Molokia, mulukhiyah, Egyptian spinach, Jew’s mallow, ewedu, mrenda, bush okra . . . These are just a sample of the list of names attributed to the plant Corchorus olitorius, an edible, leafy green plant that has thrived in tropical regions since antiquity. The name of “Egyptian spinach” owes to its popularity as an unofficial national dish of the Middle Eastern country, and “Jew’s mallow” because of its history as a staple dish for the ancient Jewish people. Different spellings of “molokhia” arise from the Arabic word for both the plant and the braised leaf stew eaten in the Middle East, while “ewedu” and “mrenda” are its Nigerian and Kenyan names respectively. Its profusion of names owes to its ubiquitous origins. Every region and linguistic tradition that has encountered the plant has its own culinary traditions and label. Yet, despite its popularity in the Middle East, Northern Africa, and parts of the Caribbean (a result of the slave trade), very little people in the United States have ever heard of the plant.
This is changing in Maine, as Somali immigrants cultivate molokhia. The Somali Bantu are an ethnic minority group indigenous to Southern Somalia who have ancient cultural histories rooted in agriculture. Many Somali Bantus have been forced to leave their homes to escape war and famine as a result of the Somali Civil War. Existing as a minority group and subject to oppression by both historical Somali ruling classes and European slave traders, this group was particularly vulnerable to the violent advances of militiamen during the Civil War. Many were forced to reside in Kenyan refugee camps, some ultimately immigrating to other countries. This is the reason behind the growing population of Somali Bantu immigrants in Maine who are working to build community and reclaim their traditions of agriculture in order to make a livelihood and attempt to put down roots in a new home. Artist Lauren Olson has chosen to include a depiction of molokhia to symbolize the changing demographics of Maine. When Maine’s first state seal was adopted in 1820, the northeast—and America—looked much different than it does today. Olson’s choice to include molokhia is a celebration of the diversity which is today shaping Maine’s rich agricultural traditions.
The leaves of molokhia are typically served in a braised broth. Chicken, lamb, or the preferred meat of a region are often served simmered in the sauce. It can be eaten plain as a stew, on top of rice similar to a curry, or in the Middle Eastern tradition, with pita tips. The plant has the viscous qualities of okra, which both give it the name “bush okra,” and its distinctive slimy texture. It’s nutrition profile rivals that of spinach and kale, with many purported health benefits. The plant, a relative of spinach, has been able to thrive in Maine's usually cool and humid climate, as the blazing sun of southern-more states would wither the leaves. For more information on the history of Somali Bantu immigrants in America, immigrant agriculture, and molokhia, please see these articles and organizations:
https://modernfarmer.com/2013/11/subsistence-sustenance-somali-refugees-farming-maine/
https://www.cultivatingcommunity.org/