It's an irony, but we do really grow when we travel. We learn more about the world, how people from other places act, what their culture is, what languages they speak, what food they eat... what kind of trees grow in this country, what kind of wildlife they have, how the air feels, how the breeze smells.
The experience makes us grow, and yet, it humbles us. For us, traveling makes us realize how small we are, really. How we are just a very teeny tiny speck on Earth. And we love it.
Pinnacles is famous for the California Condors and its rock formations. Our crew of eight met up on a rainy Friday at our campsite, spent the night getting ready for our next day hike. Our target was to do the trail loop – reach the High Peak and check the Bear Gulch Cave.
To get to Pinnacles from the Bay Area: Drive South on Highway 101 to Gilroy then exit Highway 25, continue South on Highway 25 to the Park.
What We Brought: Backpacks with trail mix, hiking boots, binoculars, headlamps, sunscreen, lots of water, camera
1. Observing Condors. Only six of us did the hike as two of our crew wanted to rock climb. Side note: If you want to climb, make sure to check the alerts in effect. We set out to hike up the High Peak hoping to see the condors, and thankfully, we did.
There are only 446 California Condors in the world, and 276 of them are in the wild (166 are in California). This is based on the 2016 Population Status of the California Condor Recovery Program. While I have seen them flying by the Big Sur before, seeing them at the High Peaks is quite surreal. They are so close we can see the numbers on their tags. We also were lucky to see a display of affection between a couple condor (36 and 40).
At first, we were wondering what they will be doing, but then the male condor stretched his wings in full glory in a loving display for the female. We did not even know they were a couple til we got to the peak where a biologist had her scope set to help people learn more about the condors. The guides informed us that they were a couple, and that they have a baby, which is super sweet to know.
2. Conquering the High Peaks. We hiked for a total of about ten miles to the High Peaks and back. It was about a six-hour hike, with an elevation gain of 1,400 ft. The hike is not difficult, although National Parks labels the High Peaks to Bear Gulch “strenuous”. This is probably because there are points in the trail that are super steep, especially the part leading to the main peak. Where it’s too steep, there are bars you can hold on too so you would not fall.
This is also the place where we saw the California condors flying almighty high. We got lucky because there was a biologist and a ranger at the peak, letting people look through her scope to get a closer view of the condors.
3. Admiring the Reservoir. After reaching the Peak, we decided to go check the cave. Very near the cave is the Bear Gulch Reservoir, the area is a welcome sight after walking for hours without seeing any water (except for what’s in your water bottle) It is not that big of a reservoir either (that part) but it is beautifully lined with green trees making it a perfect spot to rest and perhaps, have a small picnic. We did not really spend a lot of time here. We just walked passed by it and headed direct to our target destination, the Bear Gulch Cave.
4. Exploring the Bear Gulch Cave. Bear Gulch Cave was a lot cooler than we expected. To “survive” inside, you would need a headlamp, or a flashlight, or in our case, a cellphone. Okay, a cellphone as a source of light might not be great advice but that was all that we have, aside from Larry’s faint headlamp. We got there after a day of rain so the cave was mostly wet, we had to step on the ground with probably a few inches of rain. It was also super dark in some areas that any sign of light feels like a beacon of hope that you will survive. You have to be extra careful too cause you could bump your head in areas where the ceilings are low as you cannot see them since it is dark.
We had a funny experience though and I think it is interesting to share. The six of us got in the cave at the same time, but somehow we lost half our crew who were walking ahead of us. The trail down is steep only one can pass by at any given time. We could hear them so we thought they were still ahead of us so we were surprised to see them “arrive”. This about ten minutes after we got to the picnic grounds already very far from the cave. The cave is a home for Townsend’s big-eared bats too. We did not see them though when we were there.
5. Slow Hike at South Wilderness. We spent our last day at Pinnacles with a slow hike at the South Wilderness Trail. It’s probably the trail less-traveled. I remember seeing only about ten other hikers besides us. There is no elevation gain here, so it’s a relaxing trail to hike through. There are a few surprises though. We saw a huge valley oak, and it was so grand we had to stop. There’s also this stream along the way which offers a cold refreshing salve to hikers’ tired feet.
Backpackers you would meet (if you see them at all, as there’s not a lot) are friendly, the cold refreshing waters you bathe in after hours of endless hikes, the night sky, this list could go on and on.
We went there for a three-day backpacking trip this August. We are all Desolation Wilderness virgins, and boy, we were amazed!
How to get to the Desolation Wilderness: From Sacramento, drive east on U.S. 50 to South Lake Tahoe. From South Lake Tahoe, take California Route 89 North to Fallen Leaf Road. Then just take Fallen Leaf Road to the end (Glen Alpine Trailhead).
What to Bring: Backpacking Essentials, warm clothes, your backpacking permit
Tip: We hiked past Susie and Heather Lakes, uphill to Aloha Lake where we camped the first night. Heading back, we did the loop towards Glen Alpine Trailhead via the Tamarack Trail. It was steep downhill. Our knees felt wobbly afterwards. Also, if you fear heights and narrow trails, this is not the way to go.
1. Surrounding Yourself with Nature. Desolation is a nature feast. There is so much to discover and rediscover when you surround yourself with nature. You get to see surrealistic places like the island at the Heather Lake. If you are lucky, you can even get to see the sun cast its first rays on it first thing in the morning if you camp near it. Also, when I say nature, it’s not just these snow-capped mountains, the pines, and the magnificent granite rock formations. It is also seeing marmots, deer, several species of birds – including a red-tailed hawk!
2. Chasing Meteors. On our second night, we laid on a big boulder by our next campsite at the Lake of the Woods. We traced constellations and counted meteors while watching the glorious night sky. We were way up in the mountains, but probably a few hundred ft elevation less than when we were at Lake Aloha, which was an elevation gain of 2000 ft from Glen Alpine. There, we were able to enjoy an unobstructed view of the Milky Way, made more special because of the Perseid Meteor shower.
3. Appreciating People. This may be ironic but I feel that when you’re used to being in a city like San Francisco (or Manila) where there’s just too many people, most of whom you ignore, backpacking to a place like this where you are surrounded by about less than seven people at any given time makes you appreciate people even more. When you’re at the wilderness, you have more time to introspect and strengthen your relationship with others — in my case, my husband and our friends. For a couple of nights, it was just us — we cooked meals together, shared stories, learned from each other. And it’s not just about other people, you will learn a lot about yourself too, as I did. You would learn more about your character, how strong you are and could be (mentally and physically), and your connection to the rest of the earth — this, unless your lifelong goal is to be an hermit, of course.
4. Swimming in Cold Waters. I am honestly not a fan of swimming in cold waters. However, after hours of trekking, dipping in lakes so cold suddenly wasn’t as bad of an idea. Larry and I discovered saw a mini waterfall while exploring after having set up camp at Lake of the Woods, and well, I had to do it. Despite the cold, I jumped in (and then out after about three minutes, haha). Larry was so much braver. Among us, he was the only one who would readily jump in any of the cold lakes we had seen. Brrrrr.
5. Conquering Yourself. The Desolation Wilderness is an adventure where you can conquer yourself. Along with its beauty are obstacles a beginner backpacker like me might find intimidating — boulders, heights, cold spells, extreme heat, hunger and thirst. But, as Larry would say, “You don’t have to go fast, you just have to keep walking.” Every time I find myself thinking “I’m so tired” or “This is too steep”, I would remind myself to just keep walking. Then, I would just see myself conquering whatever mental obstacle I had that had me feeling physically limited.
I specifically remember our trip downhill, after already about more than five hours of hiking from the mountains back to the trailhead. My knees had become wobbly and we had to traverse this extremely steep and narrow trail. I was so tired and then we saw an old lady looking way past her sixties, hiking uphill alone. We talked for a bit, wished each other a happy hike. In my mind, though, I had an image of a strong woman imprinted, and how inspiring for me she truly is.
It’s perfect as a day trip destination. To get there, you could get on a San Francisco Ferry, Oakland/Alameda Ferry, or the Angel Island-Tiburon Ferry, of course, depending on where you are, at less than $20 round-trip.
Aside from the ice cream cookies at the Angel Island cafe, what else could get you spell-bound in Angel Island? Here are our top five:
Personally, I feel that the best thing about our Angel Island trip is signing up for the “history” tour. After being greeted by our very friendly and knowledgeable guide near the Immigration Station, we headed near the shore for a bit of information about how the island was “discovered”, then went to the Immigration Station building where he shared with us, in detail, how extremely significant the island is (and should be) for almost everyone in the US. During this tour, I learned that Angel Island was a “holding station” for nearly a million immigrants from all over the world in the early 1900s. People who had dreams of coming to the US had to be screened and “segregated” here, and have their lives scrutinized before being “permitted” to the US.
Part of the history tour is learning about the pain and anguish the immigrants at that time felt, which have been immortalized through their writings on the walls. Of all the writings, this one’s the most clear. A transcription, which you can also see in the house, reveals the soul of the poem.
After our “history” tour, we went trekking and hiked our way to the top of Mt. Livermore. Truly, nothing beats the joy of hiking and with the picturesque view and cool breeze embracing us as we go up, I felt high as we spent time just chilling on top of the mountain. Oh, when you get to the top, make sure to look for a mini-trail that goes to this view deck with an even more awesome view. You might not even think it’s a trail – more like a ten-second path walk to an almost hidden viewing area.
You wouldn’t be able to stop yourself from taking photos of the (many) picturesque view that’s right in front of you. As you hike up the mountain top, there’s just too many breath-taking sites — the Golden Gate bridge, the city landscape, the boats in Marin County, random trees, clouds and skies, even power plants (so yes, everything)!
I have read that Angel Island is the largest natural island in the area. If you live in San Francisco, this is the closest to nature you could ever be — on a beautiful island, with thousands of trees, trails to traverse, waters to sail boats on or just swim, birds to see, grounds to camp on, and skies to stare at (especially at night).
The city is super charming, it offers more than what meets the eye.
First thing, the main reason why we headed there quick was to catch a glimpse of a Ross’s Gull, a rare arctic bird that’s been seen in California only one other time in record. The bird must have been brought there by the storm over the past couple of days, and being very rare, birders rushed and flocked to see the rare beauty. We rushed and got there by around 10 am, and saw the Ross’s Gull by the airport, alone, but not. What, with about over thirty birders watching from afar, like us.
A bit of a tragedy, although this is a side note — at around 2 pm, the bird got predated by two Peregrine falcons, and was eventually taken by one .
Nature is a mystery. Anyway, the Ross’s Gull is not the only bird sighting to get excited about at Half Moon Bay. Any time of year, there are many species of waterfowl, raptors, gulls, pelicans, and songbirds that can be seen around the area.
Or shall I say, walking for a bit. To get the best views of the ocean, you can walk a bit up the hills (there are trails so you would not miss them!). The hike is not really much, you can get to the top in five minutes, so be sure not to miss it.
We were lucky to have such perfect sunny weather when we went this weekend. It wasn’t that cold, and the waves, not too crazy that we were even able to stand by this side of the beach and watch a few fishermen in action. On the right side of the beach is an area wide enough for lovers to walk by, or to place and build sand castles. Beware though, that this is not always the case. There is danger when the waves are strong or when the tides are high!
Over at the port, people can buy freshly-caught crabs direct from some of the many boats docked at the marina. We were quite surprised to see a lot of people with their coolers ready, as they haggle to get their seafood fix.
For people who are not as prepared (like us!), you can still have a taste of their harvest as there are also restaurants along the side where you can have as many calamaris, rock fish, salmon, as you want. We had lunch at the local favorite, Princeton Seafood, and everything we ordered — salmon salad, rock fish sandwich, and chips — was delicious.
The waters are just the perfect kind of calm — not too still, still had a bit of waves to make kayaking a bit exciting. The Half Moon Bay Kayak Co. rents out kayaks (fishing, double, single) and even paddle boards. The area to kayak is expansive, we paddled for about 45 minutes before we got to the beach. The marine life is also abundant. Though we did not get to see some seals and otters, we did see a lot of birds as we kayaked — mostly pelicans and gulls. Note: If you’re up for an even crazier adventure, Half Moon Bay is a famous spot for surfing just outside San Francisco.
Photo showing the 'moon rock', taken at the Griffith Observatory.
Larry was born and raised in LA, so he knows the ins and outs -- but this is somehow a recollection of our first trip there together. We went for the holidays, and enjoyed the peace and tranquility of a few of its nature stops — Mt. Hollywood, Big Santa Anita Canyon for the Hermit and Sturtevant Falls, Eaton Canyon, Ballona Freshwater Marsh, and also, Lacy Park in San Marino.
People say that no trip to LA will ever be complete without checking out the “Hollywood” sign. While hiking to the sign is against the law, it is perfectly okay to hike to the top of Mount Hollywood. There’s a hiking trail (Charlie Turning Trailhead) that leads to the top. It’s not exactly where the ‘sign’ is (which you can see from the top too), but in my opinion, is also great.
The hike is a short and easy one (less than an hour) from the Griffith Observatory (Also amazing! Don’t miss their Planetarium show!). On our way down, we discovered that there are mini-trails less-traveled, particularly one where these agave plants (on the photo) were.
Hiking at Big Santa Anita Canyon is love. There is just so much to see, it’s positively overwhelming! One great thing about Big Santa Anita Canyon is its history and the cabins (built around 1890-1920s) that you will see tenderly tucked into the woods are a reminder of it. We hiked to get to two of its waterfalls — Sturtevant and Hermit.
The trail to Sturtevant is cinematic. You would have to pass by some of the historic log cabins, including the famous Fiddler Crossing. Once you get to the waterfall, you will delight in its simplicity. It’s very tranquil in the area (we hiked on Christmas day) and you might consider it a great spot to relax.
The hike to Hermit Falls is a little more demanding (we headed there straight from Sturtevant). Some parts of the trail get narrow and there also are more rock piles to cross (which I love). It’s a hike a bit up the mountain so things could get a little steep. Enjoy the view as you hike to the Hermit Falls because once you get there, you might get a bit of a shock because of the many graffiti.
It’s just sad seeing nature like this. Hopefully, they would get some help removing these graffiti. Also, for people hiking, please be responsible and leave nothing but footprints.
Follow the stream — this is all you really have to do to get to the waterfall. While the stream is mainly dry when we went there this December, there are still certain parts where people could get their shoes wet if they didn’t really want to do a few minor rock-hopping. Before heading to the trail, we stopped by the Nature Center where there’s a mini-exhibit on the life-forms that you could see in the Canyon. Anyway, the hike is very easy, the trail is generally flat til you get to the other side of the bridge where the rocks are. Still, nothing anyone can’t handle. The place was packed when we got there, which is not surprising because 1) it is a park; 2) it’s very close to Pasadena, thereby easy to reach; and, 3) the hike is pretty smooth.
Less of a hike, more of a stroll, we went to Ballona Freshwater Marsh to do some birding. The native plants support a diverse wildlife in the area which is well-protected by a fence. Apparently, this is a place popular among birders as different species come here to forage for fish and tiny insects. Expect less when you come here as the fence limits interaction with nature, which should also be understood as the marsh needs to be protected too, given it’s in the middle of a busy road.
Not only was it a holiday, but it was also raining when we went to Lacy Park so we almost had the entire 30 acres of it to ourselves. It’s a beautiful, well-landscaped park complete with running loops, picnic areas, and a playground. I would say that the rain made the park more of a place for pensive reflection, which was very fitting, because we went there to walk down memory lane, back when my husband used to play there, climb trees, and ride his bicycle, as a boy. Lacy Park is a wonderful place for families, so it seems, and our trip there, with my husband recalling many fun childhood stories as we walk on the trails, is a charming testament to it.
Wow! I love hiking Seeing condors is definitely a bucket-list thing for me. I didn’t know there were only 400 of them left. That is so sad, as they are really majestic. Nice photos!
Nakeisa
My family loves to hike and see nature me not so much. But what I do love is seeing nature and there is so much imagery. I think this is a nice place to visit for people who are actually brave enough to hike. It seems like a great place to go
I’ve always been curious about visiting all the national parks out there, California is a close one for me (in america) so this blog post definitely helped! I love the pics too
Rimsha
Wow, Angel Island seems to have the perfect mix of all the things I love – history, nature, poetry and amazing views. My sister is visiting the US soon and I’m convincing her to add this to her itinerary now
That poem is so poignant considering what is happening in America right now with refugees and immigrants. It’s beautiful though.
I really want to chase meteors and get some awesome pictures of the night sky. This place is freaking 2 hours away from where I live and I didn’t know it existed! Thank you!!
I’ve been to San Mateo once before several years ago. We unfortunately only had the chance to drive by Half Moon Bay. Wow, I didn’t realize there was so much to do and see. Love fish and seafood and this is tempting. Great review of the place, looking forward to my next visit to the area.
This post has brought my mind back to the basics; the last travel blog post I read was an account of staying in Austria in a flash palace between two people & eating in fancy restaurants. & then I find contrasting simplicity in this post; hiking, camping, meteorite watching & connecting with nature. It shows a sign of courage that you went out and had an adventure, and that it does not have to cost a dime!
Drat! The secret is out. Desolation is my very favorite hiking spot. I love the smell of the pine trees and the granite boulders.