Our essays

"On the way across Warsaw..."

ESSAY: Does anyone still remember this? On the trail of unusual places that have disappeared from the map of the capital.

 I am standing at the beautiful Unii Lubelskiej Square. The outskirts of Warsaw, this is where the city once ended, beyond which there were only fields and meadows. In the 18th century, Duchess Izabela Lubomirska fell in love with this place. "Mon coteau" - my hill, that's what she called the area and lived in a palace next to Królikarnia. From the window of the duchess's room, there was an idyllic view: grazing white sheep and hopping rabbits. No wonder she liked to walk here, organize parties and invite guests. Even Tadeusz Kościuszko visited it, just before he left for America. 

Mon coteau – My Mokotów. 

The longest street in Warsaw is Puławska Street, formerly Nowoaleksandryjska Street. It was a narrow-gauge railway route to Wilanów and Grójec. The train stopped at the Church of St. Michael. Passengers had to pay a tax for passing through the church premises, and right next to the preserved bell tower stood a vicar with a tray. 

There used to be palaces along Puławska Street, which were later turned into tenement houses. Stefan Starzyński, the first Mayor of Warsaw, decided to expand Warsaw and planned the construction of Mokotów as a district of wealthy entrepreneurs, lawyers, doctors and architects. 

The Wedel House was created for the chocolate factory workers. I look into the gate and admire Zofia Stryjeńska's painting "Highlander Dance". The tenement house was famous for its elegance: there was a roof garden, elevators that opened in the apartment and chrome mailboxes. Opposite is the Morskie Oko Park, a recreation place for factory workers. 

Puławska Street has changed since I remember it.

 The Moscow cinema, where I watched the famous Film Confrontations, has disappeared. All that remains of the building are the lions and memories. There is also no „Little Theater”, whose director was Adam Hanuszkiewicz. It was one of the few theatres in Warsaw with a moving stage. Now, there is another grocery discount store "Biedronka". I feel very sorry for this place. I miss an important cultural point in Mokotów. 

In my free time, I like to pass by the Dovecote and the Moorish House, it is the only preserved element of the former park next to the Szustra Palace. The park was once surrounded by a wall, today it invites you to walk with its greenery, old trees and benches to relax from the hustle and bustle of the street. Opposite there is the best ice cream in Mokotów - Limoni. I recommend lemon with basil. 

I love the parks in Mokotów. Does anyone else remember that there was the Southern Railway Station next to Dreszer Park? „Cucumber” buses which were going to Konstancin, parked here. Every Sunday, I went from here to visit my uncle. Now, I often stop here to take a deep breath and enjoy the peace. It is a beautiful park, an oasis of silence, in the morning you can listen to birds singing, and in the evening squirrels wait for nuts from walkers. 

There is one more place that testifies to the interesting history of Puławska Street - the Scarab House. Unfortunately, its condition is getting worse every year. When I go home by tram, I always look at it with concern and look forward to its renovation. I wouldn't want it to fade into history and in a few years, I'll ask the question: Does anyone still remember it?

 AgnieszkaK 

ESSAY: Excuse me, are they fighting here? Enchanted areas of Warsaw.

 I'm going by tram to Praga Północ, to Brzeska Street. I get off at the „ bears" and walk along Towarowa. I turn into Ząbkowska. The street is narrow, cobbled, and fragments of the pre-war tram rails are still preserved. Faded curtains hang in the windows of the nearby bars, and plastic flowers stand in vases on the windowsill. The windows are dusty, they haven't been washed for years. I always thought that Praga was not Warsaw. Time has stopped here and the clock hands do not want to move. The faces of people rushing to or from work look tired, grey and plain. I don't know where Brzeska Street is. I ask the way a pizza delivery guy. “ Go straight and then to the right. We don't go there. We are not allowed". 

This Brzeska Street is amazing, like from an old movie. Some of the tenement houses are shabby, the windows are open, the windows are broken, some guys are standing in the doorways with beers. I enter another gate into a small yard. In the middle, there is a chapel with the Virgin Mary, and on the ground, there is a jar with fresh forget-me-not flowers. I sit down on a wooden bench and look around. You can hear residents talking. Someone is cooking dinner, children are crying, boys are watching a football game, and men are arguing about politics. An old lady with a shopping bag sits next to me. “I need to rest for a while,” she sighs. "Who are you looking for?" I answered that I wanted to write about the enchanted areas of Warsaw: "You know, about Brzeska Street, its inhabitants, history, how it was in the past."

 “A tailor lived here on the ground floor, you will see, the tablet is still there, but he died. He was already old and had lost his eyesight. 

A family was living on the first floor to the left, they were supposedly decent. And their daughter Olka killed the postman. She took the money from the bag and went to the mall for shopping. She got 25 years in prison. I feel sorry for the mother. She cried. 

And here lived Jurek, a junior high school student. Here on the second floor, where the curtains are. Jurek made a bet with his friends that he would rob a guy on the street. But he had a knife and in a fight, the boy stabbed him in the stomach. He didn't finish school anymore. They tried him as an adult. They also sentenced him to many years in prison. Tragedy". 

The old lady gets up and takes the shopping bag. She walks slowly and opens a creaky wooden door. I also get up and go back to Ząbkowska Street. I pass the "Hot Pyzy, Flaki” bar and Różyckiego Bazaar. I used to come here for shopping with my parents. The place looks deserted, but I remember crowds of people, clothes in kiosks, and shoes standing on newspapers. My mother bought me a communion dress and white shoes here. One of the stalls is open. An elderly couple sells fruit and vegetables. “Miss, Do you want eggs? Straight from the countryside. We have a small chicken farm. We trade here on Saturdays.” 

Praga, is an amazing place, a magical area. I clutch my handbag tightly and return to Mokotów, my home. 

AgnieszkaK 

Essay: Zdzisław Beksiński, a painter from the neighborhood

What should an artist look like? He definitely has a long beard and mustache, wears a hat and a flowing black coat. He smokes a pipe and hangs out in a cafe. He should also have a shirt stained with paint. When he walks down the street, people look at him. It exudes an artistic aura. He has the charm of Monet or the madness of Van Gogh.

Zdzisław Beksiński did not stand out in any way. He wore a checkered shirt and slightly too wide trousers held up by suspenders. Short haircut, with wide-rimmed glasses and thick bottoms. He was usually seen with his wife, returning from a nearby grocery store with some shopping. He loved making movies with a small camera.

Beksiński moved from Sanok because, as he claimed, the town was too small for him, everyone knew him, and no one knew anything about art. He wanted to be close to the artistic events to which he was invited, but he always refused. He lived in a block of flats in Służew nad Dolinką. He lived on the 3rd floor. The houses in the estate are so close that one of the neighbors boasted that he liked watching Beksiński paint. The next day the window was closed tightly with curtains.

The world of Beksiński's paintings includes skeletons, corpses, ghosts, skulls, crosses, large spiders and cockroaches. Cemeteries and creatures that arouse fear and nightmares. The atmosphere of inevitable death. The artist created his paintings in a small room while listening loudly to classical music.

His son Tomasz was a beloved radio presenter. One day he committed suicide. Beksiński's wife, Zofia, also died after a long illness. Zdzisław lived alone for several years. Orderly, quiet and cordial to everyone. On February 21, 2005, he was killed by the 19-year-old son of his friends who wanted money from him. He managed to steal 2 cameras and several CDs.

In the building at Sonaty Street, at the entrance to the staircase, there is an inscription: "Here the outstanding painter, creator, photographer and illustrator Zdzisław Beksiński lived and worked."

AgnieszkaK

Essay: Secrets of tenement houses, tenement houses of secrets - on the trail of Warsaw's secrets

1980s. The last stop of bus 157 is at Bokserska Street. There is a horse racing track nearby. Sting's concert is taking place here tonight, so the street is extremely crowded. People look around: "It's a shitty place," comments can be heard.

Służewiec is the last southern district of Warsaw, a settlement of displaced persons and workers working in nearby factories. The residential houses were built in the area of the former village of Zagościniec, which was burned down after the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising. At 4 a.m. on August 1, 1944, soldiers from the Karpaty Battalion of the 2nd Baszta Regiment ran onto the Horse Race Track. Most of them died, the wounded were saved by farmers who took the soldiers out of the city on wagons. The Germans took revenge on the inhabitants of Zagościniec, killing over 120 people and burning the village. Behind the Służewiec wall, you can see the burial place of the insurgents.

Factories and numerous workplaces were established in Służewiec. The first house estates that were built were workers' hostels on Bogunki, Bokserska, and Obrzeżna streets. Bus drivers and their families lived near the bus terminal. A special housing estate was built for them at Rzymowskiego Street.

An experimental house was also created to ask residents' opinions about which type of house is the most comfortable to live in. The first underfloor heating was installed in some blocks. To this day, new residents wonder why the ceilings in their apartments are wavy.

A complex of tower blocks was built at Gotarda Street for displaced people from Targówek. Because they were not "polite" residents of Warsaw, one of the four blocks was built only for the police whose task was to keep order in the estate.

Shopping was done in the only grocery store on Bartłomieja Street and a small stand where fresh milk and cottage cheese was sold every day. Cows grazed on Kłobucka Street, chickens roamed in pens, and pigs were kept in small pigstys.

The Okęcie airport is nearby. Just pass little  gardens and the Zbarż fort, built by the Russian army in the 19th century as a weapons warehouse. Today, the red brick warehouses are flooded. Residents of the Służewiec estate often visited this place in spring, when white and purple lilacs bloomed.

The biggest attraction of the estate was the Janosik bar and Sunday horse races.

In the 1990s, Galeria Mokotów Shopping Mall and the Mordor office complex were built. No one will say anymore: "It's shitty here."

  AgnieszkaK

Essay: A walk around Mokotów, with the Warsaw Uprising in the background


I live in Mokotów, I go to school here and I often pass by various commemorative plaques or monuments related to the Warsaw Uprising. Since this is my neighbourhood, I decided to learn a little more about this event, so I went to visit some of the most important places.

The Warsaw Uprising broke out on August 1, 1944. Poles rose against the German troops occupying Warsaw. They had no heavy weapons, planes, guns or tanks. The uprising collapsed after 63 days, on October 2, 1944, approximately 18,000 Home Army soldiers died and 180,000 civilians were murdered by the Germans.

At the beginning of my trip, I learned that I also have a family history connected with the Warsaw Uprising. The son of my great-grandfather's brother took part in it. Zdzisław Badowski, together with many other soldiers, tried to evacuate through the sewers after the fall of Mokotów. Once they had managed to get to a safe place, they were ordered to return because there had been no order to evacuate Mokotów before. Unfortunately, while returning, the soldiers, including Zdzisław, took the wrong exit and found themselves right next to the German gendarmerie on Dworkowa Street. On September 27, approximately 140 insurgents were taken prisoner and murdered by the Germans. To commemorate this tragic event, a monument was built there. There is a famous photo from the Warsaw Uprising, which probably shows Zdzisław Badowski.

The next point of my walk was the monument to the "Baszta" soldiers, also at Dworkowa Street. This is a monument commemorating the very event I mentioned at the beginning. It was here that about 140 soldiers emerged from the sewers and were shot by the Germans.

My last point was the Warsaw Uprising Mound. It is a small mountain located at Bartycka Street. However, this is not a natural hill, there is a longer history behind it. This Mound was built from the ruins of destroyed Warsaw. The idea dates back to 1945 by an engineer Stanisław Gruszczyński. The construction of the current mound began in 1945 when ruins from destroyed Warsaw buildings were brought to Czerniaków. The mound was completed in 1950. At the very top, there is a "Fighting Poland" sign.

Hania


Essay: The view from my window. Służewiecki Stream.

I like sitting at my desk facing the window with a beautiful lake view. I checked Wikipedia - it is a pond belonging to the Berenstewicz Ponds complex. The Służewiecki Stream flows nearby, called Smródka by the inhabitants because of its unpleasant smell. But fortunately, this is now history.

I open my laptop, click on Google, and enter the phrase: „ Służewiecki Stream”.

The river begins under the Okęcie airport as an underground stream. It flows under the WKD railway tracks and as a surface stream through the Horse Racing Tracks to Wilanów.

It's spring, warm, perfect weather for a bike trip. I get on my bike and decide to ride along the river. I stop at Łączyny Street. There is a garden and palace complex here, currently very neglected with a collapsed roof and broken windows. The last owner of the manor died in the 1950s. I close my eyes and imagine this place teeming with life: Saturday balls, sailing in boats on the lake, lanterns lit in the evening. This is what this place might have looked like in the old days. Now it is forgotten.

The stream flows near the horse racing stables. This is my favorite place to spend Saturday and Sunday walks. For as long as I can remember, I have liked coming here in spring, when the forsythia blooms, and in autumn, to pick chestnuts. I made friends with the stable workers. They once advised me to bet on a black horse named Amman, which took part in the famous Great Warsaw race. I kept my fingers crossed for him. He crossed the finish line second... I felt pity, but my daughter's rocking horse was named after this beautiful horse. Watching horse races is a great pleasure for me.

There are also criminal stories connected with the Służewiecki Stream in this area. A couple of young people drowned in this small river. I remember Krzyś from a nearby junior high school who fell into the water at night and couldn't get out. All the students and teachers cried, feeling sorry for the boy.

The stream flows through Służew to Dolinka, next to the most beautiful and, in my opinion, most interesting Cultural Center in Warsaw. I often come here for language, music and art classes. Then I rest on a blanket by the river. If you stay quiet and don't move, strange creatures will come out of the water...  Check it out for yourself.

My bicycle trip along the stream runs among greenery and trees. I pass the Nepomucen chapel and cross the street. Right next to the Blacksmith Museum, I turn into the modern Wilanów housing estate. I enter the park next to the Palace, which King Jan II Sobieski built for his beloved wife Marysieńka. Here the Służewiecki Stream ends its course.

I leave my bike at the gate and walk through the alleys of the French park, well-kept flower beds, and the English park, which reminds me of the paintings of the painter John Constable.

An annual Shakespeare festival takes place in the park in July. In the evening, residents can watch a performance of A Midsummer Night's Dream while sitting on blankets or lying in deckchairs. And then the holidays begin.

AgnieszkaK