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Type 1 Ford locking wheel nuts
Type 1 Ford locking wheel nuts
This type of locking wheel nut is generally quite sturdy and reliable. Most problems with these come down to a lost key rather than damage to the locking wheel nut itself, although rounded or damaged keys are still possible.
Type 1 Ford locking wheel nuts snapped head
Type 1 Ford locking wheel nuts snapped head
Type 1 locking wheel nuts use an “anti-tamper” head that will snap off very easily, leaving only a flat surface behind
Type 2 & 3 Ford locking wheel nuts
Type 2 & 3 Ford locking wheel nuts
As this is the older Ford style locking wheel nut, failures are usually caused by corrosion rather than the bolt itself being weak. They often develop an “over-tightened” feel, even when they haven’t actually been massively over-torqued. Snapped or rounded locking wheel nut keys are much more common with this type, especially if force is repeatedly applied once corrosion has started.
Don't hammer a socket over it:
Don't hammer a socket over it:
Type 1 locking wheel nuts use an “anti-tamper” head that will snap off very easily, leaving only a flat surface behind
Type 2 & 3 use spinning rings designed specifically to prevent this kind of removal. These rings rotate freely, making it much harder to grip the locking wheel nut with sockets or extractors.
Don't Force It:
Attempting to use a broken or damaged locking wheel nut key is unlikely to remove Ford locking wheel nuts. once the key is damaged it will just spin and the wheel bolt will no longer engage correctly.
Avoid drilling methods:
Avoid drilling methods:
Ford anti-tamper casings are explicitly designed to resist brute-force drilling. Trying to drill them out on your driveway will only lead to broken drill bits and gouged wheels.
Chisels:
Hammering a chisel into the bolt might seem like a good idea, but the chance of successful removal is low and the risk of damaging the alloy is very high. Once the wheel is gouged, the repair can end up costing far more than the original problem.
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