UPDATE 21 march 2021:  The project contents have been updated to a better and more ergonomic version than shown in the photos, but the construction process is identical

HOW TO INTERPRET THE MEASUREMENTS?

With the letter M, a triangular metric thread ISO is meant, a standard for many applications. In this project, screws and nuts with this type of threading have been used. To facilitate the understanding of the measurements, I have indicated the SCREWS with M and the NUTS without M.

SCREWS:

Screws are indicated with the letter M followed by a number. For example, with M2.5x3, it refers to screws, where 2.5 indicates the diameter in millimeters including the threading, and 3 indicates the length in millimeters. For screws with a round head, the indicated length excludes the head, while for screws with a countersunk head, the length also includes the head, as it penetrates into the hole. The choice between a round head or a countersunk head depends on the description and photos in the guide.

INJECTION NUTS:

Injection nuts are indicated without the letter M. For example, with 4.2x5 without M, it refers to nuts, where 4.2 indicates the outer diameter in millimeters (OD) and 5 indicates the length in millimeters (L). The internal measurements (ID) of the nuts depend on the external measurements:

• For M2.5 screws, use nuts with OD=3.5 L=4/5 (measurements are indicated in the PDF).

• For M3 screws, use nuts with OD=4.2 L=3//5 (measurements are indicated in the PDF).

SQUARE NUTS:

Square nuts are indicated with the abbreviation "SQR NUT" followed by the measurements. For example, SQR NUT 5.5x2, where 5.5 is the measurement in millimeters of each side of the square and 2 is the thickness in millimeters. The internal measurement (ID) of the square nut is M3, meaning it can accommodate a screw with a nominal diameter of 3 millimeters.

All the described measurements are available in the attached documents. Screws and nuts are indicated together, and where the nut is not indicated, it means that the screw should be screwed directly into the plastic.

Secure the rings of the feet to the base using glue; I recommend using PVA glue.

Insert the adhesive silicone feet into their respective slots.

Secure the two parts composing the thumb base with countersunk head screws. Then, attach all finger bases to the main base using round head screws.

Insert the microswitches while respecting the orientation shown in the photos to ensure proper contact with the finger levers.

For the electrical connections, use a black wire for the ground (GND) and solder the wire connecting all the common (C) pins. Leave about 20 cm of wire outward for connections to the GND board.

Use four separate wires with different colors for the normally open (NO) pins. Leave about 20 cm of wire outward for connections to the microcontroller. Make sure to use the same wire color for all fingers to avoid confusion with connections.

Use colored wires as desired for the Joystick, the Multidirectional Switch, and the Button.

Next, test the switch outputs (up, down, right, left, and button) with a multimeter and note the correspondence with the wire colors. If available, consult the datasheets for further details.

Remember that the center pin of the toggle switch corresponds to GND.

Glue the toggle switch to the base of the orange box using hot glue or another type of glue. Absolutely avoid using cyanoacrylate glue, as this type of glue can damage the electrical circuits.

Insert the terminal blocks onto the Teensy 2.0++ and solder the pins following the orientation shown in the photos. Keep the board against a flat surface during soldering to ensure that the terminal blocks are well aligned.

For the GND terminal block, you can use a stripboard or a copper board to be cut and drilled as indicated in the photos. Make sure to take measurements from the "main-base.pdf" document provided in the archive. Then, solder all the pins together. This terminal block will be used to connect all the negative wires from the various switches.

Insert the wires into the PET protective braid, previously finished at the ends with a soldering iron or a lighter.

Close the towers with the screws indicated in the image, making sure to also insert the PET protective braid inside. For the index tower, assemble the additional button first and then proceed with closing the tower as described above.

Apply about 15 mm of heat shrink tubing to the end of the protective braid towards the Teensy board.

Uniform the holes of the levers using a 1.5 mm diameter drill bit and file the side parts near the holes.

Ensure that the levers can move freely in their housing without friction. Perform tests to understand how much filing is needed, as this depends on the quality of the 3D print.

Assemble all levers into their respective housings and use the screws indicated in the image caption, or refer to the "NutScrewSizes.pdf" document in the archive.

Carefully file the housing for the multidirectional switch so that it is not overly tight. If you need to remove the switch later, it may be difficult to pull it out.

Next, insert the multidirectional switch and the analog joystick into their respective housings as shown in the photos.

Organize the wires and insert the PET protective braid.

Close with the cap using the indicated screws.

Finally, insert the snap-in lever for the multidirectional switch.

Attach the bases to the main base by inserting the screws through the slots.

Next, attach the joystick and the thumb mini-tower in the same manner.

Group the cables and cut them near the end of the base, following what is shown in the photos.

Next, prepare the ends of the wires by stripping about 4 mm of wire and applying a bit of solder to make the connection more secure in the terminal block.

Insert the bistable switch and secure it with some hot glue, being careful not to use too much to avoid melting the PLA.

Finally, connect the GND board with the M1.4X5 screws.

Prepare a two-component adhesive base (epoxy glue or millechiodi are excellent for PLA).

Glue the feet by inserting them into the cross-shaped housings and secure the parts with a clamp until the glue dries.

Next, insert the injection nuts and proceed to assemble them on the base using the screws indicated in the caption.

Please note:

The keypad works correctly with all firmware and software versions available for free download from the internet at the time of writing this guide, including Software versions v0.22.0 and Firmware v57. With future firmware updates, there should be no issues; however, it's always possible to downgrade to previous versions.

Additionally, it has also been successfully tested with the reWASD software (which will not be covered in this guide).