Iceland

June 17, 2025

I just arrived in Iceland and it seems that I have developed a minor sinus issue, so the descent in altitude from the plane has impacted my ears, not a problem though, because Kathi (my teacher classroom neighbor homie and ADK Sorority sister) has Claritin and I have Umcka and my NeilMed Sinus Rinse! Iceland is beautiful - lava fields span on for miles and miles, tufts and basalts are definitely not hard to find. The woolly fringe moss is so green and fluffy - this is only because the rain is steady in its trickle from the sky, otherwise it would be brownish. We are surrounded by water, pools-inlets-ponds-fjords-other water features, you name it, it's here, on our way to Reykjavik! During our drive in from the airport we learned about these things along with how the beautiful purple flowers, the Alaskan Lupine, are the most hated flower in Iceland. Why? Because it is not native, but was brought in and has now taken over. Highway 41 spans over the lava fields, mentioned before, where there are 5 active volcanic systems alive below. Very anomalous but exciting nonetheless! We also passed by an aluminum smelter plant, one of the big ticket items for the economy here - the reason it is here is because of the cheap electricity (hydroelectric and geothermal plants), not because there is aluminum mines in Iceland. The Aluminum is imported in from South America and Australia - so this is not a very eco-friendly industry. Fishing and tourism are also a big part of the economy. We arrived on National Independence Day, so Reykjavik was dressed and ready to celebrate! Iceland was under Danish rule since the 1300's and in 1944 they claimed their independence. Reykjavik means "the smokey bay" which comes from one of the arriving Vikings seeing the steam coming from hot springs, and not knowing what it was, named it the smokey bay (Reykjavik).

June 18, 2025

Today was an early rise for a morning hike to Dynjandi or in Icelandic, Náttúruverndarsvæði (had to get those special characters in there). In this northwestern fjord there were picturesque views in crisp air that graced us all along the way. We got a chance to walk over the woolly fringe moss in our trek, and OH MY GOODNESS! SOOO FLUFFY!! My feet were happy, like walking on clouds. The birds that I spotted were Common Eider (a type of water fowl), Redwings, and Red Shanks (pictures to come later, I only took my cell phone on this hike since I knew it would be long ~6mi). As we approached the waterfalls or in Icelandic foss, there were many named smaller falls that fall from the main fall. When I reached the top, there was a spectacular red (iron-rich) rock known as rauðalög which is actually a soil that is volcanic in origin. Sulfur is also a component of this clay, that over time, weathering, erosion, and deposition create this spectacular site/sight to see. The iron oxidizes and gives the color we see (red/deep orange). So, in some event, millions of years ago, there were volcanic eruptions and lava flows that deposited this andisol (aka weathered volcanic rock that's now clay that's been pressed back together). The water from this marvelous foss tasted really good too (click hyperlink for video of taste test)! Lots of folks were filling their water bottles.

Later on that day, we stopped at Vigur Island. The island has been inhabited for the last 1,000 years. Six hundred years ago, inhabitants lived more on the north side of the island, but now the inhabitants (only 3 now, mom-dad-child) live on the south side of the island that lies within the Ísafjarðardjúp fjord. There are two historical items that lie on the island: the viking row boat arrived in 1820, but was built in the 1700's and the oldest historic windmill in Iceland. We also learned a great deal about the Eider-down farm that exists on the island as well, which the family manages. Here are some interesting facts about Eider-down farming: The birds are not harmed in the collection of the down, rather, when female Eider birds lay eggs (which can incubate at -5 °C) they may leave them unprotected for a bit until incubation begins. Once this happens, their bodies produce hormones that trigger the release of down which they then use to line the nest to insulate the eggs. They will sit on those eggs for up to 26 days straight - only getting up to drink water (rarely). During the egg incubation, the farmers go around and collect the excess down/feather mixture piles from the nests and replace the missing mass with hay; the Eiderdown is then warmed at 130 °C to dry, the feathers are separated out for processing to sale. 

In addition, we had a, "The Birds," moment when we had to travel through the Arctic Tern nesting site. We were given poles with tiny flags to hold at our head while we walked through to see the nesting Eiders and to locate the Puffins! Very entertaining! We were also given explicit instructions to not swat our sticks. (Link out the video). At the end of our tour, we were given Happy Marriage Cake in the cafe - Delicious! That's rhubarb on top of a cookie-like crust; named Happy Marriage Cake because it helped give a reason to bring couples together.

All the birds of the day: Eider (male (black & white) & female (brown)), Red Shank, Arctic Tern, Puffin, Black Guillemot, and Fulmar.

June 19, 2025

It was a nice slow day, traveling through the Siglufjörður fjord to disembark at the same named town with the intent of visiting The Herring Era Museum. We started with a fun presentation from the Róaldsbrakki Salting Station and then rotated through the three-building museum. We learned all about the history of the herring fishing industry, how fish meal was made and enjoyed two kinds of pickled herring at one of the three museums we visited. Later, we were free to explore, so, in usual fashion, I found a place to get down on some local food. I had an open-faced sandwich on the traditional buttered rye bread that had herring, a boiled egg, dill, potato, red onion, and Icelandic remoulade. In addition, I had carrot soup (with toasted nuts) and then Happy Marriage Cake to top it off. Mmm!

Fun Fact: I asked the woman 

June 20, 2025

We woke to being docked in Hüsavik, the 1st place ever settled in Iceland. It means “The Bay of the House.” On our way here, we saw humpback whales among many water fowl. You can see the volcanic belt on this section of Iceland. Due to the settlements that were established here, the Birch forest was deforested, but now they are working to restore the treasured tree. The weather was about 8 °C and dropped to 7 °C as we approached the highlands passing by Lake Myvatn where 45 species of ducks live. There was an eruption ~2,500 years ago that caused the lake to form. We made our way to the fumaroles (Video 1 and Video 2) where water enters the hot ground, heats up creating an increase in pressure, making mud bubbles that release the gas that will decrease the pressure. Because of this natural feature, Iceland was 1st in creating geothermal power plants. Steam rising from the ground is a regular occurance. In fact, the local bakery uses these areas to bake bread (in the ground). The bread is eaten with butter and smoked trout (you know I had to try some - so it became my breakfast that day). Next we had an ethereal stroll through "The Dark City" - a place where lava towers soar above you. It is said that they are trolls that got caught outside their caves before the first days light and they turned to stone. 

After lunch we visited Goðafoss or "Waterfall of the Gods." The Law Speaker (named this because there were no written laws) of the 1500's had to decide whether Icelanders would convert to Christianity and leave their pagan ways behind. He decided that Icelanders would become Christians, but with two conditions: 1. They could keep their idols, but they had to be kept hidden (That's why I think they have the "Hidden People" to this day), and 2. They could continue to eat horse meat. Following this declaration, The Law Speaker, at the time, threw all of their idols into this water fall to commit. Hence the name Goðafoss or Waterfall of the Gods. (Slow-mo Video)

Fun Fact: It costs ~$2,500US for a fishing license, so anyone who is out fishing is assumed to be very rich. There is some good salmon and trout fishing here.

June 21, 2025

We landed at Borgarfajörður/Bakkagerði this morning and I was up early to make the summit hike to Svartafell Peak on this beautiful (rare) sunny day. This was a pretty intense hike with 1800ft of elevation gain. There was a steady cold wind shear that even kept birds from successfully flying to make any gains in forward motion. It was cold and the wind felt as if it was one hand (maybe 2) clapping my face! (The Wind) The first part was on trail and the last hour+ was off trail. The distant vies of the surrounding mountains were spectacular with close up experiences with glaciated rocks and beautiful flowers (Mother of Thyme, Sea Thrift, Crowberry) and lichen among others. (Hyperlapse Video of clouds coming in over the backside mountains / Summit)

After hiking, I took a respite on the ship to unload the hiking stuff, grab Kathi, and then headed back to town with two of our other shipmates (Shelley & Brian) to explore the Puffin colony and the town that about 140 people call home. In the month of September, the entire town gets together to herd all the sheep from out of the surrounding hills and mountains to corral them for the winter; amazing. I got to try the local favorite, Fish Soup, at Álfacafé (DELICIOUS!!) and would have definitely have had 2nds or 3rds if there was more time.

Fun Fact: Puffins mate for life, leave for the open ocean all winter, and return to the same apartment complex hole-home eace year - they can live for up to 25 years!

June 22, 2025

The eggs in the first pic represent all the bird species in the area - given as a gift to the island from Mexico and made in China. The rusted towers in the back were once used for holding the processed herring oil - the processing plant has since gone out of business. 

A quiet wet & windy stroll (7 miles) through town, past the airport, and along the black sand beaches of the south coast of Djúpivogur really woke up the senses! We were able to walk out to the airport (which is a landing strip of lava rocks and orange cones), and cross over to the other islands because the black sands have created land bridges getting us all the way over to Úlfseyjarsandur! The lava sands only allow for lyme grass to grow and the germ can be used to make bread (even though the guide said it's not that good, but in a pinch it works). There were lava dikes everywhere throughout the town and along the beach showing us how truly grand the million years ago eruptions were! We had a great tour guide that knew a great deal of information, but it was raining, so I wasn't able to write as much as I would have, but did snap quick pics with my cell phone. The cool part about this tour was that he gave us listening devices, so he could just walk in the front and talk and we could hear him quite well if we stayed within the proper distance, you know how I like to wander 😄.

Of course in usual fashion, I had to stop to get some local fare and the recommended place was Djúpivogur Food Wagon where I got the salmon roll and some rhubarb ice cream to top it off.

June 23, 2025

We arrived at Heimaey Island today, passing by many of the islands that dot around it and seeing the various bird species (the majority were Gannets (pictured), Gulls, and Fulmars). After witnessing this awesome ship maneuver out on the stern through the protected harbor, I hiked to the top of Eldfell, a volcano that erupted last in 1973 - quite a site to see! But, before getting started, I drank from the natural spring that the locals call, "Elf Piss." The eruption lasted about 5 months and created 2 squared kilometers of new land and the only naturally protected harbor in Iceland. After descending from the volcano, I visited Eldheimar Museum to be immersed in the occurrence. On the ship and on the hike we heard from people who grew up on the island and had a connection with the experience. Following the hike, in normal fashion, I went to Gott (a restaurant) and got down on the fish of the day, Wolf Fish (a real mean lookin' fish) w/sweet potatoes, onions, hot peppers a tomato puree w/carrots - a blessing to my mouth!

Later that evening, we sailed over to the unesco world heritage site, Surtsey Island, which is uninhabited and the most recently formed islands around Iceland. It took about 4 years for the volcanic island to form and is used to study how animals and plants colonize new land.

June 24, 2025

Today was disembarkation day (sad face), but we looked forward to our independent field trips that we planned prior to arriving. To start the day off, after exiting the ship in the morning, we hung out at the Parliament Hotel for awhile with our shipmates as we were waiting for the afternoon bus to the airport to pick up our rental car, and then we toured around Reykjavik since we had the time. We went to see the Hallgrímskirkja - a church dedicated to the memory of Hallgrímur Pétursson, a poet who wrote 50 hymns of the Passion which are listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Then we went shopping, ate some food at the famous Íslendingar Borda SS Pylsur or Icelanders Eat Sausages stand (with apple catsup this time around), and roamed the streets. After getting on the charter bus to the airport and getting the car, we figured to check out where The Blue Lagoon was and I was taken aback by the harsh landscape! You could see the steam rising from the pahoehoe lava flows that are still cooling from the recent November 2024 eruption. Just wild! The roads were also impacted, covered by lava, and new roads had been made. The massive berm worked though, keeping the lava somewhat in a focused direction, but the town of Grindavik was evacuated and looks as if it is a ghost town now since people are not allowed to fully return. 

Later in the evening we had to stop by the grocery store (to be nosy) and found that Fruit Loops in other countries are definitely healthier than the ones they sell here. I will use that in my Med Chem class when we do the food chemistry unit. 

Fun Fact: The ð character has a hard TH sound similar to the TH in THE, but a little sturdier. The Þ symbol is also a TH sound, but a soft TH, like THOROUGH. 

June 25, 2025

Today was the official Blue Lagoon day! Wow! A famous "wonder of the world," the geothermal baths did not disappoint. So, there is seawater almost 2,000m below the surface that is heated by magma - this water is heated to about 240 °C below the surface (that's pretty close to 500 °F), and used to just flow out of these natural springs (that are now covered in stylish boxes). As the water works its way to the surface it travels through silica and mineral rich aquifers that help to cool it to about 38 °C or about 100 °F where we get to enjoy it. Aside from the beneficial silica and minerals, the algae that forms from the above processes is unique in the benefits to the skin. 

The blue color is just about the same reason why our sky is blue. But, since the silica is white, it gives this really cool version of blue, especially with the lava rock background. The shorter the wavelength of visible light, the better we can see it. Blue light has a shorter wavelength; that is why our sky is blue, and the ocean is blue (the blue lasts into the deep in that situation - it's the only light that can make it). 

Later that day (and probably should have done this in reverse, but it's all good) we hiked, in horizontal rain, up a volcano and then descended into an almost 200m deep conduit of a volcano cone (close to 1.5 Statue of Liberty's). Yes, we went inside a dormant volcano that last erupted ~4,500 years ago. Þríhnúkagígur (Three Peaks) was AMAZING inside! The ride in the "elevator" (an open basket where we are harnessed in with climbing helmets and head lamps on our heads) felt like eternity going down and back up. We spent a good amount of time down there (~30-40 minutes) - I got a chance to hike around along the path, where you could get closer to the walls where you could see that iron, copper, silica, you name the element/mineral, it was down there - a total nerd-out moment for me. There were these massive blow-out holes of where you could only imagine what the force and heat of the lava must have been flowing in and out. It made me wonder where the adjacent chambers led to - this was one of three volcanos in this system - we were in another world. Following the nerd-out ascent, back in base-camp, we had a nice Lamb Stew (reminded me of a Kilimanjaro moment), delicious and much needed with the cold, now sleet icy rain that was once again going to horizontally pelt us on our hike back. ~40 minutes to the car. 

On the drive back, we decided to go to Costco (who knew!). It looks the same as ours, but the snacks, again, don't have the crap in them that our snacks have. Ikea was across the way; we did not have the energy to go see if they served Swedish meatballs.

June 26, 2025

Our last full day in Iceland was surreal. We began our journey this morning at Silfra where the Rift Valley of Iceland is creating a divergent plate boundary in between the North American Plate and the Eurasian Plate (better known as the Mid-Atlantic Ridge). This awesome natural wonder shows its titanic force above the ocean floor on land cutting straight through Iceland. It was truly a site/sight to see! We got our dry suits on (a herculean task - video 1 / video 2) and prepared to enter the 2 °C water (30 something °F)that comes straight from the glacier through the aquifer - and in normal fashion, I had to drink it; it tasted delicious as all the water has in Iceland. Once in the water, it felt as if I had entered another world on a superlunary dimension. From on the surface, you wouldn't think the depths of the water above could plunge so deeply into the earth, but hey, I had just gone into a volcano the day before, so nothing is impossible at this point. It felt as though I was on a lazy river, the current just takes you through with very little effort on my part; I could just enjoy the view and the once again beautiful colors visible light makes - there's that blue again.

After our exploration at Silfra, we explored Þingvellir National Park a bit more, stopping by the museum and reading, this time, about The Law Speaker. There was one more condition that I missed above for adopting Christianity: Idols kept hidden, continuation of eating horse meat, and, additionally, the ability to get rid of unwanted children - very interesting. 

The day wrapped up with a nice drive back to Keflavik, stopping over in Reykjavik to shop and eat again since the commencement of packing for the journey home needed to begin.

A Tribute to the Food of Iceland Not Mentioned Above

I tried many delicious things for the first time. One such item, Reindeer, I was not able to take a picture of since we were invited to the Chart Room for dinner that night - I figured it not appropriate to photograph at that time. But here are some pics of some good eats!