swimming pool pump blew winding (Chlorinator spare parts )
A force flood or miniature cuts in motor force can also happen during a storm or in summer with flames. In this case, it is earnest to stop the pump, since the start-up measure is easy to damage with these mains power cuts.
On the off chance that the starter winding wears out, the whole motor would have to be rewound, as it is beyond the realm of imagination to expect to wind only one loop when they are together.
Engine overheated
At the point when a motor is overloaded, (for example, an abrupt increase in ampere reading or an unexpected increase in mains current, Overspeed because of knocking, poor bearing and shortcircuits, and so forth.), it is bound to the engine wears out. Damaged bearings can cause the stator to rotate, forcing the motor and triggering utilization, which overheats the windings and subsequently consumes the curls.
A capacitor that doesn't have the necessary miniature farad capacity makes the starting time longer by forcing the starter loop. In the event that the capacitor drops too low, the pump starts to murmur, however doesn't turn.
At the principal symptoms of trouble in starting, the technician ought to be contacted to check the capacitor and replace it.
Engine burned out because of carelessness
Indeed, this happens often. A 230 volt pool pump, yet accidentally misconnected to the association terminals. This is one of the basic mistakes bunch proprietors or different clients make when installing a force flexibly or testing the pump.
We suggest that a Schuko outlet be installed on the wall and that the pump be associated as it originates from the manufacturer, taking advantage of the provided cable.
A typical cause of motors overheating and burning is the point at which the proprietor eliminates the defensive spread from the fan. The fan cap serves two capacities:
Shield from propeller rotation from damage.
Channel the air that enters the propeller and direct it towards the engine. (Pool pump )
Non-lubricated bearings
The bearings also need lubrication so as not to accumulate rust, especially when the pool and pump are rarely utilized. In the new models of pool pumps that are currently on the market, the bearings are lubricated.
At the point when the mechanical seal loses its snugness, a moderate cycle of water seepage begins to the bearing that is nearest to the wet part of the pump. After some time, this bearing winds up rusting and nailing the pump.
IN principle, the bearings are lubricated and are prepared to work for about 4 years without issues. In any event, when not utilized for extensive stretches of time, winter. In any case, they have also restricted the timeframe and require a minimum of maintenance. Better check the Owner's Manual for instructions.
Bad mechanical seal
Pool pump mechanical seal in poor condition
All pumps are furnished with a mechanical seal that isolates the wet part of the pump body from the electrical part of the motor. This seal, which is located behind the impeller, wears out after some time.
Also, the operation of the pump without water damages the mechanical seal, starting a cycle of water leakage that will oxidize the motor bearing, in addition to losing water.
Lost water in a pump is capable of emptying a pool if the pump is lower than the pool. It isn't the first occasion when that by fixing a small water leak in the pump, we have tackled this issue of draining water with the ensuing saving of water.(συναγερμοι σπιτιων)