Visiting Naalehu

“Maybe we should turn around,” Ryan, my 22-year-old son said. 

I kept driving. The occasional car going the other way gave me hope. I prayed I was going in the right direction. About 12 miles from Highway 11, the road to Ka Lae is paved but narrow. Certain stretches looked desolate. 

Before I lost my resolve, I saw signs of activity in the distance. The vast blue Pacific Ocean and stunning landscape appeared. We arrived at Ka Lae or South Point, the southernmost point of the United States.

As I surveyed the rugged cliffs and dramatic Hawaiian coastline, I thank the heavens for the opportunity to see this special place. The sun shone brightly but the wind reduced the sun’s intensity. 

For the thrill seekers, there was a jumping off point from the 40-foot cliff. Looking down, the thought of someone jumping in made me shudder. For those inclined, there were five fishing poles. I learned this was a great place to catch tuna, marlin and mahi-mahi. 

Next to the parking lot was a bright blue truck selling shave ice, smoothies and soft serve.  With many flavors including mango, guava, pineapple, lilikoi (passionfruit), and tiger blood (a mix of sweet watermelon, strawberry, and coconut, a choice of up to three, Ryan decided he just wanted a scoop of vanilla ice cream. 

At a distance to the right stood 14 giant wind turbines. From where we stood, I could feel and hear the wind. I looked to the far left and wondered, “What’s over there?” Later, I realized that Papakolea Green Sand Beach was three miles down. And we missed it!

This was our fifth day on the Big Island. Visiting Naalehu, my father’s birthplace, with my son, was the main reason I chose this island.

The day before, I reminded Ryan. “I don’t want to spend our time at the mall. I want you to see where my father was born.” He nodded and studied his phone. He just wanted to surf and shop.

The drive on Highway 11/Hawaii Belt from Kona to Naalehu was gorgeous but twisty. I noted the absence of street lights. At certain points, Ryan said. “Slow down. It’s 35 miles per hour here,” or “Speed up. The speed limit is 45.”

The day’s itinerary: visit the Sacred Heart of Jesus Catholic Church and light some candles like I did with my father, stop at the nearby Punalu’u Bakeshop for their famous malasadas and shortbread cookies, then drive to Punalu’u Black Sand Beach and maybe Volcanoes National Park.

Ryan had a different idea. “Let’s stop at the Naalehu library.” 

“Sure, why not,” I said.

While Ryan browsed the library shelves, I chatted with the library employee who warned me, “Don’t drive on Highway 11 at night—very dangerous. I would head back to Kona before 4 p.m. if I were you.” This was early November; sunsets occurred before 6 p.m.

Quickly, we drove to the Sacred Heart Church, a beautiful green and white building a block away. Outside was a statue of Jesus. I lingered in front of the statue, prayed. The place felt serene. I remembered being here with my father. Now I’m here with my son.

We even made it to Punalu’u Beach where I took a quick swim. Ryan had surfing on his mind. 

“Ask the lifeguard if I can borrow his surfboard.”

“No, that’s only for rescue. Time to head back,” I said. 

We stopped at Punalu’u Bakeshop to pick up some goodies and dinner before driving back to Kona. Mission accomplished.  Ryan has visited Naalehu. ` 

~ Nida Spalding