Primary Sources

This photograph depicts the interaction between British colonial rule and Indian sartorial practices during the Victorian era in India. It shows a British woman surrounded by a group of Indian women, illustrating the influence of British culture on clothing practices in India. 

This image showcases an essential influence of the British on the Indian people - culture exchange. Along with societal and economic development, the British also introduced Victorian moral standards and clothing practices among Indians. It may be viewed as the British Empire’s efforts to “civilize” Indian men and women, but it is important to observe where the shift in clothing practices originated. This shows that Victorian ideals of modesty and femininity shaped Indian clothing practices, starting with the upper-caste Indian women who commonly interacted with European women.

This painting by Raja Ravi Varma depicts his daughter, a Nair woman in traditional Kerala attire, holding a baby. She is dressed in a traditional Mundum neriyathum and expectantly waits for “papa,” the father of the child. 

Interpretations of the painting underscore its role in highlighting the Western influence, particularly its impact on matriliny and women's fashion in Kerala. The painting symbolizes the shift from a matrilineal Nair society to a more patriarchal family structure. By shining a light on colonial modernity and a society in flux, these paintings serve as a gateway to understanding women's lives during a period of significant change in Kerala.

This image further supports our project by vividly depicting the sartorial practices among upper-caste women and the intersection between British influence and changing traditional structures. It offers a clear picture of the broader shifts in Kerala society, from matrilineal autonomy to patriarchal family structures and caste-based sartorial practices to Westernized fashion standards.

This 1956 photograph captures a group of women in a rural village, carrying baskets against a backdrop of dirt roads and banana trees. The women's attire, simple mundus or saris, not only suggests their involvement in manual labor or an agriculture-related field but also underscores the practicality of their clothing choices in the context of their work.  

The absence of jewelry or decorative clothing, a norm for upper-caste women, confirms that these women, likely from a lower caste, were involved in laboring communities. This is a testament to their resilience in the face of societal norms. By contextualizing this image with the year it was taken, it becomes clear that by 1956, the Kerala government had begun to take steps against caste inequalities reflected in everyday clothing practices. At this point, Kerala also moved towards greater education, literacy rates, and economic development. 

This image supports our research by displaying the shift in sartorial practices among women of the lower caste in mid-20th century Kerala. These working women, who still dressed in a simple manner and prioritized function over form, were integral to the economic development of Kerala. They had begun covering their chests in everyday life, a sign of their evolving roles and the changing societal norms.