Welcome!
by Grace Whitfeld
For Concho • St. Johns • Apache County • 5,700 ft elevation
Once you’ve learned to read the land — to see where water naturally wants to move, pause, and soak — the next step is shaping the earth so that every drop of rain becomes a gift to your soil.
A swale is one of the simplest, most powerful tools for harvesting rainwater in the High Desert. It’s nothing more than a shallow, level trench on contour with a berm on the downhill side. But this humble shape can:
Slow runoff
Recharge groundwater
Reduce erosion
Support trees and shrubs
Bring life back to dry soil
You can build one with nothing more than a shovel, a level, and a little patience.
Here’s how to build a swale step‑by‑step, tailored specifically for our High Desert climate.
Use the clues from your land‑reading:
Look for natural water pathways
Find gentle slopes (5–15% is ideal)
Avoid areas where water pools too long
Stay clear of septic systems and foundations
Place swales above gardens, trees, or future planting areas
A swale should feel like it belongs there — not forced.
A swale must be perfectly level from end to end so water spreads evenly.
Use one of these simple tools:
Three sticks + string + a rock
Works beautifully in the field
Mark the ground every time the legs read level
Clear tubing filled with water
Perfect for longer swales
Good for short distances
Walk the contour slowly, marking it with:
Flags
Rocks
Flour
Spray paint
This line is the backbone of your swale.
Now the fun begins.
6–12 inches is perfect for the High Desert.
3–4 feet for larger ones
Flat bottom
Gently sloped sides
Level from end to end
Place all removed soil on the downhill side — this becomes your berm.
The berm is what holds water in place long enough for it to soak in.
Pile the excavated soil on the downhill side
Shape it into a long, smooth mound
Tamp it gently with your feet
Add rocks to stabilize if needed
Keep the top slightly rounded
A well‑built berm is sturdy but not rigid — it should feel like part of the land.
Before planting anything, test it.
Use:
A hose
A bucket
A monsoon rain if you’re lucky
Watch how the water behaves:
Does it spread evenly?
Does it pool too deeply?
Does it escape at the ends?
This step saves you hours later.
Plants stabilize the soil and help water infiltrate.
Choose drought‑tolerant shrubs and perennials:
Apache plume
Four‑wing saltbush
Rabbitbrush
Desert willow
Penstemon
Globemallow
Their roots anchor the berm and drink deeply.
Plant species that love occasional soaking:
Native grasses
Wildflowers
Herbs
Shade‑tolerant shrubs
Avoid planting right against the uphill wall — leave space for water to spread.
Mulch helps slow evaporation and protect soil.
Use:
Wood chips (thin layer)
Juniper needles
Gravel
River rock
Rock lining is especially helpful in windy areas or where erosion is strong.
This is where the real learning happens.
After a rain, walk your swale and look for:
Overflow points
Erosion on the berm
Areas where water didn’t spread evenly
Spots where sediment collected
Make small adjustments — swales evolve with the land.
Once your first swale is working beautifully, you can add:
A second swale downhill
A third swale uphill
Crescent catchments around trees
Rock rundowns in erosion channels
Micro‑basins for native shrubs
A network of small features is more effective than one large one.
Swales honor the natural intelligence of the land.
They:
Slow water
Spread water
Sink water
And in a place where every drop matters, that’s everything.
Over time, swales create:
Greener vegetation
Healthier soil
More wildlife
Less erosion
Cooler microclimates
They turn dry ground into living ground.