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Cutting out the Ribs
The first thing I did was to use 1/4" tape (ribs and subdeck) and 1/8" tape (stringers and bottom edge) to mark out the windows so that I would know where to cut and leave the 85% penetrability required by MWCI rules. It's actually not hard to calculate:
take the model length (inches) and multiply it by 0.15 to get the 15% area allowed to be solid
Then subtract out 3" (for solid area, 2" in bow and 1" stern)
Divide the remainder by 1/4" to get the number of quarter-inch ribs you are allowed
Here you can see the midsection area with the tape marking the subdeck, ribs, and stringers.
Note: I did weight down the ship to scale weight and float it in Clark's pool to see where 1" below the waterline would be. Turns out to be right along that second lower bulge.
Cutting with rotary tools it becomes too easy to notch all the corners when trying to cut corners (weakening all the thin corners). It is a good idea to first drill out (staying just inside the window) the four corners of every panel!
Below you can see how easy it is to cut from hole to hole with a rotary blade (using my Dremmel) and not over-cut outside the window
I made sure to cut inside the windows, and then carefully hand-file every rib and stringer back to it's line (note: a square file like this makes nice sharp edges in the corners of the window)
To check my work, I made a width checking gauge out of a 1/4" by 1/8" basswood strip I had on which I glued short tabs.
I then simple dragged the 1/4" end down every rib,
and the 1/8" end along every stringer!
(and filed back until it easily moved along entire rib/stringer)
I was pretty happy with the end result!
On to Stuffing Tubes & Stringers
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