Obelisk of Theodosius in Sultanahmet Square today
At the center of Byzantine public life stood the Hippodrome of Constantinople, an enormous stadium that served as both an entertainment venue and a political battleground. Originally built by the Roman Emperor Septimius Severus in the 3rd century and later expanded by Emperor Constantine the Great, the Hippodrome could seat an estimated 30,000 to 50,000 spectators. More than just a racetrack for thrilling chariot races, it was a space where the people of Constantinople gathered to celebrate victories, voice grievances, and even challenge imperial authority.
Chariot racing was the lifeblood of the Hippodrome. The competing factions, known as the Blues and the Greens, were more than just sports teams—they represented powerful social and political alliances. As Anna Komnene describes in The Alexiad, these factions could influence imperial policies and sometimes erupt into violent riots. The most infamous of these was the Nika Riots of 532, during which an outraged populace, angered by high taxes and government corruption, nearly overthrew Emperor Justinian I. According to Procopius in The Secret History, Justinian was prepared to flee the city, but his wife, Empress Theodora, refused to abandon the throne, famously declaring that “royalty is a fine burial shroud.” The emperor ultimately crushed the rebellion with brutal force, killing thousands in the Hippodrome and securing his rule.
Beyond its political significance, the Hippodrome was a showcase of imperial grandeur. As Constantine VII details in De Ceremonies, emperors frequently held elaborate processions here, reinforcing their divine right to rule. The arena was adorned with statues and monuments brought from across the empire, including the Serpent Column from Delphi and the Obelisk of Theodosius, an ancient Egyptian monument that still stands today. These symbols of power and conquest reminded the people of Byzantium’s vast reach and the emperor’s supreme authority.
The Hippodrome also played a role in Constantinople’s cultural and social life. As Judith Herrin notes in Byzantium: The Surprising Life of a Medieval Empire, it was one of the few places where all social classes—nobles, merchants, and commoners—could mix. Public celebrations, from imperial coronations to religious festivals, often took place in or near the Hippodrome, further cementing its importance in the daily lives of the city’s residents.
However, like much of Byzantine Constantinople, the Hippodrome suffered during times of conflict. The Fourth Crusade in 1204 saw the city ravaged by Latin crusaders, who plundered many of its treasures. By the time the Ottomans conquered Constantinople in 1453, the Hippodrome had fallen into decline. Though the grand stadium eventually disappeared, its influence endured—its former site is now the Sultanahmet Square in modern Istanbul, where remnants of its monuments still stand as a testament to its glorious past.
The Hippodrome was more than an arena; it was a mirror of Byzantine society. It reflected the passions of the people, the ambitions of emperors, and the ever-shifting dynamics of power in Constantinople. Whether through the cheers of chariot races or the echoes of rebellion, the Hippodrome remains one of the most captivating symbols of the city’s vibrant history.