How to Make Roman Clothing

How to Make Roman Clothing - Under Construction!

This entire section needs to be revised and expanded. It will happen soon!

Making a Tunica - Getting Started

To most modern people, a tunic is a tunic. The Romans actually made distinctions between a wide variety of very specific types and styles of tunics. Some classifications appear to have been based on the layer in which the garment was worn - such as the subucula, indusium, supparus, and tunica manicata, where were all under-tunics (the underwear layer). Some classifications appear to have been based on the type or color of fabric used - such as the tunica ralla, tunica spissa, tunica purpura, and tunica pulla. Other classifications were based on the amount or type of decoration - such as the tunica angusticlavia, tunica laticlavia, or tunica patagiatus. Some other classifications were based on the gender or role of the wearer - such as the tunica talaris. There is also a classification based on method of construction of the body of the tunic - the tunica recta (straight tunic) which is made as one piece with the fold on one side of the body and a seam at the other side. Surprisingly, the classification that seems most obvious to modern costumers is the one that I have not yet found any reference to in my research - classification by shoulder treatment.

All of the Roman tunics can be grouped into one of three classifications based on shoulder treatment: Closed-shoulder Tunics, Gap-sleeved Tunics, and Single-join Tunics.

• Closed-shoulder Tunics include all the tunics constructed by sewing the shoulder seam closed and those constructed by cutting the entire body as a single piece with the fold at the shoulder. Closed-shoulder Tunics can be sleeveless, short-sleeved, or long-sleeved.
• Gap-sleeved Tunics include all the tunics that have sleeves of some length that are created by joining the shoulder-line at intervals, rather than as a solid seam. Sleeves range from full length to quite short, depending on the width of the fabric. The "joins" can be permanent (sewn) or temporary (pinned or tied) and can be embellished or very plain. Some surviving artwork appears to show the joins as little balls, or "knots" of fabric. Other artwork appears to show flat, button-like, disks that do not have any sewing holes (like modern flat buttons) and lie flat against the body (unlike modern shank button). Modern costumers tend to use various kinds of buttons, jewelry findings or beads as a substitute for these since, to my knowledge, none of these disks have been found. It's commonly stated that the gap-sleeved tunics were often worn using fibula to create the "joins", however I have not found any artwork that clearly depicts this yet. I'm still looking, so if you find something please send it my way for my collection!
• Single-join tunics include any style of tunic that uses only a single "join" at the shoulders for support. This includes the stolas worn by married ladies and the Hellenistic (Greek) style himations worn by young girls and a few "ultra-fashionable" ladies during the resurgence of Greek culture in the latter half of the 1st century CE.
• The "Arm Hole Controversy" What is the "Arm Hole Controversy"? It's the debate about where your arm is supposed to go when wearing a Roman tunic? Many sources advocate that in making one of these garments, you should sew the side seams almost all the way to the top and leave enough room between the end of the side seam and the first fibula (or other attachment method) for your arm to go through. That would make sense if these garments were made from rectangles of fabric in period, but there is evidence that many of them were actually woven as tubes of fabric (no side seams). This means that you would leave a gap at the end of your shoulder fastening large enough for the arm to fit through. Stay tuned for more information on this as I find it!
• Regardless of shoulder treatment, all Roman tunics are constructed in pretty much the same way until you get to the shoulders.

Fabric, supplies & notions:

• You will need the following items: fabric, scissors, pins, measuring tape, chalk, thread to match your fabric, and either a hand-sewing needle or sewing machineD
• Depending on which of the following you are making, you will also need the following:
  • Man's tunic - if the man is of the Equestrian or Senatorial classes (see the section on Roman Ranks & Status), you will need to add clavi (the purpura stripes at the shoulders denoting rank) to his tunic. Clavi can extend from front hem to back hem, passing over the shoulders. To make this style you will need trim, bias tape, or fabric strips equal to his Total Length (see below for how to figure this measurement) x 2. Remember, you need his Total Length for each stripe! Clavi can also be less than full length, ending anywhere between the lower chest and mid-thigh. Generally the stripes end in point or some other small decorative feature, rather than just ending with the square end of the trim or fabric strip. To figure out the length for this style of clavi, measure from the desired ending point in front, over the shoulder and down to the desired ending point in back. Be sure to add the blousing length (see below) if the clavi will end at or below the belt line! Again, you will need this length doubled - one length for each stripe. Depending on the wearer's rank, the trim, bias tape or fabric strip used will either be 1" or less wide for the Equestrian class, or 2-3" wide for the Senatorial class. The clavi should be some shade of "purpura" which can range from a purple or red so dark that it's almost black, to burgundy, scarlet, or deep red. Avoid using trims with a lot of metallic content unless you are Senatorial class and hold a high rank in the SCA. .
  • Senatorial Toga, Boys & Young Girls Togas - These togas have a wide (2-3" wide) purpura stripe around the lower edge. Because the lower edge is rounded, bias tape is the easiest and most successful way of applying this band. Later versions of the toga are longer, wider and more complicated, but they are also more angular so it would be easier to apply fancy trim as a band. These later togas have an additional piece added to the width called the sinus which can also have the purpura band on it. Given the heat and humidity of Trimaris, I don't recommend the later variations of the toga, which can be up to 18' long or longer and at least 90" wide. For a nice, modest Republican Toga, use a rope (described below) to figure out how much length you will need. Then you need enough bias tape to go around the rounded outer edge of the toga if it is being worn by a child (both boys and girls!) or a man of the Senatorial class.
  • Ladies - You can add some very simple, very narrow trim to your Tunica (your gown layer) and, maybe, to your stola. For the tunica/gown, look for simple trims that are less than about 1/8-1/4" and that are flexible enough that they won't interfere with the drape of the fabric. The trim is placed along the length of the shoulder treatment, from one edge of the fabric to the other, across the neckline. It can be on the front only, or on both the front and back edges. If your tunica will have Gap Sleeves, you will also need some fibulas, buttons, flattish beads, or jewelry findings - or you can use simply make little self-fabric knots. How many you need will depend on the width of your fabric and how long your sleeves will be, and how close together you place the fastenings. A distance of about 4" or so between fastenings seems to be fairly typical. Finally, you will need some cording, trim or fabric to use for a belt or sash.
• The fabric you use will depend on several factors:

Figuring out how much fabric you need:

• Begin by taking some basic measurements. You'll refer back to these measurements later. You need to know:
  • Length from shoulder to hem _____________ (Men & Boys - to just below the knee; Women & Girls - to floor or top of foot)
  • The measurement of your widest point ___________ (Men & Boys - usually chest or belly; Women & Girls - usually bust or hips)
    • Divide your widest point in half __________
  • How much do you want to blouse it over your belt _______ (Men & Boys - in period art the belt is often totally hidden but blousing can be anywhere from 6 - 12"; Women & Girls - most women & girls seem to wear a single belt at the high-waist/under-bust so there is only 3-6" of blousing, but sometimes you'll see a double-belted tunica with the fabric bloused over a second belt at the waist. Add additional length if you want to do this.)
    • Add the blousing length to your shoulder-to-hem measurement ____________
    • Double this measurement to get your total length ____________
• Is this the underwear layer, the tunic/gown layer, or the over-gown layer?
  • Underwear - this layer is generally much narrower through the body than the outer garments. Ideally you'll want to use use thinner fabric and/or cut the body section narrower to cut down on bulk and make your clothes more comfortable. Generally your underwear layer is also shorter than your outer layer(s).
    • An easy way to do this is to use your shoulder to hem measurement doubled, without adding extra length for blousing - this is your body length _________.
    • To find your width, take your widest point measurement and add 6-12" for ease (I usually add about 8") and divide by 2 - this is your body width_______
    • Now look at your fabric. Is the fabric width at least as wide as your body width measurement? If yes, use an amount equal to your body length. If no, multiply your shoulder-to-hem measurement by 3 and use that amount of fabric.
  • Tunic/Gown Layer - This layer is always shown as being very full in period artwork. Gathering in the volume of fabric to the body with a belt is what creates the distinctive folds associated with Roman clothing. For optimal results, the body of your tunic/gown should be at least twice as wide as your widest point. For example, if your bust/chest is your largest measurement with a measurement of 36", you ideally want your garment to measure at least 72" around or more. More is not a bad thing unless your fabric is thick or bulky!
    • Look at your fabric - is it at least as wide as your largest width measurement? If yes, use an amount equal to your Total Length Measurement from above (shoulder-to-hem + blousing x 2) __________.
      • If no, will adding 1/2 the width to your fabric do the trick? For example, if you have a bust/chest measurement of 50" and the fabric you like is 45" wide, adding a half-width of 22.5" to 45" gives you a fabric width of 67.5" (minus a tiny bit for seams) which is more than wide enough. In this case, use your shoulder-to-hem + blousing x 3 for your fabric amount ____________.
      • Some really lovely specialty fabrics only come in very narrow widths, such as some of the hand-woven silks that you can special order from Thailand and some amazing cotton prints from India. In this case, keep adding additional half-widths to your calculations until your get to the required width. Don't worry - we'll deal with how to join the fabric widths together in the sewing instructions!
  • Stola (Over-gown) Layer - Everything stated for the gown/tunic layer also applies to the over-gown layer except for length. Contemporary literary sources mention that married women's stolas cover the feet. They are also shown in contemporary artwork as being worn with a visible belt under the bust, and a second (hidden) belt at the waist or hips that allows the excess length to be bloused down to the upper-t0-mid-thigh level.
    • Be sure to account for the extra length needed to double belt and blouse your stola in your length measurement.
    • As with the tunic/gown above, you ideally want your stola to be at least twice as wide as your widest measurement, so use the same steps as listed for the tunic/gown layer, but with your new length measurement if it will not be floor length.
  • Toga & Palla - Generally a late Republican Toga for an adult man is about 12' long (4 yards). A full size palla for an adult woman is about the same length or a bit longer (I like mine about 15' or 5 yards long), although there is also a smaller palla (the mafortium) that is somewhat shorter. Ideally, the toga or palla should be about 54-60" wide though the mafortium may have been a little narrower so I would guess that 45" wide fabric would work for one of these. Since people who are shorter or thinner may need less length to achieve a nice drape than someone who is taller or heavier, you can measure how much fabric you need using a length of rope or trim. Drape the rope around yourself like a toga/palla, mark the end and then measure how much rope you used. The ends of togas and pallas generally come down to mid-calf or so in front and back and are sometimes shown to be floor length. It's difficult to distinguish a mafortium in the extant art, but I would guess that the ends of the mafortium only came to about the mid-thigh or knee.