By Baroness Jervisa Wainwright, OP
So, you’re thinking of becoming a scribe - donating your time and talent by Illuminating and/or adding calligraphy to scrolls. Excellent, excellent, you thrill me to death! I’m always happy to encourage and teach new talent.
The one important thing you must remember is if you accept a scroll assignment:
IT IS A STATE SECRET!
I know that the temptation to tell all the good news, but don’t. Recently, Their Royal Majesties of the Middle Kingdom have been publicizing court lists and there are options if someone is uncomfortable with public attention. Don’t ruin the surprise by giving away why someone is being called to court. Don't tell anyone, because you know what will happen.
There are 3 things that you will need to consider when setting up to produce scrolls.
Workspace
Lighting
Tools and Materials
Workspace
The best place to get started is your workspace. It helps a great deal if you can work on a sloped surface. An adjustable drafting table is great if you can get one, if you know someone handy with tools who can make a suitable tabletop equivalent built would be great, or you can use a portable drafting board. Your work surface should be larger than the largest page you plan to work with.
You’ll also need to decide what chair you will be using regularly. The height and slope of your table will depend on the chair you use. You may also want to have a small table nearby to set your materials on to help keep your work area clutter free.
Lighting
Another thing to consider is your lighting. Natural light (Northern exposure) is best, but being in Michigan sunlight isn’t always available. I find a silver reflector light works very well or a small table lamp with a shade that can be tilted (see previous picture). I use a 100-watt bulb but use what you’re comfortable with. When using the lamp, position it opposite your hand. For example: I’m right-handed so I place the lamp on the left side of my table. You need to have the light shine down on the page, eliminating shadows to see properly.
Now that we’ve set up a good area to do your work, on to the stuff you’ll need to create those lovely scrolls you’ll be making.
Tools and Materials
I think the one most valuable book a scribe can have is The Middle Kingdom Scribes Handbook by Randy Asplund. It contains a great deal of useful information for scribes of all levels.
The first thing to think about is the paper you will use. It is best to use a paper that is acid-free, (no one wants to see their lovely scrolls turning brown and flaking apart) and has a smooth or vellum surface. The brand I use most is Strathmore Bristol.
You can use any size of paper you wish but remember that the recipient will want to frame and hang it. Being the nice, generous people we are we wouldn’t want the recipient to have to pay too much for the service.
The tools you’ll need for the sketching of the Initial and/or border you will need the following:
T-square
Pencils 2H or 4H
Gum eraser
Example of the work you want to do
Now we can discuss the subject of paint. I use Winsor and Newton Designers Gouache. They are Watercolor paints that are nice and opaque.
Permanent white
Ultramarine
Spectrum Yellow
Mistletoe Green
Viridian
Cadmium Red Pale
Parma Violet
Jet Black
Alizarian Crimson
The Gold and Silver paint are from Holbien. You’ll also need a paint pallet to place your paint onto.
The brushes should be the round, pointed-tip watercolor type. They should be able to keep a point when loaded with paint. I find the best sizes to be O for covering large areas and OOO for detail work. No specific brand is required.
That should cover painting supplies, now for the Calligraphy.
Calligraphy
The Middle Kingdom Scribes Handbook has many calligraphy samples. You should be able to find the right sample to match the period and area of your scroll.
First, you need a nib holder. Without one you can’t get very far, (well you probably could, but your fingers would get very black and very tired). There are many types; you should make sure it is the one that will accept the type of nib you choose.
Concerning nibs, Speedball is good for practicing or if you’re not doing a lot of calligraphy. They are a little soft and will wear down, and the tips will spread without leaving a nice sharp line. If you think you will be doing a lot of calligraphy, you might find it beneficial to invest in the German made nibs by Brause, available in most art stores. Whichever one you choose, a straight, square tip is best. If you are a left-handed person you need to get yourself a nib with an oblique angled tip. If you can’t special order one from the art store, you should be able to gently grind or file it down to the proper angle.
The size of the nib is determined by the amount of space you have for the text of the scroll. Of the Brause, I have ½, ¾, 1 and 1½ mm. I use the ½ and 1mm the most (and they look it). If you choose to use Speedball, the C-3 is equivalent to the 1mm. Note: The higher the number on the Speedball nibs, the wider the tip.
The inks I tend to use are Pelican and Higgins Black India Ink. They are opaque, permanent and will not fade over time. As to any other colors you may wish to use, it is period to use blue, red (cadmium red pale), green (mistletoe green) and gold. I will thin down the paint enough to flow nicely through my nib and the results are wonderful.
Basic Guidelines for Making Scrolls
As you start blocking in your design area, you need to leave a margin. A comfortable margin is a least 1/8 of the width of the page, to be used on each side and the top. The bottom needs slightly more and should have room for the seal. Personally, that’s too much math for me, on an 11”x 14”sheet I will leave 1½” on the sides and top and 2” on the bottom. Feel free to play around with both ways and choose which works best for you or develop your own way of doing it.
For the calligraphy I like to keep a space of about ¼” between the text and the border if there is one. I find it makes it easier to read.
Anyone following a standard text understands about signing Rex and Regina at the bottom. What if it’s a Regency Court? (The Signet will tell you.) The only thing that changes is the corroboration at the bottom.
Example: “Done by the hands of our Regent(s), (names and titles of acting Regents) this (date) in our (place of event).” (Asplund)
At the bottom the signature spaces should say “Pro Rege” (for the Prince) and “Pro Regina” (for the Princess). (Asplund)
The largest of the Kingdom Seals is approx. 2.5.” So, you should try to leave a nice area, obviously large enough to place it. Some royalty prefer not to place the seal over the text. (Asplund)
Sign It
I think the only thing left to mention is your signature on the back. Some people suggest that you not only sign your name, but your mundane name and address as well as your email address. It makes it easier for the recipient to thank you personally if they can’t do so that night. You will want to place your signature behind a painted area so that it does not show through to the front of the scroll. Some scribes even work their signatures discretely into the artwork.
Don’t be afraid to sign your name. You’re a SCRIBE, be proud. The Kingdom wouldn’t have any wonderful scrolls to give out if it weren’t for us wonderful, talented people.
Oops! One Last Thing - The Gloss
What is a gloss? A gloss is a helpful sheet of paper that you submit with your scroll. It may be taped to the back of the scroll using gentle tape.
The gloss is a typed copy of what the text of the scroll says. It can be difficult for the court herald to read all the different hands used to write all the different scrolls (translate: fancy handwriting and not always english). Typing it up in at least 12 or 14 pt is kind and appreciated.
You can also include your name and contact information on the gloss.
Bibliography
Asplund, Randy. The Middle Kingdom Scribes' Handbook. The Middle Kingdom of the Society for Creative Anachronism, Third Edition 2001.