This objective will speak on the properties of the tides and waves of our earth's oceans, as well as the many categorizations within both, starting with the latter. An ocean wave is a disturbance that travels through the medium of water in the form of energy, moving in a repetitive circular motion. The way this energy moves through the water changes depending on the ratio of the wave's size, also known as wavelength, to the total depth of the medium. This ratio lying at different points is how scientists categorize different waves, and how they determine where these waves are found. Starting far from land are deep water waves, being categorized as such due to the total depth of the water being longer than one-half of the energy's wavelength. Any common ocean swells are deep water waves and can go for miles not touching the basin's bottom one time. When deep water waves start to approach a coastline they turn into transitional waves, categorized by one-half of their wavelength being more than the depth of the water they reside in. Another name for this type of wave is the peaking wave because this is the part in a wave's lifespan where it reaches its highest point. Finally, when the depth of the water is less than one-twentieth of a wave's length, it will become a shallow water wave. These waves are also called breaking waves and have multiple conditions to be formed by, but a general rule of thumb is if the wave gets too tall and the top starts to move faster than the bottom is when it will break (Wave Energy and Wave Changes with Depth). There is more to talk about with these waves later, especially with how the coastline itself is involved, but how these waves move in the first place is also important. This energy obviously needs some kind of source, and this information alongside the principles of wave movement is paramount to understanding this force. There are many different sources of waves, such as capillary waves from the wind, tidal waves from the gravity of the earth and other celestial bodies, and even seismic waves from the movements of tectonic plates (Why does the ocean have waves?). If these sources of energy push or pull hard enough in one direction over a long period of time, a wave train can form. Wave trains are simply a series of identical waves all moving in the same direction, with the same period, height, and wavelength. When these trains start to hit the bottom of a basin, they ride up on the new friction and decrease their wavelength while simultaneously increasing their height. This also causes their circular motion to shift sideways and breaks the wave as the top of it shifts horizontally, as this is the transitioning force behind deep waves becoming shallow waves (Miracosta Oceanography 101). However, interaction with the coastline isn't the only way these wave trains can change properties. Ocean waves of similar or different frequencies can and often do interact as well, forming completely new phenomena in the process. Interference between waves can be both constructive and destructive depending on the wavelengths of two different conjoining energy forces. The former is when two meeting waves have matching frequencies and crests, this causes the waves to add their forces together into a single more powerful wave. The latter interference is the opposite in both ways, occurring when waves of differing frequencies and crests interact. This causes both waves to cancel out into a wave weaker than the two waves individually (5.2 Constructive and Destructive Interference). These interfering forces and many others can cause new ocean phenomena all on their own due to the motion of energy. These occurrences take the form of waves and have their own categorization depending on cause and location. One unique wave is the rogue wave which is formed by the previously mentioned constructive interference. While only lasting a few minutes at most even in open water, these waves are the largest of the non-seismic waves (What is a rouge wave?). Seiche waves on the other hand are far less common and found in enclosed basins such as the great lakes. These waves are formed when wave energy from the wind or seismic event forms on a body of water and bounces off adjacent walls repeatedly for days at a time (What is a seiche?). The next two unique waves are the result of natural disasters, the tsunami likely being the most well-known and feared. These are colossal seismic wave trains formed by movements between tectonic plates that can cross entire oceans. While the actual waves aren't that high, the sheer amount of water behind them is what floods entire towns in minutes (Tsunamis). The last type of unique wave is easily the most dangerous for property and life alike and is caused by coastal hurricanes. Storm surge occurs when the sea level quickly rises to an unnatural level, sometimes reaching a 30ft difference from normal. Similarly to tsunamis, this water rise can flood out entire coastal communities, but storm surge can last much longer than the giant wave, adding to its lethality (Storm Surge Overview). To end this off on a better note, there is actually one more type of wave in its own category due to its uniqueness. This wave does not lie on the surface of the water and is almost invisible even when submerged. Internal waves are formed within the ocean at gaps where water salinity and depth are different, and form based on the topography of the ocean floor. When energy meets an obstacle such as a ridge or underwater mountain, it moves up or down alongside it, disturbing the water and creating a wave (What is an internal wave?). The gravity of the sun, moon, and earth also has an effect on these waves, the same force that controls the ocean's tides.
The tides are the other side of the coin to waves of large influences originating from the ocean, and while not as complex this world would not be the same without them. Starting with their formation, as previously mentioned it has to do with the pull of the moon and the rotational force of the earth, with the sun playing a part as well. The two main forces contest with each other over influence over the water, causing the level of water to be higher in some areas and lower in others (Stanly). Thankfully there is no guesswork in determining where these tide levels are found on the earth. The science of it lies almost entirely in our moon and has brought forth two categorizations for the tides it brings. The first categorization is spring tides (no relation to the seasons), which are areas where the tides are at their highest point. These tides line up to whichever side of the earth the moon is closest to, however, this also mirrors to the side the moon is farthest from. This is because the side farthest from the moon is where the earth's rotational force is strongest, and the earth's force resisting the moon's force causes the water to pile up and bring a high spring tide. The other tidal categorization is the neap tide, which is functionally the opposite of the earth's spring tides. These tides bring low water levels due to being perpendicular to the moon's position, the places where both the earth's rotational force and the moon's gravitational pull are the weakest. Because spring tides are always perpendicular to the moon, it means that there are two mirrored areas that are always under a neap tide, just like its counterpart (What are spring and neap tides?). The movement of the tides is fully bound to the movements of the celestial bodies around our planet, however, the coastline that these tides hit also has an effect on their frequency of appearance. Different places on earth experience these tides in different ways, and monthly tidal cycles consisting of varying patterns will resolve depending on where you are. Starting with semi-diurnal tides, this cycle will almost always bring two high tides in one day spaced apart by about twelve hours and twenty-five minutes, being the most common on the east coast of the United States. A small note before explaining the other two cycles is that they can interchange throughout a tidal month, so one twenty-four-hour period may be semi-diurnal while the next day's period is mixed. Speaking of mixed cycles, this type will also bring two high tides in a twenty-four-hour period. However, both the two high tides and two low tides will be of unequal height, and they are most commonly found on the west coast of the United States. Finally, we have diurnal tidal cycles which will only bring a single high tide during a twenty-four-hour and fifty-minute time period. These cycles will usually only appear in enclosed basins such as the Gulf of Mexico (Tide Patterns and Currents). Speaking of basins, the shape of one also has a large effect on any tide that resides within it. The intensity of a given tide shifts depending on the coastline it hits, and different areas have wildly different results. For example, estuaries that funnel out of the ocean will have an extreme difference between their low and high tide water levels. Conversely, open ocean islands without a large landmass will barely see a difference between their low and high tides, often under a foot. Existing low water levels in an inlet or bay can also block intense tidal changes despite being connected to the ocean, with tidal rivers also having a similar effect (Tides and Water Levels). This is everything oceanography-wise that needs to be said about tides, however, I'd like to pull the conversation to a more environmental look at things. As someone who often looks into green methods of existing for humans, I feel it should be mentioned how the tides can generate green electricity. The natural rise and fall of the tides create motion as you know, and this motion can be utilized to power physical generators, specifically in constricting areas with fast water flow. In addition to wave and current energy, tides could be a great source of energy without harming our planet (Tidal Energy).
Cited Sources:
"Wave Energy and Wave Changes with Depth", Manoa, N/A, https://manoa.hawaii.edu/exploringourfluidearth/physical/waves/wave-energy-and-wave-changes-depth
"Why does the ocean have waves?", NOAA, N/A, https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/wavesinocean.html#:~:text=on%20the%20horizon.-,Waves%20are%20created%20by%20energy%20passing%20through%20water%2C%20causing%20it,across%20an%20entire%20ocean%20basin.
Miracosta Oceanography 101, "Breakers and Wave Trains", LibreTexts, February 14th, 2021, https://geo.libretexts.org/Bookshelves/Oceanography/Oceanography_101_(Miracosta)/10%3A_Waves/10.04%3A_Breakers_and_Wave_Trains
"5.2 Constructive and Destructive Interference", UConn Physics, N/A, https://www.phys.uconn.edu/~gibson/Notes/Section5_2/Sec5_2.htm
"What is a rouge wave?", NOAA, N/A, https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/roguewaves.html
"What is a seiche?", NOAA, N/A, https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/seiche.html#:~:text=Seiches%20are%20standing%20waves%20with,two%20minutes%20to%20two%20hours).
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"What is an internal wave?", SJSU, N/A, https://mlml.sjsu.edu/physoce/internal-waves-in-monterey-bay/#:~:text=What%20is%20an%20internal%20wave,water%20in%20the%20water%20column.
Stanly, Morgan, "Tide", National Geographic, May 19th, 2022, https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/tide
"What are spring and neap tides?", NOAA, N/A, https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/springtide.html#:~:text=Rather%2C%20the%20term%20is%20derived,right%20angles%20to%20each%20other.
"Tide Patterns and Currents", Manoa, N/A, https://manoa.hawaii.edu/exploringourfluidearth/physical/tides/tide-patterns-and-currents
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