Western Jail Cell Process

The Last Rites of Missy the Misfit

Set Build

Our original location did not work out and so we hit the ground running on building a set in the Screen Arts carpentry shop at NSCC's Ivany campus. After we figured out what supplies would be needed and acquired them, myself and the director started on set construction and put the cell walls up. After this we began building the frame for the jail cell where the bars would later go into. Building the cell was a team effort and Peyton, the director, put his all into this set build. Sam Nobel our AD came in and helped that weekend and I am grateful to have amazing helping hands in aiding Peyton's vision in coming to life. After a few days of set building we had a jail cell! All that was left was adding the fuctioning door and the support beams above that would allow for the jacks to be removed that would done later on.

Before

After

Scenic Paint

After building I moved onto the process of scenic painting the jail cell. The inspiration was a jail cell set in the old west. We decided to not fully commit to the period piece as with our timeline making some of these changes would be time consuming. In the end I am happy with the elements like the already dirty sink we had that stayed. I had not done much scenic paint before other than aging clothing and fabrics and bags with schmere, and aging walls and floors with paint mixtures. This was my time trying to make something look like steel that has been rusted over time and intentionally dirty. I started the process by researching and ultimately decided to find a reference photo for rust and just dive in and see how it goes.

Step 1: Prepping PVC pipes

The issue with PVC pipes is that they have a glossy, smooth finish and visible writing on them. This surface is not ideal for painting as the paint will not go on smoothly, peel, and slide off the bars.

The solution was to use sandpaper, sanding creates a rough, grip-able surface with a matte finish that allows paint to adhere properly as well as taking off the visible writing.

(These were the steps we took. There are many recourses online for how to go about prepping PVC pipes for painting and so id recommend those if you are curious.)

Step 2: Base coats

The light colour of the wood needed to be painted grey along with the prepped pipes. we needed an even base coat of a grey before starting on the scenic paint process of aging, rust and those steel details that make the jail cell bars come to life.

We painted the structure and the bars grey. The wood covered easily and looked great. The pipes took 2 coats with some touch ups around where the writing was that was still visible. In the end it looked great for a base coat.

We also needed to paint our set walls. We did not end up seeing much of the walls but we decided to go for the directors signature dark red. I feel it suited the western vibe, the foam wood beams between each wall added a-lot of character. We painted the windows trim to match the beams. Despite these details not being seen much, it added a-lot of character to the set and I am happy how it turned out.

Step 3: Aging first coat

For materials I started with two spray bottles. One was water mixed with brown, the other was water mixed with black, both acrylic paints. I shook the bottles and sprayed the brown onto the bars and structure. after letting it sit a few seconds I took a dry sponge and patted it in as to not have any dripping streaks. I repeated this process several times and often sprayed both on at the same time to mix the colours.

(Make sure to not spray too much in one area or there will be too much water and it will wash away any aging process that you have made.)

Repeat this process on the door and main cell structure till you are satisfied. And now you have your aging base layer that would act as some dirt and aged discolouration as well as some rust patches.

Step 4: Rust Base layer

Time to start on the rust base coat of brown that is applied on relatively heavy as to make it look like a very dirty, rusted cell. We start darker then add those lighter rust colours later on.

Materials : For this I got creative and eventually found a method that worked for me and looked how I wanted it to. I started with a tray and a brown acrylic paint (burnt umber), I had a wet sponge and a dry sponge as well as a dry old paint brush ( this paint brush will be somewhat ruined and so id choose one you don't care about.) I also had a scrub brush with bristles.

Technique: I started by dabbing the scrub brush in the brown and tapping it down in several spots. I then took the dry paint brush and dabbed it around to cover area. You then can take the damp sponge and blend it out. I made sure to make it darker in some areas and use the sponge to blend the paint to be applied lighter and less coverage as we get closer to areas that are not heavily rusted.

Time saver: To save time I eventually ended up using the dry sponge to apply the brown in bigger sections and using the damp sponge to blend it out all over. I used this only for the wood on the sides of the cell as well as the bottom section. For the main areas that would be seen on camera I used the original method.

Important: On the bars I used the damp sponge sparingly as to not smear the base coat. I used the bristle scrub brush and the dry paint brush for the most part on the bars and occasionally used the dry sponge to blend.

Step 5: Realistic touch

A dark ring around the bases where the bar meets the structure adds a rusted and aged look. This step adds alot to making it look realistic.

For this step I used a wet paint brush and painted where the bar meets the structure on the bottom and the top with black acrylic paint. I took a damp sponge and spread the black out to make a bigger ring. I put some brown on the dry bristle brush and lightly and sparingly dabbed it around the ring and blended with the dry paint brush to make it look more realistic.

Important: Make sure to have the black go up the bar from the base as well as come down from the top and blend in with the rest.

Step 6: Rust!

Now for the much anticipated rust process. As with much of this it took alot of trial and error. I first started with a test piece. I took my time with the main pieces that would be most visible on camera (the middle row). Before reading take note that I only used the small brush and more detailed application of the lighter colours for the second row down from the top for the most part. If I had more time I would have done it for more of them, but what the camera saw took priority.)

Dark base coat: For the rust I used a dry stiff bristle cleaning brush and dabbed it in watered down burnt umber. I dabbed that on the bar all over and applying more preasure as to have more coverage near the bottom and top of the bar . As I dab the brush that is applying the paint, with my other hand I use the stiff dry paint brush and dab over it, spreading it out and creating a look that appears as if it is a rust like texture.

You will now do a black layer, this will be done sparingly and lightly. This will be done the same way as the burnt umber aplication but apply less on the brush. (Make sure the black is mixed with water and not too pigmented.) I applied the black intentionaly near the top and bottom of the bar. I found it looked the best when I had a light amount and spreading it with the dry paint brush. Optionally this can be done with just the dry stiff paint brush as it does not look as harsh. (For the main bars that were shown I used only the paint brush.)

3. I then went in with a smaller stiff paint brush and applied raw sienna to darker spots very sparingly and the center. I then used the bigger stiff paint brush and dabbed it around to make it less bright and blend in with the other layers. (Be careful with this colour as it brightens up the area alot. Make sure to apply it lightly and not have too much of it on your brush.)

4. Next was to apply some dark sienna. this colour should be applied the lightest and most sparingly as it can change the look of your rust drastically. I did not use this colur alot as I had trouble not over using it. I used the smaller paint brush and used this near the raw sienna very lightly and only the smallest amount. I used this only in the center. ( If you are worried I would go in with this colour before the raw sienna as to cover any accidental larger red spots.)

5. All that was left now was to use your burnt umber and go over these sections with a very light aplication of the colour on the dry stiff paint brush and cover any areas that are too bright and blend in with the rest of the rust.

Tips: You can take your time with the main few bars that will be seen as they are the main priority. I started out taking way to long with every bar and eventually I ended up using a ripped big sponge and applying the burnt umber in larger sections and using the dry stiff paint brush to blend as I quickly went through the bars. I would also take the scrub brush and put both black and burnt umber on different sides and apply those at the same time then use the dry paint brush to blend. This allowed me to finish faster and cover more area.

Step 7: Metalic finish

And now for the finishing touch, the metalic finish that will make your jail cell bars pop on camera and when lit. I almost did not do this step but decided to last minute and am I ever glad I did. It truly makes the piece pop and look realistic. This step creates a look of a rusted over steel bar.

For this step I used beyond paint from the metallic collection. I used my finger for the application ( use plastic gloves!) I dabbed my finger lightly in the product and lightly streaked it down the center areas of the main bars. I would recommend doing this step with a light shinning on it. I did not see the full effect until I saw it in the light. I added a heavier amount onto the door. The door was not seen when filming much but I am proud of how it turned out.

For a finishing touch I took some of the burnt umber on the dry paint brush and added a light amount of rust over some areas.

Before

bars only site.mov

After!

I had an amazing time on this production and learning how to do some scenic techniques. Knee pads were lifesavers throughout this process as well as my teacher who gave me alot of great advice. The entire scenic rust process took place from March 10th, 2026 - March 12th, 2026. I am very proud of what I was able to do in that short amount of time and I am pleased with how it turned out on camera. This was an amazing last shoot doing art department in Screen Arts and I look forward to continue learning scenic techniques in the future!

THE END

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