THE DESIGN: 1920s Waves Styling

DESIGN AND CHARACTER STATEMENT:

I designed this short marcel wave wig based on the concept of a 1920s drag queen. She uses she/her pronouns when performing and while in drag, but he/him out of drag. She's in her late 20s or early 30s and spends most of her time in the cabaret and burlesque scene. She's quite poor, but she puts forward a veneer of a lavish lifestyle onstage. She smokes so many cigarettes and probably dies before 40. I chose a darker wig to contrast Annecy's lighter features and create the dramatic difference in value that was so emblematic of the time. I used a very short haircut to lean into the androgyny of women's fashion during the 1920s. A boxy shape and short, gelled hair created a very masculine silhouette for women. I was interested in how drag queens and transvestites performed femininity in a time where the feminine leaned androgynous/masculine. I also went for a softer, more dramatic wave over the crisp peaks made with wig clips, because I liked the idea of giving her a softer look instead of harsh angles.

RESEARCH

I enjoy this picture of a 1920s wave because it shows the side view and what the hair could look like at the base of the neck if it's too short to curl.

This picture shows a side part style where some of the waves sweep across the forehead, which I want to replicate for my style.

This image shows a much shorter, pixie-like marcel wave. I like the more rounded shape of it.

I enjoy this image of a 1920s drag queen because it shows a very short wave style and how that could still read as feminine with the right styling.

This is an image of a 1920s drag queen who was known as Barbette. I like this picture because it shows the wigs they wore at the time and how drag queens would style themselves.

SUPPLIES, MATERIALS, AND TOOLS

Short Brown synthetic wig
Bobby pins
Hair pins
Extra small rollers
end papers
Wig block
Galloon
T-pins
bank head pins
rat tail comb
soft bristle brush
steamer
hairspray

THE PROCESS

Block a wig onto a wig block using galloon around the hairline.
Steam any existing texture or curl out of the wig.
Put in extra small rollers by wrapping an end paper around the end of the hair, then wrapping that around a roller. Pin the rollers standing on end so the curl is tighter. Alternate directions of the curl by row to create an effective s shape.
Continue as far down as possible, then pin curl the hair at the base of the head.
Steam curlers for around 15-20 seconds per roller.
After letting the wig cool down and dry, remove the rollers.
Brush through the curls with a soft bristle brush until they start to naturally lock into waves.
Lay down a u-shape of galloon around the part of the hair, pinning it every inch or so with bank head pins.
Using the brush and a rat-tail comb, form the first wave into the shape you want. Pin the galloon into the "valley" of the wave (as opposed to the "peak") in the same u-shape around the head.
Continue to zigzag back and forth across the head, brushing the waves in place carefully so as not to flatten previous waves.
When you reach the pin-curled portion that's not necessarily directional, brush it out so it has the same wave texture as the rest of the hair. It doesn't need to be a defined wave here.
Finding where the ear is marked on the wig block, use the existing wave shape to bring a curl forward at the cheeks.
Steam all the waves in place with the steamer.
Once steam has cooled, go over the wig with hairspray.
Remove galloon and do any finishing touches like smoothing flyaways and shaping.
Apply wig to properly prepped hair.

Curler set complete

Curls steamed and rollers removed

Galloon applied to waves

Pin curls at base of wig brushed out

Finished Look

REFLECTION AND CRITIQUE

I really enjoyed learning how to do marcel waves. The wig I chose was short, so I also got to try using pin curls as well as curlers. I struggled with making sure I had all the curlers going the correct direction, but ultimately I was able to make it work. My favorite part of the process was pinning the waves in place and seeing it all come together. I also enjoyed the way the waves framed the face, though I would have messed around with the shape of the curls at the ears a bit more. I struggled with the frizz on the waves; I wish I was able to make them smooth and shiny without using wave clips, since I didn't want super stiff peaks. Next time I do a marcel wave wig, I want to test out various products to see if they'll work on a synthetic wig to hold the curls without creating flyaways.

SCHEMATIC

PHOTO OF FINISHED PROJECT

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