Lecture 1

Material Covered:

The first lecture includes an introduction to the course, important equipment considerations, and a discussion about conditioning and training goals. Please scroll to the bottom of the page to access the L1 quiz (available by Friday, 2/8), and take the quiz as soon as you can within one week after it is posted.

Handouts, Resources, and Other Materials:

Training Goals Worksheet

Course Introduction Slides

2019 Natalia course intro slides.pptx

L1 Training and Conditioning GOALS WORKSHEET.pdf

Knots:

Knot-tying is an inherent part of roped climbing, and you and your partner’s safety depend on your ability to tie appropriate knots correctly, and to recognize correctly tied knots. The following knots are required for the Basic Rock & Glacier Climbing Course.

Girth hitch
Water knot (another example)
Figure 8 loop (Figure 8 on a bight)
Rewoven Figure 8 (Figure 8 Follow Through)
Single Bowline (bowline)
Double Fisherman’s knot (Double Fisherman’s bend; Grapevine knot)
Prusik hitch (knot)
Clove hitch (one-handed example! efficiency)
Münter hitch
Bowline on a coil
Alpine Butterfly
Bachmann knot
Mule knots: device mule, Münter mule
Flat Overhand Knot (aka EDK)
Autoblock wrap (not tested until rappelling FT)

You will be tested on all the above knots at field trips. You will need to pass the knot test by the end of FT 3 prior to participating in FT 4. You will be expected to tie all of these knots under the close scrutiny of your instructor on all field trips. Your knots will be inspected for good dressing. You will also need to be able to tell how and why each of the knots is used.

Visit AnimatedKnots.com for picture walkthroughs of each of the knots. Additionally, you can click or tap on each of the knot names in the list to be taken to a YouTube video demonstrating how to tie and dress that knot.

Gear:

Slides from Scott's gear and clothing lecture are below.

The matrix following this list identifies equipment that will be needed at each field trip. THESE ARE GUIDELINES ONLY! ADDITIONAL MODIFICATIONS TO THIS LIST MAY BE MADE IN CLASS. If renting, be sure to reserve items ahead of time.

FOR FIELD TRIP 1 PREP: Have your webbing and perlon (accessory cord) cut at the store when you buy it. It is a good idea to use different colored webbing for different sized slings (different length slings, personal anchor, chest harness). The different colors allow you to easily recognize the length and what the sling is used for. See the FTP 1 tab for more information.

Gear and Clothing L1 2018.pptx

Where Should I Buy Gear?

There are LOTS of resources to pick up gear at new, used, and reduced prices. Here are some good options:

Backcountry: great selection of equipment, frequent sales, discount for Mountaineers members
MooseJaw: frequent discounts, membership points program
REI: no description needed! Your member dividend is going to be ridiculous the year after this course ends. Generous return policy.
Goodwill: often has a surprising variety of woolen goods on the cheap. A long-sleeve wool shirt is a long-sleeve wool shirt, regardless of whether it's made by an outdoor company or not.
Local consignment shops: Playback Sports in Tacoma can yield some gems!
AscentOutdoors (formerly Second Ascent): great Seattle shop with new and used climbing and outdoors goods
Feathered Friends: another strong Seattle Shop. Focus is on high quality down apparel, but they have some excellent accessory cord/perlon (Edelweiss brand) that is hard to find elsewhere, and other good climbing selections.
Mountaineers Gear Swaps: check local branches for dates! Tacoma gear swap is coming up this Spring!

Cheap, or Lightweight?

The chart below is adapted from a gear essay by Bruce Sanchez. Please note that these are not to be construed as suggestions on what gear to buy; the chart is simply intended to illustrate the difference that many small decisions can make. Ounces make pounds!

Overnight rock climb sample loadouts:

How to Pack a Backpack

REI have a good series of videos on outdoor topics. The video linked here (1:37 long) is general advice about how to distribute weight in your pack, and where to put what. For climbing-specific packing, you can ask instructors, mentors, and other experienced mountaineers-- and you'll have plenty of opportunity to dial in your own systems!

Conditioning:

Below is the slideshow that Allison shared with us during L1. She also talked a little about TrainingPeaks, a resource which helps you track your training goals and log workouts. She also recommended the training plans available at Uphill Athlete, which provide (for a fee) training templates for specific goals.

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