Armor Basics -WIP

3D Printed Armor

WIP - Stay tuned!

EVA Foam Armor

EVA Foam is arguably the most accessible way to create armor and metal-looking pieces for Cosplay. It has a low skill floor and can be used to make very detailed and light-weight armor pieces.

EVA Foam Armor is a good balance of accessibility and cost investment as well as being light-weight and flexible for greatest comfort while wearing.

Pros:

Light weight
Low Cost
Easy to use
Clean lines and dynamic shapes possible.
Easy to paint and texture.

Cons:

Flexible - could flex in places you'd rather be stiff.
Requires specific materials for clean finish
- Some of those materials need PPE or well ventilated areas for safety so are challenging for young cosplayers.
- incorrect materials can cause chemical reactions that could destroy the work.

See our Tutorial on EVA Foam for tips on getting started.

Making Patterns

When you're building your armor, prop, suit, or clothing you have to have patterns or templates so each separate piece comes together to form the intended garment. So where can you get patterns for your cosplay?

There are various sources where you can find, download, purchase, or otherwise acquire existing patterns. Linked here are a few great resources with a mix of free and for-sale patterns and templates for all kinds of different armors.

So what do you do if the cosplay or prop you are making doesn't have any preexisting patterns? You have to either take existing generic patterns and alter them or you have to make them entirely from scratch. So how do you do that?

The easiest method here is to use the duct tape and saran wrap method. Here, you take whatever part of your body you need to make a pattern for and wrap it in saran wrap. Over this, you will use the duct tape to help create the shell. Be careful though, do not wrap the duct tape too tight or the pattern will end up too small. Then you can trace out the shapes you want on the duct tape directly and cut out, or you can layer more saran wrap and duct tape over top and create multiple layered pieces depending on the complexity of the shape. Trace out seams and areas where you can separate the curves into flat planes to trace onto the foam. Be certain to mark alignment cues on each seam to make sure you reassemble the parts accurately.

When using thick foam, be sure to build in a seam tolerance equal to the thickness of the foam to account for the space the foam thickness is taking up, or you may wind up with armor that is far too small, depending on the thickness of foam used.

Thin foam will flex more and be lighter weight, and thick foam will be more stiff. Choose foam based on the qualities you want from the end piece. You can also affect this with the kind of sealant and paint choices you make further on.

Evil Ted Patterns

Punished Props

Kamui Cosplay

SKS Props and Armor

Bro Navaro Templates

Inkscape

Kamui Cosplay

Ventilation

EVA foam is a natural insulator. This means that it will not "breathe" well and any heat generated by your body will be contained close to you for the duration of time you're wearing it. To avoid overheating, it will be important to plan out places for that heat to be vented, either naturally or with small electronics.

Where and how you put in ventilation depends entirely on the cosplay you're building, but you should at least try to add some if it's possible. Full body suits like Iron Man, Monster Hunter, or Gundam Suits, may be very difficult to ventilate naturally and will need additional planning ahead to add vent holes or other cooling features. Partially armored pieces may not need ventilation at all, but it's important to do test fits and plan ahead just in case.

If you can only cool a few places, the most important areas to focus on is making sure you have adequate air flow around the face and head, and around your core. Helmets especially will need to have space for fresh air to be brought in.

Many cosplayers choose to install very small battery powered fans in their suits and helmets. They are completely hidden and most beneficial in costumes where there really is no place to add large holes for ventilation. You can use computer fans, 3D Printer Cooling fans or even purchase pre-made helmet fan kits from vendors like Henry's Helmet Fans.

You will see fans used most by cosplayers in fur suits and those in The 501st Legion, Mandalorian Mercs Costume Club, and Star Wars charity groups that wear film-accurate suits. These cosplayers may wear their suits for long periods of time without breaks so having fans can mean the difference between passing out from heat stroke and having a comfortable experience.

Around the body, consider using decorative details to create sneaky holes or vents in the armor. Some kinds of armor have features that can be functional while appearing decorative, such as the vents or jump-pack looking features on futuristic armor. If you can't put the fan directly where you want the air to flow, you can use tubing or ventilation ducting available at most hardware stores to re-route the flow of air to different areas of the body. Experiment with different placements for the best comfort.

You can research Mascot Suit cooling systems to see what professionals choose to do and see what options you have for emulating their systems.

Courtesy of User Tfett40 of The Dented Helmet
Two 3D Printer cooling fans placed under the ears pointed across the cheeks towards the visor to prevent fogging. Battery pack placed against the back of the head secured with Velcro.
Note the open bottom of the helmet allows airflow in. This helmet is usually worn with a balaclava or tube-scarf to cover transition between helmet and chest piece.

Attaching Armor

So you’re building your foam cosplay, but how do you put it together so that it stays on you and allows you to move as much as possible? Consider researching the ways armor was historically attached for inspiration when deciding how to attach yours.

Remember, lighter armor will not need as robust an attachment as metal armor, but should be tested against normal movement before finalizing. Using Consider how you will put it on and whether or not you will need a handler when making those decisions.

Ideal options to explore include:

Nylon straps
Parachute Clips
Magnets
Velcro patches

Additionally, pay attention to where you want the armor to sit and consider including attachments to an under-layer to secure the armor in position. Snaps, velcro and magnets are ideal for attaching the armor to a body suit or gambeson to avoid shifting out of place. Especially useful for leg and arm pieces where elastic might slide down.

Straps to Foam

Neodymium Magnets

Adding Details and Battle Damage

Adding details can make your cosplay stand out from the rest but it doesn't have to be difficult. There are only four things you need to make most any kind of detail: a sharp blade, a blade sharpener, a wood burner, and a Dremel.

The wood burner is particularly useful for detail work because it uses many different types of points to burn details with. The process is by no means quick but such attention to detail can make all the difference. Be sure to wear your PPE as the smoke that comes with burning foam can be toxic.

If you don't have access to a wood burner, scoring shallow cuts in the design you would like to make in the foam, then heating it will cause the edges to pull away from the cut and make the engraving appear larger and deeper than the original slice. This is best for simple engravings, such as a lip around the outside of a panel.

If looking for thinner shapes than you can reasonably cut, or more organic designs, Puffy paint fills this need quite nicely. It can be drawn on like a pen and the result will be small, raised areas of detail that can be coated with paint and sealed just like any other part of your foam.

Googly Eyes make incredible rivets and studs once painted to match, though beware that enough rivets may lead to subtle rattling sound when walking around.

What about battle damage? The joke among foam-smiths is if you make a significant mistake it is now battle damage. A lot of mistakes can simply become battle damage and become incorporated into the weathering.

Weathering is a paint effect that makes your prop or armor appear worn, old, or otherwise well used. It also helps add dimension. Weathering can feel scary because we are afraid to mess up our very carefully crafted armor, but it is very worth it. Don't be afraid to make "test pieces" out of scrap foam while making the rest of your armor so you have something to try techniques on before committing to your major piece.

Battle Damage

Plastazote and Foam Clay

Foam clay is exactly what is sounds like; EVA foam in a play-dough-like form that is easily moldable and, when left to dry, will keep its shape permanently. It is ideal for organic shapes or sculpted pieces that don't translate well to template cuts. You can press this material into silicone molds, pop it in the freezer for about 30 minutes, and then de-mold and you have a nice, flexible piece of detail that you can adhere to your cosplay after its dried. Be sure to seal this within 24 hours or it will become brittle.

Plastazote is not EVA but very useful for incorporating into EVA armor or props. Also called LED foam, it is a material you undoubtedly have seen before as the spongy, soft packing material. White Plastazote is excellent for diffusing LED light to avoid "hot spots" or pinpricks of light on pieces that are supposed to uniformly glow. This material now also comes in the same thicknesses that regular EVA foam comes in, up to 6mm thick. This type of foam can be glued and shaped the same way regular EVA foam is, but it allows light to pass through it, unlike regular EVA foam; making it perfect to cover lights on your cosplays.

Foam Clay vs Model Magic

Freezer Method

Plastazote LED diffusion

Worbla Armor

WIP - Stay Tuned!

Your New Armor and Cons

Now that you're all done, you want to show everyone your new really cool cosplay right? Here are some things to remember while at conventions.

Mobility:

Take time to test fit your armor before the day of the con to become aware of things like range of motion, visibility and blind spots, and how easy it is to be aware of your surroundings when completely armored. If you are having a hard time moving or seeing safely, consider recruiting a "Handler" to walk with you and act as your eyes, ears, and hands as need arises. They can act as a "squire" of sorts to help you dress and undress and attach pieces that are difficult for you to reach in armor. They can liaison for you for people who want photos as well. Just be sure to compensate them for their time and assistance with snacks, purchasing their tickets, or whatever arrangement you and your friend make.

Transportation:

Depending on the size of your costume, you may or may not have difficulty taking it to a con. If you plan to fly with your costume, you'll need to design it to be able to ship it or fit it inside a large suitcase and without getting damaged. If you plan on flying with a prop weapon, make sure security or anybody that might search it has a way to know it's a fake prop so bring thorough documentation that it’s a prop.

Moving and inevitable damage:

If you plan on wearing your costume for a long time, make sure it's as comfortable and relatively easy to move in. If your feet hurt too much, consider padded soles or taking several breaks.

Damage will inevitably occur, sometimes just from walking the con floor. Parts can and do come off. You will bump into people, walls, doorways, walk on stairs, hit things you didn't know were there, etc. your armor will get scratched, cracked, torn, and overall worn as you wear it. So before each con, look over your armor and check for places that need repair. Also, if places tear easily like foam straps, reinforce it with plastic like Worbla or a piece of a plastic grocery container.

For more serious damage:

If you're at a con and part of your costume breaks or tears off, make sure you're prepared. Some cons will have cosplay repair stations but others won't. You can make a Cosplay First Aid kit for the con floor with things like safety pins, double sided tape, and other quick emergency repairs. You can also create a Cosplay Triage kit for the hotel room that has some of your tools, paints, glues, spare scraps, and other repair tools that would let you make a more in-depth repair.

Heat and water:

EVA foam does not breathe at all. Make sure to hydrate yourself and wear a very breathable base layer if possible.

See the section on Ventilation for more ways to stay comfortable in your armor.

Eat:

Seems like a no-brainer but you will be having so much fun in your costume and getting your picture taken that you may forget to eat. Meals are great opportunities to take an armor break so take a double dose of refreshment so the next part of your con-day is just as enjoyable as the first part.

Photos:

You will get your picture taken, and depending on how involved your costume is, you'll get it taken a lot. So if you have somewhere to be, give yourself extra time to get there. People may even wait to take your picture until you finish a conversation with someone.

Take spare clothes:

As you will sweat a lot, make sure to bring extra clothes like socks, shirts, and if you have a hotel room, underwear. Nothing like driving home or having dinner in clothes soaked in sweat.

Pain Killers:

Heat, dehydration, and carrying the extra weight of armor pieces can create discomfort you didn't anticipate. Nothing like having a headache and not having Ibuprofen or Tylenol. It may just ruin your whole day. There are no prizes for suffering, so go ahead and back painkillers and use them as necessary so you can continue enjoying your cosplay.

Lastly, remember this rule:

Cosplay is not consent.

What does this mean? It means a few very important things.

First, if you want to take a picture of someone in cosplay, do not just take it. You need to ask their permission first. If they say "No," do not take it, even a surreptitious photo after the fact will come off as invasive and disrespectful.

Cosplay is not consent means no touching of props, costumes, and cosplayer without their permission. Cosplayers put in a lot of time and work into them and many are fragile.

Cosplay is not consent means no costume, no matter how much skin is shown, is ever implied permission to harass, touch, grope, kiss, cat-call, give sexual advances of any kind, or even ask out for a drink. It’s not permission of any kind.

Fail to abide by this and you will be, at minimum, ejected and banned from the con, and if the transgression is egregious enough, you could even be arrested and have charges brought against you.

If you are ever the victim of verbal, physical, or sexual harassment, whether at a con or outside, notify security and/or police immediately.

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