Even though it means travelling on my own so I don’t get to share my adventures and make memories with my family and friends, I am quite enjoying this period because I’m seeing all sorts of places uncluttered by tourists and other people. I get to have good conversations with tour operators and guides and learn so much more about each place.
This week I’m on an island, off the coast of the mainland, one of 52 islands in this remarkable chain that began forming 430 million years ago as the mainland began breaking away from the super-continent of Gondwana and sediment from eroding mountains was gradually deposited on the sea floor as it slid off the continental shelf forming a land bridge between the mainland and Tasmania.
Even though there have been Aboriginal peoples living here for about 35 000 years, cut off from their northern neighbours as the land bridge was gradually overtaken by the sea, it wasn’t until 1773 that the islands became known to and named by European explorers. Originally known as Great Island, this island was renamed by Governor King in the early 1800s as he sought to commemorate the work of an explorer whose name is synonymous with this region.
By this time the island was a thriving sealers’ settlement, Australia’s first export industry, but that was short-lived as the seals became over-exploited and there were too few left. Meanwhile, on the nearby island of Tasmania there was significant conflict between the new settlers and the Aboriginal people as the settlers sought to take more and more of the traditional lands for themselves and so in 1830, Governor Arthur, with the help of George Augustus Robinson, attempted to ensure the survival of the aboriginal people by exiling them to this island. Sadly, this settlement was not successful and of the 200 or so aboriginal persons who were moved, over 150 died due to exposure to diseases like influenza and pneumonia. In 1847, those remaining were transported back to Tasmania to Oyster Cove where, over time, they all died.
The stories of these people and that of Robinson form a solid part of the heritage of the island and there are reminders of it to be found this day, including a restored chapel which is on my list of things to visit.
But firstly, I am hiring a car and driving north to a place that has always fascinated me ever since I read The Lost Diamonds of Killiecrankie by Gary Crew and Peter Gouldthorpe. Perhaps I will find some “diamonds” of my own.
Even if I don’t find physical stones, there are so many beautiful spots on this wild, rugged island exposed to all the elements that the Roaring Forties throws at it as it straddle the 40˚ South parallel.
Where am I? Flinders Island