Hi @L1111. There is no exact duration that the Ring Alarm Outdoor Siren will last for. There are a few variables that contribute to battery life. I would suggest monitoring the Siren for 1 week and seeing how much battery drain you have to determine a ball park figure of how long it will last.

Hi @L1111. Under optimal conditions and average use, batteries can last up to 3 years. This will vary based on factors such as: temperature, signal, use, battery quality, power options used, placement options, etc.


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After repeating the question several times they promised to look into these (rather normal) questions and mail me the answers.

To me it seems pretty normal questions to ask en thus to now what the specs are from an extra cost battery-pack bought especially for turning the night-LED on to the outside-siren.

1) Number of batteries in parallel is set to 4. It should be 1 because all batteries in parallel count as one batterie. The wording "Number of batteries in parallel" is a bit misleading and AFAIK will change in one of the next firmware releases. Also verify that you have 4x 200Ah batteries. Only then 800Ah capacity would make sense. However, that's not the main case for your VE.Bus low voltage alarm.

2) In your MultiPlus charger settings you have checked VE.Bus BMS. This not correct, because your system does not have such BMS. Uncheck this and this hopefully will solve the VE.Bus low voltage alarm. If not, come back :-)

I changed the battery setting to reflect the reality of the installation - one big 800 Ah battery - and unchecked the other BMS box as you suggested - and all came alive with the inverter. I then threw the main AC breaker and energized the main AC panel. I gave the system a good 3-hour test by running the AC unit on the high cool setting (15.5C) and all worked as it should without any losses from the battery bank - the 1780 watt array was putting out over 800 watts so it easily offset the loads from the AC and DC sides off the RV.

There is also a VE.Bus low battery alarm when the BMS has opened the contactor (system in hibernate or standby) as the MultiPlus then does not see the battery. The alarm will then persist until acknowledged in the GX device, even if the contactor has closed again and the Lynx Smart BMS is in On mode.

It is not realistic to expect users to find your online only warnings against removing the battery. The product support team also told me NOT to use the reset button as well. I just bricked my unit by, gasp, trying to get it to turn off by removing the battery (after unplugging it and realizing it had a battery).

I have the same issue. Mine happens when the grid fails, and the inverters start inverting. It causes the inverters to turn off with low battery error then automatically startup 10 seconds later.... and everything carries on normally.

All wiring including thickness of wires on the DC side has been checked by certified Victron installers. As well as the cut off voltages, charging and discharging parameters. At the moment the installers have no answer for the low battery issue and have sent the Configs to Victron for review.

The interesting part is my installer, removed all battery coms - so the Inverter was working of the battery Voltage. What was being tested was if it was due to BMC Coms with Victron. Still get the exact same issue during the exact same period - grid loss. Have tried to look for patterns:

The fact there is no BMC (CAN or other) COMS with the battery, and this still occurs tells me its something at the Victron level. What we have managed to see is the following in the Advanced section of VRM:

During the low battery and the inverters turning off for 10sec and restarting - it is actually reporting the right V but for some reason it's the VE.Bus voltage that drops and then throws the Low Battery error. As mentioned above, the install has been checked various occasions from connections, to wiring to diameter of the wiring.

@DeejayT - to remove the COMs from the BMC of the battery out the equation we changed our COMS from BMC to the Inverters reading the V (so no coms with the battery). Still Low Battery error. What we see on the Victron logs (under advanced) - the battery V is actually reporting the correct V but its the VE.Bus V that drops and causes the Low battery error - Almost like something on the VE.Bus drops the voltage based on. What its or why it magically decides to do this - we have ruled out the physical parts (wire diameters, lengths and connections all been tripple checked). IN this case it only ever happens when there is a grid loss. It is also sperratic no pattern that causes this (i.e. Load, PV generation, temp, SOC).

Just want to highlight this again - I would fully support the idea if Victron reverted saying its a battery issue - fully. However - No COMS to the battery (as the system is running now) is not only the settings configured to No COMS but there is no physical COMS cable between the batteries and Victron.

4. In the Advanced logs on VRM - one can clearly see that during this melt down, the battery voltage is actually reporting a correct value that should not trigger the low battery, the issue is the VE.Bus for some unknown reason Voltage drops and triggers the low battery.

But 0 response, always blaming other elements of the install, battery, wiring etc etc (which they confirmed themselves was fine) just has me most disappointed in my choice of product. I came from the cheaper equipment because Victron was "the one". Irony is same batteries same load - never had this issue.

Same issue to my Multiplus II 48/3000, firmvare ver. 500, ESS, 3 phase setup, Cerbo GX. Running in island mode (not connected to Grid - because the installation is not yet certified by local grid provider). Once I turn the inverters on, the low-battery LED starts flashing on inverter for L1. But no alarm on L2 and L3 inverters. Either with SOC 100%.

Is it possible you have a bad connection, maybe at the battery? I believe the low battery condition is cleared by cycling the power, until the 24 hour test runs next. However, if there is a low battery condition, you will not be able to clear the system. Even though the battery is good, if the connection is bad, it will register as a low battery.

If the battery voltage falls below 11.2 VDC a Low Battery Trouble condition will occur. The communicator can be programmed to report Low Battery to the Central Station. The battery will continue to run the control until its voltage drops below 10.2 VDC, at which time the control will disconnect and shut down to prevent a false alarm and damage to the battery. The AC Fail trouble display will clear if the AC restores. However, the Low Battery Trouble requires a manual or automatic battery load test before it will clear. An automatic battery load test is performed every 24 hours.

I'm not sure I completely follow what you were doing with zone 193 to cause this issue, but if you are trying to monitor your system for a low battery, I think a simple automation rule should handle this task.

Wouldn't you be able to create a rule that checks for a low battery trouble and sets a phantom output to on. Then you can have the Elk system contact you, and/or monitor this phantom output on the ISY?

Your right message 17 confused me. I thought you were speaking about the M1 battery when I replied back to use analog zone definition. When you spoke about the PS212S in message 17, I incorrectly thought you were back on monitoring the PS212S.

I think you might need to compromise and settle for two monitoring methods. For the M1 battery, I think you will need to monitor Low Battery Trouble and AC Power failure and set a phantom output and if you would like to see actual battery voltage, use the analog zone method.

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The things in the list are very low highest one was 15%. And it was music. I have no notifications on, 2 background app refreshes and they aren't even on the list. I may have to let the battery drain completely and see if that makes a difference.

Some other process is stuck then, that is causing the device to drain. If the reset does not work, then I would suggest attempting a restore from backup first, and if necessary, as new. There is no way the alarm can drop that battery too much. How much are you loosing overnight. You never state that.

The problem: I have been using it with NUT over USB all the time and NUT even after the replacement still reports ALARM OL RB and "Replace battery!". From what I have gleaned, the UPS needs to be reset in a certain way. I have tried by issuing ups.test.start.quick and ups.test.start.deep command via NUT, but while it executed the test, it did not reset the alarm. 


No pressing of buttons had any effect. After a moment of god-no-did-I-brick-it-panic, I checked on my reference documents and followed the instructions in the BL-1-vs-BL2-document, tripped the breaker in front of the UPS, disconnected the battery cable,waited a bit, reconnected everything. and it came back to life (i.e. apparently was pulled out of bootloader mode). 

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