I am a newbie who takes photos for my local soccer club. Daytime photos are fine, but I am really struggling with night-time ones. I normally use auto for daytime shots, but this doesn't cut it at night, with the result that the pictures are either too dark, blurred or grainy.
I'd suggest setting the camera to f/2.8 and ISO 12800. Then raise the shutter speed as high as the available light permits. Maybe it will work, maybe not, but it's worth a try. If any of your photos are of athletes standing still before or after the game, you might also consider using a tripod to stabilize the camera.
Good Night Photos Download
Download File 🔥 https://urloso.com/2yGbNm 🔥
Low light sports are a challenge. You need a wide aperture to suck in as much light as you can. On your sample images, you can see how f/5.6 on your 70-300mm made the ISO go up. So it might be better to stick with your 70-200mm and crop. The f/2.8 aperture will collect two extra stops of light.
The next topic is shutter speed. With good light, you can shoot at 1/1000 or more. In low light, you have to find the slowest shutter speed where you can still get sharp images. 1/50 second will let in more light, but neither you nor the subject will be still enough for a sharp image. 1/500 should get you sharp images, but will gather less light, meaning the ISO will be higher. So it's up to you to experiment and find tipping point where motion blur starts to creep in. Your ability to hand hold and track subjects will impact this.
Personally, I would shoot in Manual with Auto-ISO. That way you can dial in the aperture and shutter speed, and the camera will adjust ISO as needed. Set your aperture wide open (f/2.8) and your shutter for 1/250. Adjust shutter speed as needed. A sharp noisy image is still better than a blurry image. Don't be surprised if your ISO is still in the 3200-6400 range. It's just the nature of low light sports.
I shot some soccer games under floodlights this winter. I use an Olympus M4/3 E-M1.2 and an Olympus 40-150mm f/2.8 lens. Because the camera has a smaller sensor than yours it only lets in half the light, so ISO 3200 on my has about the same noise as ISO 6400 on yours.
This first thing is that you have to get the exposure right. The best way to do that is to let the camera calculate the exposure which means shooting in Av or Tv mode or (M mode with Auto ISO if you camera allows that). Don't shoot in M with a fixed ISO unless you really know what you are doing.
You are going to have to compromise between blurred images because the shutter speed is too low, noisy images because the ISO is too high and depth of field problems because the aperture is too wide. Of those, shutter speed is the most important because blurred images are useless, whereas you can do some things with noisy images.
I find that you need over 1/1000 to avoid motion blur in the ball and 1/500 to avoid motion blur in the players. I try to keep my shutter speed at a minimum of about 1/800 if I can, but whether you can achieve that will depend on how the bright the floodlights are on your pitch.
I suggest that you shoot in Av at f/2.8. If you have real depth of field problems, go to f/4. Set the ISO to 3200 and see what shutter speed you get. If it is over 1/1000 then you can either reduce the ISO to 1600 or set the aperture to f/4. If the shutter speed goes down to less than 1/500 then put the ISO up to 6400. If the shutter speed still isn't at least 1/500 then either buy a FF body or put your camera away and enjoy the game. Going to ISO 12,800 will almost certainly give unacceptably noisy images.
If all else fails I will sometimes just underexpose the images slightly. Floodlight can be quite harsh and I quite like underexposing by 0.5-1.0 stops. They at least gives the atmosphere of playing at night.
You are going to get noisy images if you view them at full resolution, so that will reduce your ability to crop later. So shoot when the action is on your side of the field and don't try to shoot on the other side. If you are following someone in particular and they are on the other wing, either change sides if you can or else accept that you will only be able to shoot them during one half. If you want to shoot action around one particular goal, go the that end and stay there. Don't try to shoot from the halfway line.
Here are two shots that I took under floodlights in pouring range in December. I was absolutely at the limit of what my camera would shoot and had to drop the shutter speed to 1/250. I only shoot for the web so I can get away with less than perfect images.
Nighttime sports lighting can be tricky, variable and unpredictable when you are trying to follow the action. This is particularly true in high school and college level sports arenas. Professional sports are better lit for the TV coverage. Set your shutter speed and ISO to the highest tolerable. Use A priority and spot metering. Meter on the faces or uniform of the players. That is what is important to expose properly.
Basically you need to shoot that lens at f/2.8 and keep the shutter speed up. Dark is caused by not having enough light. In simple terms, you take in more light by opening the aperture and slowing the shutter (not an option for sports), or raising the ISO to amplify the light signal further. F/5.6 is cutting the light down to 1/4 of what the lens is capable of; so keep it at f/2.8. Motion blur is caused by a shutter being too slow. 1/800 or better should keep things frozen; faster is better. Let the camera choose its own ISO based on the other exposure parameters.
To help with the grain invest in some good software to post process your images and show in RAW or RAW+JPG. I use DxO PhotoLab 2 Elite and its noise reduction algorithms are second to none. You'll noticeably reduce grain from what you see in your camera's JPGs likely over a stop. There are plenty of other effective software choices as well. You can more easily use higher ISOs when you shoot RAW and post process on your PC/Mac.
Every single shot you show was taken in more light than every single shot OP shows. Also they were taken on a larger sensor than OP has. These two factors mean OP's photos are doomed to be noisier that yours,
Most of your shots are from a closer vantage point than OP generally used and/or used a longer focal length. This means generally you were able to frame tighter. Your shutter speed advice is bang on for somebody able to shoot in as much light as you with as tight framing as you have. So they are indeed standard practice for professional equipment under professional lighting. And they are a good starting point for lesser equipment.
However, with significantly less light, a smaller sensor and looser framing, I think a slower shutter speed is called for. A looser framing doesn't need as fast a shutter to freeze a given speed of subject motion, because the subject will cross fewer pixels or a smaller portion of the frame in the same amount of time. And there comes a point where more noise will actually degrade an image worse than the amount of foot, hand or ball blur you 'd get with a looser framing and a slower shutter.
While it might not be a pleasing solution, photographers need a certain level of gear and/or illumination to do a decent job on sports photography. Even when I shot with 1.3X crop frame cameras (1D and ID II bodies) I found I needed to "obey" the 1/500th sec. "rule" for sports photography.
If the venue is simply to dark or the camera body cannot handle rotten light, action photos are going to be blurred. In the most desperate circumstances some flash fill will help, but that presents a whole different set of problems.
Lens Choice
Well, the first and third ones show the use of a 70-300mm lens. Ditch it for night sports. It is too slow (its max aperture is too narrow / min f-number too large). For shots where a focal length close to 85mm would do, you'd be better off with an 85mm f/1.8 lens. When you need a longer focal length (which I think would be most of the time), use that 70-200mm f/2.8 lens. Shoot at f/2.8 and frame as tightly as you can.
Noise
What you are calling grainyness is noise. Noise is a variation in values of nearby pixels that ought to be the same. That variation is mostly due to variation that naturally occurs in the timing and wavelength of photons emitted from a light source. If you can capture enough photons, those variations average out and the apparent variation is reduced. But when you don't capture much light, there hasn't been opportunity for the variation to average out, so the noise is obvious.
To get less noisy images you must capture more light. In your shooting circumstances you don't really have the opportunity to add more light to the scene, so all you can do is shoot with the lowest f-number(widest aperture) and slowest shutter (longest exposure time) that produce acceptable results with respect to motion blur and Depth of Field.
Blur
There are multiple sources of blur in images. In sports shooting, there are three sources you most need to be concerned with: motion blur, inadequate Depth of Field (DoF) , and apparent blurriness caused by noise. The latter is addressed in the above paragraphs. Inadequate DoF is best addressed in low light situations by composing in such a way that you don't need a deep DoF, or by using a wide angle of view which will give a deeper DoF for a given f-number and shooting distance.
Motion blur should be your chief concern. Unfortunately, the cure to motion blur - using a faster shutter speed - works directly against the cure for noise. The faster shutter reduces the amount of light captured. Most of the time, you should prefer to reduce motion blur even at the expense of greater noisiness. However, when light levels are low enough, you may have to learn to live with a bit of motion blur in order to avoid totally unacceptable noise levels. 152ee80cbc
anybody 39;s guide to total fitness 12th edition pdf free download
download e pan using aadhaar card