Construction and Patterning
Methods of Construction
"The Kaftan is constructed of several sections joined together by almost invisible seams" (Atıl, 1983, pg 183).
From my observations when I viewed several coats through the Clothworkers' Centre in 2018, that the majority of the stitches used to construct garments were running stitch and whip stitch and these held the bias to the lining and the lining to either the front panels or back panel. Based on the look of the threads that were left when the piece was originally separated it looks like they used a stitch that was like a ladder stitch to connect the front panels to the back. This would allow for an invisible seam just like Esin Atıl mentions in The Age of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent.
Enclosures
How the Ottomans closed their coats were done with a thread-covered button and loop. Sometimes the loop was attached to a trim that was made from either card weaving or finger weaving.
Tablet/Card Weaving
Info coming soon!
Finger Weaving
Info coming soon!
Melike’s Buttons
I make a very simple woven button for my kaftans and other coats. They are super easy to make and just enhance your coats so much more than metal buttons. This style of woven buttons can also be used in Elizabethan style clothing as well. If you would like to learn how to do the diagonal woven buttons, Mistress Blitha of Wolfhou has a handout online from Pennsic 2014 that shows how to make them.
For single-colored dots
The number of warps needs to be an odd number. I tend to like between 21 and 27 depending on how big I want the warp to show. Warps less than 20 tend to be very loose.
For two colored dots
Unlike single color or tri-color dots, the number of warps need to be an even number. The button to the right has 13 pink warps and 13 lime green warps for a total of 26.
The warp string is 23 inches in each color to go around then to have a nice long tail. For my weft, I use a string about 32 - 36 inches long. I probably could use a shorter sting since I am usually left with a long tail. The length of your threads might need to be longer or shorter depending on the button and personal preference.
To have the right tension, it is something that you do have to gain a feel for. For me, I stop just as I feel the thread pulling tight.
To finish the button, send the needle with the leftover weft threads back through the center of the button. The tension and the needle going through the warp thread keep the end of the weft from unraveling.
To attach the finished buttons, use the threads leftover from the warps and weft as the shank. I take one side of the button's threads and send it through then the other. The only knots that I have in the entire button are on the inside of my garment where I tie the two sets of threads together to keep them in place on the garment.