Free Download Youtube To Mp3 Converter Turbo

Check engine light came on some months back despite care running fine. Got diagnosed that the wastegate is not allowing to reach full boost and has slowly gotten worse with time. Car drives fine under 25ish mph, but merging on the highway is starting to get tricky. Does not eat oil. Got a quote from a few local independent shops as well as Ford dealerships. Some of them ask me what manufacture date of my vehicle was while others do not. The reason being is I am told that Ford recently has decided to "upgrade" the turbo (probably due to premature failure) on this specific models manufacture date. Unfortunately, somewhere in the Ford parts catalog this new turbo also references the need for an "upgraded" or different catalytic converter. Sadly, no one can give me a definite answer until the car is on the hoist and taken apart.

I have read on here that the WasteGate rod can fail on these turbos, sadly it is internal and not replaceable. So it would cause it not to work properly. I assume if it breaks that the wastegate would just open on its own and not build full boost. And the only fix is a replacement turbo. Now if there are no other problems such as coolant leak or oil or something into the Cat and it has not become clogged with age then I would not think you need that. But it is part of the downpipe and right there so it may just be suggested to replace it if you have a lot of miles, which since it is a 2013 I assume you do. Personally since it is paid off and all and for its age I would source the turbo and downpipe myself, parts that is, and get a local garage to install it for you. That way you control costs more and only pay for labor time. Heck you could probably find a junk yard turbo with low miles cheap if you wanted to got that route or used parts. LKQ can get great parts for great prices.

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First thing to do is stay out of the dealerships. They charge double for what you can get repaired at a local shop. A new aftermarket turbo is only around $500. The waste gate rod is adjustable and can be lengthened to take up the slack from wear if it's not sealing. Get that checked out before replacing turbo.

Audi informed me I need to replace the catalytic converter as well as the turbo in one go. Question I have is that I have driven only around 6000 miles in the last 10 months, mainly short distances in the city with two or three long distance trips.

Shaking while idling does not sound like a bad cat or turbo.

Sounds more to me like a failing ignition coil, combined with an asinine service writer trying to drain your wallet.

All other speculation is moot until you get a second opinion.

I do not know about the cat, but I have seen many turbo"s fail buy shutting engine off without leaving the turbo spin down for a least 3 to 5 minuets. As @GeorgeSanJose said they spin very fast & stay spinning after shutdown ror a few minuets with no oil being pumped to the bearings.

Debris from a failed turbocharger can damage a catalytic converter, an experienced technician will check for damage before writing the estimate. Lack of experience results in accusations of dishonesty.

Someone mentioned boost creep to me today too. From the research I have done, I found that the 5th gen turbo has a small wastegate dump and moving the cat could possibly make the boost creep issue worse...?

So @jlbayes you're the second person now I've seen post in the last couple days saying that the lower stall speed was terrible. Seems weird that builders like @Dynamic are using the slightly lower stalls, but the end user isn't happy. Is it just a preference on your end or is it actually performing bad? @Dynamic you said that the slightly lower stall speed was good up to around a 62mm sized turbo right? @jlbayes what size charger and stall speed where you running?!

Yea, I'm not really looking for the speed aspect, more towing and daily driving ability. I definitely trust Jon to set me up with what'll work best for my needs and turbo setup but definitely nice to be more educated on the subject.

I had a low stall approx. 300rpm lower with a combination of 3 different turbos and 2 sets of injectors. First was an he351cw with 7x.010s. Next was a 66/67 with the 7x.010s and then a set of 6x.013s. Last was a 67.7 with the 6x.013s. The lower stall did not fit my driving habits or expectations. Same converter from 500hp to 650hp. The 2nd to the last converter was a 2800rpm goerends with the s467.7 & 6x.013s. It was magical. Ran it with 3 different s400s and was always spot on for where it needed power etc. Current is stock stall with a totally asinine setup lol.

Again, I'm just quoting what I talked to @Dynamic about but he told me he runs a 2-300rpm lower then stock converter for a stock turbo up to about a 62mm turbo. Anything bigger then that and it gets laggy, and he (I think) recommended a stock stall speed converter or slightly higher for the bigger turbos.

He also mentioned that the majority of torque converter manufacturers use the same materials, with possible the exception of Goerend because they have a lot of machinging equipment in house so it's possible they use their own, but the biggest thing to look for in a converter was good welds and a consistent stall speed. That's why he uses the converters he does.

A converter will stall differently depending on load. However, it will fall within a general range. You can think of it as the RPM the converter changes from a turbine that converts a given torque and RPM (horsepower) to a different RPM and mathematically required torque for that RPM (think a variable gear ratio). After stall, the converter becomes must less like a turbine, and becomes closer to maintaining the same RPM. There is always some loss, turned to heat, unless you are in lockup. Old cars prior to the mid 70s didn't have lockup, and always had a few hundred or more difference in RPM after stall from the engine to the transmission input.

To determine what you want requires a little thought. The basic concept is that you want to look at your power curve, turbo curve, and determine where on the RPM band you want the engine to fully load up.

On my truck that is built for daily driving, I wanted a stall that would load the engine at around 1300 RPM, as I felt that I had enough horsepower there to roll off the line. I don't like it as much now with my bigger turbo, and wish I had a 1700-1800 stall converter. When towing, I don't have enough torque there in first gear sometimes. The engine is held at 1200-1300 RPM which is too low for the turbo to spool without copious amounts of extra energy put into the turbo (fuel = excessive smoke).

At low altitude, my setup is perfect. I don't smoke, I can run the smarty & TST stack hard enough to max my injectors flow, and it runs amazing. Once I moved back to Colorado however, I have to baby it off the line on hot days as I don't have enough smokeless power to accelerate quickly. If I had a higher stall converter, it wouldn't be a big deal.

Another variable, the rest of the truck should be considered too. If I had 4:10 gears and standard tires, my lower stall converter would be just fine, as the power required to get moving with those lower gears wouldn't be as high.

I have had Jon build 2 trannies for me. The '01 has a slightly tighter stall with 3.54 gears than the '02 with 4.10 gears. The gears were not why Jon chose the tighter stall on the '01. He just felt a looser one would be better and what he now uses. I forget what the difference was but I am sure he can tell you. I think I would have liked the tighter convertor for my driving style but there was a year from the time the '01 got wrecked and the time I drove the '02 with upgraded tranny so it might be partly my imagination. This one seems a bit softer off the line (for me) and it definitely has a bit less pull coasting. I have a long straight to where I turn to our home road and I usually make a long coast to it. I know each spot I could kick cruise off and just make the turn almost without braking. And yes, some if the neighbors don't like that but they could pass if they wanted. How much the different gearing might have to do with this I don't really know. So I guess it is not a perfectly straight comparison but it's what I have. I still have the '01 sitting here but I darn sure am not going to swap converters so you can say I was pretty happy with both of them. I think Jon said he would have used a Goerend but didn't have or couldn't get one in my time frame. I think I would have liked that but I sure like what I have. Hope this is helpful. BTW, Jon and his family are REALLY nice people too!

Thanks for that @CSM makes sense! My thing is I pretty much know the biggest turbo I want to use is a 62/65/12, I'll probably have (soon) no bigger then 285 tires, and 3.55 gearing. Don't tow much and if/when I do it's going to more then likely be less then 10k. So hopefully that's enough info to figure out what a good stall speed would be for me.

Preference. Once the turbo lights, it's great. Just can't have a heavy foot off the line or I'd black out the intersection. CSM touched on this, with the tighter/lower stall converters, you get fluid coupling and power transfer in low rpms, so the turbo is slower to spool.

Spragless vs. Mechanical Diode: The mechanical diode upgrade is offered for big power turbo applications that still see street driving duty such as drag week applications. The spragless option is available for track only cars that want the most durable option available.

NOTE: This is a custom built torque converter that is custom configured to each cars specific needs. Please fill out our online build sheet HERE and Submit it prior to checking out or download our build sheet HERE and E-MAIL it to us at sales@ftiperformance.com. 0852c4b9a8

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