The make-up designer works with the costume designer to create designs that work together for characters. To do this you need to make sure you understand the script and character. Make-up designers work closely with the director and costume designer as well as lighting to make sure what you do fits with the lights in the show. Make-up designers work within a budget and must stick to it when buying products needed. Once the make-up designer creates face charts for each character, they then must teach the actor's how to apply their make-up to achieve the look and support in rehearsals (sometimes on show dates depending on the make-up). Looking at the RSC they keep photographs of the character make-up so that they keep the same design every show as well as a folder of design notes and reference sheets.
This video is very good at showing the process of design to stage.
Themes:
Greed
Ignorance
Charity
Second chances
Forgiveness
Kindness
Joy in Christmas
"A Christmas carol" was published in 1843, written by Charles Dickens. It is set in Victorian London.
A Christmas Carol follows Ebenezer Scrooge, a selfish, ignorant, greedy, Christmas hating (and people) old man.
Reading through the book, I made note of each main characters description of their appearance and the clothing they wore. I created this table to help me when creating my designs and seeing which parts for costume and make up I felt were important.
Scrooge:
Ebenezer is the main character, I felt there was a lot of make-up potential with his character, he has lot of description of his appearance and I could work on doing old age stage make-up.
Ghost of Christmas past:
I chose the ghost of Christmas past because I think it is a character that I could go really creative with regarding make-up and costume.
Mrs Cratchit:
I wanted to make a design for Mrs Cratchit because I feel like she is an overlooked character. She spends the day looking after her children, she wants better for her family and later in the book she makes herself strong for Mr Cratchit because he too is struggling with the death of tiny Tim. There is not much description of her but what stood out to me was her dress had bows, which I feel adds a nice little bit of personality to her, researching the clothing of the time for poorer women dresses would not be that exciting so it's something that can make the character stand out a bit more.
Make-up:
Here I wanted to have some focus on smaller details of Scrooges appearance like his red eyes, thin lips and wrinkles. To create the wrinkles I would use some face paint or contour palette because its a stage show it would be more visible to the audience whereas latex old age make-up works better for film and TV as it looks more realistic. Using a red eyeshadow, I would put it as close around the eye as possible and then blend as I'd like to keep it realistic to how they might look on someone. To create the thin lips I would apply foundation to the lips, powder and then with a lip liner draw on the thin lips and fill with a natural looking lipstick.
Make-up:
I would like to focus on making the face seem magical by applying pressed gold glitter on the eyelids and highlight the cheeks and brows. I would press it on lightly with a brush so it is not too harsh and more soft, like the ghost. I am aiming to make the ghost have this soft magical aura. I think the lighting will give a nice reflection on the highlighter.
Make-up:
I have focused on a pink natural make-up look for this character. I have chosen pink as a theme because with the setting being around Christmas, a cold time I thought it could show that cold nicely. A natural make-up look also fits the time well.
This design I have focused on adding more ageing to his character, deepening his under eyes. I would be making his eyebrows messy, matching his hair to show that Scrooge doesn't really care about himself, his sole focus is money and I imagine himself not seeing how much he has changed. Like design 1 I would like to keep the thin lips but add a touch of blue eyeshadow for example to the lips as the book says "The cold within him froze his old features, nipped his pointed nose, shrivelled his cheek, stiffened his gait;made his eyes red, his thin lips blue" for me its important to have references to the book because that's who Scrooge is, that is how we recognise him.
This time I am focusing on a natural look, the books describe the ghost as "like a child: yet not so like a child as like an old man viewed through some supernatural medium" so I want the make-up to be as simple as possible because to me that is how they would appear, neither young nor old. A light touch of pink blush and a silver eyeshadow on the eyes for the magical aspect.
I am focusing here on a natural look, reading the book and seeing different film versions, I see Mrs Cratchit as a hard working woman who is worried for her son and angry at her husbands boss. I would just give the actor a regular base stage make-up.
Make-up:
Here I combined both design 1 and 2. I want to make it very clear who the main character is. So I will apply some wrinkles (old age stage make-up), red eyes, and thin blue lips. These are all characteristics of Scrooge in the book. I think with these bright colours of red and blue, it can be very visible to audience as well as the wrinkles which will really help the audience recognise and understand who Scrooge is.
Make-up:
I am going to highlight the main areas of the face, I want there to be a shimmer whichever way the actor moves their face because I want a mystical effect. when I apply a gold/silver eyeshadow I would like there to be a shadow or smokey eye. I will be keeping the lips natural to keep the focus on the shimmer.
Make-up:
I have decided to keep the natural look for Mrs Cratchit but I will be adding pink blush to the apple of her cheeks for a cold effect.
Step by step guides for Make-up application
1.) Apply Matte primer onto face using flat foundation brush or sponge.
2.) Use 1-2 pumps of matte foundation that is 1-2 shades darker than skin tone onto back of hand.
3.) using a sponge blend into face.
4.) Using a cream contour palette and an angled flat brow brush, dip into brown shade and draw on fake wrinkles and accentuate any existing ones. Focus on areas such as forehead, eyes, cheeks and mouth area.
5.) Use a light highlighting shade from the palette highlight each wrinkle on the top part. Do not blend.
6.) Use a flat fluffy eyeshadow brush and tap into red eyeshadow. Focus on the top and bottom lid of eye but not over the entire lid.
7.) Use a concealer and lip brush to map out a smaller lip shape. Mix blue eye shadow with a nude lipstick and apply to lips.
8.) Powder entire face using a large fluffy brush.
1.) Apply actor's base make-up for stage.
2.) With a small round fluffy brush, highlight brow bone with a powder highlighter, cheekbones and cupids bow.
3.) Apply gold eyeshadow all over eyelids with a small fluffy blending brush and then repeat with silver eyeshadow.
4.) Comb eyebrows so they are neat and tidy, identical looking.
5.) Use a warm toned nude lipstick to apply to lips natural shape.
1.) Apply actor's base make-up for stage.
2.) Use a large angled fluffy brush, tap into pink blush and tap onto apple of cheek. Can be built up as its for stage.
3.) With a mascara wand, wiggle the bristles through lashes until all lashes are coated.
4.) Use a warm nude lipstick to apply to lips natural shape.
5.) use a brow comb and make brows messy.
1.) on a make-up palette squeeze a pea sized amount of matte primer and then at least 1.5 pumps of a matte foundation. Foundation needs to be at least one shade darker than your skin tone. Matte products will help reduce shine from lights on stage.
2.) Apply matte primer to face using a sponge or round dense brush. Focus on the T zone: centre of the forehead, nose, chin and then apple of cheeks.
3.) Using a small sponge or foundation brush (Flat or round dense brush), apply foundation to face focusing on the main centre of the face.
4.) With a round large fluffy brush, tap into a matte setting powder and then tap off excess. Apply lightly on to face all over. Repeat if needed.
5.) To apply mascara use a disposable mascara wand and wiggle through lashes, making sure they are all coated. (do not double dip into mascara unless it is yours).
I used a YouTube video I found for reference, I started with a light brown contour shade to draw out the lines with a angled flat eyebrow brush, I looked for any natural lines on his face and focused on the forehead. Once everything was mapped out I used a light highlight cream shade from the contour palette to highlight each wrinkle, this helps it stand out and draws attention to the lines. To finish I added a darker brown contour shade to really define the lines. I was very happy with this attempt but I did feel like I was holding myself back a bit because I was worried about it looking a bit strange but when I took the photo below to see what it would look like from an audience perspective I could see why it actually isn't that strange and it is quite effective however it wasn't too noticeable just because I did hold back and didn't add as many wrinkles as I could have. Doing this again I would definitely add more wrinkles and fine lines to really show that it is an aged person.
I found doing this make-up quite simple to apply to the actor because after applying her basic stage make-up I only had to add some blush to the apple of her cheeks and some natural lipstick. I was very happy with how this turned out. In the future I might try and find a matte lipstick instead of one with a satin finish because there was a little bit of shine from the lips and I think with the lights for the show a matte lipstick would look better because it would not be shiny.
I applied Scrooge's make-up to this actor and tried to go into more detail with fine lines and wrinkles as I had not when practising on myself and in the final rehearsals/shows. This definitely looked a lot better as I was not so scared of it looking bad, I trusted the process and added more wrinkles. I would change the wrinkles by the cheek/eye area so that they were coming more from the eye area as that is a more realistic area of where they would be. In addition I would maybe just highlight and deepen a bit more as comparing it to the reference video, it feels like it does age her but I would like to add a couple more decades.
Scrooge
Ghost of Christmas past
Mrs Cratchit
In the first video, I found this really interesting to watch because it is a really quick and simple way to make the actor look older for stage and it is something they can do themselves, which is especially good if they have got to age up in the middle of a show. With the method I am taking it is good if the actor is staying older for the whole show, and I do think it is slightly more effective because you can add the highlights and focus on details, with that being said the actor could also get another pencil to add highlights if they think they have enough time.
Old age make-up tutorial
I looked at a few videos to see how to do old age stage make-up and I found this one the most useful because as well as visually showing how to do it they also went into a good amount of detail on areas to focus on. I have used the tips from this video in creating an old age look on Mike and Faith. This went very well the more I did it, I just need to remember to age the neck area. I noticed a few times I was nervous to deepen or add more fine lines and wrinkles because of how strange it looked up close, in the video they say it will up close so the first couple times I did hold back until later on I just trusted the process and it looked really effective looking back at the photo's.
If I had an unlimited budget I would definitely use Ben Nye, I see this brand pop up quite consistently in theatre/TV/film, make-up videos I have watched online as well as they are always recommended by others online. They have a good reputation, they are cruelty free and they were set up by by make-up artist so they would know what works best for theatre. Going onto their website they have the products individually or you can buy a kit and they come in a wide range of shades.
When choosing make-up products it is important to buy multiple different shades of blush, foundation, setting powder, lipsticks and so on because they look different on different skin tones. It is important to consider skin undertones: warm, neutral and cool because then that will help deciding on a blush shade that works for the persons skin and when it comes to foundation everyone wants their foundation matching, in stage make-up you normally go a shade darker.
Primer
Foundation
Setting powder
Lipstick
Highlighter
Blush
Red and blue eyeshadow
Brow pencil
Black mascara
cream contour palette
Flat angled brow brush
sponges
large fluffy brush
large angled fluffy brush
metal palette
Small flat fluffy brush
If sharing any make-up actors must use their own clean brushes or makeup artist cleans with anti-bac brush spray in between each use.
Note: Liquid/cream products are not to be double dipped.
Health and safety:
The health and safety at work act 1974
Management of health and safety at work regulations 1999.
Both of these acts have to be adhered to in the work setting. Within the make-up department the designated person who is responsible for this is the head of make-up.
https://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/health-and-safety-at-work/
COSHH: Control of substances hazardous to health Regulations 2002
https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2002/2677/contents
Applying the make-up before the show I had not had a lot of time so I worked quite well and calm under that time pressure, I was happy with the end result however I should have given myself some more time to focus on Scrooge's old age stage make-up. I was not as confident as I could have been applying, this is due to not doing enough trial sessions on the actor but also I was not quite used to doing that style and up close I felt it looked strange, I focused on the actors, forehead, chin, cheeks and mouth area for wrinkles/fine lines which I definitely could have added more but I thought with how close the audience were going to be sat they would notice the make-up but looking at this video it is clear to me I should have added more wrinkles, deepened and highlighted the wrinkles/fine lines more on this actor, there were many lights used in this show so it is very important to make sure the make-up shows up okay in all of them which is another step to consider next time. I would solve this issue by doing more trial sessions and taking photo's of the make-up under the stage lights and make any necessary changes. Overall this was a very informative experience for me I have learned a lot about stage make-up (specifically old age) and how you just have to trust the process.
Websites used for research:
https://theatreanddance.appstate.edu/costume-and-makeup/makeup-designer
https://www.rsc.org.uk/about-us/how-we-make-theatre/wigs-and-make-up
https://youtu.be/csosHts7IU8?=gGiJwuKwyDARzQzC
https://www.alleytheatre.org/dickensian-delights-the-historical-context-of-a-christmas-carol/
https://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/health-and-safety-at-work/
https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/article/skin-undertones-foundation-guide
https://patrickta.com/blogs/articles/what-is-the-best-blush-for-darker-skin-tones
Women:
Romanticism
Modesty
Constrictive
Gothic Inspiration
Dresses have narrow arches and angles
Handmade or custom made (Sewing machines did not exist)
Corsets
Loose cloaks
Long waist, tight sleeves, full skirt that skims the skirt, Corset down to hip
Fabrics used were; Silk, cotton, wool and linen.
Patterns:
Floral
Stripes
Plaid
Rich women
Men:
Lower classes:
Sack coats
Loose trousers which were light colours, tweed or plaid.
Rich:
Tailored fit coats with large buttons
Tailored trousers
Frock with cutaway coat
Straight collared shirts
Cravat was in a bow
Hair covered ears
High collars
Costume designs for "A Christmas Carol"
For this design I wanted to keep things simple. Outside: coat and top hat, inside: a greying buttoned shirt. I chose grey because I want to show how Scrooge has simply stop caring about anything but money, the black coat and top hat is to help show his wealth.
This design is about trying to stick to the books text as much as possible which is why I have added the summer flowers along the bottom of the dress. I wanted to stick to a small amount of types, I would definitely make them out of some fabric or wool so they can be attached easy and woould not need replacing so often. I have gone with a long flowy dress to give a ghostly effect, I would want it just above the stage floor so the actor did not trip up.
For this dress I have focused on the ribbon and christmas aspect. In the book Mrs Cratchit is described as having a ribbon part of her appearance so I wanted to make that a theme. I chose red and green as they are the two colours most associated with Christmas. The material I would choose for this is silk and tulle because I think they would go nice togther with for this dress, however, I would be cautious of it it was too rich of a dress for Mrs Cratchit as she is poor.
For this design I wanted to focus ona classic traditional victorian outfit for a man that is quite well put together. I would have Scrooge in a white buttoned top, black waistcoat, top hat and for his coat I would make it long thick and blue with gold buttons (as described in the book). I want the blue to represent his icy nature as well as just making his character stand out. I would consider a velvet material for the coat as I think the shine from it as well as the rich blue colour would make it seem luxurious therefore showing how much money Scrooge has.
Again with inspiration from the book I have kept the summer flowers but they are more randomly placed this time, I wanted to see if I would prefer this to having them along the bottom. I want to keep the dress loose fititng and for it to flow out wide as it goes further down again for a ghostly effect. I would consider using a silk type material where it could give a nice shine from the lights.
For this design I wanted to focus on simple. I stuck with more muted colours like forest green and brown, I thought these would seem less rich of a colour compared to design 1. I have added a blue bow to add some personality to the dress and I felt the blue would show Mrs Cratchit's sadness (perhaps could change it to yellow at the end of the play to show she is more hopeful). I have added a little square patch to the skirt of the dress, I want it to be a deeper green so it is obvious, this is to show their struggle with money that they cannot afford to buy new clothes. For this dress I would make it a cotton or linen material because I do not want to use any material that might make it look like something someone richer would wear at that time.
I have chosen to keep this costume more traditional, combining design 1 and 2. I have added a orange dressing gown which will be a nice soft materail but the inside will be a silk red which will represent his wealth. I want the red and orange to almost show that he is currently getting too close to not being able to change that the greed and ignorance is taking over completely (red being danger). I thought it may be good to have him just wear a shirt and waistcoat as well as the coat so it is easy for the actor to chnage to the dressing gown when they are on stage.
Combining design 1 and 2, I have stuck to an ankle lenghth flowy dress with the summer flowers being larger and starting 3/4 of the way down on the dress. I have chosen to do this because I would like the flowers to be visible to all audience members and it makes the spirit stand out a lot more, easy to locate.
I really like the forest green colour for this character, as well as the red bow representing the Christmas time.I have added a white apron with the bow to show she is a hardworking mother at home. I have added the darker green patch to the dress for the same reason as in design 2.I have made the sleeves longer, I think with it being around Christmas time people would be wanting to wear warmer clothes. I have kept the dress fully forest green for a more simplistic look. I would keep the material cotton or linen as it is an easy material to work with as well as being a material that was common at the time.
Mrs Cratchit dress pattern
I spent a long time looking at different fabrics available to me at the college. I knew I wanted to make a dress for the character of Mrs Cratchit. I eventually settled on the fabric above. Initially I wanted a plain colour fabric that was cotton or linen but this was the only cotton material with enough fabric to make the dress. What I like about this fabric is that it is a nice deep burgundy kind of colour with a floral pattern (which works with the time period). I could not decide whether to make the whole dress with this pattern or if to have a palin white material as the top, I decided then to make the whole dress with floral fabric because the materials I think would have clashed to much as one is thin and shiny and the other thick and matte.
I focused here on basic shapes I needed. The fabric I have chosen I have decided to cut two long rectangular pieces because it is a small width so I decided it would look better if I cut them horizontally and sewed the sides together, the negative to this is that it would not be a full skirt like in the time period. For the front of the dress I am cutting in V shape to create a corset like effect and keep the top part rectangular because I noticed a lot of these dresses had a square neckline. Depending on time the sleeves may be short or long. Semi circle: short rectangle: long. The back of the top will also be rectangular but I would like the dress to be done up with buttons so it is easy for the actor to change costumes.
Here I am going through the rail of costumes for the show, talking about each character costume and why it has been chosen for them. We have paper stuck to costumes for each actor so they can locate costumes easily. Actor's with multiple roles have their costumes together so it minimises time spent changing into them. During dress rehearsals I noticed by the end there was no organisation to the rail as well as some costumes being on the floor or hung over the rail, this will be something to note when making a risk assessment because we do not want to risk any trips. The main thing I am concerned about is actor's struggling to find their costumes my solution to this would be to tell them if they are not wearing that costume again to fold over the rail or perhaps have achsir available to them to stack on and if they have enough time between changes to hang their costume back up. If I was not in the show I would stay backstage to help them with costume changes so in this case I would try and find someone who could help behind the scenes. We have also decided to keep the rail behind the curtain as it is quicker and easier for everyone to change costumes.
Here we discuss our designs with each other. It was really interesting because I drew mine with pencil and paper, whereas Faith made hers digitally. I thought this was really cool and inspiring for me to try it that way in the future. We definitely had some similar ideas for Scrooge and it was great experience communicating as a costume design team.
Fabric swatches
I spent some time collecting swatches, I considered the fabric, patter and texture, deciding which could work with the characters I have chosen. Additionally I thought about what would be a historically accurate fabric for the time. Below I have written which character I would use the fabric for and why.
Scrooge : shirt
Past: layer of ghost dress
This is a really nice lightweight material that reminds me of linen. I would use this as a layer on the ghost of Christmas pasts dress with the other white fabric over it because it is slightly see through I would want a couple of layers.
Mrs Cratchit: Dress
I really like this cotton material, it has a really nice deep burgundy colour as well as a nice floral pattern, this would add some nice variety to what could be very plain costumes for the rest of the cast.
Past: dress
This material is extremely lightweight, shiny and has a silky soft texture. I would use this over the dress of ghost of Christmas past to add some nice shine from the lights to give the ghost a magical aura.
Scrooge: coat or blazer
This fabric has a very nice strong teal colour which could be good for Scrooge, I imagine more richer people of the time wearing brighter colours. This colour would also make Scrooge stand out.
Mrs Cratchit: dress
I felt this would work for Mrs Cratchit perfectly because it fits the deep green idea I had for her dress, even the mismatched floral pattern.
Scrooge: blazer
this was just some plain black cotton that could work for creating the blazer, I would not be able to use this because there was a very small amount available.
Past: layer of dress
This is a very nice soft silk like material like the white, a really nice shade of blue that could possibly be used as a base layer on the ghost of Christmas pasts dress.
With rough measurements I added extra length and width so I could sew the fabric pieces together nicely and neatly folding them over slightly. I have never sewn before and it was definitely a good learning opportunity for me. I researched some videos on YouTube and used two sewing techniques which were a back stitch and a running stitch. I found the second one simpler and quicker to do. I noticed I started pretty bad, it was messy and the thread was all over the place. Later on they looked more uniform and blended with the dress better when I changed the thread to a deeper reddish pink colour.
Overall I found this project challenging at times but overall positive. I learned a lot of new skills like sewing fabric. This was challenging but by the end I was very proud of myself because I could see the progress I had made. I found researching the time period very interesting as well as the books description of character clothing because the ghosts for example each had a unique and bold outfit representing who they were. It was great working with our other costume designer who helped decide on costumes. I liked this because I got to experience working in a design team and when I do make-up it is normally just lone working and this will help me in the future if I have to work with other designers, it is definitely something I would like to do again. One of my favourite parts was putting together different items of clothing, in particular I felt Jacob Marley's costumer worked really well, it was oversized, we had the brownish top and then the chains which added to the ghostliness of the character (originally we had a bow tie but it was removed because it was uncomfortable for the actor). Very quickly I learned that just a simple accessory can elevate the character costume because as soon as we added scarves to some of the character's you can sense that it is set in a cold place.
websiteshttps://byronsmuse.wordpress.com/tag/1840s-in-fashion/ and videos used for research:
https://youtu.be/Js_5RaKN1-A?si=-Z1Dl-IWr0-XowuJ
https://youtu.be/cLW45yeCoNA?si=3lZ5AheujEtoe8yI
https://www.historicalemporium.com/mens-1840s-fashion.php?srsltid=AfmBOopkU6X4apOCMcg3qCb7yKrzGL2c-sa4QYPFnjYDSuVqA3OcZWWa