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There's no stretching on the equator, but the the image is stretched horizontally elsewhere. The more stretching the further the point is from the equator. Top and bottom edges contain actually only single points - the poles.

2) when one watches it sitting in the middle of the sphere, he can see your image on the sphere without distortion and in so big size that the image covers a substatial part of the field of vision, say a sector 90 degrees wide and 45 degrees high.

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Affinity Photo has Layer > Live Projection > Equirectangular which can show the wiew inside the sphere like the image were painted onto the inside surface of the sphere and the observer is in the midpoint. It shows this:

My opinion is that mapping the environment as a single image onto a sphere and watching it from the midpoint can be plausible virtual reality only if the mapped scene is so far away that it cannot have any perspective. Even in that case one needs some clever viewport wide distortion to make the apparent distance infinite, not = the radius of the sphere. The distortion should live as the watching direction changes.

The Google VR aplication you want to use says that need a cylindrical projection, but asks for a proportion of 2:1 on your image. A 2:1 projection normally is a spherical one that has a diferent deformation, but it is harder to achive in a video for example.

Let's say you have an image of a night sky. You can use Polar Coordinates again. But since the center of your image will become the top after equirectangular distortion, you only use Polar Coordinates Polar to Rectangular once:

Your image have realy litle information and is too small. Also dont have a equirectangular geometry. But you can do it in Blender, its free. Just render it in "Panorama"> "equirectangular"> "Render. To see HDRI images in 360 you can use this site:

Now, if you go to your VR viewer and set it to 360 degree viewing to view that image, you will have black at the top and bottom, but the viewer will pretend its a 3D sbs image, and you can look around and see up, down, left and right.. if you want to make so the black is not distracting, just zoom in a bit..

Regarding the point that blur is not the only problem and that I could have an autofocus problem, taking multiple pictures isn't going to help, because I can't verify focus on the tiny camera or phone screen. I see that a photo is mis-focused only after I copy the photos to my computer, at which point it's too late. As Jeremiah helpfully points out, I will zoom in and check focus and only then take another photo.

In this case, I used an iPhone, with the Cortex Camera app. This app takes a short video and then fuses them together to produce a better quality photo than the native camera app. While it handles some amount of shake, it can result in blur. This is one reason for blur. Other photos, taken using the built-in camera app on the iPhone, or using the NEX or a point-and-shoot, may suffer blur for different reasons.

Your performance as a photographer will improve markedly as you learn to manage these settings rather than to hope that one of a set of shots gets it right. You're clearly moving in the right direction -- keep it up! Over time, your consistency will improve, and you'll find yourself working on artistic aspects of your shots more than technical aspects.

The steps you listed should adequately keep the camera still in most cases, so it comes down to subject. If the subject is completely stationary, such as a landscape with no activity in it, then you are probably fine with one image as long as you get the settings right the first time, however it is still common to take a photo and then tweak settings a bit and try again.

When doing portraits, I normally take 3 to 5 shots in rapid succession, more if it is a bigger group of people, simply to be able to make sure I get one where they are all smiling or at least not blinking. For long exposure photography, I often take at least 3 or 4 shots to dial in the exposure and focus just the way I want, particularly when it is really dark out.

This doesn't affect photos or videos you share outside of Google Photos, such as when you download and email them to someone. In this case, the original location your device saved shows without any edits you made in Google Photos.

If you started a conversation before August 18 2021, any photos that you add or previously added to that conversation will show their locations unless you previously turned off location sharing for that conversation.

Image Quality:

Choose how much image files are compressed.

Select Fine (low compression) for higher image

quality, Normal (high compression) to increase

the number of pictures that can be stored.

All depends on how large you're going to be using/printing your images, it's an individual choice... Just remember that compression is always a loss of data... You can always compress images yourself later if you choose but once data is lost you can never get it back...

As with audio compression (which I do know about) once it has gone, it can never be reclaimed. Use fine and compress later if you need to. And if you have the space (and space is so cheap these days) stick with fine. Always, the better the original, the better the processed image.

Lomography's LomoChrome '92 is designed to mimic the look of classic drugstore film that used to fill family photo albums. As we discovered, to shoot with it is to embrace the unexpected, from strange color shifts to odd textures and oversized grain.

The LowePro PhotoSport Outdoor is a camera pack for photographers who also need a well-designed daypack for hiking and other outdoor use. If that sounds like you, the PhotoSport Outdoor may be a great choice, but as with any hybrid product, there are a few tradeoffs.

If you want a compact camera that produces great quality photos without the hassle of changing lenses, there are plenty of choices available for every budget. Read on to find out which portable enthusiast compacts are our favorites.

What's the best camera for travel? Good travel cameras should be small, versatile, and offer good image quality. In this buying guide we've rounded-up several great cameras for travel and recommended the best.

the jpeg image of the back of the lens cap (i.e., a massively underexposed image) is smaller than the jpeg of a normal scene because there are so many repeated (0,0,0) pixels. in a less extreme case, lower quality jpegs will have more repeats. so, resolution is a function of both image size and quality.

I just had a related experience in a slightly different way recently. I had exported some jpegs in LR to be under 1000K because I was inserting them at a very small size into a book. I forgot that I had done that, and for more than a week I kept exporting images at that size (export with previous). I emailed pics to people, posted them on my website, etc., and nothing seemed amiss. Finally, while I was attaching a picture I noticed the size--968kb! Looked fine to me:

Submit one color photo, taken in last 6 months.Use a clear image of your face. Do not use filters commonly used on social media.Have someone else take your photo. No selfies.Take off your eyeglasses for your photo.Use a white or off-white background without shadows, texture, or lines.

Many acceptance facilities such as posts offices, libraries, and local government offices will take your photo. Check our Acceptance Facility Search page to see if your local facility offers photo services.

Only if your appearance has significantly changed from what is in your current passport. Growing a beard or coloring your hair would not constitute a significant change. If you can still be identified from the photo in your current passport, you do not need to apply for a new passport.

When someone takes your passport photo, you must remove your face covering or mask so your full face is visible and the face covering and mask do not block portions of your face. We need to see your full face to establish your identity.

Whenever someone sends me a photo, whether it be a screenshot or normal photo, they will not display. It will not even let me click it or download it. I have to ask for the person to send it through Snapchat or Messenger. When sending photos or videos, they will not send through iMessage. They will barely send through MMS, and if they do, the quality is awful. Everyone I send or receive from are iPhone users. I have an iPhone 14 Pro Max, and currently on iOS 16.3.1. They use to be labeled HEIC, but I changed some settings according to Google and they now just say JPEG, as seen in the photos I attached. It also does this when connected to Wi-Fi. I feel like I've tried everything.

yes, I'm over it too. I've done everything suggested, including turning on and off (which works temporarily) and then photos etc just won't work again. Apple needs to get their act together here. My next phone won't be an Iphone.

sending photos in any format using a Mac device is truly broken now. The failure mode is that it works for a couple of days and then suddenly stops working. Not a single one of the techniques Apple suggest fixes the problem. 006ab0faaa