The barn at Barkbeth Farm that was once an Inn and where those taking bodies on the corpse road from Bassenthwaite to Caldbeck would stay the night.
HISTORY is disappearing through the cracks in the floorboards at an alarming rate. And this corpse road has been caught just in time. As far as we’re aware, this will be the first written account of this corpse road which we stumbled across in one of those typically serendipitous moments. We had just put the first edition of this book to bed and attended a music event at Bassenthwaite parish room. During the interval we were looking at a millennium map the village had published – and in one corner it showed the ‘corpse road’! We were unable to add this to the first edition so are happy to include it now. The corpse road starts in the south-east corner of the parish near to (and running through) Barkbeth farm. Farmer Malcolm Ewart added a vital piece of the jigsaw when he told us that his grandfather had always said an old dilapidated barn on the path was once an Inn that had been used by the pall-bearers as a place to eat, drink and stay the night. The corpse road is said to continue to Caldbeck – a distance of nine miles. Without any other evidence this was just an oral tradition. So it was with some delight that several months later we came across Tony Vaux’s newly-published comprehensive history of Caldbeck. In Caldbeck: A Special Part of Lakeland (2018) he says: “…many centuries later people in Caldbeck continued to tell a story about a ghostly woman who appeared dressed in white at the foot of Flatt Lonning, a lane used to carry corpses to the Caldbeck churchyard from the hamlet of Fellside”. Fellside is to the south of the village and it’s quite possible this is a memory of the road coming up from Bassenthwaite to St Kentigern’s church in Caldbeck. It’s particularly nice that it also has a ghost! Although the precise route is lost we’ve followed the Cumbria Way, a long-distance path created in the 1970s by members of the Ramblers Association (Malcolm Ewart says the corpse road originally headed south-east from the farm onto the fell). And Vaux also mentions another possible corpse road entering Caldbeck from the north through Brownrigg Farm. Flatt Lonning ran south from the B5299 near to Stadle Dykes.
We hope further research fleshes this corpse road out but there’s no doubting that it’s one of the more enjoyable – if exhausting – walks.
The corpse road goes through Barkbeth Farm. Go through this gate and head for the farm building straight ahead
Distance: About 15 kilometres
Grade: Difficult, mainly due to its length but there is also some hard terrain. However there is a B-road that runs from Bassenthwaite to Caldbeck which is an easier alternative.
Maps: OL4 and OL5
Start: There is a small parking bay at the start but this is also used by climbers heading up the back of Skiddaw. The B-road that runs alongside the path to Caldbeck has a number of parking spaces. Remember: Don’t block gates.
The route: We have not included the complete route as it’s 15km long but it follows for the most part the Cumbria Way. We have picked out the beginning and the end – though you can walk this either way of course.
Beginning: There is a small lay-by near the start. Do not block gates. You start by heading up hill; keep dogs on leads as there are sheep in these fields. Over the crest you will reach Barkbeth Farm. The public footpath goes through this (it's a bit scary but don't worry the farmer is friendly!) and drops down into the valley to join the Cumbria Way (shown on the map as the green line with diamond-shapes on it). Follow the Cumbria Way to Caldbeck.
FINISH: When you arrive at Fell Side, you can continue on the Cumbria Way to Caldbeck but the oral tradition is that the corpse road came into Caldbeck via the west of the village. Flatt Lonning no longer exists so we have used the parallel lonning, Dickie Lonning; this was named after Richard Harrison who married Mary Robinson, the ‘Maid of Buttermere’, (died 1837) a famous beauty tricked into marrying the already-married John Hatfield.
Refreshments: Caldbeck is resplendent with cafes and a pub. There is also good parking but it gets busy in summer.
Find out about more of Cumbria's corpse roads in our book, Corpse Roads of Cumbria available from bookshops or from Amazon.