Daily Discovery

February 2018

February 28: Wow, the end of February is here already... and you can tell that spring will be arriving in March. Outside of the park next to the campus here in Wuwei, the food cart vendors (mostly noodles, noodles, and noodles!) are already coming back during the lunch hours and setting up their rows of shops. They all are selling basically the same thing, so how would I know which one to buy? Do you have any ideas?

February 27: I went to the supermarket today to hunt for a few items to restock my apartment after having been gone for almost a month and a half - you know, the necessities: flour, vegetables, spices, and the like. I was also hunting for a few other luxury items: perhaps a dutch oven pot that I could use with my little oven in my apartment to make some bread, or some stews, or something, but alas, after searching five different stores and asking around, nobody had that. My next idea? A bread pan. Yet, surprisingly this was something that was impossible to find as well. Oh, well.

The luxury items they did have, though? Perhaps some fine imported beer: Pabst Blue Ribbon, anyone?

February 26 So, today is another reflection - discovery - to share with you about the train, since that is a big part of my life here in China, a part that is important and common for so many Chinese people, and yet, very rarely used in the US. The trip home to site yesterday was a bit challenging, since there wasn't a direct train from Chengdu to Wuwei, so I had to buy two tickets, from Chengdu to Lanzhou and Lanzhou to Wuwei; but luckily, I got a hard sleeper bunk for my trip to Lanzhou, so it was a comfortable experience. A cultural note? Most people in the bunks take off their shoes before using the bunks, even if they are not sleeping at the moment, even if they have the lowest (ground) bunk. I'm not sure why this suprises me, beyond that I might not have thought of that on my first trip... but it also reminds me of how the custom is to take off your shoes before entering the house here in China, and put on some slippers. But, no slippers for the train today.

A look out from my middle bunk - not sure why I am showing you this picture, to be honest ... - but you can see advertisements hanging up for Baijiu (first time I've seen this type of ad here), a clear sign of Spring Festival celebrations

February 25: Today, I've left Chengdu - hopping on the train, bringing my number of train hours up to 256 as I cruise back into Wuwei. Cruising back into colder weather, and a city where the remnants of snow from winter still sit upon the ground, waiting for spring to come and melt it away, cruising back into a winter that Chengdu has already left. Today's discovery is more of a reflection on this difference and climate, and a sharing of a few photos from a park in Chengdu where I was walking over Spring Festival, enjoying the Spring that has already arrived. First, a look at the beautiful new, budding trees along the river; second, a man enjoying this weather and these spring buds by painting them into a permanent memory. Kind of like what I am doing with this blog, for me, and for you!

All those chairs in front of the restaurant? Not customers, yet, but those waiting for tables!

February 24: A new little piece of cultural knowledge that I picked up - and experienced first-hand - today with my host family: it's very common to wait outside of a restaurant you'd like to eat at for a long time, waiting for a table. Luckily, it's not boring, though the waiting time can be quite long at places, particularly hot pot or other slowly-eat-and-chat-with-friends-and-family style food. Many restaurants have stools, benches and chairs that they set outside for you to use and chat with friends, while maybe starting on a few snacks like sunflower seeds that the hero of your group brought along for the wait. Last night, it was two and a half hours for hot pot. But, hot pot is delicious. Problem solved.

Also, please check out my new blog post today: Convergence of Culture and Cuisine: Pizza Hut and Beyond.

February 23: I know ... You're thinking, Isaac, you've been talking about how you've been relaxing for a week now, at least, enjoying Spring Festival time in Chengdu and not really doing too much productive beyond eating, sleeping, and hanging out with the host family. It's true, and at the risk of belaboring the point yet again, my discovery for the day is one of similarities that has brought me back to my relaxation methods of youth: scouting for free things while shopping, and reading. A perfect combination.

My host mother in Chengdu has introduced me to the world of vouchers, coupons and store points (sound familiar?) and we ended up today with a free snack: two coffee lattes and a slice of chocolate cake, all free after special offers and vouchers. Ya! Oh, couple that with a nice book from the PC library in 60 degree weather on a day with little air pollution? Yep, you guessed it. Relaxing.

February 22: The first day of work has begun, and since my post yesterday was themed towards the conveniences of transportation between cities in China, this one should mention that there are so many convenient methods to travel around Chengdu itself... busses going everywhere, super clean, safe and fast subways popping up all around the city, and of course, elevated roadway rings that circle the city in concentric circles. Take a look and you'll see how it could help you get where you want to go in a city of 14 million people just a little bit more easily. Oh, and going to work? Or going for tea? Just take the bus system on the upper ring to bypass all the rush hour traffic in the bus-only lane for the price of $0.15 per as much bus transportation as you can take in two hours. But don't worry, it won't take that long.

February 21: Today was the last day of Spring Festival week off of work for the majority of the Chinese people that I know, and people are gradually returning back to home and Chengdu to get enjoy the last day and settle in before work begins again. This afternoon we went to a small little secluded park like area that looks like it should be farther out of the city than it is, nestled in between scraps of trees just outside of Chengdu's third ring road. We ate lunch at a little outdoor food stand, walked around and enjoyed tea for a few hours in a little tea shop along the road, relaxing in the cool weather.

This picture stuck with me, though, as I'm always fascinated by the trains and transportation (read: convenience!) here in China. This is the track for the gaotie (high speed train) running from Chengdu to numerous cities thousands of miles away, like Beijing, Shanghai, Xian, Nanjing... and each has this huge incredible track that it flies across at nearly 200 miles per hour. Wow.

Pizza making time!

February 20: This morning I found myself in Chengdu ... and in summer, for it was quite warm weather (~60F!). So, my Peace Corps supervisor, whose lives in Chengdu and whose family has come from all around China to visit for the Spring Festival, invited me to hang out for the day, walking through one of the bamboo parks near the Sichuan University campus, playing a few games with the family and then eating a lunch. It was a lot of fun - and it was particularly fun to make lunch with her children and nieces/nephews, for this year their family wanted to try something new: making a pizza for part of lunch. The real surprise? Check out the bottom corner of the cheese they bought at one of the larger stores in Chengdu: "Wisconsin Select Natural Cheese!"

That's right - cheese I've seen my entire life ... making a surprise appearance in Chengdu for the Spring Festival!

I love this picture of the mixture of different cultures for our lunch

February 19: It was a fun day of experimenting in the kitchen at my host parents' house... beyond making foods that I haven't been able to make or eat since I came to China (cheesy potatoes!), it was a first for my host parents, too: they'd never heard about some of these dishes and were quite skeptical when I told them that a) these are the ingredients and b) we need to bake it... but once it started baking and the smells started escaping, they were all on board.

The surprise discovery? My host mom proudly explains that she has an oven... and after we are all prepared to bake, she shows it to me. It's the smallest thing I've ever seen in my life ... and I'm sure I could fit it in the microwave if I wanted. Luckily, it still baked the potatoes ... just bite size portions at once.

Yes, that is the oven... and that's a shot glass next to it.

February 18: Another day of Spring Festival, another day of no work and all relaxation for the majority of the Chinese people, and so we took a short road trip to a different little city about 40km outside of Chengdu. We stopped at a little outdoor cafe by the river and sat around - my host parents chatting in the local dialect with their friends, and I was trying to listen and understand as much as I could before just simply zoning out and enjoying the (Wisconsin summer) weather.

The picture you can't quite distinguish? That night we went across the street to a little restaurant to eat dinner and they had live music entertainment, a first for me here in China!

February 17: Day two of the Lunar New Year, and the rest and relaxation continues with a movie. Or at least, we thought it would, but as my host father said after the two-and-a-half-hour extravaganza: 很难看,很难看;too hard to watch! It was a bit painful. Or a lot. But the most interesting, innovative part? If you want to buy movie tickets here, you can buy them on your phone app ahead of time, choosing your seats and paying (with a great discount!), and then simply arriving at the theater ahead of time and printing the tickets out using your phone-generated QR code for your purchase. Pretty slick. Next time, we'll make sure the movie matches.

February 16: Happy first day of the Chinese Lunar New Year, the year of the dog, to you all! Surprisingly, Chengdu is deserted - the streets are empty, the shops are closed, the cars are gone, the busses are occupied solely by the driver steering them through vacant lanes... except for the one part of town where there is a special activity set up for two weeks at one of the attractions in the city: food stands, traditional art and activities, lights, flowers, it has it all, along with what felt like every single person left in Chengdu.

My most interesting sight? The incredibly popular 'french fries,' made like a footlong, fried together in a clump, and topped with a selection of sauces from sweet and spicy, to tomato, to salad dressing type, and sold at a premium, because, well, it's unique.

February 15: Today is the start of Spring Festival! And my birthday. I'm not going to say much, besides that I am grateful for all of my family and friends... both my family back home, and my famil(ies) here in China - I've been blessed with the best of both, as this cake from my Chengdu host family reminded me once again.

An extra surprise? That red 'fruit' in the background isn't a cherry like I think, but a tomato... I wasn't expecting that flavor combination.

February 14: Happy Valentine's Day! And it is time to leave Harbin and part ways as we head off to celebrate Spring Festival, which starts tomorrow! Given the incredible number of travelers over the next few days (I've heard it said that the Spring Festival is the greatest human 'migration' movement on Earth) we decided that it would be better overall - money wise, time wise, money-to-time wise - to fly out of Harbin to Beijing, which came with a few late night snacks on the plane... you know, like pretzels? Only this time we had a small pack of dried dates, which were interesting... especially considering the flavor: Donkey-hide Gelatin Flavor.

I'm still not sure what that is.

February 13: On our last full day in Harbin, we made our way around the city, walking across the frozen lake multiple times, down frozen streets even more times, and encountering even more frozen people seeking to warm up with food from the vendors along the streets. One of the sites I found most interesting was outside of a kebab stand: vegetables, but most often meat, skewered and roasted outside as you wait, then eaten fresh and warm... I didn't eat any, but I saw numerous people eating ... and signs of even more! For the wooden skewer sticks need to be discarded somewhere ... so why not through them into a huge bucket and make a wooden 'porcupine' with everyone else?

February 12: The first stop of the was a quick bowl of noodles for brunch, followed by the first of a few ice parks we are planning to visit in Harbin... it was incredible, and very fun, with a slight chill in the air (okay, perhaps slight isn't perfectly accurate if the ice sculptures just stand outside and don't melt for months...) to remind us to keep moving on to the next statue. You're probably expecting a picture of sculpture. Instead, you got a picture of bread. That's because I'm saving the sculpture pictures for my upcoming blog post, and I bought this raisin bread on the street and could save it past the next block, so it was definitely worth buying - and buying again tomorrow if I can find it. The closest thing to 'real' bread I have found here in China, in terms of the texture, flavor, and density.

February 11: Today could be known as start of Winter Travel 2018: Phase 2! With an amazing host family who offered to drive us to the airport this morning in Jinchang (~100km away!), two flights to Beijing and then to Harbin were nothing we couldn't handle. After touching down in Harbin, whose airport is also very far from the city center, it was an hour bus ride into the center of the city to find our hostel for the next three nights... luckily, even in the hostel area far away from the parks with all the grand ice sculptures, there was a bit (a large bit!) of ice to welcome us this evening. Tomorrow, the adventures here will start in earnest.

Homemade 炸酱面 (zha jiang mian) - with carrots, cucumbers, red peppers, cabbage and tofu!

February 10: A late train ride (or early train ride starting this morning at 1:21 AM ... er... delayed until 1:58 AM) brought us back to Wuwei for a day-long pit stop as we regrouped, rewarmed, and repacked for the trip to Harbin tomorrow! To encourage some activity on what otherwise could have been a lazy day inside, we devised a plan to make dinner - homemade 炸酱面 (zha jiang mian) or 'fried-sauce noodles,' which consisted of a stirfried sauce to cover noodles accentuated by a touch of vinegar, to which we could add any number of vegetables... we chose red pepper, carrots, cucumber, tofu, and blanched cabbage. It was quite delicious for our first attempt! Take a look. Try not to salivate.

February 9: Yesterday, Dunhuang. Today, Jiayuguan and the Great Wall. It snowed, too, surprisingly, so that added a beautiful, slippery and cold element to our hike on the Wall today, though the beauty beats the cold any day in my book. Pictures? Wait for the blog post in about a week!

To stave off the cold, Rebecca and I (and our two friends from the UK - they came with us to Jiayuguan) bought some roasted sweet potatoes from a little cart parked on the road. Warmth for the hands, stomach, and soul - for only 3 RMB. A steal! The picture isn't the greatest, but we didn't have too much time for pictures when our stomachs are making decisions.

Roasted sweet potatoes from a cart on the road - roasted right there!

Heater, tea boiler, and grill igniter - all in one!

February 8: The last day in Dunhuang today - and still, a busy day with many things to do. Therefore, we must start off the day right - with a filling breakfast. For the last two days in Dunhuang, breakfast has consisted of a bowl of noodles - Rebecca's with slices of beef, mine without - to warm and fill us up before heading off to see the sites. Today, a little bit different approach: I started with the sweet, fried doughnut like snack foods sold from a little stand in the market by our hostel, while Rebecca hit up the lamb kebabs and lamb soup from one of the small restaurants nearby.

My discovery to share for the day is the heating system I have seen in virtually every one of these restaurants: a little heater - using either real coal or charcoal, though I think it is real coal - that heats up the restaurant, provides hot embers to start the grills for cooking, and heats up a kettle of tea for the customers.

February 7: It was an incredibly busy day today - a tour with 6 different stops and over 430km driven between sites, from 8:15am until 10:15pm! And for my discovery today - among so many - was that while Rebecca and I were discovering new places, we weren't discovering them alone. Our tour van had a total of 7 tourists today, and two of the other passengers were from the UK, having just graduated high school last year and taking a gap year teaching English in Gansu. Although our schools in Gansu aren't close, we managed to get fairly close today over the 14 hours were spent together touring the sites of Dunhuang, including the geopark (picture to the right) were we saw many natural landforms!

A shout out to our new friends Ross and Tom!

Yeah, that's an internet router. I think.

February 6: Today was the first day of a new set of adventures for me - my first time exploring a new city in China beyond Chengdu, Wuwei, or the occasional trip to Lanzhou for PC training, events or train connections. Rebecca and I headed out last night on the overnight train (11 hours!) to Dunhuang (敦煌)where we will explore for three days before heading to the next stop on our little 10 day tour of northern China ... or at least, a very very small fraction of it! Stay on the lookout for a blog post at the end of the trip.

Back to the daily discovery! In our first stop today in Dunhuang we went to the Mingsha mountains* and the crescent lake area park for a bit of exploring - it was incredible and you must see the pictures when the blog post is published, but for now, a teaser photo with the desert in the background: the entire park area, even high up on the sand dunes has free WIFI.

February 5: Last night we met up with my amazing Wuwei host family for dinner, and during dinner my host mom told me of a restaurant in Wuwei that sells 牛奶鸡蛋醪糟 (niu nai ji dan lao zao), or the same rice, milk and egg pudding like dessert that I tried early last month as one of my daily discoveries from Lanzhou . I don't think that this qualifies as a double-up on the daily discovery, though, because this was in Wuwei! And it was interesting to see that Wuwei had a restaurant that sells it... although, the name suggests that it is a Lanzhou inspired restaurant... that might be, but it wasn't quite as good as the night market's version I tried earlier. Yet, trying it here in Wuwei rekindled my desire to make it myself in the future!

Here in Wuwei, a little bread roll was included!

Want to buy your own pork head?

February 4: Another visitor to Wuwei, another trip to the market... or, just another day in Wuwei, another trip to the market. Though, this visit with Rebecca to the market was the first time that I saw such bountiful pork products for sale.. and by pork products, I mean very conscientious and purposeful use of the entire pig. There was a line and a crowd of people waiting to buy pork from one of the shops, so I waited a few minutes to get a look at what they were selling - every piece of the pig, from the feet to the ears to the heads. Im not sure why there are suddenly so much pork for sale, but I imagine that it also has something to do with the Spring Festival that is quickly approaching!

February 3: It's the beginning of February, the beginning of my winter break and vacation, and China is preparing for the beginning of the New Year, with Spring Festival right around the corner. Rebecca and I went to Leitai park this afternoon to check out one of the tourist sights in Wuwei (marking, I think, my 6th or 7th time visiting), but it was a bit different than before with scaffolding having appeared all over the park, with lights and decorations joining it. I think it is all for preparation of a light festival sometime around the Chinese New Year!

Bonus photo for the day: a picture of the (manmade) lake in Wuwei, that is normally beautiful in the summer, but well, quite dry and perhaps even more interesting to look at, during the winter.

Preparations and decorations are underway here in Wuwei...

Yum yum yum

February 2: Hi fam! It's Rebecca here, reporting for blogging duty (although as the picture might suggest ... eating duty). Apparently today's daily discovery is me and my discovery of Wuwei. After waking up at 5AM for an 8AM flight from Beijing to Jinchang, and then a 37 minute train from Jinchang to Wuwei, I arrived in Wuwei safe and sound. Same for the platter of dumplings, now safe (somewhat safe) and sound in my stomach. My first thought of Wuwei in one word: ask-me-later.

PS: you're welcome for getting Bernard (whom the rest of you know as Isaac, or 一万)to finally update his daily discoveries.

February 1: Would you eat a food called sugar ears? Would you try a food that was a dense rock covered in sugar? It's actually like not a rock, it's more like not-a-rock-stale dense doughnut texture, but still soft. Sound appetizing? Hungry yet? I doubt it.

It was an interesting treat. That is all. Take a look at the picture, it will probably be my only picture of it ever.