Model A Specs


Condenser electrical parameter   .020 - .025 micro farads

Rotor-to-distributor posts gap       .025

Point gap                                      .018 - .022

S0park plug gap                           .035


Lubrication

600W for transmission and rear end, Mobil Mobilgear 600 XP460 Industrial Gear Oil 

$31.87 gal. or Amazon $50. Can also use synthetic 85W-140

Shock absorber fluid, Amsoil ISO 68 or M-1046 Houdaille shock oil

Steering box, Rislone Hyper-lube or 600W

Distributor bushing, synthetic 20W-50

Distributor point block, Super Lube

Rear hub bearing - use StaLube heavy duty drum brake bearing grease


Spark plugs

Champion 3X (original)

Champion W16Y OReilley part #561

Canadian C4

NGK F1

Autolite 3076


Distributor pigtail wire

Test lead wire -14 gauge

“BNTECHGO 14 gauge silicone wire red and black each 3ft flexible 14 AWG

stranded tinned copper wire”

Oil filter

Motorcraft FL-1A,

Fram PH3600FP

NAPA 1516

NAPA 21515 (new 1928 valve cover)

Filter for glass fuel bowl

Wix 33039


Electrical Diagnostics


No Spark testing - some possibilities are:

1. Blown or defective fuse (use of a fuse is an aftermarket item)

2. Bad connections at ammeter, or ammeter itself (to find out put a jumper wire from one post of the terminal box to the other to take the ammeter out of the circuit temporarily.

3. Bad ignition switch and/or cable, or loose cable connection at the switch.

4. Loose or broken wires at bottom of coil

5. Loose or broken wires inside terminal box.

6. Loose, bare, or broken pigtail wire under distributor plate, or wire grounding to plate or distributor body.

7. Points not opening or point arm grounding to cam due to worn rubbing block.

8. Worn electrode underside of distributor cap.

9. Loose or broken high tension wire from coil to cap.

10. Condenser burned out or grounding (some condensers are too long and can touch the distributor body inside).

11. Weak coil

12. Rotor not turning due to loose cam screw or bad timing gear.

Now get out your voltmeter (a light bulb can give false readings).

Start at the fuse block, you should have voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you only have voltage on one side, replace the fuse or fuse block. Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ammeter and you should jumper the ammeter for now. You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not, remove the red wire from the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only on one side, you have a bad coil. Open the points with a piece of paper and remove the condenser. Turn the key on and you should have voltage at the points. Replace the condenser and you should still have voltage. If the voltage is missing, remove the top plate and check for voltage on the bottom plate. Check if the connector from the ignition switch screwed in too far. Do you have voltage on the wire to the upper plate? Is this wire shorting to ground or broken? Remove the paper from the points and see that the points are closed. You should have 0 volts at the points. If you do, the points are dirty or the distributor is not grounded well to the engine.