In the middle of the heart of the Salerno capital they suddenly pop up the arches of the devil's bridge, the medieval aqueduct of Salerno. It is a real surprise it seems sprout from a wall and breaks the regularity of the roads and of the buildings of the 70s between Via Cassese and Via Arce (which is called so precisely for the strings, not surprisingly).
It is an antique aqueduct built around the 9th century, when Salerno was capital of a Principality which extended from Basilicata to the gates of Naples.
The dating of the aqueduct, still surviving for some stretches, which supplied the eastern part of the city is very controversial. Of these works remain a trunk straddling via Vernieri and two branches that cross via Arce and via Fieravecchia. The aqueduct of via Vernieri must have already existed in the 10th century, as the document from Cavense that the scholar De Angelis would seem to attest to as proof of his dating proposal. Studies conducted on the basis of a careful architectural analysis of the surviving trunks in via Arce date this stretch to the full Norman age.
The aqueduct attested in 994 on this route, "per Canalem qui positus est a super verolasi super carvonarium qui est bia antiqua", was evidently functional to the water supply of the monastic complexes and of the large areas to be irrigated of the verzieri and yard eastern area. Here the interventions of the Norman age are configured, both for the structure on high arches, and for the size and articulation of the ducts, clearly responding to the increased needs of a dense residential fabric, but also intended to serve those artisan and commercial nuclei whose presence had progressively intensified starting from the end of the 10th century.
The people, however, have always been terrified of this construction and the superstitions locals claim that it hurts to stay after sunset under its arches. The reason? It was built by the devil. And it remained in business for more than 1000 years.
First let's tell the serious story of these arches which, in fact, once were much longer than what we see today. If we could go back in time "only" of 100 years, in fact, we would find the 650 meters of aqueduct are intact, moreover still fully functional (the last testimony on the operation is dated 1950: practically 1100 years after construction!).
It was built for serve the monastery of San Benedetto, which was located in correspondence with the eastern walls of the city. Today the monastery still exists and is used as a barracks.
Other than a religious structure! The aqueduct is cursed by the devil himself and from Pietro Barilario, one of the strangest and most fascinating characters in Salerno history.
The people saw him as a kind of sorcerer who lived in the city around the 11th century, actually he was an alchemist and scholar of oriental magic and esoteric texts, given the very strong Saracen influence on the Salerno coast during the Middle Ages. The people, intrigued and worried by their own unconventional ways of doing things passed down all sorts of legend on his behalf, treating him as a kind of "Munaciello". The most famous of his "misdeeds"Is precisely what concerns the construction of this aqueduct, which it happened in one night.
In fact, Barilario asked devils for help. Probably this suggestion came from unusual shape of the aqueduct which, with his pointed arches, anticipated the fashion of Gothic style typical of the Middle Ages. Before then, in fact, the aqueducts par excellence they were the classics Roman "red bridges".
The Devil, accomplice and enemy at the same time, he then decided to play a joke on hers mate: while the magician was around Salerno doing his usual rituals, the devil he invited Barilario's grandchildren to play in his laboratory left unattended. On the way back the wizard found the kids dead, after having ingested who knows what poisonous substance.
Thus it was that man, desperate and grief-stricken decided to convert e ask God for mercy: in church of San Benedetto (where the aqueduct arrived) he prayed for three days until, it is said, the Wooden Jesus on the crucifix he opened his eyes and said "pardon“. The magician became a monk and died in the grace of God.
This miracle was a well-known story in Campania until the 16th century.
An equivalent of the legend of the Devil's bridge there is also in Naples with the Palazzo Penne, nicknamed, not surprisingly, "the palace of the Devil".
This medieval aqueduct was located in one completely uninhabited area at the time of its construction. Yet many stories have passed under this Devil's bridge. According to another legend, on a night of storm, would have gathered under these arches the four mythical founders from the Salerno Medical School. Abdela was of Arab-African origin, Garioponto was Greek, Isaac jew and Alfano was from Salerno. These men they really existed (the books of Garioponto are also cited by other authors), but they were not the true founders of the most important medical school in Europe at that time. Most likely this legend is an allegory to indicate the cultural ferment in the principality of Salerno which in the early Middle Ages was one of the more lively and active regions of Italy, meeting point for all the cultures of the Mediterranean.
12 centuries have passed and under the Devil's bridge shepherds, armies, wagons and today cars and mopeds have passed, whizzing among the buildings built where before there was a green hill overlooking the sea.
But the devil's bridge, or the medieval aqueduct of Salerno for those who do not want to be fascinated, have remained there for 1200 years, a collect new stories under the arches.
F/G - From Acquedotto Medioevale to Chiesa del SS. Crocifisso
- 10 min
Setto delle antiche fortificazioni - Of particular interest is a partition of the ancient fortifications located in the area north of the former convent of San Benedetto. It is a historical element still today, fortunately, not demolished, despite the construction of numerous buildings which took place between the 1950s and 1960s. can also be seen in a representation of Malpica from 1862: in the area still completely characterized by gardens and collection tanks for irrigation, one can observe the medieval aqueduct to the east (at the entrance to the Orto Magno plateau) from which, then, starts a branch to the west and south. It is most likely an overlap of the ancient city walls with the same aqueduct. The same ancient septum is highlighted in an Eidipsometry carried out by the Neapolitan engineers Donzelli - Cavaccini in 1914: also in this case the area is still used as vegetable gardens and the septum is called "Bastion", perhaps improperly. Amarotta, in its plan, describes it as a "Wall upstream of the military district (former abbey of San Benedetto), in the Mutilati district. It has been dated by De Angelis to the last decade of the 9th century and by Castelluccio to the eighties of the 8th century (Arechi II). About eleven meters high and often a meter or so, the artifact was traced in a north-easterly direction, from via S. Alferio to a fort that still exists ... In plan, the length is about one hundred and fifty-six meters; today there are no more than fifty left ”. In photographing the septum, the historian Massimo La Rocca, a few years ago, highlighted a further turret with a single lancet window that protrudes in the easternmost part of the wall portion. In an interesting comparative analysis between two photos, that of the historian de Angelis dating back to 1935 and the current situation, the historian also highlights how on this photo there are still the patrol wall, the square tower with the single lancet window on the right, the turret with an Arab-style dome and a gunboat from the Spanish period. The observation of the state of conservation of this ancient and important defensive structure unfortunately shows a decay and an embarrassing abandonment. The structure in the city center was swallowed up by the overbuilding of the last century, although, fortunately, not yet demolished.