When working with latex, glues are mostly useful for latex-to-latex bonds. There are not many glues other than rubber cement that will stick to latex, and rubber cement only sticks to latex and porous materials (like cloth.) For attaching latex to other materials, mechanical fasteners (like rivets) are often a better solution.
Any latex-to-latex bond.
Rubber cement is a solution of natural latex in an organic solvent (usually heptane.) Rubber cement works by contact welding: It deposits a pristine layer of latex on a surface. When this layer of latex comes in contact with other latex, the two fuse together. This process of fusing together takes some time (12-24 hours); for this reason seams made with rubber cement only reach their final strength after a while.
Most brands of rubber cement need to be diluted 1:1 with heptane thinner to have a usable consistency. Apply rubber cement to both surfaces thinly and let the solvent evaporate completely (5-10 minutes.) Press the two surfaces firmly together and let them rest for a minimum of 1 hour. If one of the latex surfaces is already smooth and clean and the bond does not need to carry a lot of weight (such as when you are doing applique work), it is enough to put rubber cement on the other surface.
Elmer's (US), Best-Test (US), Bostik 3851 (UK), also sold by various latex manufacturers.
Any latex-to-latex bond, or for bonding porous materials (eg. cloth) to latex.
Water-based rubber cement works on the same principles as solvent-based rubber cement; it is also a contact weld. Instead of using an organic solvent (like heptane), water plays the role of the solvent. Ammonia is added as an dispersing agent to keep the latex solution from clumping, and gives this type (and liquid latex) its distinctive smell.
Identical to solvent-based glue. Usually water-based glue also needs to be thinned with water to achieve a suitable consistency. When using water-based glue with porous materials (cloth, cardboard etc.) you typically do not need to thin it; if it is too thin it will soak into the material and fail to deposit a layer of latex on the surface.
Water-based and solvent-based glues can be mixed in the same bond; eg. when glueing latex to cloth, use solvent-based glue on the latex side and water-based on the cloth side.
Copydex (UK)
For various synthetic rubber materials (urethane, neoprene etc.) Not sure it is suitable for latex bonds.
AquaSure is a urethane glue. Urethane glues are suitable for most porous and non-porous materials, and stay flexible and transparent after curing. It needs moisture for curing.
Apply to both surfaces and stick together. AquaSure has a very long setting time (24h) and stays liquid for most of that time, so materials have to be clamped in place. Cotol-240 can be used to accelerate the curing time.
McNett AquaSure+Cotol-240
For any neoprene-to-neoprene bonds, and many other applications involving porous materials (foam rubber, cloth etc.) Not suitable for latex bonds.
Contact glue is a solution of synthetic rubber (usually polychloroprene aka. neoprene) in an organic solvent (such as ethyl chloride.) These types of rubber crystallise under pressure; the amount of pressure used determines the strength of the bond.
Apply glue to both surfaces. Let it dry completely. Position and press together firmly.
Evo-Stik (UK), Pattex (Germany), Barge (US)
Rarely when working with latex. Sometimes it's useful for securing screws etc.
Cyanacrylate crystallizes when it is exposed to moisture.
Apply a small amount of superglue to one of the surfaces. Hold both surfaces in place for a few seconds; the bond should form instantly.
Loctite
Rarely when working with latex. Sometimes useful for fastening screws. Epoxy is useful as one of the few glues that can fill gaps and don't need pressure to cure.
Epoxy is a synthetic resin that cures after the two components have been mixed.
Mix the resin and the hardener according to the instructions, and use immediately. Most epoxy glues have a working time of 5-20 minutes.
Many.