(with links to all the SAR Colorguardsman Magazines)
https://www.sar.org/committees/color-guard-committee/
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rHxN7HownZoeZPd6vK6BzIXU0d7c08Re/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E8azSCC-r6GKeAe6G5W24zfoD5mm--_q/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10ZPEWRNfWPxZhR1RkZUwLPJXh3LmU2wj/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dNMYAYO2yYDDEUXDXNX8bKPjqKuUp4yF/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WgoGuL5we84pJ5JB64BrtwNIntAiGzj5/view?usp=sharing
Nothing quite stimulates patriotism like seeing our country's flag in the guard of those representing our founding patriots. If you love this country and are proud of the contributions your family has made to make it great, there is a place for you in the SAR Color Guard. If, after reading some of the various Handbooks, Policy, Procedures, Regulations, and Directives, you still want to join us and, in a small way, live the history of your patriot ancestors, please read on.
NOTE #1: No Flintlock Musket or Rifle is required to join us. We always have plenty of flags.
NOTE #2: We have no lower or upper limits/requirements for involvement. The awards that the SAR offers indicate three events per year to be "active", but that is just for the awards. We welcome EVERYONE to join us however they can.
NOTE #3: The girls and women in our lives are also encouraged to join our ranks.
You can't go wrong following the lead of the 8th Pennsylvania Regiment, Fort Laurens Detachment (Brigade of the American Revolution (BAR)). They are an active local living history group with whom we share our affinity for Fort Laurens.
Uniforming of the 8th Pennsylvania Regiment: https://www.8thpa1776.com/copy-of-photos
History of the 8th Pennsylvania Regiment 1776-1783: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AZ63XphwCEuDfP2e1AK-qMnMBFRaQVL5/view?usp=sharing
Shorter History of the 8th Pennsylvania Regiment: https://www.8thpa1776.com/copy-of-home
Flag of the 8th Pennsylvania Regiment: https://drive.google.com/file/d/12QVxLDcu76ktT6cy1eOEgZ5lzAtCkcHr/view?usp=sharing
List of Suppliers from the OHSSAR: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KlooB5nEDNCd1yu1UgQgHyxzl8rGZ09K/view?usp=sharing
The following should be used as your guide for putting together and maintaining your uniform. We are depicting the regiment as it appears in the Fall of 1778. Each item is followed by a ranked preference, and while all types under each heading are correct, the closer you stay to the top of each list, the more militarily uniform the 8th will appear. Remember, this is an 18th-century army, where uniformity is desired. Individualism in dress is not what we are trying to achieve. You can express yourself in that way when we dress in civilian attire. Also, this guide takes precedence over any earlier guide, as there have been changes made.
Generally, we want to portray the unit as it looked after receiving the French Contract clothing in late 1778. Each soldier would have been issued a Contract, or "Lottery" coat, a pair of white wool breeches, and a white wool waistcoat lined with linen, and lead grey hose. The breeches have a place for buckles at the knees, but the buckles were not issued, and should be replaced with buttons.
White wool breeches, with buttons on the knee bands (part of the French clothing issued).
Overalls: white, of wool or linen
Breeches: white linen or buckskin
Trousers: while linen or wool
Breeches: colored linen, wool, or ticking (basically civilian clothing)
*** With breeches, it is appropriate but not necessary to wear some form of leggings or gaiters
White linen or cotton
Print (blue, black, or brown check preferred) linen or cotton
White wool (part of the issue of French Contract clothing)
White linen with "P" buttons
Colored or printed linen, wool, or other material approved by the B.A.R. (civilian clothing)
Regimental coat of French Contract or "Lottery" pattern. Blue faced red, 9 buttons on lapels, working pockets on the outside of the coat, domed or flat-faced buttons with turret shanks.
Older, worn regimentals; blue-faced red are acceptable, but no new coat should be made to any pattern but the French Contract coat.
Waggoner's shirt of natural or colored linen or wool. Remember, these are working men's clothes, so they should not be of bright material.
Hunting shirt of colored linen (preferably green or brown)
Military cocked hat, with or without white tape, black with silk cockade or black silk. (There seems to be no documentation for "alliance cockades" ever being worn by the unit).
Round hat, black, with or without white tape
Rifleman's flop hat
Caps cut from cocked hats (ask unit commander). A bucktail may be used in any of the above headgear. Hats of the unit should appear well-worn, since they had great difficulty obtaining them during the period we portray.
Common linen workman's cap (recommended for camp wear)
Liberty (or stocking) cap, various colors
*** The barracks cap, or pokolem, worn by many other units, primarily British, is not appropriate for our unit since no documentation exists.
Lead grey wood stockings were issued with the French Contract clothing
White or colored linen, cotton, or wool. Patterns, such as stripes, are prohibited
The unit has no preference regarding long arms, as to type. From inspection reports in the Pennsylvania Line, it is apparent that a mixture of long arms was common. The only qualification is that they should be appropriate to our period, no matchlocks or wheel locks being permitted. The 1777 French musket is also not appropriate, since not all the French troops were armed with this weapon. The 8th had many riflemen, and most forms of European muskets are acceptable, with the exception of Spanish muskets, as there is no evidence of them being used by Pennsylvanian troops. The unit commander suggests that if you are purchasing your first musket, you try to obtain a British 2nd model, or short land pattern musket, commonly referred to as a "Brown Bess" since this weapon is very versatile.
There are two choices in this area for musketmen. You may use either the leather "Congressional" box or a tin canister. Both are black. Do not make the box pictured in "Sketchbook 76". Although it is a correct period piece, it does not do a proper job of securing the cartridges. Riflemen should carry an appropriate leather pouch and an empty powder horn.
Wooden, tin, leather-covered bottles, and gourd canteens are all acceptable. This is you personal preference, but talk to unit members about which they find most serviceable.
18th century reproduction shoes (straight last not necessary) in black, rough-side out.
Center seam woodland Indian moccasins
*** Boots are appropriate for field officers only
Due to foot or ankle problems, some men may not be able to wear 18th-century reproduction shoes. Any black, plain square or round-toed shoe will work if they are hidden by overalls, half gaiters, etc. (Army boots work very well for this occasion)
For French Contract clothing, turret-shanked, domed, or flat-faced buttons
For other military waistcoats, use "P" buttons
Horn, bone, wooden, or cloth buttons are good for shirts. Horn was the plastic of the 18th century, and horn buttons are appropriate for use on breeches, overalls, trousers, waistcoats, shirts, and common coats, jackets, etc.
Metal "USA" buttons can be worn on regimentals (blue faced red) that are not of the French Contract.
It is important to note that just because an 18th century sutler, even a B.A.R. approved sutler, is selling an item, it doesn't automatically make it correct. It is ALWAYS recommended that you consult a veteran unit member, the unit commander, or another knowledgeable source (i.e., the B.A.R. inspector) for the correctness of an item before you purchase or make it. You may save yourself money and anxiety, and remember, it doesn't cost any more to do things right the first time. Your unit commander and NCOs are all familiar with what you need and how to help you become authentically correct. Use their help.
For a VERY GOOD reference source for the period, get a copy of Collector's Encyclopedia of the American Revolution, by George Neuman. Also, please be aware that for nearly everything you need, there is a B.A.R. pattern available at minimal cost. Any patterns other than B.A.R. patterns should be checked out by the unit commander or cadre before you use them. Not ALL outside patterns are bad, but there are enough bad ones to cause you trouble if you use one that has not been approved. The aforementioned Sketchbook "76 also has much good information, but again, talk with the unit cadre before you make something using this information. You may obtain patterns, a guide to fit of clothing and equipment (no cost for this), and information on 18th-century eyewear from your unit commander, NCOs, or B.A.R. inspector.
The OHSSAR provided an extensive list of suppliers/sutlers.
If you are on a strict budget, start with Crazy Crow Trading Post and/or Military Uniform Supply. You may need to confirm their level of authenticity. Buying twice doesn't save money.
Crazy Crow Trading Post, 1801 N. Airport Rd, Pottsboro, TX 75076
Military Uniform Supply, Inc., 3212 Veterans Dr, Pekin, IL 61554
https://militaryuniformsupply.com/collections/revolutionary-war-colonial-reenactment-gear
The long-standing standards for authenticity for the Revolutionary War era clothing and gear are our friends in Indiana Townsends and Samson Historical.
Townsends, P.O. Box 415, 133 North First St, Pierceton, IN 46562
Samson Historical, 119 N Meridian St, Lebanon, IN 46052
Gedney Godwin - http://www.gggodwin.com/
C & D Jarnigan - http://www.jarnaginco.com/
Fugawee - http://www.fugawee.com/
Avalon Forge - http://www.avalonforge.com/
Smiling Fox Forge - http://www.smilingfoxforge.com/
The Quartermaster General - https://thequartermastergeneral.com/
Dixie Gun Works - https://www.dixiegunworks.com/
One key requirement is that the flintlock be historically appropriate and also accommodate a flash guard. The flintlock rifles offered by Traditions Performance Firearms will likely require the help of an armorer or machinist. My first purchase of a flintlock was the Pennsylvania Rifle Flintlock .50 caliber with 33.5" Barrel. It is really nice and accurate, but not flash guard ready.
If you want to run down the rabbit hole of immersion into living history, there are some great resources and groups to consider.
The Ohio Flintlock & Buckskin Rifle Association - https://www.facebook.com/groups/171664405156723/
Association of Ohio Long Rifle Collectors (AOLRC) - https://aolrc.com/
Rendezvous Ohio - https://www.rendezvousohio.com/
Contemporary Longrifle Association (CLA) - http://www.longrifle.com/
National Muzzle Loading Rifle Association (NMLRA) - http://www.nmlra.org/
Northwest Territory Alliance - https://www.nwta.com/
Brigade of the American Revolution - https://www.brigade.org/
Crazy Crow's List of Muzzleloader Associations - https://www.crazycrow.com/site/resources/muzzleloader-associations/
Pedersoli seems to be one of the better manufacturers of replica Muskets and Rifles. In addition to the following muskets, they also have period-appropriate Pennsylvania and Kentucky flintlock rifles.
Brown Bess - https://www.davidepedersoli.com/en/products/brown-bess
Charleville - https://www.davidepedersoli.com/en/products/1763-leger-1766-charleville
Veteran Arms offers more affordable alternatives (but heavier, bulkier, and slightly less reliable)
Veteran Arms - https://veteranarms.com/shop/muskets
Other Sources of muskets, rifles, and gear.
Track of the Wolf - https://www.trackofthewolf.com/
Midway USA - https://www.midwayusa.com/flintlock/br?cid=23212
Muzzle-Loaders - https://muzzle-loaders.com/collections/musket-rifles
Dixie Gun Works - https://www.dixiegunworks.com/
Source of List: https://schuetzenpowder.com/find-a-distributor/
Rt. 2 Box 322, Ona, WV 25545 - 304-208-5508
https://premiumpowderandpyro.com
8010 LaFayette Rd, Lodi, OH 44254 - 330-948-1082
State Road 62 Maxine Moss Dr, Friendship, IN 47021 - 812-667-5131
https://www.nmlra.org/blackpowdersales
13001 E. Austin Rd, Manchester, MI 48158 - 877-223-3552