Calontir Clothing Challenge Entry

The Calontir Clothing Challenge is an unofficial SCA activity that is the brainchild of HL Zaneta Baseggio of the SCA Kingdom of Calontir, and Calontir’s KMoAS (Kingdom Minister of Arts & Sciences) Mistress Kristine Nic Tallier. The Challenge is a historical costuming competition that runs from October 1st, 2020 to February 1st, 2021. For more information about the Calontir Clothing Challenge, check out their homepage, Facebook page, and the competition guidelines which can be found here - Entrant Information.

As part of the Challenge, each entrant has an official Entrant Page. Mine can be found here - Marcia Dulcitia. In addition to the official entrant pages, entrants in the Challenge are permitted blog about our entries on our own blog or website, which is what I plan to do here!

ADVANCED · HISTORIC ADVANCED · HISTORICALLY FOCUSED

Marcia Dulcitia

Location: Barony of An Crosaire, Trimaris

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Advanced

Project: I will be creating the attire worn by Roman patrician women during the reign of Augustus and Livia, the first Roman Emperor and Empress, c. 1 CE. This will be based off the extant images, especially statuary, depicting Empress Livia and other Roman noblewomen of that time. My Roman persona is actually based almost a century later, during the reign of Hadrian and Vibia Sabina, but as I continue to research ancient Rome I find myself increasingly drawn to Livia Augusta. One of Emperor Augustus’ chief goals from the beginning of his reign was to restore Rome and the Roman people to their ancient glory. He felt strongly that the faith, morals, and values of Rome had decayed, and with it the strength of the Empire. He realized that in order to rebuild Rome he had to revive the customs and traditions of the past, and restore the faith and values of its people. A large part of his attention was focused on the public and private lives of the upper classes. Together, Augustus and Livia became the role models that they expected the Roman nobles to emulate. Livia, especially, set the pattern for the noble Roman matrona – wearing neither excessive jewelry nor pretentious clothing. She took care of the household and her husband, made most of the family’s clothing herself, observed all the public and private religious rites, was renowned for her chastity and faithfulness, and was known to also be educated and intelligent enough to become one of Augustus’ advisors. Ancient sources generally portray Livia as a woman of proud and queenly attributes who was a worthy consort to her husband – forever poised and dignified. A woman I would wish to emulate.

Challenge Rules

• • Four layers will be required to complete the challenge. Each layer must be a separate item, but may be multiple items if you choose. Each item may only be attributed to one layer.
  • Layer 1 – Underwear: Chemise, braes, undertunic, etc
    1. My Layer 1 will consist of: a strophium (bust band), subligar (leather underpants - though these were not typically worn under women's clothing), and an indusium (under tunic or slip worn by matrons)
  • Layer 2 – Main or Under Layer: kirtle, tunic and trousers, doublet and trousers, etc.
    1. My Layer 2 will consist of: a gap-sleeved tunica, stola (matron's overgown), cingillum (woman's belt), and caestus (belt worn just below the bust)
  • Layer 3 – Outer Layer: sideless surcoat, cotte, cloak, coat, armor, tabard, etc.
    1. My Layer 3 will consist of: a palla
  • Layer 4 – Accessories: This layer is wiiiide open for interpretation. Perhaps it is a garment accessory like a pouch, belt, or hat. Perhaps it is an accessory for your camp like a table, rug, or new pottery set. Perhaps it is a new shield or weapon. Perhaps it’s a painted backdrop to use at an event to cover a modern item. Perhaps you’ve cooked yourself a feast!
    1. Obvious accessories for this outfit are jewelry (necklace, elenchi (earrings), armillae (bracelets), shoes (sandals or closed shoes), and/or a parasol. While these are necessary elements to complete the outfit, I'm not sure that they would meet the criteria for Layer 4. A pair of nalbound udones (socks) might work. I could also weave the cingillum and caestus, and possibly the strophium. I might need to make something else though. I'll have to think on it.
  • At least one layer must be of a different craft than the other three. In most cases, this will be the ‘accessory layer’ but it doesn’t have to be.
    1. Example: If layers 1-3 are sewn garments, layer 4 may not be a sewn bag or hat. It must be a different discipline.
    2. It is possible to have a garment layer be of another discipline (say, layer 3 being an maile or knitted layer) but the other discipline MUST be the primary focus of the garment. An embroidered neckline is not enough to consider the garment as another discipline, it must be a heavily embroidered garment to meet the criteria. There may be grey areas – if you have a question, ask.

• This Category is aimed at making the most historically accurate projects possible.
• While we don’t require documentation for this challenge, inspiration pieces, especially for any aspects which are rare and/or controversial, are highly recommended.
• Construction seams may be machine sewn, but all visible stitches must be hand-done. Fully hand constructed garments may score better.
• Embellishments are period and hand done. Embellishments (ex. woven trim or and embroidered decoration) do NOT have to be hand done by the entrant, though entrant-made embellishments may score better, especially in higher levels.
• Documentable choices in fabrics and materials are a must, though substitutions for dangerous or prohibitively expensive items are allowed.
• Clothing must be documentable and any heraldry used in a historic fashion/depiction.
• Judging weighs historical accuracy more heavily than creativity or complexity
• Documentation may not be required, but since there aren't any extant items and the inspiration artwork is subject to interpretation, research and documentation are going to be necessary. I'm actually revisiting much of what I already know/believe about Roman clothing of this period because I've found more sources which (naturally) contradict each other. This project is providing me with a good excuse to revisit my research on these topics.

• You’ve made many accurate garments and feel completely comfortable with the techniques needed -OR- you want to stretch your abilities from Intermediate to Advanced.
• You have drafted or draped your own pattern based on the specific measurements of the individual.
• Most layers have multiple items to them.
• Many embellishments to the garment and/or the garment is of a very complex design
• I'm a little concerned about this. As a Laurel elevated Elizabethan Costuming (back when I had an Elizabethan persona) it wouldn't be right for me to enter as anything less than "Advanced." On the other hand, Roman clothing doesn't have anywhere near the complexity in design, construction, or embellishment of later periods. The biggest challenges with this period are in research and replication when there is very little evidence, and much of what exists is subject to many interpretations. I need to think about the ways I can increase the complexity of the project.