place these on the ends to improve biodiveristy further and invite pollinators and beneficial species that would protect and pollinate crops.
Soil was prepped by:
1. gently broad forking and removing perennial and annual weeds.
2. Paths and beds were then measured out using twine, bamboo and measuring tapes
3. Paths were then layed with woodchip
4. Beds were amended with natural based inputs (see below)
5. Fresh compost from Return 2 Earth was then laid on the beds, using bucket and bag method and a wheel barrow and manual labour
6. Beds and paths formed, crops were ready to be planted in
7. A flame weeder was used early on to remove any newly germinated leaves
See more in Soil and Nutrient Management final report
ORGANIC COMPLIANCE?
This season I did what I could with what my resources and budget allowed me for to remain and adhere to organic compliance as much as possible. I direct sowed as many seeds I could for simplicity and ease. This was very effective with high success in germination and growth of certain crops. I also started my seedlings at home in cell trays inside mini propagation houses that were then transferred outside into a small shelved green house, where they were grown to mature seedlings before planting.
SEED RAISING MIX: To raise seeds, I used Tui performance organics seed raising mix with a small addition of certified organic worm castings by Revital growell. I had pretty decent germination and seedling health success with this combo. I did notice however that near the seedlings time of planting, they were yellowing slightly. I would be happy to keep using this mix for compliance with some adjustments or experiment with some other certified mixes.
WHAT I'D CHANGE/DO DIFFERENTLY FOR COMPLIANCE: Next season I would continue to use the tui organic seed raising mix with the addition of organic compost or homemade compost and miccorrzhizal fungi. I want to make sure to innoculate with beneficial microbes from the very start of their life, right from germination. I would water in with a worm casting solution. I would also like to try biolgix products.
SEEDS: I had a small seed bank saved at home for a wide variety of different seed companies, along with some seeds my tutor hand on hand. Due to the experiment nature of polycropping, I chose to go ahead with the resources of seeds I had on hand so I could see what species and varieties worked well in polycrops. I had a mix of certified organic seeds, heirloom/heritage seeds, hybrids and conventional seeds. Here is a list of seed companies I used:
Kings seeds. ceritified organic and conventional
Setha's seeds, Heritage seeds
Kōanga seeds, Heritage seeds
Eco Seeds, Certified organic
Egmont seeds, conventional
Mcgregors, conventional
Kiwi garden, conventional,
World kitchen, conventional,
Mr Fothergils, conventional
Yates, conventional
For specific varieties used, refer to crop plan spreadsheet
WHAT I'D CHANGE/DO DIFFERENTLY FOR COMPLIANCE: Next season I would continue to use certified organic seeds from Kings, Setha's and Kōanga. I would strive to use certified organic seeds for majority of crops. Unfortunately some hybrids and conventional seed cannot be sourced organically, so I would need a special written clearance/approval from Organic Farm NZ (Bio Gro NZ) to go ahead with an exemption of these seeds. Links to certified organic seeds can be found here: Data recorded from the crop timetable and above reports give me feedback on which varieties worked really well and which did not, I will use this as the foundation for this summer seasons crop plan and seed choices.
AMENDMENTS + LIQUID FEEDS: As mentioned in the soil and nutrient reports, an initial layer of organic amendments were used before laying compost. Liquid feeds of seaweed and liquid nitrosol were used about 4 times over the season. These included:
Tui Blood and Bone (non organic)
Tui Chicken and sheep pellets (non organic)
Yates Natural Garden Lime (certified organic)
Yates Potash (certified organic)
Tui organic liquid seaweed (certified organic)
Nitrosol Tomato liquid feed (non organic)
Return 2 Earth Compost (non organic)
WHAT I'D CHANGE/DO DIFFERENTLY FOR ORGANIC COMPLIANCE: Next season I will ensure to use certified organic inputs for INTENTIONAL USE. This means getting a chemical soil test and analysis done and seeing where the soil is dificient before using any amendments, including compost. I instead would like to include a regular regime of appliying liquid feeds topically to crops, with an emphasis on beneficial microbes, from seed to maturity. Biologix, along with other companies provide biology based fertilisers and supports that I will be using in place of excessive fertilisers. Understanding soil and plant health first, before blindly applying amendments that are highly likely to cause in inbalance. Refer here for a list of certified organic amendments, along with microbial based products, that I will be using in place of non organic forms and for more intentional application which meets Organic compliance standards.
I grew 90% of seedlings at home for summer, different varieties of tomatoes, cucmbers, delicata squash, golden nugget pumpkin, zuchetta, lettuces, spinach, and various eggplant varieties. Most of which was successful with germination and growth, however I did start these seedlings in late September (26th). This impacted their growth in the garden as I ended up planting these out late in the second week of November (11th). Next season, I will defintiely be starting seedlings much sooner in August to get stronger growth before planting out summer season crops such as tomatoes, egg plants, capsicum and cucumbers/pumpkins to get better establishment and better/earlier fruiting. A really late tomato and capsicum harvest was had, eggplants did not grow to fruiting, so later sowing and planting definitely had an impact on harvest.
Seedling sowing steps:
1.Selecting seeds
2. Sowing into mini green house trays with organinc seed raising mix and worm castings combo
3. Placing sown seeds in mini greenhouse containers on top of fire place (warm but not hot gas fire top surface)
4. Placing in sunny conservatory and under growth lights once germinated
5. Pricking tiny seedlings and potting up into bigger cells and pots
6. Placing outside in small greenhouse shelving units, watering in with weak seaweed solution
7. Hardening off outside for a few nights 8. Planting out in market garden.
Note: I used non organic potting mix in the pricking out stage, I will be switching to organic potting mix and compost next season.
Improvements to be made: Sowing seeds in August and planting out earlier in October for better establishment. This will be achieved by a well planned and adhered to crop sowing and planting plan, see example later in this report. Trialing organic seed raising mix with organic compost, micorrhizal fungi powder and microbial amendments, watering in with worm castings tea. Using certifed organic potting mix for potting up. Rotating and getting seedlings in full sun and growth light to avoid leggyness.
Seed sowing
Growth light after germination
Pricking out into larger cells and pots
Final growth stages in outdoor greenhouse shelving
Starting from right: Bed 1, Bed 2, Bed 3, Bed 4, at back, Bed 5. See details of crops and varieties in below polycrop breakdown.
Please refer to report 2 for in depth evaluation of these summer polycrops in each bed, as well as the crop time table above.
Beetroot - Kestrel F1 Kings Seeds (non organic)
Carrots - Scarlet Nantes Kings Seeds (non organic)
Spring onions seedlings - Bunnings (non organic)
Radishes - French breakfast Eco seeds (Certified organic)
Dwarf bush beans - Eco seeds (Certified organic)
Alyssum, snap dragons (Non organic purchased seedlings)
Was the polyculture successful? Yes - with a few adjustments. While carrots, beets and beans were establishing I would have planted in radishes to get another crop out before the longer growing roots and beans developed. Alliums are said to struggle to grow near legumes, I definitelty found this to be the case in this bed as the spring onions did not grow well next to the bush beans. Next time I would place them instead on the 1st row and shift everything else over. Or experimenting with growing different herbs next to beans such as more basil or parsley, coriander or even celery.
Again this bed was a case of not keeping out with sucession growing and sowing, so I want to ensure this is kept up with next season. Rotating crops by swapping over rows. I would be interested in trying parsley in place of spring onions. Or mixing in lettuce into this polycrop. Beetroot work best on the end for harvest and due to large leafy growth. Carrots worked really well next to the beetroots and beans. It is a matter of trialing different crops than alliums next to the beans and possibly putting alliums next to beets instead.
Overall this was a successful and productive polycrop that produced a lot of food in their separate rows. As well as experiencing minimal-no presence of pests or disease. With a few adjustments suggested above, this polycrop can be improved and even more succesfull in the next growing season. As well as working with organic compliance on trialing different alernative seeds and species will be consistently adhered to.
In terms of marketing and profitability, all these crops in this polyculture bed sold well at the farmers market for a premium price. There was high demand for these root crops, along with beans in summer. These crops would also perform well in a vegetable box system, as they are well known and favourable vegetables.
Courgette - Cocozelle, Setha's seeds (Heirloom Spray free)
Courgette - Gold yellow, Seedling from Natural Lea (Spray free)
Cosmos, borage, calendula, seeds, purchased seedlings (Non organic purchased)
Was the polyculture successful? Yes, with variety adjustment. 3 Courgette plants were ample for enough produce over the summer season. The golden courgette produced very early in the season and will be a variety I am happy to use again due it's compact growth habit and productivity. The heirloom cocozelle variety however impacted this polycrops success. Due to the vigourous nature of these heirlooms, they took over the entire bed very quickly and became rampant. I also noticed that they favoured producing male flowers vs female so there wasn't as many fruit available. The flowers could also be used for profit, a delicacy for restaurants. However it also became very hard to identify fruits when the plants became an enormity of vines and many juvenile courgettes turned into marrows. Marrows being of less desire and profitability compared to younger courgette. Flowers were successful at inviting pollinators along with the courgette flowers. However many flowers got smothered eventually.
Next season I will be trialing new varieties of courgettes, particularly those of compact growing varieties. As well as experimenting with different growing methods such as vertical growing.
I would also suggest and comment in saying that this was the least diverse polycrop in the whole system. Being that is was mainly dominated by courgettes and planted out with a few flowers. Next season I would like to experiment more with growing in between courgettes and the ends of this bed. Whether that be with Dahlias to make profit from cut flowers, planting more edible flower varieties or experimenting with climbing beans on poles or even corn in patches between courgettes.
Pests and disease were relatively minimal, however near the end of the summer powdery mildew was prevelant in patches. As part of IPM, the main management of this was physical removal of most impacted leaves. Next season I will assess using milk or baking soda and beneficial microbes as part of the management of this disease, along with increasing the number of species planted in this bed to improve soil microbial health and therefore plant health.
Cos lettuce - Seeds from Carl (Tutor) (Spray free)
Spinach - Summer surpreme, Yates (Non organic)
Frisbee lettuce, Kings Seeds (Certified organic)
Drunken women lettuce, Kings Seeds (Non organic)
Rocket, Mr Fothergills seeds (Non organic)
Eggplants, mixed varieties grown from seed, Baby Brijnal Yates (Non organic) Black beauty Yates (non organic) Ping tung long Yates (non organic)
Capsicums mixed varieties, Chocolate capsicum (spray free seedling), Lunch box orange pepper (Kiwi kitchen, non organic), Zealandia Sweet conical red (Non organic)
Was the polyculture successful? Needs improvement. Especially with variety choice. Summer spinach worked really well at the beginning with vibrant, succulent and good sized leaves. These were however laboursome to pick individually and bag. Lettuces worked well, however were also hard to harvest due to using too many different varieties in one row, with different growth habbits. Rocket worked really well also, again this was tedious to harvest due to hand picking individual leaves.
The idea was that capsicums and eggplants would be planted in the middle of this polyculture and grow up above the greens planted below. This unfortunately was not the case due to these seeds and seedlings being planted late and them being very small upon planting in beds, so soon enough they became smothered by lettuces and spinach, This was also due to poor time management and many of these leafy green crops being left to over-grow and go to seed. This is something that will be avidly improved upon next season in terms of harvest windows and crop rotation timing. In theory, this polyculture could still work.
With smaller growing lettuce varietes, that were heading like the coz lettuce so heads could be picked vs leaves. Choosing a bunching variety of spinach for ease of harvest and a cut and come again type rocket for easy harvest also. Ensure seeds for eggplants and capsicums are started way earlier in August and having their seedling growth be large and much more mature before planting out. I would also experiement with this being a large 'mesclun' mix type of polyculture that could all be harvested at baby leaf stage. However for a small polyculture garden, there would need to be multiple beds of this nature to keep up with demand.
Pest and disease pressure was present in the bed. There was a bout of aphid pressure on lettuces and spinaches, this was controlled via IPM with high pressure hose removal, as well as simply leaving the small patches of infestation which eventually cleared (likely due to plant health recovery and predatory insects). These pests were also removed during the washing of the greens for market and did not impact the overall growth of the crops. Due to lettuces being planted so close together, a late fungal rot eventuated in between and at the crown of the lettuces. Fortunately this didn't have too much impact until much later in the season.
Next season a focus on different varieties, timings and placement of plants will be the focal point to make this bed work, with an emphasis on succession sowing and crop rotation, as well as a harvest plan.
Cucumbers, Mini me + Iznik mini Egmont seeds (Non organic)
Apple Cucumber (Spray free seedling)
Tromboncino squash, Yates seeds (Non organic)
Peas, Zealandia sugar snap seedlings (Non organic)
Marigolds, Snaps Dragons, Zinnia, Salvia, (Non organic purchased seedlings)
Sunflowers, (Spray free seedlings)
Was the polyculture successful? Needs improvement. Overall in theory and in practicality this polycrop could have been more successful. The vertical growing structure worked well for the most part. Next season I would look at using a grid netting or strong natural twine to keep the string structure strong and have more surface area for the climbing plants tendrils to attach. Note: the plastic twine used was a terrible mistake and has since been removed. Thought to reduce rot with wet weather, it eventually began to fray lots of fragments of plastic. This was incredibly unfortunate and will never be used again.
Interms of varieties, the smaller growing cucmbers produced really well at the beginning of the season, grew quickly and were prolific. Next season I would experiment with miniature lebanese cucumbers to keep crispness and low seed count as the varieties used this season did produce a lot of seeds at maturity. Apple cucumber produced well and added variety. Peas planted between cucumbers produced a small amount and soon became smothered by vining cucumbers. Next season I would instead plant these in spring before cucumber to gain their nitrogen fixing qualities (aka relationship to N fixing bacteria in soil).
Tromboncino squash is what impacted this polycultures success the most. Due to previous experience in growing this plant in pots and keeping compact with unique fruits, it was chosen to accompany the cucumbers. However this had proven itself to be a learning curve. This heirloom variety of squash was incredibly vigourous and monsterous vine that quickly took over the entire bottom left quadrant of the garden, along with flowing over the fence line and into other beds. The upside being it was a tremendously prolific producer and there were many harvests. However these did not sell well at the markets due to their intimidating shape. They may work well in the veggie box system. Next season I will not be including this crop in the system due to it's copious growth habitat and will in the future dedicate it's own area for growth instead.
I would plant more flowers in the middle strip of the bed to increase diversity, along with pollinator acitivity to pollinate cucurbits. I would also like to experiment placing dill in between the rows for harvest and pollination once it readches maturity at flower.
Pest and disease pressure fluctuated in this polycrop. First being an influx of aphids on cucumber leaves midway through the season. This was managed under IPM plan, with mainly high pressure hose mechanical removal, along with hand squashing and leaving some populations for predator species. This eventually corrected itself. Late in the season, powdery mildew became present and eventually wiped out, along with smothering from the tromboncino squash, the smaller cucumber growing varieties. Next season, topical management with milk, apple cider vinegar, baking soda or particularly beneficial microbes will be assessed for use if this issue arised again.
Mini cucumbers performed really well at the farmers market, and will definitely be grown again. However tromboncino squash did not, so will be discontinued until a new use it found.
Tomatoes, Sunrise bumblebee Kings (Cert organic), Rupunzel Zealandia (Non organic), Yellow Pear Clarty Farms (Spray Free), Beefsteak Yates (Non organic), Roma seedlings, self seeded.
Beans, scarlet runner beans Kiwi Garden, Blue lake, Yates (Non organic)
Basil, Zealandia seedlings (Non organic)
Marigolds (Non organic purchased seedlings)
Was the polyculture successful? Mostly successful! This was based on the well-known companion planting of marigolds, basil and tomatoes, with the addition of climbing beans in between. As a whole, this polycrop worked really well together. It just needs a few adjustments and further studies on soil health.
Like the capsicums and eggplants, the tomatoes were sown very late in the season mid-late september, so when they were planted out in November they were relatively small seedlings. This impacted maturity and all tomatoes didn't fruit until late February - to April. This meant there was no harvest for Janurary and February farmers markets like initially planned. Near the end of March and April was when majority of the tomatoes ripened.
However the growth of all tomato plants, particularly those on the left side of the bed was underpined by a strange leaf curl, elongating and stunted fruit disease/disorder. The cause or actuality of this disease or disorder is unknown. We speculate is could have something to do with the soil in this area of the market garden site. Further soil testing will occur with chemical and heavy metal soil analysis in June. Results from these tests may help to give us factual evidence on what could be contributing to these unusual growth affects. Note that in our previous level 3 horticulture course we were presented with similar disorders in particular with tomatoes grown in this bed.
Basil performed really well and were very productive with good market value, marigolds grew strongly and provided diversity and pollinator support. Runner beans were the most challenging and under performing crop grown in this polyculture bed. The idea was that they would climb with the tomatos, however due to slow tomato growth and underestimation of the bean vine growth, these quickly got entagled with the tomatoes and it proved very hard to harvest from. In the future if keeping beans in this polycrop, they will require their own wooden steak or twine to grow up and not interefere with the tomatoes.
Some additions to this bed to increase polycrop diversity would be to add more edible flowers such as borage or more herbs such as parsley, thyme, spring onions, chives oregano or sage. Even small growing lettuces could be included, as well as radishes.
Pest and disease pressure, aside from the strange disorder mentioned above was minimal, there was some small amounts of leaf browning on right hand side tomatoes which was mechanically removed by hand, otherwise growth was strong and lush and not impacted by pests or disease. Ripening tomatoes were targeted by birds, specifically the large unripe beefsteaks. There was still an okay harvest in April with little protection from birds. More netting will be included next season.
Moving forward I would continue to use this polycrop, trying it in another bed in the garden site to see if the same tomatoe issues arrised. As well as including more species menioned above.
Lot's of learning were had during this exciting summer season. It was my first ever attempt and experimentation with market gardening in general, so there was a lot of ropes to learn, data to gather and mistakes and learn curves to be had. Not only that I wanted to push the boundaries and trial a polyculture, biodiversity focused gardening system. Going in blind and with beginners enthusiasm was a blessing in disguise as I wasn't afraid to trial new methods and in many ways wing it. This is what taught me the most and at the end of the season I have been left with so many wisdoms and learnings around the whole crop management and polyculture systems.
My biggest takeaway was the overall self management of this system, whilst this isn't ideal from a profitability standpoint, was that the small amounts of time each week I had available to spend at the garden, still a large amount of food was produced, with minimal pest and disease pressure, sizeable improvements in biodiversity and soil health. I wasn't having to spend additional time battling weeds, putting in fertilising imputs or spraying for pests and disease. In just one short season I could see the benefits in a diverse polycropping system and the ample amount of food produced, even when left to it's own devices. (This wasn't all sunshine and rainbows, as discussed at the end of this report, however it did prove the polyculture systems resilience, vs a monocropping system).
Also the biggest takeaway was to keep up to date with sowing and planting, as a lot of harvestable crops were left to go to seed and soil patches left bare post harvest due to a lack of harvesting and succession plan. This is something I will be steadfast in ensuring doesn't happen in the next seasons, with a firm and easy to follow crop plan set in place. I was able to experiment and see what crops worked well together in polycrops and what to adjust for next seasons (above ↑) and to see the additions of flowers being of huge benefit to insect biodiversity and ecosystem health in the garden. Something that I can now turn into a profit by using edible/cut flowers also.
Watering and irrigation systems need to be addressed, as watering over the summer season did have weak points during hot weeks where some plants wilted and show signs of dehydration stress. Otherwise overall plant cover did help with moisture retention. Assessing drip irrigation/overhead sprinkler systems for more efficient watering systems.
Successful polycropping gardens studies:
https://www.foodforest.com.au/assets/pdfs/analysisfood-garden.pdf
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/313038213_Successful_commercial_polycultures
https://www.thepolycultureproject.com/
https://livelightly.nz/inspiration/tamaki-urban-market-garden/
SPRING/SUMMER CROP PLANTING
Spinach, Bloomsdale Kings seed (Certified organic)
Cos Lettuce, Carls seeds (Spray free)
Bok choi (Non organic)
Spring onion Bunnings seedlings (Non organic)
Parsley curly and flat leaf Bunnign seedlings (Non organic
Alyssum, nasturium, calendula, self seeded (non organic seed origins)
Was the polyculture successful? Yes! This is probably the most successful polycropping bed yet. All species grew really well next to each other with minimal to no space pressure or over crowding. There was excellent layering and I managed to fit in 5 species in lines along with supporting flowers on the endcaps.
There has been no pest or disease pressure and all plants have grown smoothly with vigour and have fit well into the gaps. The spinach seeds used were limited on germination, with only 1/3 of the row having succesful germination and growth. This is likely to be of the old seed used.
Lettuces and bokchoi matured very quickly even in cooler weather, so this is a great productive option during the cooler months. Easy to harvest cos lettuce and bok choi by gently twisting and breaking off. New Seedlings can then be planted in their place.
This is a polycrop I will continue to use throughout the system. It is easy to replicate and harvest grown and can be experimented with a plethora of different spinach, lettuce, bokchoi, spring onion and herb varieties. Another mix could be:
radish
lettuce
bokchoi or spinach,
spring onion, garlic or chives
parsley or coriander
Whitloof/endive and chicory could also be implemented along with lambs lettuce and other greens.
Overall this proved to be a very successful and easy to adjust and implement polycrop that will be used continously throughout the system.
Cos lettuce - Carls seeds (Spray free)
Radish mix Kiwigarden seeds (Non organic)
Carrots - Scarlet Nantes Kings seeds (Non organic)
Beetroot- Kestrel F1 Kings Seeds (Non organic)
Calendula self seeded, snap dragons, alyssum (Non organic seedlings fromsummer)
Was the polyculture successful? Yes, with adjustments. Instead of next to the carrots, I would place the radish row in row 4 where the lettuce are as these quickly smothered growth of the carrots. However this could have been due to the varieties of radish I used which was a mix with large growing daikon in the mix. If I were to keep the radishes in this current row I would use a smaller growing radish variety such as 'french breakfast' to prevent over crowded and limiting carrot growth. Radishes and lettuces were ready quite early, making for a productive row and harvest.
Carrot and beetroot varieties used were strong contendors again, however much slower this time of year and took a lot longer to germinate and grow. I would next season experiment with using faster growing varieties such as baby beets and baby tender carrots for a quickly harvest. I did have to cut back leafy growth of radish mix to ensure the carrots were receiving enough light to grow.
I would also trial adding another row next to the lettuces in this current polycrop which could be rocket, spinach or endive for more diversity and productivity for harvest. I would also plan to plant out and sow carrots and beetroots a lot earlier than other crops and perhaps have radish growin in as a filler or smaller lettuces to get a crop out and allow the carrots and beets more light and time to establish before longer growing greens varieties are planted.
Pest and disease pressure has been minimal, there is a few holes in some leaves of lettuce and radish, but nothing to create a large impact or be of concern.
Overall this polycrop seems to work well, just needing some tweaking to ensure each species recieves enough light for optimal growth.
Silverbeet - rainbow lights - Zealandia (non organic)
Lambs lettuce (mâche) - Yates seeds (non organic)
Cauliflower - Zealandia mini brassicas (non organic)
Broccoli - Zealandia mini brassicas (non organic) + Natural lea seedlings (spray free)
Cabbage - Zealandia mini brassicas (non organic)
Mustard greens - Zealandia mini brassicas (non organic)
Lettuce - Carls cos lettuce (spray free freshly germinated seedlings)
Spinach - bloomsdale yates seeds (non organic) plant left from summer sowing
Was the polyculture successful? It is very early in this polycrops stage of growth and developement to make clear conclusions on it's successes, however so far growth is going well and there is a high level of diversity within this polycrop bed.
Instead of being in rows, each crop species is interlaced and woven in between one another so it will be interesting to see the success or failure due to spacing of this system. The lettuce in the centre seems to be growing well and growing faster than brassicas, which means there will be a harvest of the lettuce before the brasiccas reach maturity and overcrowd the lettuce.
Silverbeet and broccoli are slow growing and have not put on a lot of significant growht, same with the mustard greens. This indicates that these crops need to be planted out much earlier for a autumn/winter harvest
Lambs lettuce is a very small growing crop and has been scattered in between rows to act as a crop cover.
Over all, it is hard to judge the success of this polycropping bed, as it was planted a lot later than needed for autumn/winter harvest and growth is to juvenile to comment on its competition with surrounding crops.
Next season I would ensure to plant out silver beet and brassicas a lot earlier and look at using varieties I can get multiple harvests from such as side sprouting varieites of broccoli/cauliflower or kalettes. As well as silverbeet/perpetual spinach allowing for a continual harvest.
Peas - Mr fothergills snow pea seeds (non organic) Kings seeds Utrillo (non organic)
Broadbeans - Zealandia seedlings (non organic) Egmont seeds Hughey crimson (non organic)
Salvia, zinnia, corn flowers, snap dragons purchased seedlings (non organic)
Kale - Zealandia seedlings (non organic)
Was the polyculture successful? Simple and easy to implement. This bed was the easiest to set up due to it being only two main species of legumes, peas on one site of trellising and broadbeans on the other. Germination was a lot slower this year and I decided to get a head start by placing seedlings in between where seeds were sown for quicker harvest. The zinnia and salvia top end cap planted back in summer were still thriving even into the beginning of June to provide pollen and nectar for browsing pollinators. These would soon be replaced by corn flowers and more snap dragons when they completely die back.
There is also kale planted on the bottom endcap for some quick and easy harvests once they reach maturity. The main downside with this polycrop is that there is a lot less diversity than the other beds. There is a large gap in the middle of the trelissing that can be utilised. Possibly experimenting with long growing crops such as brussels sprouts, celery, leeks or miniature brassicas could be grown down the centre and harvested when ready. Leaf maintenance with brassicas would be the main concern with this concept, but it would be worth trialing.
Sprawling crops down the centre could also be utilised such as kōhihi New Zealand spinach, Red or crimson clover or even trialing beetroot and carrots down the centre as these take a lot longer to mature during winter also.
Even more winter flowers could be beneficial for biodiversity and insect life also, such as more cornflowers, snap dragons, borage or calendula.
It is too early in the crops growth to mention productivity and harvestability, hopefully these varieties are prolific producers and provide a good yield.
Overall this 'polycrop' needs to include a few more species to retain high diversity, but is otherwise very easy to implement and encourages high rates of nitrogen fixation with legume species planted, making this bed suitable for a variety of crops for the summe growing season there after.
Peas - Mr Fothergills non organic
Broad beans - Egmont seeds non organic
Red clover - Kings cert organic
Radish - Kings non organic
Coriander - Johnsons seeds non organic
Was the polyculture successful? The plan was to do more of a traditional green manure covercrop in this bed to increase fertility as suggested from covercropping systems. In the end it was decided that this is a food producing market garden space, especially that of a small growing system so it would be great to have a covercrop that was also harvestable.
Peas and broadbeans were chosen for their nitrogen fixing symbiosis with N fixing bacteria, along with red clover, which if left to flower could be used for a harvest and sold for it's medicinal properties. Radish was also included for quick germination, growth and harvest, as well as coriander.
It is too early in the growth and production of this cover crop/polycrop bed system to comment on it's success. However I am somewhat hoping and okay with this to be a really dense and possibly messy bed that's main purpose is to support soil health, but to also retain a harvest from.
So far there has been good germination, in neat rows. New Season I want to plant more densely and scatter seeds, broadcasting them wildly to fill in more surface area.
Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out in the next few months.
Crops grew very well, with successful germination and growth rates even in the cooler seasons
minimal pests and disease
soil health building
Some crops even reached maturity quickly, gaining harvests in June
Successful polycrops were found.
AUTUMN/WINTER PLANTING
Small harvests happened all throughout the season from the time of fruition and these were shared amongst friends family and my fellow students and tutor, as well as workmates. See above for a collection of small harvest had. These were all foraged and handpicked when ripe throughout the garden.
The main harvests occurred in January and February for the purpose of trialing Farmers Markets and when majority of crops had reached maturity and were at peak harvest timing.
The first harvest - January 13th
Both harvests were carried out the night before after sundown to prevent wilting from heat and sun exposure. This was a decision made mostly due to logistics as it was more practical to harvest on site away from home the night before, process at home and keep refridgerated for the market the following morning. Versus getting up at 4am and harvesting in the dark and rushing to get everything done.
Harvest took about 1 1/2 hours to complete, with four people harvesting at once.
Crops harvested:
- Beetroot
Easy to harvest, gently pulled from the bed and put in bunches of 4 -5 beets, tied with yarn and placed in chiller with leaves outside~ Sold out $5 bunch, 3 bunches
- Carrots
Easy to harvest, pulled gently from the bed and put in bunches of 10 - 12 carrots, tied with yarn and placed in chiller ~ Sold out $4 Bunch, 4 bunches
- Zuchini
Easy to pluck from plant and sell individually. Yellow variety was the only crop ready this time, kept in chiller with cucumbers ~ Sold okay, needed to be more volume and smaller tender fruits $1 - $2 each, 3 courgettes
- Cucumbers
Fairly easy to harvest, plucked from vine, snipped using needle nose secateurs , the plant was laden with small cucumbers this time of year, kept in chiller with zuchini ~ Sold really well and sold out 3/4 for $5, lots! Forgot to record number picked.
- Radishes
Relatively easy to harvest, got crowded out by carrots and beetroot, so there was only one bunch, became shadowed and leggy, kept in chiller, Will be planting in separate row next season ~ Only one bunch availble, but it did sell $4 bunch,
- Beans
Easy to pluck bush beans from plant, handful bunches tied with yarn and kept in chiller ~ Sold quickly $5 bunch, 2 bunches
- Lettuce
Should have cut and taken the entire heads of lettuces, but made it more laboursome by plucking individual leaves and creating a bagged lettuce mix. Some straight into bags and others into chilly bins. We realised that these needed some extra cleaning with a salad spinner due to aphid appearances. Lettuces were washed and spun 2x before bagging in sealable bags and kept in chilly bins ~ Bags became clouded when taken outside of chiller on market day which impacted their saleability, although they were large bags sold for $4 so this was affordable and good quantity, was left with 1/6 bags
- Spinach
Time consuming to pick as these were on the ends and crowded out by lettuces and each leaf was individually picked. Next season needs to be easier access and be able to pick/cut multiple leaves at a time, washed and bagged at home and kept in chiller ~ $4 bag, sold out. Same condensation happened.
-Rocket
Same as above, $4 bag, sold out
- Calendula
Sold in a tea mix with fresh lemon balm, sold well $4 bag
Over all, harvest looked like all of the above, picking, plucking, pulling and snipping and placed inside buckets or chiller bags with icepacks covered in teatowels to keep produce fresh. A wheel barrow was used for ease to get the loads to the car, parked less than 100m away in the Te Henui lodge carpark. The nights were mild and there was still plenty of light to harvest. Easy access to the garden and enough room for four people to be harvesting in the plot. It could be managed with 2 harvesting, but the extra hands made it so much easier.
The washing and chiller bags worked well to keep things fresh, however next time I would ensure all root crop leaves were kept fully inside th chiller instead of hanging outside and becoming wilted for the morning of. I decided not to wash the beets and carrots to give a more authentic look, however next time I could clean these to prevent the dirt drying on them and to make them look alot brighter and more appealing.
Weighing the bags, recording what was harvested and drying the greens more are also the main changes I would make for future harvests. As well as trialing different crop species such as heading lettuces that make it a lot easier to harvest.
More about the farmers markets below.
Second harvest - February 17th
This harvest took place just like the harvest above, after sun down the night before the farmers market. Listed below are the main differences in this harvest from that above
Beets + carrots the same, no worries, bigger in size and less to harvest, same prices as above
Courgettes were a mix of small and large marrows, which struggled to sell this time of year due to the abundance at other stalls. Marrows were formed due to missing optimal harvest window and ripe fruits being lost in the vigourous heirloom vines.
Zuchetta - tromboncino squash, this was a new addition to the market. Easy enough to harvest, with a huge abundance in fruits, large and small. I thought that these would be a unique selling point and an intriguing offering at the market. However they turned out to be too intimating to customers so they struggled to sell. ~ $1 -$4 each, probably only sold 7 or 8 out of about 20 fruits all up. I probably wouldn't bring these to the market again unless I marketed them differently and picked them earlier
Golden nugget pumpkins - great addition to the market, easy to harvest, good size ~ $2 - $4 sold out
Parsley bunches were sold, easy to harvest and sold okay with one bunch out of 3 left ~ $4
Basil easy to harvest and were bagged straight away to retain freshness ~ sold well, $4 bag
Edible flowers I had a customer come specifically for these. $4 bag, sold out. Tedious to pluck small borage blooms and calendula but not too intensive. Also needed a lot to fill a bag
Did not sell any lettuce this time as it had gone past it's prime and became bitter. This was due to a lack of succession sowing. something that would be changed next season to ensure a steady supply
Spinach and rocket same harvest principles and methods as above and sold well $4 bag ~ sold out
Beans and cucumbers same as above, not a lot of cucumbers due to the vines being smothered by the zuchetta and slowing right down on production. Beans were just coming in on new plants this time of year ~ both sold out $1 cucumbers and $4 beans
AUTUMN/WINTER Harvests:
Autumn harvests are just beginning and these crops will be distributed and shared amoung friends, family, work colleagues, WITT students and staff and possibly a café of friends and food banks.
All crops are relatively easy to harvest, with lettuces, radishes, spring onion, spinach and bok choi being ready for harvest this time of year in June.
Carrots, beets, peas and beans are still coming in and won't be ready for harvest until the weather warms up again in september - october.
I am pretty happy with the progression of the garden this time of year and the lettuce, radish and bok choi varieties all grew really quickly and will defintiely be kept in these poly cultures.
Next spring/summer season planning will commence soon.
Straight from the garden!
Fully loaded barrow and chillers full of fresh produce
Boy friend salad spinner duty
Are you SURE this is the last bag?
Market prep + Monty Python
Bundled up!
My most successful market, selling out of 90% of produce, profit $144
A little less succesful, but worth it for the chats and fun had with the unusual produce, made a little less *$83 profit (estimated)
Farmers Market Process:
Harvest from garden the night before, just after sun down. Not too far, 5 - 7 minute drive into town and easy to park, load up and leave.
Go home, wash, spin, dry and bag all greens, tie up bunches, store in chillers and fridge.
Have all baskets, table clothes, and supplied ready in garage and by car ready for early wake up
Have money float ready and any supplies packed ready for morning
6.45am wake up, load up car and 4 minute drive to Huatoki Plaza for farmers market.
Set up canopy and table
Start on display, arranging baskets, produce, stacking nicely, keeping items in chiller until market opens at 9am
Write up and label and price all products
Let the selling begin! 9am - 12pm Smiling and chatting to customers, taking change, thanking, and selling produce
Packing up, gifting any left over produce, puting away table and canopy, helping out other stall holders
Drive home and pack up
Count float and profits
CHANGES: Next season I need to ensure I am recording the amounts and weights of what is harvested and including these and recording the data in a spread sheet and weighing up income vs expenses. Keeping a market diary and marking what I have sold will also be a great addition and allow me to track progress and profitiability.
'SUN AND SOIL' was the name of the garden I decided to roll with for the farmers markets. It was simple and had a nice ring to it.
I kept the designs very authentic with a 'home grown' look that appealed to the organic and quaint theme that would attract my target audience of those looking for soil to table organic and homely feel food. Like they had gone and picked it themselves from their garden
Handdrawn signs and fonts were used
'Roots' 'Shoots' and 'Fruits' were used to section the offerings on the table, rhyming adding to the personality of the stall.
I wanted the focus to be on the produce, so these were stacked nicely and grouped together on the table and in baskets, which added to the overall hand crafted feel.
Flowers were included on the table, particularly sunflowers which are bright and cheery and also matched well with the cute patch work table cloth.
Minimal plastic was used, only for the bagged greens and herbs to keep sustainable and therefore relay this natural look and sustainable ethos to the customer
Lots of bright colours and different array of produce, paired with the table cloth and baskets made an all rounded wholesome display that attracted customers looking for vibrant and homegrown, natural and organic produce
Marketing was kept minimal and only displayed on the farmers market attendance posts
Otherwise everything else was by word of mouth and in person.
I would have liked to have put more time into creating visual collateral for the stall, using my graphic design background, but overall happy with the organic look of the hand lettering, and authentic embelishments with the table cloth and baskets
Next season I would look at possibly changing the name of the stall, creating a brand and marketing strategy and designing the collateral that could be re used at markets and labels printed for produce. Starting social media accounts and possibly a website for more marketing and public reach. Begin an email list too.
Can polycropping systems work for the farmers market selling business model? Yes, but on a much larger scale operation than I am running at this time. Polycropping means more species, more variety and uniqueness to offer your audience, it's about revealing to your customers the soil restoration and regenerative journey you are on and the quality produce you are producing.
To be a successful stall at the farmers market you need volume, this is a major visual draw card to customers and allows them to see the scale and effort put into producing a large crop of produce. It conveys abundance and reassured them you can feed them and their families and other customers. Due to the subsequent smaller volumes, especially on a small scale that polycropping brings, it becomes more difficult to provide this sheer volume in comparison to monoculture market garden bed opperations that produces volume on time for a large harvest. Polycropping can be sporadic in harvest windows and overall there is less volume per crop unless planted out in multiple beds.
A successful farmers market polycropping garden would need to be on a large scale with 10+ beds to meet volume requirements of crops whilst maintaining a rich polycropping method that supports soil health and encompasses a high level of biodiversity, providing this as a unique selling point. Farmers markets instead of being used on a regular basis could then be used during the peak of seasons with lots of produce to introduce the farm operation to the customers and encourage them to purchase from and visit the farm for another type of business model such as CSA and veggie box subscriptions/restaurant orders, discussed further below.
In my case, whilst the farmers market was a good experience and small profits were made, this was not in contrast to the expenses put into the garden. It is obvious with such a small yield for the volume needed to make money at farmers markets, that the expenses of the garden would well out weight any small profits made. I would still continue to do farmers markets in peak season with excess produce available to reach new audiences and meet new customers for them to sign up to vegetables boxes. I think it is a great place to meet your community and customer base and get people interested, however to make the polycropping system financially viable for farmers markets, I would need to scale up significantly, and for now this isn't an option with the space I have at the WITT gardens.
I believe to have a successful and profitable polycropping system, like the garden itself with ample diversity, polycropping market gardens also need a polycrop, aka a diverse income. There are evidence of successful polyculture markets gardens such as O.M.G Organic Market Garden in Auckland using the CSA veggie box subscription method and seedling and compost sales, as well as education for profit success. In Bulgaria, there has been an almost 10 year study on the success of polyculture market gardens at Balkan ecology project and gardens. They have found profit and success in annual vegetable production, plant nursery production, courses and training.
What is CSA?
CSA stands for Community Support Agriculture and is a system based on the community paying a subscription to support a good cause, such as a polyculture garden that is rejuvenating and regenerating the land and ecosystems and in exchange for their subscripted donation, they receive a veggie box, seedlings or products from the garden in return. This is a well suited to a polycropping market garden as it, from the beginning understands and is supporting a regerative horticulture movement and a project that heals the land and environment, instead of soley being relied on for a dedicated amount of vegetables and large volume each week. The customer of a CSA understands that they are supporting the project and the livelihoods of the farmers and for that in return they get this satisfaction along with a community, a relaxing natural space to visit and high quality, nutrient dense produce in return. For the most part, it is clear to the customer that there will be fluctuations in amounts of produce throughout each season and they have compassion and lenience in this.
O.M.G Visited this May 2024 on Earthworkers course, such a beautiful place to be and incredible to have a thriving, productive garden right off the street in NZ's largest city.
O.M.G weekly vegetable CSA, helped with harvest in Autumn, they are producing 40 boxes a week
Balkan ecology project formed The Polyculture Project, 9 year study on the success of polyculture systems for restoring the soil, feeding people nutrient dense food and regenerating habitats for local species.
Outstanding results and an on going project. Main consensus was the the polyculture produced more volume of food vs mono cropping systems but required more labour. Soil health increased each year, same with biodiversity with ample species returning and arriving to the site. Find out more here: https://www.thepolycultureproject.com
Polyculture research and resources:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/earth-and-planetary-sciences/polyculture
https://www.beefresearch.ca/blog/polycrop-potential-12-tips-for-using-mixed-forage-crops/
https://www.agrivi.com/blog/polyculture-production-system-for-sustainable-farming/
https://www.permaculture.org.uk/research/great-grow-experiment
I think this CSA/vegetable box subscription would be a much better suited business model for my polycropping market garden vs farmers markets. It means I can set a cap on the number of people I am growing for, ensuring I have enough each week to provide for them and them understanding this can fluctuate between seasons. It means I can bettr plan and manage crops and the beds, ensuring there is a good crop rotation and succession and not having the pressure to produce large volumes of produce of a particular type and risking not selling everything at the market. I can then plan according to each bed and how many crops and when they will be ready for harvest. This is much better suited to my smaller growing operation.
Some unique produce items such as jerusalem artichoke and special herbs can be in high demand from private chefs and fine dining, so I could also look at taking on small orders from chefs of cafes or allowing them to come and pick what they need as another source of income.
Adding seedlings and microgreens to the operation would also help with profit and income increasements. I would first need to install a green house for optimal propagation. This is something to look into further down the track.
Another form of income to diversify and make the most of the natural space is to run workshops and courses for the public to learn about biodiverse polycropping systems and biology first gardening. Running these courses would be a fantastic oppportunity to educate people of restorative gardening practices, increase revenue and introduce new customers to CSA and the farm. This would be a course on how they could implement these practices at home in their own gardens to feed themselves, friends and family and support local biodiversity.
Another opportunity if the garden were to expand would be to offer cut flowers, dahlias, zinna, sunflowers etc or to even offer a nice space for picnics, small gatherings/events and garden photography.
The opportunities available are ample and there are multiple ways to make calculated decisions and set up effiecient methods of income from the polycropping garden system.
That being said, it will take a lot of trial and error and the nature of the dense plantings will mean a lot of ebbing and flowing. I look forward to exploring these as new options in the future and further researching methods of productivity and profitability in the polyculture gardening space.
Oxalis Bulbs
Buttercup
Wandering dock
Nightshade
Galivant soldier
Kaikuyu
Faux carrot weed
Broad leaf
+ Many more...
For pest, disease and weed management I decided to adhere to Integrative management systems such as IPM, IDM and IWM, this aligns directly and complies with OFNZ (BioGro) organic standards. This means minimising organic sprays, zero use of chemical control, focusing on the health of the soil and plants to create a symbiotic system resistant to pests, disease and weeds.
It involves a farmers biggest asset which is observation. Observing what is happening in the garden and using these observations to inform decisions on the management of these pests, diseases and weeds. Finding warning signs and seeing how the situation eventuates rather than going straight ahead and using chemical control or any other drastic and potentially harmful methods. Itis about assessing and doing the least harm as possible whilst letting the system support it self as much as possible and a focus on preventative methods.
Below is the methods I have used this season and can incorporate in the future if needed:
Hand removal/squishing
High pressure hose removal
Plant or leaf removal, removing affected/invested plants
Biological control via increasing plant and flower species diversity to invite predatory insects, as well as leaving some pest populations as food and host subjects or bringing in predatory eggs via bioforce.
Soil and plant health, microbial support, soil health protection via plant diversity and roots in soil
Hygiene of tools, disinfecting and cleaning in between each use
Traps, pitfall, stick traps, pheromone traps
Observation: Monitoring health of crops, using knowledge of pest life cycles, record keeping by capturing data on times of year, species and crops affected etc
(Certified organic) Chemical control at the absolute last resort, this is something I want to avoid at all costs and instead use all of the above along with microbial support, neem granules/oil in soil vs foliar, using soap sprays or natural options found here:
Plant or leaf removal, removing affected/invested plants
Focus on soil health as listed here: to boost plant health and prevent disease
Topical treatments such as microbes, organic milk, baking soda and organic solutiosn (seaweed, worm castings etc)
Ensuring an efficient watering system is in place to prevent plant stress
Hygiene of tools, disinfecting and cleaning in between each use
Observation: Monitoring health of crops, using knowledge of disease life cycles, record keeping by capturing data on times of year, species and crops affected etc
Allowing enough air flow and sunlight into garden
Thermal removal with flame weeder
Broad forked once off to remove stubborn perennial weeds
Hand removal, via pulling or use of hand tools on a weekly basis
Polycropping and out competing weeds
NO chemical sprays will ever be used for weed control in market garden site
Seeds, varieties, transplants and crop management 3.3
Plan to trial alternatives
A documented plan and data capturing of what crop varieties work best on the site will be created. Keeping track of what varieties are used in what season, their performance, weed pressure and pest pressure tolerance will all be recorded. This will give a foundation of knowledge and data log of what works best in the site. A plan then to trial alternatives to species that have not performed well will be undertaken. I plan to create a heavily diverse market garden and will be regularly trialing a variety of different species and will be recording them to see what has performed best.
Seeds, seedlings and vegetative propagative materials
Certified organic seed where possible has been used and will continue to be used. Seed companies such as Kings organic range, Koanga and Setha's seeds provide compliant varieties of crops. This season, I have used seeds from my small seedbank that I had on hand to use up these recourses and to test what works best in the site for this season in particular to polycropping. In the following seasons make the full switch to certified organic seeds and seedlings and where this is not possible for certain varieties such as hybrids, I will seek written consent to continue with these crops that cannot be found organic. I will endeavor to grow all my crops from seed and look for organic compliant retailers when short. Please refer to organic compliance list for companies here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1BF2cMTn1GEdk6QmhKamrco-lHGn1vJ7JDRiCXTwMB4s/edit?usp=sharing Open pollinated, organically grown seeds and seedlings will remain top priority with minor exceptions in seeds that can only be sources non certified. However these seeds will never been GM and not contain prohibited materials.
Seedlings
Seedlings will be grown in BioGro certified potting mixes. This season I have used Tui's organic performance seed raising mix with reasonable success. I will continue to research the best organic compliant seed raising media. See alternatives here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1BF2cMTn1GEdk6QmhKamrco-lHGn1vJ7JDRiCXTwMB4s/edit?usp=sharing I aim to innoculate my seedraising media with beneficial fungi and microorganisms with homemade composts and vermicast. This will be sent off for written approval before use for compliance.
Thermal Sterilsation
Not yet required.
Pollination
No intention of bringing in beehives, especially those that contain prohibited treatments. My main goal for pollination is instead to infuse the garden site with diverse pollinator friendly flowering crops and created habitats for these natural pollinators to thrive.
Seed and Plant material
If I am to sell or collect seeds, these crops will be grown under organic management for one generation for annuals, two growing periods or 12 months for perennials. This will ensure they can be sold or advertised as certified organic seed and plant material for use in my garden or to be sold for revenue.
Treated timber
Treated timber will not be used on site.
Weed Management 3.4
Weed management plan
See weed management plan here:
Weeds will be controlled via integrative weed management plan, with zero use of chemical herbicides. An integration of physical, biological, cultural and mechanical practices will be used.
Biological control
Biological control of weeds will be looked into in the future. This is still a new weed control management option in New Zealand and extensive research is being undertaken. For example the red spider mite (Tetranychus linteariu) to control gorse and the Honshu white admiral butterfly (Limenitis glorifica) to control Japanese honeysuckle. You can see an extensive list here: https://www.landcareresearch.co.nz/discover-our-research/biodiversity-biosecurity/weed-biocontrol/projects-agents/biocontrol-agents/ My aim first is to create an ecosystem that naturally invites a diverse range of insects, fungi and microrganisms that will attribute to biologial control. Biological weed control agents such as this extensive list in the above link will also be researched and looked into in the future.
Mechanical and thermal weed control
Flame weeding has been used in the site and will continue to be used as an effective form of thermal weed control. Initial mechanical removal of soil was done via broadforking and hand removal to eliminate as much perennial weeds as possible. Hand and handtool weeding will be continued to be used, aswell as gentle broad forking. Hand hoe weeder along the paths will be used also.
Plastic and reflective mulches
Tarping use will be considered for future use and re-used and disposed of correctly.
Mulches
An on site wood mulch was used for pathways. This was a mix of tree varieties on WITT grounds. Future use of mulches will need written approval for future.
Herbicides
Chemical synthetic herbicides Will NEVER be used.
Solarisation
Will be considered for use if difficult perennial weeds arise in the future. Consent will be needed.
Pest and Disease Management 3.5
Pest management plan
See pest and disease management plan here:
Pests and disease will be controlled via integrative pest and disease management plan, with zero use of chemical pesticides and fungicides. An integration of physical, biological, cultural and mechanical practices will be used. Pest and disease management on my site will be dedicated to ensure plant and soil health are optimised and maintained. A robust, healthy soil will create robust and healthy plants, so ensuring plant and soil health through practices mentioned above and in the plan, as well as crop production standard. Encouragement of a natural balance via not completely eradicating pest and disease populations will be mean that their natural predators can thrive and control their populations naturally. My goal will to create a supportive environment for these beneficial predatory species to thrive.
Resistant varieties
Pest and disease resistant varieties will be regularly trialed. All species of crop varieties used on site's data will be recorded to keep track of their success or demise and their resistance to pest and disease. Identifying strong crop varieties will be paramount and incorporating these into polycropping guilds that support each other will be undertaken to improve pest and disease resistance.
Preventative management
Crop management systems will be managed to ensure crop and soil health is maintained and regenerated to reduce likely hood of pests and disease. Having diverse polycropping systems with roots in the soil, a strong water management plan, crop rotation and nutrient management practices will be adhered to to ensure optimal health of soil and plants to reduce pest and disease pressure.
Habitats
Piles of sticks, leaves and natural mulched areas will be installed and created around the site to create natural habitats for beneficial predatory species. 'Bug hotels' will be created. *Biological control of pests will be an integral part of my IPM system, whether intentionally releasing specific predator species via BioForce species or naturally encouraging these species with leaving some pests for them to consume and creating a habitat with flower species, plants and brown areas of leaves, mulches etc.
Mechanical controls
Physical traps such as traps, sticky traps, pheromone traps, lures and barriers will be used when necessary. Physical control via high pressure hose spraying, hand removal or squishing of pests will also be used for pest instances.
Permitted materials
Refer Appendix B
Restricted materials
Refer Appendix B
Prohibited materials
Synthetic pesticides and herbicides will never be used.
Thermal sterilisation
Not yet required.
Harvesting , Packing, storage and transport 3.6
Harvesting of crops has not yet commenced, this will be evaluated in later reports.
System Operations have been evaluated via a system plan found here on the Site Analysis page.
Requirements of the Standards
Harvesting
Containers, gloves, harvesting equipment, and machinery used for harvesting certified crops should be dedicated to organic use only. If machinery is also used for harvesting conventional crops then it must be cleaned according to a BioGro approved procedure prior to entering the certified area. The cleaning must ensure that:
certified produce can not be contaminated; and
plant material and soil from a conventional property are not brought onto the certified
Property.
Currently only hand plucking and small secateurs, as well as buckets and chiller bags have been used for harvest. All tools and gloves thoroughly cleaned before use. All greens gentle washed and no cross over with produce outside of my organic compliance site will occur. I must be mindful that I am close to neighbouring gardens that could cause contamination.
Staff awareness
All harvesting staff must be aware of the need to maintain the integrity of certified organic produce and following agreed procedures to ensure this.
All those members helping me harvest have been made aware that this is an organic site and no contamination can occur. They are given tools and gloves to use to ensure this.
Burning of crop residues
Burning of crop residues can only be done with prior written approval from BioGro. Approval will only be granted in extreme cases, such as for disease control.
Won’t be burning crop residues.
Cleaning
Any washing, packing, and processing of crops must be in:
equipment dedicated to organic crops; or
equipment that has been cleaned according to BioGro approved procedures and cleaning materials since the last use for uncertified crops or crops of different certification status.
Crops currently being washed at home in kitchen sink where cross contamination could occur. Need dedicated wash and pack room to avoid any contamination.
12
If cleaning by hand is insufficient, then air-blasting, water-blasting, steam cleaning, or flushing with potable water, will be required. Where necessary flushing with a sacrificed portion of the crop may also be required
Washing water
Water used for washing produce must be of potable quality.
Using home mains filtered water of high quality
Grain drying
If grain requires drying to bring the moisture content below acceptable levels then this should be done immediately after harvest, with indirect heat.
The moisture content must be kept below these levels during storage to ensure food safety requirements are met.
Nil.
g. Storage
Produce in storage must be protected from contact with all prohibited and restricted materials Where uncertified produce or produce of different certification status is also stored there then:
containers must be clearly marked as organic with the certification status of the produce; and
segregation from uncertified produce or produce of a different certification status must be
guaranteed; and
staff must be aware of the organic status and the certification status of the produce and
following agreed procedures to ensure the above.
All produce was collected in clean buckets and chiller bins that were dedicated for organic produce only. No cross over from conventional produce occurred.
Permitted pest control materials
The following pest control methods are permitted for packing and storage facilities:
high pressure water;
controlled atmosphere, e.g. airtight silo with carbon dioxide or nitrogen;
quick-freezing;
heat treatment; and
forced air circulation.
Restricted pest control materials
The use of pyrethrum is restricted and must have prior written approval by BioGro. The use of permitted pest controls above must be fully explored before the use of pyrethrum can be considered. Pyrethrum products used can not contain the synergist piperonyl butoxide.
Rodent control
Prior approval must be obtained from BioGro for use of chemical/synthetic materials. This must be by the use of bait stations, and the bait stations must be outside food handling areas.
IPM has been used for pest control, with the use of hand removal and high pressure water hose blasting.
k. Transportation
During any transport of produce away from the certified area its integrity must be protected:
Where there is a risk of airborne contamination then containers must be sealed or covered
or transported in enclosed or curtain-sider vehicles.
No risk of contamination as I am sole trader and transporter so no other produce will be in the same vehicle at the same time as my organically produced produce is.
Containers must be clearly marked as organic, and labelled with the grower’s name and BioGro
number, and the name and organic status of the produce.
Need to label containers. Not yet achieved status
Segregation from uncertified produce and produce of a different status must be guaranteed.
Awareness of other produce will paramount at all times, keeping organically produced produce from my site separate at all times.
Drivers and staff involved in loading and unloading must be aware of the importance of the
organic integrity of the produce.
Drivers have been informed of the importance of our organically produced produce, ensuring that there is to be no damage or cross contamination.
l. Parallel production
Where parallel harvesting, storage and transport occurs special attention must be directed to:
The identification of certified produce to distinguish it from produce that is uncertified or of
different certification status using such things as different colour bin cards.
The separation distances between certified (including between produce of different status)
and uncertified produce.
The keeping of records to enable traceability.
Staff awareness of the need to maintain the integrity of the certified produce.
Not in use just yet.
m. Packaging
Packaging must:
be materials that will prevent contamination of the product;
use compliant labelling;
protect the contents from damage; and
optimise the ongoing quality of the produce.
Currently using new sealable zip lock bags for washed greens, twine ties for bundles of root crops. Compliant labeling, not yet certified organic so not included in label. Bags and chilly bins protect from damage and optimise the ongoing quality and freshness of the produce.
Packaging must comply with the requirements of Module 14 Distribution Standard Section 4.5.1.
n. Distribution and retail
Licensees responsible for distribution and/or retailing of their own produce must ensure that the produce is correctly labelled in compliance with Module 3 Certification System sections 4.3.1, 4.4.1, 4.5, 7.8, and Module 14 Distribution Standard section 4.8.2.
Do I still believe polycropping systems and methods of growing can be successful and profitable? In many ways yes. There is still a lot of grooves in terms of efficiency to smooth out in the world of polycropping edible crops, as it does throw in extra elements of complication compared to traditional 1 species market gardening beds but this is actually what makes it an unedianbly beneficial system for growing and regerating land and ecosystems. I do suspect it would require a very large operation to meet certain requirements and quantities for scaling, but this is based on the monoculture mindset, which we have all be conditioned to be buying and eating. The same crops, in mass, all year round.
Where as polycultures provide an opportunity for a paradigm shift in the way we grow and eat. It gives the priviledge of supporting and enhancing biodiversity, regerating soils, creating nutrient dense, high quality food and provides us with a tranquil green space to be a part of, providing peace and stress relievement. Picture yourself visiting the farm that you buy your broccoli from each week at the supermarket, you go and for miles all you see is masses of brassica plants, with the flutter of of white butterflies bouncing around. Turns out you showed up during the spray day regime, there's people in the distance dressed tip to toe in PPE and all masked up, spraying your favourite broccoli plants. VS You attend an open day for your local polyculture and syntropic market garden, you arrive, you instantly feel in awe and relaxed by the expanse of jungle-like plantings, a beautiful green space to be around in. Kids can run around and you don't have to worry about them touching or eating anything toxic, everything is certified organic and covered with beneficial microbes for our gut. There's flowers galore, the buzz of bees and gentle monarch butterflies dancing about. There's rich bird song, and an abundance of plants, natives and stunning polycrops of fascinating different crops. You get to explore the green space and pick your own fresh vibrant produce. Which sounds better to you? I sure know which I'd prefer. And sure these are dramatised anecdotes, however conventional monocultures vs organic multispecies, especially polycultures are very black and white, visiting each of these spaces is like night and day.
Polycultures present the potential to create beautiful green spaces for us to enjoy, which can also be a succesful addition to annual crop production, increasing profitability and providing a platform for education. Polyculture systems stand as soil and ecosystem restoration projects. To me, this is what they are first and foremost, and their productivity is just a bonus to rejuvenating our precious soils. I believe polyculture are a case of lots of little, lots of little farms supporting the community with regenerative horticulture practices. There is a lot of potentials with a diverse range of business model and profitability options for polyculture systems and I believe they can be a succesful business venture, especially if there restoration benefits are capitalised.
I am grateful for this experience with experimenting in polycropping and while there are a few hills that need to be climbed with complexity and time and effort and the potential and efficacy of polculture systems is only at the beginnnig of being studied and explored, I look forward to the future of polycultures in both commerical and home garden implementations. I will always include this way of planting and growing of crops in my own home garden and hope to spread the word and help to implement these techniques and options learnt in my career in horticulture.