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How to Build the Medium Box
How to Build the Medium Box
All photos and descriptions are for the Medium box, but it is very easy to modify any directions/measurements.
See the Cut List page for dimensions and cut-lists.
This page is still being populated; photos will be added as they are available.
This page is still being populated; photos will be added as they are available.
STEPS
STEPS
The Box
The Box
1. Gather your Parts and tools from the Parts List
2. Cut the needed pieces from the foam to the dimensions in the Plans. 6 pieces (2 A, 2B, 2C are needed per box.
Mark all pieces with a sharpie first.
Take your time and cut straight and square.
The edges of the pieces that will be the top of the box are most important to be straight, so they can seal against the lid.
A simple utility or exacto knife works well. A kitchen steak knife does nearly as well too. Knife should cut without sawing.
If you are going to buy a utility knife for this, get one of the 'snap off' style like this, as the extra length helps with the cut. (Not necessary! Regular one works fine)
3. Tape the edges of any pieces that will be exposed at the end to cover exposed foam
If you are using 2" wide or narrower tape: This includes all four edge of the top and bottom, and the edges of the sides that will be exposed at the 'end' of the box.
If you are using 2.83" wide tape you only have to tape the edges of the top piece.
If the foil tape sticks to itself after the backing is removed, it is likely not salvageable; peel carefully!
Step 3: Tape Edges
4. Assemble pieces using the foil tape.
A second set of hands helps during this step - but is not required!
Tape the outside of the connections first, then the inside corners.
Pre-crease the tape before peeling the backing for inside corners.
You can do multiple short pieces if it's too difficult to lay down a long piece, just overlap slightly
Tape the top edge of the base of the box after all sides are assembled.
5. Weatherseal the top of the base, and underside of the lid.
Note that this weather stripping is offset! See second image
Place a continuous piece of weather stripping around along each edge on the very outside lid.
Place a continuous piece of weather stripping around the inside edge of the base. (This is imporant! If you put it around the outside, you have to measure, mark, and offset the weatherseal on the lid instead of just being able to follow an edge.
Finished Weather Stripping
Weather Stripping is offset for a double seal
5. Add Clamping Block and Feet
We're going to use the leftover pieces from the foam board, labeled "Support Blocks" in the Cut List
Block
The foam is strong enough for the Clamp Light from the Parts List to clamp to without crushing.
Tape a 1"x1"x4" (approximate) piece of foam and securely tape it vertically about 4" from the edge and 1" from the top of the box. Place it so that the bulb can be placed in front of the outlet of the fan, while allowing at least of inch of space for the fnas inlet. See photo 2 for placement.
Feet
Tape four 1"x1"x2" blocks to the bottom outside corners, set back an inch or two.
Foil side of foam goes on the top and bottom for consistent width
Don't skip this step, the air gap ensures consistent insulation!
Step 5, Photo 1
Step 5, Photo 2
Step 5, Photo 3
Step 5, Photo 4
You're done with the box!
Just need to add the lights, and calibrate it!
Electronics and Thermometer
Electronics and Thermometer
1. Remove the reflector from the clamp light - Too large for the medium and small boxes
On mine you simply had to unscrew the ring, slip off the reflector. If this doesn't work you may need to use some pliers to bend the reflector slightly after removing the ring.
2. Cut a hole just big enough to pull a plug through the box.
Cut a hole with your utility knife.
Tape the edges of the hole with foil tape to prevent further damage
Place the clamp light and fan inside the box.
Thread both wires out of box through hole one at a time
Plug hole with a fabric that won't burn or ignite (cotton with no oils or anything should work well, flashpoint is 400F) I used some mineral wool insulation I had laying around. (Not necessary)
3. Place the fan
Place the fan on the floor of the box so that it's at a slight angle to the sides - We want to make sure air circulates through entire enclosure.
Keep fan at least 1" from wall on inlet side. See photo
You can tape the fan to the floor with two pieces of foil tape on either end if you wish.
4. Place the Light
Clamp the fan to the block we taped up earlier.
Place bulb so that the fan is constantly blowing past it. See photo
5. Place the Thermometer - Always place on opposite side of box from lightbulb!
Take your meat thermometer and simply pop it through the board on the far side of box from the bulb.
If you have a digital probe thermometer, you can just drape it over the edge so it's hanging in the air when the top is put on.
Calibration
Calibration
1. Plug the fan straight into an outlet - do not run fan through dimmer
2. Record the starting temperature
3. Plug the light into the dimmer and plug the dimmer into the wall
4. Cover the box
Ensure that the weather stripping nests, and doesn't overlap
Place some small weight on top - several paperbacks seem to work well
5. Monitor the temperature of the box
If the temperature goes past 185F/85C, reduce the voltage with the dimmer
If temperature doesn't rise past 158F/70C, increase the voltage with the dimmer
Repeat until temperature holds steady between 158F/70C and 185F/85C (around 170F is ideal as it gives you some buffer each way.
TAPE the slider on the dimmer in that position with painters or scotch tape (Not foil tape! You may need to adjust later)
If the ambient temperature of the room is reasonably similar, you should be able to just plug both plugs back in and let it sit for 90 minutes or so to have your masks etc. decontaminated.
The Obvious Upgrade
The Obvious Upgrade
If you have wire strippers or are even somewhat handy, wiring a thermostat like the Inkbird ITC-1000 in with a larger bulb will make this a faster, more precise process for nearly the same price! (The controller is $16, but you don't have to buy the dimmer. . .) I'll try to get a how-to up on this soon.
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