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Šiauliai City

History of Šiauliai is that of perpetual change as the city suffered many rearrangements and destructions. Maybe this is appropriate for a city first written about in a chronicle describing a nearby Saulė battle (1236).

In military circles, Šiauliai is famous for its major airbase used by NATO mission for Baltic States airspace defence. Every half a year a new alliance member sends some of its fighters and pilots here to compensate for the current Baltics' lack of air force capabilities. Šiauliai Airport was selected for having the longest runway in the Baltic States (3 500 m).

The most magnificent building in downtown Šiauliai is the Cathedral of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. Constructed in 1625 this church with a 70-meter tall tower is one of few examples of Renaissance (Manneris) style in Lithuanian ecclesial architecture.

Other buildings at the main Prisikėlimo (Ressurection) square are mainly Soviet historicist architecture of 1940s/1950s when Šiauliai was rebuilt after World War 2 damage. Unlike the later (1960s-1980s) Soviet concrete slab architecture created with nothing but cheapness in mind the Soviet historicism was promoted by J. Stalin to represent his new empire and carried ideological meaning. One example is the imposing Water tower at the opposite end of Vasario 16 street which was built to provide a secular urbanistic counterweight to the Cathedral.

Vilniaus street, a.k.a. "The boulevard" (traditional high street of Šiauliai) is another place to look for Stalinist architecture. In 1976 it became the first pedestrianized street all over the Soviet Union. While currently partly outcompeted by shopping malls it still is the main downtown hub for restaurants, peaceful stroll and tourist activities. Renovated in 2007 it also has numerous small sculptures.

In the west, the pedestrian zone begins at Vilniaus/Žemaitės intersection. Nearby residential courtyard hides a modest St. Ignacio church (1936; in a courtyard) while Šiauliai art gallery stands streetside. Further eastwards on you pass a small and blunt Radio/TV museum.

The Vilniaus/Tilžės intersection is where the history of Šiauliai began. Now it is marked by a rooster statue that greets visitors daily at 12:00 and 18:00 in many foreign languages. Museum of photography is nearby, offering a neatly restored gallery of photography-inspired art as well as real camera obscura. Bicycle museum is further on. Museum of Chocolate (Tilžės street) is a small-but-modern one, located in a historic Rūta chocolate factory (est. 1913) returned to original owners after the Soviet occupation. Its sweets may be bought here cheaply.

Beyond the Boulevard's eastern end stands the art nouveau villa of a Jewish businessman Chaimas Frenkelis (1908) and the now-disused leather factory that brought him riches. The "villa" is actually a magnificent (albeit compact) palace which now houses a museum on the lives of the urban dwellers, prewar provincial elite and the Frenkelis family.

The southern limit of Šiauliai downtown is marked by a railroad. Both rail and bus stations are located there, the latter incorporated into Saulės miestas, one of the Šiauliai's major malls (the name means "Sun city" and is a popular nickname for Šiauliai). Saulės miestas is good for shopping and eating but lacks entertainment.

The Neobyzanthine style of St. George Catholic church (near the railroad) reminds of its Russian Orthodox origins. The church was completed in 1909 to serve the Russian Imperial garrison. When Lithuania regained independence (1918) the Russian army departed and the building was ceded to the Roman Catholics.

A small number of Russian Orthodox people remained and they were allocated a place for a new church in the Old Cemetery in northern downtown near Talkša Lake. This lake surrounded by parks and greenery provides recreation. Centuries ago the Salduvė hill east of Talkša hosted a wooden castle which defended Šiauliai. Saulės Laikrodžio (Sundial) square south of Talkša is crowned by a sculpture-sundial that is a modern symbol of Šiauliai.


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Hill of Crosses

The exact origins of Lithuania's Kryžių Kalnas, or the Hill of Crosses, remain a mystery. Just outside the northern city of Šiauliai, thousands of metal and wooden crosses—placed here for nearly two centuries—have found a home on the growing mound of religious fervour. Dangling rosaries chime in the blowing wind and provide a rolling soundtrack for icons of saints and photographs of revered local patriots. Despite many attempts to destroy it, this unusual pilgrimage site endures as a powerful testament to devotion.

Legends and fables colour the history of the Hill of Crosses. First mention in writing dates to 1850, but some think the crosses appeared earlier, left by mourning relatives of the victims of revolts against the Russian regime in 1831, and later in 1863. The tsar suppressed national identity by limiting religious expression, so families were forbidden to honour the dead with proper burial in cemeteries. Many believe the crosses cropped up at the end of the 19th century, after an apparition of the Virgin Mary holding baby Jesus asked the believers to cover the holy place with these icons.

The tradition of carving religious icons has been handed down through generations. UNESCO recognizes cross-making as intangible cultural heritage of Lithuania, a “symbol of national and religious identity,” uniting the community in the face of adversity. During the Soviet era, religion remained banned and the Hill of Crosses off limits. In April 1961, the entire site was bulldozed and burned down by the authorities. Even though the Hill of Crosses was destroyed four more times, each time locals risked political danger by defiantly rebuilding the site under the cover of darkness.

Since gaining independence in 1991, religion in Lithuania is practiced freely and openly. Still, a rural exodus from rural areas and villages means fewer young people learn the craft of cross-making. Today, no one really holds jurisdiction of the Hill of Crosses, with different organizations and individual volunteers pitching in to maintain the site. However, even with an uncertain future, the Hill of Crosses welcomes tourists so they might better understand the local community’s difficult past, learn of its unshakable faith, and feel hope for the future.

Source: https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/things-to-do-hill-of-crosses-religious-tourism

Short film from National Geographic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7duefb6Khw

Places to eat in Šiauliai


"Rūta" Chocolate Factory