FT 2
Belaying:
The Mountaineers teaches the PBUS belay technique. Please see this American Alpine Institute web site for a description of that technique, and the video to the right for a demonstration.
The link here also includes some discussion about why the "slip, slap, slide" technique (or pinch-and-slide) which was taught until recently is not as good an option. You will still see people doing it in the gym-- can you identify the potential weak points in that old belay technique, compared with PBUS?
PBUS Demonstration
Tying a device mule (mule knot on a belay device):
Tying a Munter mule. Can you identify the ADDITIONAL step that we add and which is not shown in this video? Hint: it makes the backup extra secure.
The Mule Knot:
The mule knot is used by the belayer to go hands free in situations that warrant it (beginning a rescue, eating a snack while the climber rests for a while on the rope, etc.). The brake strand of the rope is locked off by the knot, and is unable to move. This is perhaps the only situation in which you should ever remove your hand from the brake strand while the climber is on belay!
There are two major mule knots: the device mule is a mule knot tied when belaying with a belay device. The Munter mule is a mule knot tied, predictably, when belaying with a Munter hitch. You will need to know how to tie both of these to complete the leader tie-off sequence.
2019 Leader Tie-Off Pics.pptxLeader Tie-Off Slides
2019 Leader Tie-Off.mp4Leader Tie-Off Video walkthrough (hard to see individual knots, but gives an overview of the process)