Shelter: Provide a dry, draft-free shelter with proper ventilation.

Goats will see an old tractor, wood pile, or even your quality built barn as adequate shelter for the coming winter storm; but when it comes down to it so long as they can get dry and be shielded from harsh wind their hardiness will allow them to thrive in the coldest of winters. 

Fencing: Use secure, goat-proof fencing at least 4-5 feet high.  

They will test their enclosure; a six inch gap under the fence (they will crawl out), a small hole through ranch fencing (they will widen it), a tree limb resting on the fence (they will jump it), and if they do get out your only chance of getting them to listen to you will be having food on hand to lure them back. 

Nutrition: Offer a balanced diet of hay, forage, minerals, and goat-specific feed.

The rule of thumb for foraging is 10 goats 1 acre 1 month. While foraging can be up to 80% of their diet it is important to consistently give high quality protein feed to supplement what they don't get enough of in the field. 

Clean Water: Ensure goats have constant access to fresh, clean water.

Be prepared to add a animal friendly anti-algae block to the water in summer, and when setting up an auto fill water trough make sure to set up in a way a goat horn can't pull it out.

Minerals: Provide minerals formulated for goats.

Free choice minerals is the quickest and easiest way to make sure your Kikos stay healthy.  At all times there is a goat mineral block (with copper), salt lick, and baking soda in a dry place.   

Warmth: Provide heat lamps if temperatures drop below 50°F.

Kiko mothers are naturals and will likely sense a cold night and hide the kids.  At times you or the mother wont be able to find the kid, that kid is likely sleeping very comfortably in a tight spot until they want to be found.