What are Waves?
Waves are formed as variations in air pressure above the water force gusty winds downward upon the water’s surface, displacing the water. In addition, the wind tends to drag water particles along in the direction of its movement—that is, to exert a shearing force.
Wind is the most common cause of waves. Waves generated by the wind may range in height from less than 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) to as much as 60 feet (18 meters).
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