Perusing Peru - Eden's Tour of Taricaya

Tari-whatnow? I hear you ask. Allow me, dear reader, to broaden your intellectual horizons (specifically with regards to South American ecoreserves). Taricaya is the name of a non-profit association located at the Southern end of the Peruvian Amazon and dedicated to conservation of the native biodiversity. It also happens to be where I spent a significant chunk of my summer last year. I feel, therefore, that I am quite well placed to tell you a little about more about it and – if you’ll indulge me – to give you some insight into my experience at the reserve.

Starting, as is only right, with all things cute and fluffy! Not that putting it like that is really helping them with their cause; Taricaya is largely a rescue centre for animals confiscated from the illegal pet trade. The reserve acts as a stepping stone for these animals, who undergo a rehabilitation programme before – in most cases – being released back into the wild. Until that day arrives, however, they leave plenty of work to be done by the likes of me and other volunteers. During these daily rituals of feeding and enclosure cleaning, there is a chance to get to know the Taricaya residents rather well. It would be completely criminal of me, therefore, not to introduce you to a few of the most charismatic among them. For brevity, I’ll do a top 3:

Starting (for no particular reason) with Kusi! Kusi is a giant otter (Pteronura brasiliensis) who is now in pre-release stages following extensive rehabilitation. Giant otters are an endangered mammal species endemic to South America. They are carnivorous, and Kusi required fish to be caught daily on his behalf. I don’t know much about his backstory, but he was always over the moon at feeding time and made it known to all through his extensive (and thoroughly entertaining) honking sounds, meriting his place on this top 3 list. 

Next up… Kia! The black spider monkey (Ateles chamek), a species otherwise extinct in the lower Madre de Dios region (where the reserve is located). This is due to hunting by humans as well as extensive habitat loss. The population is now re-establishing thanks to the reserve, and Kia was actually born at Taricaya. She was, therefore, thoroughly at ease in human company; perhaps a little too at ease as every time I saw her she would attempt to steal one of my possessions, usually one I was wearing! She didn’t get to keep my necklaces alas but her bold moves did earn her this spot on my top 3. 

And last but definitely not least, contender for love of my life… Dominga! The beautiful spectacled bear (Tremarctos ornatus) who was one of two at the reserve - the other being a more glamorous-but-also-sassier creature named Sabina. As with many X factor winners, Dominga made the cut for this top 3 due to her heartbreaking backstory. She and her sister were originally rescued – like a lot of bears – from the entertainment industry. They were placed in a reserve near Taricaya where Dominga witnessed her sister suffer a fatal accident. The resulting stress gave Dominga alopecia, and she had to be moved to Taricaya where she remains to this day. I would make it my business to feed the bears (partially because there was less chopping to do) and Dominga was a sweetheart who would never make trouble. I am told that with recent dietary amendments, her hair is now starting to grow back! Spectacled bears are listed as a vulnerable species in decline, so it was an honour to get to spend so much time with one up close.

Feeding bears aside, my tasks at Taricaya consisted of all sorts, from filling a giant crate with sand (as part of their yearly turtle project) to going out butterfly catching (which felt very Charlie and Lola). My favourite activity would have to be picking bananas for the kitchen. Well, I say ‘picking’; we were equipped with actual machetes and were essentially slicing down whole trees, as each trunk will only ever grow one bunch. The stems are quite watery though, and easily cut through with the likes of a machete, the result being a very satisfying afternoon of releasing a lifetime’s worth of pent-up feelings in what I have come to term ‘banana therapy’.

And while we’re on activities, Bird-banding also gets an honourable mention. This involved opening mist nets in the early morning and identifying and ringing the bird species caught over several hours. It sounds a little cruel, but the birds are handled by a trained expert and are released immediately afterwards. The practice is imperative for understanding the local biodiversity, and the highlight for me was seeing a tiny hawk (Accipiter superciliosus) up close. This species is neither rare nor particularly endangered, but I simply wasn’t aware that birds of prey could come so small! Delightful, but not if you’re a hummingbird.

And that about rounds off the trip! One thing that I was particularly struck by was how similar the Amazon was to the forests of home. Part of me had assumed – largely from geography lessons and nature documentaries – that the rainforest would be some completely alien wilderness, the likes of which I’d never seen. But no, a tree is a tree and – though different species are knocking about – the feel of the place is much like the forests of the UK. That is not to say the experience wasn’t a novelty though; The rainforest is much noisier, and it’s not uncommon to see a troupe of spider-monkeys passing overhead!

For that reason, as well as the wonderful array of activities mentioned, I would be doing Taricaya a disservice if I didn’t recommend volunteering there (no one is paying me to say this I swear). If you can save up enough funds for the flight to Peru, it’s a unique and fulfilling experience where you’ll meet some excellent people and even better animals. You might even end up writing a blog post about it a year later, who knows.