Article from the Oakland Daily Evening Tribune, titled "About Centerville." (August 21,1879)
ABOUT CENTERVILLE.
Ramble Along the Road by Our Own Correspondent.
The Start From Niles Bridge Farms of Severance and Sandborn - The Tyson Place - Mr. Clough's Almondry - Mr. Nichols' Orchards - Mr. Shinn's Nursery - The Curious Ancient Rancher - The Unrecognized Poet - Small Orchards - The Portuguese Element - The Noted Public School Glimpses of Former Teachers - Centerville and Some of Its Citizens - The Prospects For Future Growth Etc., Etc.
Map of the Spring Valley Water Company's properties in Fremont. (May 1,1992)
After crossing the Niles bridge we come to a wide water-ditch, used for irrigating the farms on either hand, but at this season entirely dry. It is twenty feet wide, and carries an immense quantity of water in winter. The Spring Valley Water Company own a controlling interest in the water rights and ditch, and have rented it for a term of three years to John L. Beard, of Centerville, who sells water in winter and spring to those who need it. The water to supply this ditch is taken out from the main Alameda creek at a point near Captain Scott's place. Here there was a substantial flood gate and water-dam built, an earlier one having been washed out. The water from this ditch is used in the available season on grain, potatoes, vegetables, small fruits and nursery trees, and has proved a benefit to many.
The ranch immediately east from the road is Mr. Severance's Spanish Merino farm. Here there is a large barn, also stables, sheep pens and yards, with all that miscellaneous farm-work requires. The grapes, on the higher ridge, are of very fire quality, and are largely Catawbas and Muscats of Alexandria. Mr. Severance's Spanish Merino sheep have taken many prizes, and are deservedly popular among breeders.
A drawing of a Spanish Merino sheep in the Pacific Rural Press, Volume 6. (August 7, 1875)
A clipping from an Alameda County farm map by Thompson & West of the Severance, Sandborn and Clough properties. (1878)
On the west side of the road, opposite the Severance ranch, is Mr. D. H. Sandborn's. This is one of the old places, and was formerly owned for many years by Capt. J. C. C. Scott, a Nova Scotia, salt, now living on a lovely mountain farm situated a mile up the Niles Canyon. An avenue of large sycamores, planted some twenty-seven years ago, leads from the house to the Centreville road, south.
TOWARDS CENTREVILLE.
Now we may, if we are in a choosing mood, go to Centreville, the chief town of this southern part of the county, or we may follow on South, past other pleasant farms and over the varied surface of long mountain spurs, climbing, with easy gradation to the quaint and classic town beneath the shadows of the peak-Mission San Jose. Just at the angle of the road, Thos. Bedard, one of the two blacksmiths at Niles, has built himself a very pleasant home, planted a young orchard about it, and looks very comfortable. If we set our faces toward Centreville, we are slowly and almost imperceptibly descending towards the sea level. The road goes nearly due west with a slight angle about half way, and is one of the best graveled and best managed country roads in the county. Indeed the travel between Centreville and Niles is something enormous, and seems to be on the increase.
A picture of the Centerville-Niles road described in the article, now known as Peralta Blvd. (1903)
A photograph of the Tyson Lagoon, located behind the Tyson Home, from the Julian Howe Collection. (January 2, 1967)
A picture of the Benjamin Tyson Home from the Julianne Howe Collection, located at 38853 Cherry Lane (January 1st, 1966)
NEAR THE LAGOON.
We pass, on the right hand, farms which extend from the road to the Alameda creek, whose dark and unbroken belt of sycamores and willows is half a mile north, and soon turns northwest, toward Alvarado, and the ancient landing of Union City. On the left hand the first farms extend back to the "Lagoon," a circular pond-like depression half mile long, and in summer nearly dry, but in winter quite an extensive lake, some years ago a favorite resort of water-fowl, but hunted over too often by the boys of the neighborhood to make it worth an especial trip on the part of any city Nimrod. On the southern side, the first farm is the Tyson's, settled by Wm. Tyson, one of the pioneers of California, and an early settler in this county. Taking up this ranch, he lived here and brought up a large family of children, and was universally esteemed. By his death last year, the community lost one of its most valued citizens. The large and valuable farm has been well farmed; an orchard.of bearing almonds stands near the road, and is, some seasons, very profitable. The Tyson house is a large, square and solid mansion with little ornament about it. Large walnut trees, and belts of orchard surround it, whilst circular flower beds are in front. Henry Tyson, the oldest son, lives in a neat cottage home which he is improving every year.
AN ALMOND FARM.
Opposite, on the north side of the road, are Mr. Clough's and Mr. Nichols' farms. Mr. B. D. T. Clough is an almond man, having been in the business of raising almond trees for sale, some years ago, when it was thought that the whole coast was adapted to the culture of almonds. It is now known that in many places they will not bear, but where they succeed they are one of the most profitable of crops. When Mr. Clough, finding that his soil and climate promised good returns, he planted over a large share of his farm, and gradually got out of the business of growing trees and into the business of raising the almonds. It has been a successful and profitable orchard, bearing in most years. There is quite a miscellaneous collection of other fruit trees, and belts of eucalyptus, poplar, and pines, near the house and along the margin of the creek, give protection against the winds, besides being certain to furnish a profit in the way of fire-wood some of these days. Mr. Clough is noted among his neighbors for the habit, (a very good habit, by the way,) of sticking trees down in all sorts of odd corners, until his home-like farm seems crowded full. He has a clean wall of poplars from his house to the main road; also, along the front of his place, a double row of trees for avenue purposes, the outside row being the graceful pepper-tree, and the inside row being of taller trees. This luxuriance and abundance of trees makes Mr. Clough's place one of the neatest in the valley.
A photograph of the Ford-Clough Ranch. (1885)
A photograph of the Clough-Ford home, (February 13, 1966)
A clipping from 1938 Orchard and Garden Book detailing their stock of plum trees (January 1, 1937)
A picture of the Niles Salesyard from the California Nursery Company in 1938 Orchard and Garden book (January 1, 1937)
MR. NICHOL'S ORCHARDS.
Mr. Nichols is more of a general orchardist. He grew different kinds of prunes many years ago, when they were worth fifteen and twenty cents a pound, and, in those days, was perhaps more of a plum man than anything else. The present orchards, which cluster about the old farm-house, are largely peach, cherry, apple and plum, with a good proportion of pears. Mr. Nichols usually gets the highest market price, for he takes great care in picking, packing and shipping his fruit, and these things tell to better effect each year, Persons who are accustomed to visit the fruit-dealers' section of San Francisco, and the commission merchants of Front or Davis, can not fail to observe how often bad packing soils the appearance of fruit otherwise good. It is not long since we saw Bradshaw plums shipped in old apple bores, of course arriving in a worthless condition. Mr. Nichols has two fine bearing orange trees growing in his garden. One, seedling, has had fruit for five or six years past. The other tree is a fine variety known, from the place it originated, as the Wolfskill orange. The next place in point of order is a nursery, the only one in the township, and devoted to the growth of fruit-trees, shade-trees and ornamentals.
SHINN'S NURSERY
Has, during the seven years of its existance, sent trees and plants to every county in the State, to Arizona, Oregon, the Eastern and Southern States, also to the Sandwich Islands, to China and Japan. If one climbs up on the tankhouse and looks over the nursery grounds it will appear like a checker-board pattern of various shades of green. Young peach, almond, pear, plum, apple and Japan Persimmon are of a different shade of green. In the flower-garden south of the greenhouse are beds of Japan lilies now in their prime. These lilies are so well adapted to the soil and climate of this valley that they ought to be planted by the hundred, on lawns and in scattered groups through shrubbery. There is a great deal on Mr. Shinn's place, which is worth a visit from tree-planting people But Mr. Clough beats him in the way of trees along the main road.
A photograph of the Shinn Historical Park from the Julianne Howe Collection (Feb 14, 1966)
A CURIOUS RANCHER.
This nursery property was formerly owned by a curious old blacksmith and general tinker at everything, who settled upon it at a very early date in Washington Township history. He built a dwelling house out of the lumber from an old schooner he bought in San Francisco, towed up to the landing, and broke to pieces. He dug in piles of stones about the roots of the first orchard he planted. This being done, according to his story, "to enrich the soil." He went out, and, in sober earnest, grafted apple twigs on a large sycamore tree near the house. This was so as to be able to gather in due season "apples as big as pumpkins." His accumulations of old iron of every describable shape and use were being plowed out, dug up, and in short, rediscovered in all sorts of out of the way corners for years after. When he moved to another place on the border of the Lagoon, south, he built a house which appeared the facsimile of a ferry boat, just buried to her lower deck, except that the wheel-houses were absent. He gathered (if the phrase is admissable) new stores of old iron about him, in yet more surprising quantity. He revelled in old junk of every description. Within a hundred yards of his house there was material, if properly boxed up, for an unlimited succession of "old horse sales."
AN UNRECOGNIZED POET.
Washington Township must have been more than ordinarily blessed with eccentric characters in the days of old. Somewhere along about '55 or '56, there was a certain rhyme-writer known as Ned M-, who had at least, one trunkful of tragedies, epics, night-wails, melancholy entreaties to some too obdurate fair one, and sketches for novels innumerable. It was Ned's practice to waylay unsuspecting school children, pen them up in a corner of the fence, and read them his poetry for hours. (See "Impressions of Theophrastus Such" on follies of small authors.) How cruel, in fact, how coldblooded, this habit of Ned's was, may be inferred from these barbaric lines which, despite all efforts to dislodge them, still cling in my memory. Perhaps, if they are once told the spell will be broken.
"O, great and billowy sea,
Shout on in thy wild glee,
And beat thy fists against thy shore,
Which is like a woman's forehead;
I am love-sick for thee
Yes, truly, and the run is torrid,
Which means hot. Hear the ocean roar.
Why shout wild waves forevermore,
Shout, shout," etc.
A little of that sort of thing goes a great ways. It was for years Ned's passionate and unasuaged desire to contribute to some Eastern monthly. Finally, eight or ten lines of his found lodgment in Harper's Drawer, (which was not at all the department for which they were intended. Their gist was that, "An eagle in the vasty dun." saw a "A speck in space," and, after various gyrations, duly apostrophized, he "swooped, and grasped the solid world." Pretty gord eagle story that. Ned long ago drifted away from this section, but it may truly be said of him that he lives in his poetry.
SMALL ORCHARDS.
Opposite Mr. Shinn's is Wm. Barry's orchard and well sheltered home. He used to be a strawberry man, mainly, and had every inch of available space filled up with rows of vines. Of late years the growing of Thyme has occcupied considerable of his attention. It is cut, dried under cover, baled and sold to parties in San Francisco. Z. D. Cheney's place, which has been a good deal improved in the last five years, is the next in importance.
A picture of the William Barry House from the Julianne Howe Collection (1966)
A photograph of the Machado House, or a Portuguese Sailor's House, taken by Julian Howe. (July 26,1967)
A photograph from Oakland Tribune, Volume 163 Dr. (from left) Luis Esteves Fernandes, a Portuguese ambassador to the United States; Dr. Cunha, a foreign minister; Mayor Clifford Reshell and Superintendent of Parks William Penn Mott inspecting plans for the Portuguese Village. (December 5, 1955)
A clipping from the Oakland Tribune Volume 23 showing Carlos Almeida holding a flag of Portugal (March 13, 1966)
THE PORTUGESE QUESTION.
Hereabouts is the perfect nest of Portugese cabins and small houses. They are on both sides of the road, having bought land in small tracts from all the original owners in the vicinity. From Niles to this point we passed no Portugese houses, but from here to Centerville and thence to Alvarado, Newark, Decota, Jarvis Landing, or any other neighboring place, there are large numbers. Indeed, it is true of this whole township that the Portugese element is rapidly increasing, and will undoubtedly be an important social and political factor. There are, even now, public schools in which the lower grades are almost entirely filled up by Portugese children. Of course, it is a good thing to have them attend school at all. The Portugese usually come here with small means, and work out for wages until they can get hold of an acre or two of land, which they hold thereafter with remarkable tenacity. Most of them come from Azores, the Canaries, or the Maderia Islands, where an acre of tillable land is a precious patrimony, where living is cheap, wages but fifteen cents a day, taxes proportionately enormous. and neither in town nor in country any prospect of growth or advance in values. This Pacific slope offers them advantages which they are not slow to seize. class they are clannish, borrowing from each other and lending to each other. They work harder for themselves, on their own little farms, than any other known race. If, in the winter, one gets up at three o'clock, the lights will soon begin to twinkle in Portuguese cabins over the valley. It is fair to state, however, that they do not work this way for anybody else. Farmers, who often hire them, will bear me out in the remark that the generality of Portuguese are very deliberate in their movements, and very much alive to the importance of long rests and pauses when they are working for some one else. The best Portuguese to work are old sailors, for a sea-faring life (except in Marryatt's novels), has considerable rope's-end, tar, roughing it and severe drill. So, here is the problem; In a peaceable but persistent way, the Portuguese are taking possession of portions of this valley. They are thrifty, and save their money, which is a good thing; but, as voters, the present generation does not average nearly high enough. Some of them speak English and adopt many of our ways of living, out the vast majority are not sufficiently educated. It is not their fault but their misfortune, and the direct result of ages of oppression and the rule of a titled class. The question is, how much of this sort of thing the American republic can assimilate.
A WELL KNOWN OLD SCHOOL.
The old Centreville school-house, when, years ago, Judge Nye, our candidate for the Legislature, taught most successfully, is worth a paragraph by itself. It stood in the Mowry field, half a mile from the road, and south of the old Crosly place. It was, for years the leading school of the township, and the district has since been divided into several smaller ones. While the school-house stood in the Mowry field, there were among its teachers, several of wider usefulness since. Mr. J. M. Ginn, is now principle of the Anaheim school. Miss Julia A. Rappley, now missionary at Broussa, Turkey, and so long one of the leading spirits at Miss Blake's, in Oakland, did much to organize and develop the Centreville school, and her influence is still felt in the neighborhood. Mr Wheelock, also of Oakland, taught here for a long time, and also Miss Burrowes, now Mrs. Oliver, wife of the principal of the Gilroy High School. Some years later the school-house was moved to a point on the main road, at the corner of Mr. H. Overacker's farm. Here Mr. C. B. Towle, present principal of the Vallejo High School, taught term after term. Fred Campbell, of Oakland, our next State Superintendent to be, taught here, with his unfailing tact and discipline. It may be put down as an irrefutable proposition, that every one of Fred Campbell's old pupils in this vicinity will vote for him, regardless of party. The same may be said of Judge Nye, whose relations with this school district were very close and friendly. The boys he taught will vote for him; the girls he taught will coax their fathers, brothers and husbands to go and do the same. The latest and final move of this historic school was to Centreville, where fine new building was erected on a large lot near the Town Hall. Mr. W. A. Yates, most efficient teacher, has been principal for several years and Miss Lillie Wall, of Oakland, is assistant.
A photograph of the 3rd Centervillle Grammar School, located near Mowry Ave
A picture of the front of the 3rd Centerville Grammar School (1881)
A photograph of the Howard Overacker House
EX-SUPERVISOR OVERACKER.
Passing on, towards Centreville from the old site of the school house, we cannot but notice the coniferous avenue of ex-Supervisor Overacker, and the tall white house half hid in trees beyond. It is a very conspicuous building, and one of the best in the township. The old house, when Mr. Switzer, now a wealthy orchardist of Novato, Marin county, once lived, was one of the land-marks of the county in days gone by, and the old orchard and currant bushes near by had fruit when fruit was worth the gathering. Mr. Overacker's new orchard is large and well taken care of.
CENTREVILLE.
It is always well to be frank about a town and about a community. If a writer puts down his impressions exactly as they occur, they are worth something at least; but if he tries to think what he ought to say, the thing becomes a mild-mannered farce. Now, Centreville just missed being an important place, a large place, a leading town, and a rapidly growing community. For the size of the place there is much business done there, because it is a central point for much of the valley. But the natural advantages of the place have never been utilized. No streets have ever been laid out. town is left to extend itself along the crossroads on which it was originally built. Shanties, barns, out-buildings, Chinese wash-houses and most ancient fences jostle each other in blind confusion in the back parts of town. Time and time again, enterprising men have tried to have streets opened, believing that the increased sale of lots would compensate them, but some stubborn property-holder objected. A triangular space between the two roads in the heart of town would, it was suggested, make a good public square, if set apart and planted with shade trees; but this plan also failed. There are in Centreville. some nice houses on the main street, a good hotel, four stores, all lively, and blacksmiths, wagonmakers, tinners, shoemakers, painters, etc. Salz & Co., have
LATELY PUT UP A NEW BRICK STORE.
Rev. W. F. B. Lynch, the former County Superintendent of Schools, resides near Centreville. His two oldest. sons are teaching in the county. Dr. Lorenzo Yates, whose home and office are on the main street, has an enviable reputation as a collector and scientist. He has contributed papers to the American Naturalist, and other Eastern publications. His collections in geology and botany are admirable; and his land and marine shells form a most extensive list. The Doctor has made many excursions over the State, which have always been fruitful in curiosities. Some years ago he found parts of a mammoth's tusk in the alluvial bank of the Mission Creek, twenty feet beneath the surface. He also discovered the tooth of an extinct Llama, which must have been of gigantic size. This last elicited much discussion.
The position of the town of Centerville is such that the growth which is inevitable, must eventually burst its bonds of indifference, shake it loose, waken it up, and increase surrounding values. .It ought to have made a great struggle, and if possible, have secure the passage of the Narrow Guage Railroad through its limits. This was a fundamental error, but still not irretrievable. The future before every acre of arable land in Alameda county is so brilliant that very ordinary business tact and liberality will suffice. When the growth fairly starts, after all these years of quiescence, it will most assuredly astonish the croakers.
NEMO.