A long time ago - another lifetime almost, as a broke uni student sewing my own clothes for uni balls, skirts for outings and gifts. There was a boy and he liked my sewing gifts. Really the level of my skill was boxer shorts but he asked for a collared shirt and I said yes. Somehow it was completed and well above my skill level at the time but ignorance is bliss and all. It was marvellous how well it turned out. Long story short - don't have the boy anymore and haven't made a shirt since and when the amazing Lauren at Elbe Textiles called for testers for her new Cornell shirt pattern - I asked if she would pick me...

She did - yay!

So the files arrive - I prefer to print A0 and trace off using trace & toile interfacing (about $2 per/mt and it's a great tool) and I peak at the instructions - all 29 pages and start to hyperventilate.

Part of my goals this year has been to learn new things, sew fabrics I avoid and do more button holes and new techniques - generally step out of the comfort zone. Other goals include not buying more fabric and patterns but pfft.... who am I kidding!

So I buck up give myself a slap, trace off size G and get started on my toile. Lauren had explained the Cornell has a relaxed, comfortable fit which could be styled with lots of ease. This is my second rodeo pattern testing for Elbe Textiles - so I should have known not to panic (I was lucky enough to test the Maynard dress pattern. The Maynard is a masterpiece in engineering and everyone should try it! )

The process of making a toile is relatively new to me. A lot of my sewing has been just get it done and on but these days I'm more enlightened and when not costuming, I can take my time to practice.

So the lessons of the toile:

- I had allowed too much ease - the shoulders weren't right

- Fabric choice was important - I needed more drape. The light ticking-type quilting cotton was not quite working for me

- I needed to move the pockets closer to centre front to avoid directing my bust.

The instructions are a dream. Lauren's calm and precise directions hold your hand every step of the way. The mind bending French seams are a breeze with the clear and concise instructions.

I really like the collar and am very happy with the final product. This style is a great entry point into shirt making and if you are looking to extend your shirtmaking skills, I really recommend the Cornell.