Intro

Welcome to Snowsong's Sewing School.  Here you will find a variety of useful techniques and tricks for working with fabrics and needlework.

Dying Synthetic Fabric

How to dye synthetic fabric, if you have to!

Sometimes you just can't find the thing you need in a natural fiber and you have to use a synthetic. Keep the following in mind if you need to dye a synthetic fabric:

- You CANNOT dye acetate. Sorry :( It's a bummer for everyone but it just does not take dye. Check the fiber content of your fabric before you buy--make sure its something like rayon, nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex, etc-- all of these will work! 

- You will need a special dye for synthetics such as Rit Dyemore or iDye Poly. You can get both of these at Joanns. (ProTip: you can actually use regular natural dye for nylon or rayon as these mimic natural fibers)

- As previously mentioned, doing an ombre dye on synthetic fabric is very difficult, though not totally impossible. 

-Dyeing a solid color on synthetic isn't so bad if you are patient. If you have dyed a natural fiber fabric before, you may expect it to take the color immediately. Synthetic doesn't work that way - the entire piece of fabric has to get to a certain temperature before it starts to take the color.

Check out this link for a written and video tutorial using Rit Dyemore and the stove top method:

https://www.ritdye.com/instructions/how-to-use-dyemore-for-synthetic-fibers/?fbclid=IwAR00X3_lvrCPKf3Sn5L7t0HhPYMd1y6zA7_9H6xWBvPG6peucd933iCg800

Silk

I feel like when we hear "silk" we think it must be really fancy and expensive, and therefore out of reach for hobbyists, but it doesn't have to be!

I want to be realistic here and say that it is still on average a bit more expensive than cotton or synthetic fabrics, and it isn't even the best choice for some projects. That said, the advantages of using silks include that it is generally lightweight, breatheable, drapes very nicely and takes dye easily. Some weaves of silk have a particular look to it that you just can't get from synthetic fabric, and which is needed for some historical projects. The disadvantage is it cannot be washed regularly, stains easily, and (sometimes) the price tag. Synthetic fabric also comes in interesting weaves, patterns, and finishes that can be really fun for fantasy costumes, and which just don't come in a silk.

That said, synthetic fabric is not always cheaper. In my experience, the average price of new, good quality synthetic fabric is at least $8/yard, and if you know where to look you can get silk about the same price!

When buying silk, i HIGHLY recommend buying online. If you look for it in a physical store, you will almost always end up paying more (even at stores that usually have good deals such as Joanns or Colorado Fabrics).

Here are some of my favorite places to buy silk:

Dharma Trading: This is absolutely the cheapest place to buy silk, the cheapest being only about $4/yd, and genuine velvet at $18/yd is nearly UNHEARD OF. Dharma mostly has white fabrics meant to be dyed, but they do have habotai (AKA china silk), chiffon, and crepe satin in a variety of colors as well! 

https://www.dharmatrading.com/fabric/silk/silk-fabrics.html

Silk Baron: On the spendier side, but they have every color and weave under the sun, readily available swatches, and extremely high quality fabrics.

https://www.silkbaron.com/default.asp

Ichiroya: This is my go-to for kimono fabrics. Kimono fabric is typically similar to crepe, but often have motifs such as flowers and scenery woven into the fabric, which can be a nice touch for some fabrics. Fabric bolts vary a lot in price, but if you're quick you can sometimes get a whole bolt (12+ yards or enough to make a whole kimono) for about $30 + shipping. Keep in mind that kimono bolts are very narrow (14.5" wide).

https://www.ichiroya.com/item/search.php…

If you can't find what you need from these sites, use them as a price reference and look on eBay, Etsy, or individual fabric wholesale sites. Most eBay and Etsy vendors are nice and have a way for you to request swatches!

The Following section is courtesy of Elizabeth Emerson Designs

SILK: TO WASH OR NOT TO WASH?

(Or the care and feeding of silk)

Background:

Silk is a proteinaceous fiber from the cocoon of the silkworm. I like to think of it as very very fine strands of hair. The same things that cause irreparable damage to hair, like chlorine, UV light, and over washing, does irreversible damage to silk. Oxidizing agents like bleach and OxiClean are the main culprits I find behind severe textiles damage. OxiClean the supreme oxidizer (it turns into highly reactive free oxygen) is especially damaging, if I see another recommendation to use this stuff on vintage silk textiles, so help me. Hypochlorite (household bleach) is damaging for a number of reasons, but with silks especially the chemical oxidizer in bleach binds to the silk fiber itself, and no amount of rinsing in water will fully remove remove it (it needs a secondary rinse in special chemical baths). Oxidizing agents work by breaking the same bonds in a chromophore (stain), as are present in silk, so it’s a battle between stain removal and dissolving your fabric. Note silk is extremely fine and doesn't have a lot of bonds to break before the strand snaps. You can't fix this damage. Ever. So shattering silk is a done deal. There is no going back.

pH:

The pH scale measures how acidic or basic a substance is. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14. A pH of 7 is neutral. A pH less than 7 is acidic. A pH greater than 7 is basic. The pH scale is logarithmic and as a result, each whole pH value below 7 is ten times more acidic than the next higher value. For example, pH 4 is ten times more acidic than pH 5 and 100 times (10 times 10) more acidic than pH 6. So people don’t feel there is a big difference between “small” pH changes, but a shift from 6 to 8 is actually a 100 fold shift! 5 to 8 is 1000 times different. These are HUGE changes when considering something fragile.

Significant shifts in pH can cause serious harm to silk fibers, because the protein bonds are weak and susceptible to breakage. We are also obsessed with acids. Acid free boxes, paper, etc, but bases are just as detrimental. If you have ever used Draino, you usually use it to dissolve hair in the pipes. Silk is very similar to hair and the lye in Draino is a very strong base. So beware of a false sense of security when evaluating pH values on products.

Day to day damage:

Daily wear, without garment protection (pit guards, chemises, pantaloons, etc) causes more fiber stress than most anything else. Note linen absorbs approximately 5 times the moisture per weight as cotton, and is my preferred undergarment fabric for that reason. The Victorians didn’t have specialty dry cleaning*, and silk pre 1900 was a hot mess for color bleed so water was (usually) out. They literally cared for the fabric by not getting sweat on it, airing it out, and using fullers earth (powdered bentonite clay, which is available online). They also avoided conditions of wear resulting in permanent color change. Our sweat can significantly change the pH of fabrics as well as it has oils that discolor and weaken silk (and other fibers too), stick antiperspirant (deodorant) is hard on fabric due to the oils and chemicals that can’t be removed- often even with dry cleaning. Note that antiperspirant is different than deodorant. Antiperspirants contain aluminum and physically stop, or decrease the production of sweat, deodorant allows you to sweat freely, but are antiseptic and hinder odor causing bacteria. If you perspire or spill anything on your silk item, clean the garment as soon as possible (liquids should be blotted immediately). Also, apply fragrance, deodorant and hair spray before dressing to prevent fiber damage and staining, or cut a hole in a cheap top sheet and wear it as your hair is being done. Not to plug a product but I have formulated a dry powder antiperspirant- it has aluminum - that has no oils in it and is much more costume safe. I use it underarm, back, neck, and underbust for outdoor events. It has really saved my new corset. https://elizabethemersondesigns.com/…/rose-dusting-powder-2…

Areas of your silk garment that are repeatedly rubbed during wear may lose it’s finish creating a dissimilar appearance. The edges or folds of lapels, hems, collars, and cuffs may show loss of the finish as well as the seat, waist, inner thigh and elbows. The best bet is to use a biased self fabric hem tape or layering fabrics so that the outter layer can be replaced. A lot of what we see as superfluous piping, trimming, etc, in the Victorian era was born out of necessity, it helped to change how the fabric wore, and allowed certain areas to be more easily replaced. Women would keep dress scraps with their gowns for repair and replacement of worn areas.

Water washing:

Washing silk at home can result in shrinkage, limpness, and considerable fading, even in cold water, and there is no good rule of thumb to determine what it will do with water. Spot testing isn’t exactly full proof, but really the only way to test a garment. You would take a diluted version of your cleaner I recommend Orvus or and anionic cleanser (often hard to get outside of the museum industry). Orvus (pure sodium lauryl sulfate) is slightly basic, but to me is far preferred over, Woolite, shampoo (which is highly fluffed up Orvus), or most other store bought cleaners. Note the older the original fiber the higher the water damage risk, as it wasn’t designed to really be washed. (Think of old silk like a Gremlin- no water or food stains). The silk fibers were highly chemically treated during processing, weaving, and dyeing. Many silk dyes during the Victorian area were extremely harsh, which is one reason black silk is often found shattering, it was processed to within an inch of its life. Dyes also often consisted of toxic heavy metals like arsenic, cyanide, cadmium, and other things that caused significant health problems. 

For more modern silks, the issues surrounding processing really don’t go away. Silk is exposed to numerous chemicals for processing and dyeing. And while dyeing has come a long way, silk dyes still are not very fast, and tend to bleed and fade in water. Even some supposedly “washable” silk dyes do not react well to water. Oftentimes vibrant colors fade in washing or multi-colored dyes will run into each other. So in an inconspicuous spot, test the solution you will use, and rinse (allowing it to fully dry). You will often find waterspotting and bleeding.

If your fabric seems to be doing well with spot testing then mix up a warm dilute solution of whatever item you need to launder. I prefer to use the bath tub as I can easily do a number of water changes. I mix up my surfactant and ensure its fully mixed into the water. With Orvus I do this in a small bowl with a cup of water and a whisk. I then add this to the bath water. Silk should be washed by hand. Water softens the silk fiber significantly, which does a few things. It opens the cuticle of the fiber (like your hair) and exposes the dye and the bonds holding the silk expand and become weaker. For these two reasons you want to blot water through the fiber repeatedly, without scrubbing as it will chafe easily (breaking fibers) or develop light areas if rubbed while wet (from dye loss). Rinse repeatedly with changes of cold water, pushing water through the fabric to fully clean out the surfactant. For minor spills only blot don’t rub. If its a colored liquid the best bet is to get a dry towel, place underneath, and blot out as much of the liquid as you can, followed by cold water. Remember blotting is a gentle but firm tapping motion, so no side to side action.

Dry Cleaning:

Silk usually responds well to dry cleaning. Make sure your dry cleaner is experienced with silks. Also ask to see if they do a chemical spot check. This is where they apply a small amount of cleaner to an inconspicuous place. This is critical in case it changes your sheen. Dry cleaning caveat! I have a lot of comments about dry cleaning "ruining" silk. The dry cleaning is not the cause, your dry cleaner ruined it. Sheen striping is from over exposure to the solvent. A good dry cleaner with silk experience will return a spotless shimmering gown, or they will have spot tested and ensured that there is no change. If there is a change they will stop and address it with the client. Don’t feel afraid to ask about their experience and if they spot check. Note I don't generally use PERC using services, I prefer decamethylcyclopentasiloxane a non-toxin silicone based solution. It has better visual results and is not toxic. There is also a liquid carbon dioxide product I have been dying to see in action, but have not used it for silks.

General day to day:

Its important to air garments out for a few days before storing, most body odors are volatile chemicals and will evaporate. Also many theater tricks like using vodka or fabreeze directly to the fabric (or "misted around them") is damaging to the fiber. You will end up with micro bleeds/spotting everywhere. Satins will loose their sheen where tiny droplets contacted the fiber. These also weaken the silk fiber and hasten shattering. If you need to destank something you can tent an item in a dry cleaners bag, so no plastic is touching the fabric, and place it over a pie dish of crumpled paper towels saturated with vodka or fabreeze. If its cold you can put it on a heating pad set to low to speed the process (just remember vodka is flammable). The fabreeze or vodka will vaporize around the garment without damage to the finish.

Ironing. Low heat no steam (iron steam tends to spit). I have a jiffy steamer that I turn on and then place my seaming area above the steam. Be careful you can get bad burns. The hot moisture will soften the fiber. I then sandwich the silk between layers of hankerchief linen. I can see through it and it prevents many issues with the change in sheen. If you are getting a sheen change (check before you iron- spot test) cool down the iron, or I will resort to using a mini cuff iron to just hit the seams.

All in all silk is a gorgeous fabric, but is like a high maintenance pet. You cant abuse it and expect it to be happy. Silk on my dear fabric warriors, silk on!

LONG STORY SHORT? Spot test for color fasteness with whatever you use to clean. I recommend a very weak Orvus which is pure sodium laurel sulfate, then rinsed in deionized water several times (it's used in textile conservation). Mix a weak solution and use that to test and to wash. Go through the whole process. Dont just drop a spot on and go. Please note that there are other more complex cleaners, specifically anionic ones, that are used. There are give and takes to Orvus (ionized or anionic) and other that are anionic. I appreciate the reminder to mention this from a gracious reader. I was trying to keep this "simple" and now it's like a novel!

* please note: "dry cleaning" has been around since the victorian era, however they used gasoline and other petrochemicals. These left a distinctive smell likened to kerosene. So most women did not dry clean silk. The process changed in the 1920-1930s when a special type of hydroflurocarbon was invented that wasnt smelly or extremely flammable. Hence why it didnt address it as a means to clean early silk.

MYTH BUSTING! (Things I have heard so far today- given as proven advise. Note just because something worked a few times for one person doesnt mean it isn't causing permanent unseen damage.) We say in medicine the plural of anecdote is anecdotes, it is not science. Meaning just because someone lucked out a few times doing something risky and unproven, doesn't mean it's good practice.

1) Crease-away to get rid on water spotting. I was intrigued. So spend the last hour reading MSDS sheets and chemical reviews. So. The main ingreideint is IPOH or chemically 3-isopropenyl-6-oxoheptanal (IPOH) which is a modified alcohol. By weight the concentrated product is 90% isopropyl alcohol. The surfactants stick to the fiber and remain to "loosen the fiber", that's usually acomplished via huge pH swings. The pH however is neutral, so not sure there. But please do not use this on silk. Alcohols are polar solvents (like water) and could worsen spotting significantly. Also it leaves a "surfactant residue", essentially soap that never leaves. Not silk friendly.

Clean and Pretty Seams

How do you get beautiful seams that lay nicely on your body?!

I'm shocked at the number of intro to sewing classes that don't teach this, so here's a really easy tip to take your sewing from beginner level to intermediate with very little effort: PRESS YOUR SEAMS!! Press them good before you attach any other pieces! This is vital to making your garment look professional. It might seem annoying to get up from your sewing machine in between each seam, but here's why it's important to spend a minute on this: un-pressed seams look lumpy, bunchy, and its very easy to accidentally sew them facing the wrong direction (i.e., top of seam facing left, bottom facing right) which will make your seams pucker. At worst, un-pressed seams can be itchy and affect the fit of your garment.  

You can choose to press your seams open, to the side, and even tack them down (Look up "welt seams" and "french seams"). Doing this quickly, even without finishing the edges of your seams like I have, will immediately and noticeably improve the craftsmanship of your sewing.

Acid and Resin (and how to make the two work together)

I made my lemon dress about a year ago now-- so here's a video I made about how to seal something (like acidic fruit) that can react with resin, and what can go wrong. Click on the link to watch.

https://www.facebook.com/snowsongcosplay/videos/2003188799913765/

Kanzashi

I've been trying out making kanzashi, or fabric origami flowers and wanted to share the tutorials I've come across.

This is a traditional Japanese art form that is most often used for hair ornaments worn with kimono. The most common shapes are petals or leaves, but the pieces can be arranged into a multitude of shapes, including animals like fish or butterflies. This would be a great way to add some handmade flair to Japanese-themed ensembles.

Basically all you need are some fabric squares and a way to attach them! Traditionally you would use silk fabric and rice glue. I'd highly recommend using a synthetic fabric as its much easier to melt the edges together - though I would also recommend just buying a cheap wood burning tool instead of using a lighter like the person in the tutorial.

If you try it out this is actually quite easy and it goes pretty quickly!

I'm attaching some photos of the ones I've made recently as well as some far more professional/traditional examples.

Basic petal tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zxe9KuCkDDU

Kanzashi tutorials playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch…

Additionally, here is an Etsy shop of someone who makes them in the traditional style for some eye candy or if you want to make a custom order from someone else: https://www.etsy.com/shop/WisteriaGarden

Kimono Lining Sewing Technique

A bit of a niche tutorial for you guys - how to close the lining of a kimono. As you may know, traditional kimono are entirely hand stitched, so the idea behind this stitch is that most of the length is contained between the fabric. This also works great for other lightweight fabrics where a regular slip stitch can cause the fabric to bunch up and wrinkle. Watch the video to see it done.

https://www.facebook.com/snowsongcosplay/videos/2072358316330146/

Adding Celophane to a Wig

Cellophane wigs are really popular right now for Land of the Lustrous (AKA Houseki no Kuni) cosplays! I haven't seen it done for Steven Universe yet, but I'm sure that would be awesome or any other character with 💎💎sparkle hair 💎💎

I've added some of my own pics below and some other cosplayers so you can see what I mean.

DISCLAIMER: Cellophane does not agree with virtually any fastening so what I'm discussing here is the best case options. There is a 99.9% chance that your cellophane will fall off at some point, especially if you store your wig flat. I recommend transporting your wig on a wig head and bringing glue along with you for emergency repairs.

Materials:

- Base wig, ideally heat resistant 

- Any other wig styling components/materials (we won't cover all of them)

- Fastener: best options are clear tacky glue, low-temperature hot glue, or needle and thread.

- Cellophane

- Scissors suitable for cellophane

Where to get cellophane:

Party City has many colors of plain/transparent cellophane, and white/transparent holographic cellophane that has a blue/pink shift. Joann's, Michaels, and Hobby Lobby also have white holographic cellophane. For other colors of holographic cellophane, such as what I used, try looking on Amazon! Here is one that I used for Phosphophyllite:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NJJFPR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&fbclid=IwAR2KnFYABhnzO4O8VSNFY_bvPm3sVfSei6SP_5sVlwrSvuMSImay8DwR7-c

Wig Instructions:

STEP 1: Style your wig as needed. If you want the cellophane to stay in place, make sure your wig is all glued in place. If you want the wig AND the cellophane to be free-moving, cut your wig to the correct length.

TIP: If your wig will be stationary/fully glued, make sure to check the size of your head against your wig head. It won't have any stretch by the time you're finished!

STEP 2: Glue down/hair spray your wig to death and add detangling agent if needed. You will not be able to use very much hair spray on your wig after you add the cellophane as it will dull the shine.

STEP 3: Cut cellophane pieces in correct shapes. I found it was easier to cut and glue one at a time.

STEP 4: Attach cellophane as needed. 

-Option 1 (personal favorite): Use low-temperature hot glue. DO NOT use high temperature as this will melt the cellophane! I found this was the most permanent glue, but it is slightly more visible than tacky glue.

- Option 2: Use clear tacky glue. Regular tacky glue also dries clear so it will work in a pinch, but it shows a little more as it is cloudy. Use a hair dryer to dry the glue faster. This is the least visible option but the cellophane is most likely to fall off. 

- Option 3: Use needle and thread. This is the most secure, but also the most difficult as cellophane rips easily.

TIP: Leave some open spaces in the cellophane near the ears and at the back of the neck so that you can pin the wig down more easily. (Cellophane on the back of the neck is also pretty scratchy!)

STEP 5: Embellish as needed (rhinestones, mirror pieces, etc)

STEP 6: Shine bright like a diamond💎💎💎

Other cosplayers featured here are all current or former CO cosplayers!

@queencuttlefish on instagram

@saltsyrup on instagram

December Wynn

Juushi Cosplay