The Galician Coast, total of 751,7 km
Galicia, July 2022 (E-bike)
(North to South), 259,1km
Vilagarcia de Arousa-Illa de Arousa, 31,1km
Ilha de Arousa-Aldán, 108km
Aldán-Góian-Cerveira, 120km
Galicia, August 2024 (E-bike)
(South to North), 465,6km
Vilagarcia de Arousa-Praia de Cabio 54,5km
Day 1 (1/2 day) Beautiful paths, especially from Vilagarcía to Catoira, alternating with not so busy main roads. Started with fog in the Ria of Arousa, but it progressively got better. Great to pass Rianxo. Stayed in a camping site in a beautiful location, right by the beach. Cooked a nice meal. Yet it was a terrible night, with families shouting until very, very late. It rained heavily in the middle of the night.
Praia de Cabio-Boiro 71,8km
Day 2 In the morning it was grey and packing was tricky. Just a little before all was ready torrential rain started. I took shelter in a nearby beach café and waited for about one hour. The route is beautiful from here, always with the island of Salvora watching me. Small towns, fishing harbors, very interesting and varied landscapes: Ribeira, Porto San, Porto Sin being the most important. Stayed in a camping site right in front of the sea, and it was a peaceful place. Cooked rice again, and later I drank a glass of red wine and ice cream. I slept well.
Boiro-Praia de Lariño, 49,5km
Day 3 It was fast going, too much asphalt and main roads. In Noia I had coffee, and there was a market along the river. There was also one of these summer festivities and I could see myself already eating some pulpo for lunch, but it was too early. I didn't eat either in Muros, which was in my mind. I found a place some kilometers after, near Playa de San Francisco, and had a nice picanha. As I did not eat the whole thing, it was great to have it again, this time again with rice! I spoke to a nice couple who were from a town in the camiño going to Finisterra/Muxia, very near Casa Pepa, where we stayed in December. Cycled to and back the lighthouse further ahead (Faro de Monte Louro), and what a beautiful road. Then I stayed in a lovely campsite (Ancoradoiro), the best of this trip. Quiet, clean and very organized, near the beautiful beaches of Lariño and Area Maior.
Praia de Lariño-Finisterra, 57,3km
Day 4 Did not leave particularly early as the sleep was very good. I also knew the day would not be too long, as I wanted to stay in Finisterra. There is an interesting hotel at the lighthouse of Lariño. In Carnota I checked the espigueiro – horreo (I had been here before) and ate a napolita bought with a bakery with a café au lait in the café next door. Passed the beautoful Beach of Pindo and made the detour to check Ézaro's fall. Apparently, the Ézaro River is the only one in Spain, and one of a few in Europe, to fall directly into the sea as a waterfall. Honestly, I thought it would be more interesting, but perhaps I was just tired. I skipped lunch at Cee and Corcubion, and I ate beautifully at a bakery just before Finisterra. Fantastic cod empanada!! I stayed in Arasolis hostel... ok, but clean. Two friendly Hungarian and Argentine pilgrims, a French family (father and two children) who walked 10 days each year for the past 10 years to complete now Le Puy to Finisterra! Unfortunately, I ate poorly at Lecer restaurant. A cheap menu of €15 in a touristic place!
Fiisterra-Camelle, 57km
Day 5 It was a tough day. I started by going to Faro de Fisterra, and then making my way to Muxía. It's a good feeling to say hello to some pilgrims and re-experience the path we walked in December. I stopped in Lira for a coffee, at the LiresCa Hotel & Restaurante. Not particularly friendly. In Muxia I charged the bike battery for 45 minutes, as I wasn’t sure where I was going to end on that day. I called an Albergue in Camelle, and I booked a bed in a 4 bed dormitory. I was happy not to have to pitch the tent again. On the way I passed some wonderful beaches, but there were also lots of climbs, and even a dog attack! Had to jump off the bike and protect myself with it, blocking the big dog! The Refuxio do Naufrago, the name of the Albergue in Camelle is very good, and if it weren't for the unfriendly walker who nored like a truck all night, it would have been perfect! I had dinner with a German-French couple (Christian & Anne) - beautiful stingray stew, an albarinho and a mencia, at the Rotterdam Bar/Restaurant.
Camelle-Camelle, 50km
Day 6 The day before I had to skip the peninsula around Camelle (could not do about 100km – battery and legs), so I went around on this day. Small Arau village first, then a small fishing port of Santa Mariña, lovely beaches names Playa de Trece, which I could only see at a distance (only for walkers), and after the English cemetery. Nice beaches afterwards and then the incredible Faro de Cabe Vilán, which includes a museum, Had to push the bike on a steep slope full of gravel and eventually arrived, under rain, in Camarinhas. Saw a few walkers doing the camiño dos Faros. Went back to Camelle on the main asphalt road, which was quick, and at night, for diner, went back to Rotterdam. I had the room to myself, so the night was quiet!!
Camelle-Filgueira, 59,2km
Day 7 Cycled 60km. Leaving Camelle through the mountains could have been a mistake, and perhaps I could pass in the walking path along the shore. Road was quite difficult, climbing up and then descending to Traba beach. Light rain. The most beautiful but toughest part followed, when I took the faros road to Laxe. Really amazing. Sections around Lodeiro are beautiful to cycle, and it was easy to get to Ponteceso. Battery and Legs prevented me from going around the peninsula. Also the walking path was not suitable for the bike, so I went up by road to almost Niñons, from where it was easy to get to Malpica. Arrival in Malpica is interesting, and Feismo galego was really present! I saw two beaches before but I had to get away from the coast :( From Malpica to the campsite in Sisargas it was quick. Dinner with lentils from Froiz and two 2 glasses of red at the bar. Friendly people, nice quiet site, quite cold now at night.
Filgueira-A Coruña, 66,3km
Day 8 Quite a tough day, with 1300 meters of ascent and 1300 meters of descent! Sometimes had to push the bike in small narrow paths going up. Battery was at the limit. I managed to go a lot along the coast, but sometimes at a high price. Arriving at Razo was nice and found a friendly bakery at Arnela. Showed them that there was a path here: via Céltica, and they were surprised. Loved Caión, a sort of miniature Peniche. Arteixo, where Inditex is based is crap. Thermoelectric, wastewater treatment plant, bad smell, trucks, a road cut...it is the dark and necessary side of territories!! Closer to A Coruña, things get more organized. Arriving in the city is interesting... leaving not so much. I sleept in a camping site which is located on a beautiful stop, on the rich outskirts of the city, Bastiagueiro...beautiful houses, good beach. Site is not so nice (people, bathrooms, facilities). I went to gadis, bought some nice Galician meat and had a nice dinner, followed by a glass of Mencia.
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(Return trip, inland, north to South), 147,3km
A Coruña-Hospital de Bruma, 51,8km
Day 9 I returned to A Coruña in the morning, now on a cycling trail next to the estuary. What a difference! The city is very interesting, with the Galician windows, imposing buildings, the port, marina...Also cycled to the Hércules lighthouse. Very windy! Then I started the Camiño Ingles, at the tourist office, and then at the Santiago church. I took a slightly different route from the official one, and went further along the river. Much better. There were nice parts on this route, along rural road and churches. But then, before this camiño meets the one coming from Ferrol, there is a slope that goes up 400 meters! Very steep and tough. The battery went too quickly and I had to safe in order to arrive in Hospital de Bruma. The private albergue was full but I got a bed in the public albergue run by the Xunta. Not a great albergue and no atmosphere! Diner was nice tough, at the nearby Casa de Bruña: Caldo Galego ad Rosted Chicken. Mot particularly friendly. Night was terrible, perhaps the worse, which snorers, but especially mosquitos. Got up at 4.30 am as I could not stand being in the dorm!
Hospital de Bruma-Pontecesures, 68,5km
Day 10. Perhaps the easiest day of cycling and with the spin after arrival, I clocked 80 km. Loads of descents, lots of asphalt, and a good part before Padron, on the road, at about 40-50 km/h. I passed Santiago but did not stay long in the always busy Square. It looked like a circus. The amount of people and the Instagram rituals made me go away quickly. After Santiago there were hundreds of pilgrims on the Camiño Portugues. Oh my god! It was market day in Padron and the town was pretty busy. At the albergue in Pontecesures, run by the Xunta, I asked to set up the tent in the garden so that was great. Curious how in this hostel there are lots of empty places!!! I guess pilgrims are afraid of not having a place to stay so they book private albergues. I met a Norwigian couple who were friendly and we ended up exchanging information and having a chat. Unfortunately, I had a very poor dinner at Carabela restaurant (terrible shrimps, average squid, bad wine, so bad that I sent it back).
Pontecesures-Vilagarcia de Arousa, 27km
Day 11 (1/4 day) In the morning I met the pilgrims coming off the boat on the Camiño Espiritual. That was fun! The camiño is not particularly beautiful until reaching the estuary, just before Catoira. Next to the river, there is a wooden path along the estuary of the river Ulla. After a few kilometers of asphalt, I returned to the ria, and slowly made my way to Vilagarcía, where I arrived at 11:30am.