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Day 0 Travel to Tavira
Took the bus from Lisbon at 10. Got to Tavira at 1.30pm, half an hour earlier. Surprisingly, my bagpack which was under in the bus, was all wet because there was some leak in the bus. Driver didn’t give a shit and I could not find a place at Tavira station to complain. Furthermore, the driver had a quite aggressive driving style and the trip was quite uncomfortable, despite the bus being new and being almost empty! Walked to the tourist office where they had no information about the camiño. They told me to go to the church of Santiago, and that’s what I did. Waited about 10 minutes for the church to open at 2pm, and then a lady at the entrance told me she knew nothing about the camiño. Told me there used to be a man providing this information on some days, but now he is gone. Only thing she had was a stamp, and was even surprised with my credential and my shell, which she asked to photograph. We spoke a little about the camiño and I was telling her that either the church or the tourist office should so something about promoting and supporting pilgrims. She said she would talk to the bishop!! She was then nice enough to let me in the church as there is a 3€ fee to do it! Santiago here is different from the one in Spain. This Santiago has a sword, rides a horse, and is after the moors!!
I later checked in the youth hostel. Very cold room, heating wasn’t working, started to rain and had difficulty in finding a restaurant which I liked. Ended up going to Lidl to buy a few things. Eat a salad and had to improvise with a frozen lasagna as it was supposed to be oven cooked and not microwave cooked! In the kitchen I spoke to an English man who was 68, travelling to Portugal each winter as he saves money on energy! Very talkative man. And then two Danish ladies, one with 83 and the other, the daughter, around 55. Just travelling for 1 week. We had a sort of chat, but the English man monopolised everything.
Night was tough. There were two friendly young Canadians, but the one sleeping above me snored all night. Not very loud, but at a steady pace. Hostel has a buffet breakfast, which starts at 8.30am…too late for a pilgrim, so I asked mine in a bag. They were quite conservative when putting stuff in the bag, and I only got a bread, and apple and a yoghurt. Not too impressed with the hostel (20.5€). Furthermore, I found out after paying that there is a pilgrim discount which was not applied!
Anyway…hopefully day 1 is better!!
Day 1 Tavira to São Francisco, 28,6km
Long day for a first day. Only after 17km I could find a coffee. Nice pastelaria actually, in Alagoa, but they did not give me a stamp. Owner was not there and the girl didn’t have instruction to stamp my credential!! Amazing how the Algarve is empty in January. Really off season. Many cafés and restaurants shut down and go on holidays. Landscape was interesting, although not new for me. I have cycled this route before. Orange, lemon and mandarin groves, avocado plantations – quite many – some salt piles, especially going out of Tavira. It rained a little, and actually had to put my rain trousers. In Cancela Velha the church was open and a lady who was there stamped my credential. View down to the sea is wonderful and it brought memories of my costa abaixo.
I had a small lunch in Castro Marim. Fried chicken with salad and chips (10,5€). There was a place 3 km before which was possibly better, but I wasn’t that hungry then. I did not go up the castle as I wanted to arrive asap. I had low expectations regarding my accommodation near the small village of São Francisco (2km after Castro Marim). But I am actually nicely surprised. I have a nice double room with balcony (ok, the view is towards the access of the motorway), bathroom, wifi and tv and ar-con (drying my underwear and t-shirt now). Dealing with emails and some little work now, and will go out for dinner later. The guesthouse has a restaurant but thankfully is closed on Tuesdays!!
Day 2 São Francisco to Alcoutim, 35,8km
Too long the walk today, although the weather was wonderful, truly spring, and landscapes were amazing. Very few services....In Azinhal there is a great cafe/bakery/pastry shop....really nice!! After that, there is a cafe at Guerreiros do Rio, after more than 20km....views over the Guadiana are stuning. There are part where walk in on the asphalt road, but other parts are in small and really beautiful paths. Tired now....(btw, last night, restaurant at the local association Campesino was great and inexpensive)
Day 3 Alcoutim to Mesquita, 15km
What a day. The most beautiful so far. Most of it along the river, on a narrow path. Slippery at times, lots of wild boar signs…oranges, lemons and even pomegranates (got one for dinner). Crossing the river Vascão was tricky, Maybe I did not do it in the right place. I used an old (roman?) stone dam…and put my left foot on the water! Then there were too many branches on the other bank. Spoke to a couple (German man, English women) who were tearing down a caravan. They told me that according to a new law they have to get rid of everything. I can understand that in places, the river bank looks like a junkyard, but can’t think of the millions they spend in the wooden boards next to Guerreiros do Rio. At the junction of Vascão and Guadiana, high up in the hill there are two wonderful houses I wouldn’t mind living in. Stunning beautiful the view. And that’s where I had small lunch. Now I am in Mesquita, a village of about 30 people. Restaurant has closed and the Albergue also. I have seen three renovated houses for tourists (like me tonight), and a local told me there are several foreign couples here (3 or 4 brits, 1 French, 1 Danish). A bar normally opens about 1 hour in the morning and around lunch time. It’s great to sleep in Mesquita (mosque) when walking the Santiago Way!!
Day 4 Mesquita to Mértola, 25,6 km
Nice day today. Did not start very early as I wanted to go to the local association, which opens at 8:30. Met three people there, had a nice chat, drank a coffee and got a stamp! There seems to be a problem with the accommodation in the village. Noticed some tension, which is a pity as a village like this could do really well with an Albergue and a restaurant. Anyway…first 7km on an asphalt road, but only 2 cars. Then though lovely landscape and nice paths…went through several villages: Vicentes, Roncão de Baixo, Roncão do Meio, Roncão de Cima and even Roncanito! In Roncão do Meio (google points to Boavista) there was a café, which was open. No food…so I had another coffee. Luckly the bakery van just passed so I bought a lovely cake (gila cake). Wonderful. In Lombardos, the café, where apparently there are some snacks, was closed (maybe for lunch), and I asked directions to an elderly couple. They seemed to know the place and said they used to go to Mértola walking. They told me I could go near the river, and that there was no problem with the owner of a property which allegedly blocks the passage. I walked this way and I found myself in private property trying to cross a stream. I did it and walked about 3-4km on a private road along the river. I guessed this was appropriated by this wine estate. Crazy! After jumping a gate, it was another 3-4km to Mértola. And what a beautiful sunny afternoon, and what a view! And so many sheep! I am staying in a nice little hotel (Flor do Guadiana), inexpensive (25€), so all is good! Went to dinner to the restaurante the lady from the hotel recommended: Salvador- nice and inexpensive again.
Day 5 Mértola - Amendoeira da Serra, 28,3km
Two different parts. Early morning, asphalt for about 7km...lots of hunters with their pick ups and dogs...then beautiful gravel road. Coffee at Corte Gafo de Cima, small sandwich for lunch on the road, beautiful flocks of sheep. Met two women who had killed a pig at home and were preparing some parts of the animal in a nearby stream, like in the old days. Had a 2nd coffee at Mosteiro, and got the 6th century church keys to have a look. Engaged in an instructive chat with the lady at the café about life in the village. Got to Amendoeira at 4pm and I have a room at a Mértola association house (connected to the lynx protection - 25€). No heating!! Will have diner at the bar in the village (dinner was quite nice and spoke to the men eating there - Taberna da D. Maria. Actually they invited me at the end for a glass of wine, and that was nice. Food was good and inexpensive). Absolute silence now...
Day 6 Amendoeira da Serra - Cabeça Gorda, 23,8km
Quiet day, warm, some sun, lots of cork and wheat fields. One village after 14km, very basic. People take me for a foreigner, with my backpack. Once I speak, they know I am northener!! Cabeça Gorda is a regional centre. There are several Asian workers, walking in the same sleepers as me, just with no socks (according to the man at the cafe, there are about 200 sleeping in one building; they work mostly in the olive farms). They are considerably more taned than me!! Plenty of men aroung, drinking beer in the few cafes/bars which are open. I am staying in the social centre, where elderly people spend their days. It is closed on weekends, so it's all for me. I am practicing for the future!!! Eat at Cafetaria D'aldeia - great toasted sandwich when arrived at 5pm and then squid for dinner at 8pm. Very very tasty, great price and Luís, a teacher who also runs the place, has a pilgrim discount of 10% on all food. These little gestures are highly appreciated! Thanks Luís also for putting me in touch with the president of the local parish on a Friday evening, so I could organise my stay (which was free by the way)!
Day 7 Cabeça Gorda – Cuba, 40,3km
Early morning. Kids in the bus stop ready to go to Beja. Several people in the café. Had breakfast (Galão and Queijada de requeijão) and left. Somehow I lost my water bottle, which I regrated later as no services till Beja! Furthermore, I managed to make the journey even longer than it was supposed to be, as I missed a right turn and continued straight for at least 2 km. I lost at least 1 hour….the way is nice, lovely landscapes, some cattle, but before Beja it was so muddy that my shoes weighted 10 kg each. Quite tough to progress. It reminded me of Via de la Plata in December 2022! Beja felt a bit run down. Many houses in ruins, some renovations ongoing. Went straight to the castle, to the tourist office, to get a stamp, and then continued the long walk. Just stopped at a local café, quite basic. Had a bifana (pork meet inside a bread) and a coke, bought a bottle of water, and continued the walk. Outside Beja there were a lot of gypsies. I was actually shocked with the number of shacks where these people live. It was a long 13 km to São Matias, no services in-between. Stopped in café national 18, where I got a stamp. There was a lot of olive groves today, some just being planted, by numerous migrants…and the plants, the olive trees, were from Morocco as seen on the boxes they carried. Got to Cuba at about 5.30, 10 hours after starting. I am staying at Hospedaria do Carmo, for 25€ with breakfast, and it’s not bad. Dinner just next door, and for 11€ it was a nice meal – chocos and some local wine (Chave de Ouro). Now it’s time for emails and uni stuff….and to sleep.
Day 8 Cuba - Viana do Alentejo, 29,5km
Started at 11:15, as I had to work in the first part of the morning. It was warm all day, but windy towards the evenning...it actually rained a little bit, but nothing major. Didn't even take my rain jacket out. Highlight of the day was the crossing of herdades with wild cattle, i.e., bulls. It was a national geographic moment. A Spanish young men, which later I found out it was the son of the owner of Ganadrria Brava, Núñes de Tarifa, told me to be careful...I asked him what should I do if I encountered a wild bull, if I should ran and try to climb a tree, and he just repeated...you have to careful!! I walked the 7-8km looking around 360 degrees...scanning for free bulls. It was fun but I felt the danger and the adrenaline. The landscape was beautiful!! Passing Alvito was nice, lovely churches, and I arrived Viana already in the dark. Staying in Barrigota a traditional small hotel which is like steping back in time!!! What a dump for 25€!
Da 9 Viana do Alentejo - Évora....38,1km
Long, long day. Started nicely with breakfast at Café Central. Got a stamp at the potter, and left under heavy rain. It was pooring down for at least half an hour. In the first 10km I had trouble with 3 streams...the 1st one I crossed after clearing the pieces of wood which got stucked in the cement pillars. The 2nd one I tried the same clearing method, but it was too much. Also two pillars were missing and I thought it was too much to jump. So...feet in the water...it was ok to cross despite the strong current. The 3rd one was the easiest, altough the wooden structure to go across looked quite unstable. Lost considerable time, but it was fun and beautiful. It reminded me so much of vdlp2022...had to cross some fields with cows, and although not as scary as yesterday, I proceeded with care. After that it was all on the national road to Évora...I guess about 20km...more than 4 hours with cars flying and no shoulder to walk...shit, shit. Got to Évora at about 6pm and almost dark. Made it to Diana Temple for a photo, and then tried hopelessly to find a stamp...at the end find one in the pharmacy across the bus station. These were 9 intensive days, with long stages in the last 3 days. Great weather most days, especially considering it's January!! Hope to come back to Évora to continue the journey.. 😎😎
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