Lecture 1

Knots:

Knot-tying is an inherent part of roped climbing, and you and your partner’s safety depend on your ability to tie appropriate knots correctly, and to recognize correctly tied knots. The following knots are required for the Basic Rock & Glacier Climbing Course.

• Girth hitch
• Water knot (another example)
• Figure 8 loop (Figure 8 on a bight)
• Rewoven Figure 8 (Figure 8 Follow Through)
• Single Bowline (bowline)
• Double Fisherman’s knot (Double Fisherman’s bend; Grapevine knot)
• Prusik hitch (knot)
• Clove hitch (one-handed example! efficiency)
• Münter hitch
• Bowline on a coil
• Alpine Butterfly
• Bachmann knot
• Mule knots: device mule, Münter mule
• Flat Overhand Knot (aka EDK)
• Autoblock wrap (not tested until rappelling FT)

You will be tested on all the above knots at field trips. You will need to pass the knot test by the end of FT 3 prior to participating in FT 4. You will be expected to tie all of these knots under the close scrutiny of your instructor on all field trips. Your knots will be inspected for good dressing. You will also need to be able to tell how and why each of the knots is used.

Visit AnimatedKnots.com for picture walkthroughs of each of the knots. Additionally, you can click or tap on each of the knot names in the list to be taken to a YouTube video demonstrating how to tie and dress that knot.

Where Should I Buy Gear?

There are LOTS of resources to pick up gear at new, used, and reduced prices. Here are some good options:

• Backcountry: great selection of equipment, frequent sales, discount for Mountaineers members
• MooseJaw: frequent discounts, membership points program
• REI: no description needed! Your member dividend is going to be ridiculous the year after this course ends. Generous return policy.
• Goodwill: often has a surprising variety of woolen goods on the cheap. A long-sleeve wool shirt is a long-sleeve wool shirt, regardless of whether it's made by an outdoor company or not.
• Local consignment shops: Playback Sports in Tacoma can yield some gems!
• AscentOutdoors (formerly Second Ascent): great Seattle shop with new and used climbing and outdoors goods
• Feathered Friends: another strong Seattle Shop. Focus is on high quality down apparel, but they have some excellent accessory cord/perlon (Edelweiss brand) that is hard to find elsewhere, and other good climbing selections.
• Mountaineers Gear Swaps: check local branches for dates! Tacoma gear swap is coming up this Spring!

How to Pack a Backpack

REI have a good series of videos on outdoor topics. The video linked here (1:37 long) is general advice about how to distribute weight in your pack, and where to put what. For climbing-specific packing, you can ask instructors, mentors, and other experienced mountaineers-- and you'll have plenty of opportunity to dial in your own systems!