[NEW] Download Camera Afterfocus

Now on a nice bright sunny day go outside and take several (the more the better) random shots of lots of different things. Trees, buildings, parks, cityscape, cars, people just random stuff. You don't even need to look at the LCD screen during this test. Now u/l to your computer and check out the photos. If they are nice and OK there is nothing wrong with your gear. That means the problem is either your technique or incorrect settings. If the photos are still blurry, you have a lens problem or camera issue. Keep in mind you must do these steps above exactly as I have stated them. Do not vary and make sure you do each one exactly.

I am playing with the iPhone camera in my app but I could not find a way to take manual control over the timing of re-focusing. In my app, I hope to ensure the best-adjusted image output so a forced re-focus right before taking a shot is needed. More specifically, I would like force the camera to re-focus after the user to hit a button, then take a shot once the re-focusing is complete. What would be the best way to implement this?

Download Camera Afterfocus

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The basic concept is pretty simple. You focus on the closest thing to the camera, then focus on the farthest object, and then center the focusing ring halfway in between those distances. Not halfway out in the field, but halfway between the distance marks on the lens.

To change that you can either just manually adjust the f-stop to your widest aperture to focus (and then reset it to take the picture), or, in the menu, under Live View Display, turn the Setting Effect to Off, which makes the camera behave like an SLR by keeping the diaphragm open until you press the shutter. (Note that I recommend usually having the Setting Effect on, so that you get a live preview of your exposure. I put the Live View Display menu item in my Function menu for quick access, so I can turn the Setting Effect off and back on when needed.)

My current camera, an Olympus, actually has a setting that can determine the behaviour when the camera is turned off. All my previous cameras, as far as I can remember, left the lens in the MF position. It may be something to do with the type of AF motor/mechanism in the lens. I think that some recent lenses for AF use a moving coil mechanism similar to that in a loudspeaker.

Every autofocus lens has a motor (or a motor in the camera body). Whether it's focus by wire or using direct drive with a clutch, if the camera is designed to park/reset the lens when the camera is turned off it will do that.

Fine if you don't require autofocus, and your camera has an aid to tell you when a manual focus lens is focused...it's not like the old days when you had a split circle and/or microprism on the focusing screen that shows you when the lens is in focus!

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When shooting basketball, I started with a DSLR (Nikon D800), then switched to a mirrorless (Sony A7R), then to a medium format (Phase One DF+ with IQ250 back, later upgraded to an XF with an IQ3-100 back). With all of these cameras, focus has been an issue, though less with the Nikon than the Sony, and less with the Sony than the Phase Ones. The reason I switched cameras is that although focus became more and more difficult, image quality went up. Since I was able to capture so many images, I felt that I could afford to lose a few if the end result was a few excellent, as opposed to good, shots.

If I switch to the Ultra-wide, the 3x tele, or the 10x tele, they all work exactly as expected and are in focus/can focus on other subjects with a tap. If I bring my hand up close to the lens and Focus Enhancer turns on (which I understand is just the phone switching to the ultra-wide), everything comes into focus, but then when I remove my hand it returns to the main camera and is out of focus.

After the July (AUFD) release also failed to make any change, I connected with Samsung and they suggested it may be a hardware failure. Brought it in to the local repair center where it was covered under warranty, and they replaced the main (108MP) camera module.

I tried out the R7 in-camera focus stacking, and am very happy with the result. I should say, of course, that I am interested in how my images look to normal people at normal display sizes and normal viewing distances. I'm sure there will be some (one or two at least), who would look at these results and immediately moan about all kinds of objectionable artefacts. This post is not for them. A recent post on this forum served the useful function of bringing two such people to each other's attention. It's nice that they found each other, and they can happily decry to each other the terrible results that other people are actually quite happy with. What I am amazed about with this feature on the R7 is just how easy it is to use, and produce results that I like (as does everyone else who has seen them so far, most of whom are not obsessive pixel peepers). My previous forays into focus stacking were done with the focus bracketing on my M6II on a tripod. I then loaded the files (anywhere from 15 to 30 of them) into Lightroom, and sent them to open as layers in Photoshop. In PS I performed two separate operations on the layers (first aligning, then merging), flattened the layers, and saved the resulting image. With this image from my R7 I set the camera to take 25 images, handheld. It took under a second to take all 25 images, and then around 20 seconds to produce the stacked JPEG. I cropped it a bit, and enhanced a bit in Lightroom. Here's a web-sized version:

As far as I know, the R7 is the first Canon camera to perform the whole stacking procedure in camera (though you can do it manually if you want--the camera also saves all the RAW files). To me, it's like magic.

Images where part of the object sits a bit in front of something behind it is my challenge at times - even in a simple flower or insect shot like the below which is ~ 12 images - Helicon with some tweaking. DPP seems not bad but in camera great for speed if it works well!

It does, if you instruct it to. When 'depth compositing' is enabled, the camera will save the individual pictures (which can be RAW) and generate a JPEG composite. So you can still bring the individual pictures into DPP4/Helicon Focus/Zerene/Photoshop to get higher quality result, but the JPEG is a fast way to see if you need to redo the stack.

Thank you.

You know, I use my camera set to Swedish, not because I don't understand English, but just because you can. But the Swedish translation of Depth compositeis so far fetched that I didn't realize what it meant.

Thanks for posting this report. I have used focus bracketing on the R5 a lot to make sure I get at least one perfectly focused image. But I have never had the motivation to try focus stacking multiple images in post. Now that I know it works in camera on the R7, I will give it a try. ff782bc1db