Mulching for Winter and Summer: Protecting the Heart of the Perennial Garden

by Grace Whitfeld

Inspired by W. C. Egan’s “Winter Mulching” and “Summer Mulching”  

Mulching is one of those quiet, behind‑the‑scenes tasks that rarely gets the spotlight, yet it shapes the health of a perennial garden more than almost anything else. It protects roots, steadies soil temperature, preserves moisture, and gives plants the gentle buffer they need to survive both winter’s severity and summer’s intensity.

W. C. Egan, writing in 1912, understood this deeply. His mulching advice is practical, thoughtful, and surprisingly modern — the kind of wisdom that saves gardeners from heartbreak and helps perennials return stronger each year.

This expanded post brings his insights forward, weaving them with modern clarity and the grounded, seasonal rhythm of ranch life.

❄️ Winter Mulching: A Blanket Against the Cold

Winter mulching isn’t about keeping plants warm — it’s about keeping them steady.

Egan emphasizes that the greatest danger to perennials isn’t deep cold, but the freeze‑thaw cycle that heaves roots out of the soil and exposes crowns to air and ice.

🌾 Leave the Tops Standing (Most of the Time)

Egan recommends leaving the dried tops of most perennials in place through winter.

Why?

• They catch snow, which insulates the soil

• They protect hollow stems from filling with water and freezing

• They shield crowns from sudden temperature swings

Only evergreen‑foliaged plants should be cut back before winter.

💩 Fresh vs. Old Manure: A Surprising Twist

Egan’s take on manure is refreshingly honest:

• Fresh manure is excellent for winter mulch — its nutrients leach slowly into the soil, and it provides warmth and protection.

• Old manure is easier to handle and blends into the soil color, but its nutrients are mostly spent.

He warns that old manure from a weed‑infested corner is “the best promoter of exercise I know of,” because you’ll spend all summer pulling the weeds it introduces.

🧹 Don’t Rush Spring Cleanup

One of Egan’s strongest cautions is this:

Do not remove winter mulch at the first warm spell.  

Early spring is treacherous. Warm days followed by sudden freezes cause:

• Soil expansion

• Crown heaving

• Water pooling over frozen ground

Removing mulch too early exposes plants to these dangers. Instead:

• Remove part of the mulch gradually

• Leave enough to shade the soil

• Wait until the ground has fully thawed

This slow, patient approach protects the garden during its most vulnerable weeks.

🌞 Summer Mulching: Shielding Roots From Heat and Thirst

If winter mulch protects against cold, summer mulch protects against heat and dryness.

Some perennials — especially shallow‑rooted ones — suffer when the sun bakes the soil surface.

Egan highlights two groups that especially need summer mulch:

• Hardy phlox

Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis)  

These plants love moisture but keep their roots close to the surface. Without mulch, they wilt, scorch, and struggle.

🌿 What Makes a Good Summer Mulch?

Egan recommends:

• Spent manure — fine‑textured, soil‑colored, and rich in humus

• Grass clippings — easy, abundant, and tidy

• Any open, breathable material that doesn’t offend the eye

Summer mulch:

• Reduces evaporation

• Keeps roots cool

• Improves soil texture

• Encourages deeper, healthier growth

🌱 Protecting Late‑Emerging Plants

Some perennials sleep late in spring — Platycodons (balloon flowers) are a classic example.

Egan warns that impatient gardeners often dig them up by mistake.

His solution is simple and brilliant:

• Place cane stakes beside each plant in fall

• Mark lilies and other slow risers the same way

This prevents accidental digging and keeps the garden layout intact.

🔄 Dividing and Resetting: Mulch’s Companion Task

Mulching and dividing go hand‑in‑hand.

Most perennials need dividing every two to three years — peonies and gas plant being notable exceptions.

Egan’s method is methodical and deeply practical:

1. Work in Sections

Choose a ten‑foot strip and complete it fully before moving on.

2. Lift Plants Carefully

Cut back foliage, lift the clump, and cover roots with burlap to prevent drying.

3. Rebuild the Soil

Dig deeply, add well‑rotted manure, and break every clod.

4. Replant Thoughtfully

Use only the healthy outer rim of each clump — the part with strong roots and next year’s buds.

5. Avoid Wet Soil

Never divide when the soil is very wet; it compacts and loses structure.

This slow, steady renewal keeps the garden vigorous and prevents overcrowding.

🌼 Mulching as a Philosophy of Care

Mulching isn’t just a task — it’s a way of tending the garden with patience and foresight.

It teaches us to:

• Protect what’s vulnerable

• Anticipate the seasons

• Work with the land, not against it

• Accept that plants, like people, need shelter and steadiness

Egan’s century‑old wisdom still rings true:

A well‑mulched garden is a resilient garden.  

It weathers storms, survives droughts, and returns each year with quiet confidence.